Ford A/C :: 2000 - Coolant Blowing Out Of Cap Randomly
Oct 30, 2012
Ongoing problem on my 2000 Expedition (5.4l, auto, EB, 4wd).
Every now and then it spews a good volume of coolant out the pressure relief cap of the coolant tank. On a long drive on the highway, stopped at a stop sign in town, backing the trailer into the driveway in cool weather - any random moment it can happen. It'll do it every day for a week, then be fine for three months, then out of nowhere again.
I've "burped" it many times; it's had multiple chemical flushes; manually cleaned out the reservoir to be sure there's no gunk in there..... I'm down to imagining some foreign object in the system that randomly gets stuck and blocks the rad inlet leaving only the reservoir cap for the pump to pump fluid out of.
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I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
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I'm having issues with my a/c blowing randomly warm air. At idle (stop lights, heavy traffic) the cold air will kick off but the fan will remain constant. Once I'm back up to full speed, the cold air will come back. It also works if I turn the a/c and fan off for a few minutes and turn it back when I'm at highway speed. I've recharged it and when it blows cold it will freeze me out. I'm thinking its a possible compressor issue?
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What is happening is that air will stop blowing through the vents randomly. We will be trucking a long with either a/c or heater on and all of the suddon it will stop blowing. I know the blower is on because I can toggle between vent and defrost. It will blow out of the defrost but will not through the vents. It can be anywhere from 1 to 10 minutes and all the sudden it will start blowing through the vents once again. It just doesn't blow through the vents. This is a 1992 E-350 with a 460 in it.
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2003 f150 supercrew with 166,000 on it. Daily driver. Keeps randomly blowing 10A fuse under dash that controls ABS4X4 urn signals. No routine causes. Just blows at random times. Fuses were blowing instantly upon replacing then stopped. Doesn't blow when turning switches for turn signals or when turning it to 4x4. Just does it randomly. Sometimes will go months without blowing. Tore dash apart and can't find any wiring issues there. Could be somewhere else? Is ABS4X4. Turn signals going bad?
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I have a 2001 f250 superduty 7.3L diesel and my air conditioner just randomly started blowing HOT south texas air. I tried to recharge it with refrigerant but the gauge said that it was over charged as soon as I plugged it into the low side port. What is wrong???
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I have a MKIV R32 and the other day I was driving with the A/C on, blowing cold air when randomly the air turned hot and hasn't blown cold yet. I took a look at the refrigerant levels today and they show a full charge along with the low-side refrigerant tube to the compressor getting cold but no still no luck.
The compressor is on so I don't think that's at fault, what else could there be? Something electrical maybe?
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No AC... Its not the fuse box on top of the battery, I recently already changed that. The air coming out is not cold at all, so I checked the pressure, and it was even higher then it was supposed to. After letting some pressure out, still no cold air. What could the issue be? Should I maybe bleed the system?
Also, its a 2001 GLX so I have climatronic....
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Always regretted selling my 1988 ford diesel. It was a stick shift 4x regs cab. Very fun to drive. But I was a kid so when it developed a tranny noise I panicked and sold it. So, I bought a pile of crap in the form of a 2004 super dooty. It's a long bed ex cab, but had a stick shift!
It's got 330k on the clock, spicer rear end, and the famed 6.0. It's 4x4.. The truck isn't running and has a laundry list of engine issues including coolant blowing out under acceleration, hpop failing, weak injectors, oil leaks.
Compression is claimed to be good, but I'm thinking it would be easier and cheaper to fix up a used engine and swap it in. I'm open to other engines too, so I'd love to hear about options for that.
My research indicates that the 6.0 can be made to work well. For the money I have into the truck there is some room to invest in the engine. I have a line on a lo mile used 2006 6.0 engine. I've been told that the later years like 06 were less prone to some of the issues. Would this engine require head studs/gaskets and hpop fixes?
I'd be doing an egr delete for sure. And a coolant filter setup which is a new concept to me. What else would need to be done to bolster this engine? Turbos okay in these? I saw my friends ford burn to the ground from a cracked turbo. Or, should I put a gas engine in?
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2014 Elantra GT SE tech package. This issue is intermittent so I am reluctant to take it to the dealer as they will just say there is nothing wrong if they cannot replicate the issue.
The problem I have is the ventilation inside the car stops blowing air randomly. I could be driving for 1/2 hour, 1 hour, 3 hours, and all of the sudden the amount of air blowing out of the vents drops down to almost nothing. I can still hear the fan blowing away at what sounds like full power, but air is just barely trickling out of the vents. Really sucks on hot days! This is going to be a bigger issue once winter comes.
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So I can't figure out what is causing my a/c to randomly stop working,it's not leaking or freezing up and it's not the clutch or fuse and so on. What it does is basically it transitions from cool humidity free air to warmer humid air It's been in two different shops and produces no error messages either,however when it does it if you turn the car off and start it again it starts working fine. I've been going crazy trying to figure out what it is!
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My 2006 6.0 is blowing white smoke/steam and Im losing coolant (not out the top). Pulled the EGR valve and its wet down there. All signs lead to EGR cooler? I've been reading a lot on this forum and Ill do the oil cooler at the same time. I seems VERY important to flush the coolant system before I tear into this. I am afraid of hydro locking the motor or ruining the head gasket or stretching the head studs if I run the truck. How can I do this without further damaging the engine? I am doing this myself. I'll have 3 solid days to finish this job because I have to tow my trailer in 5 days.
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My wife drives a 2009 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited which we bought new back in 09. she has put roughly 140,000 miles in that time span. We have religiously followed all required maintenance routines; this is the first major issue we have EVER had with our Santa Fe. The issue we are having involves the AC unit. Instead of blowing ice cold air, the air vents are blowing hot air as if the heater is on. I have check all major AC components and everything is working properly. I believe we are having a controls issue.
At one point, all vents would only blow hot air. The other day, the passenger side vents started blowing ice cold air while the driver side still blew hot air. The driver's side has not blown cold air since this issue started about a week ago. We do have dual climate control; I have tried every possible combination of controls to see if it's a particular switch or button; however, I have not had much luck.
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My truck is a 2005 6.0 with no after mods and has 73000 miles on it. It began to blow white smoke out exhaust. I changed out the egr valve and cooler. After putting back together it then blew white smoke ran it to clear out. This worked however once it warmed up it began to blow thick white smoke at 20 mph and clears up by the time it reached 30mph and white smoke shoots out at rapid acceleration. As well there is coolant leaking out under the truck from somewhere in the motor about in the center. I am looking to work on this myself as I have heard of owners taking it to shops and paying a lot of money for the prob to not get fixed.
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Well I finally went and bought another Ranger. Pretty red 5spd 4WD long bed. I knew it didn't run when I got it (crazy leaky fuel line...stupid squirrels), and the owner was pretty sure it had a head gasket failure. He claimed it was blowing white smoke and using coolant. I hadn't been able to get it to run to verify that, but I can't see why he would lie about that.
I finally got the fuel line fixed today (FYI, don't waste your time or money buying those Dorman OEM connector patch kits at Advanced Auto). While we were cranking the truck, I noticed gas escaping the degas bottle the radiator was pressurized before the thermostat should be open. That to me says blown head gasket (crossing fingers it isn't a cracked head) for sure. I tried to get a picture of the dipstick, but in the light it definitely looks like peanut butter. I just wanted to make sure before the massive ordeal of pulling heads/top end work that will follow
Anyway, plan is to fix her up and get her back on the road! Some picture enjoyment .......
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2010 Tiguan S FWD
My coolant temp light comes on randomly. It blinks and a sound beeps three times. After it stops beeping, the light continues to blink.
It doesn't come on all the time. It is very random. I connected the VAG-COM to see if there were any stored faults, but there were none.
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My '01 Super Duty 5.4 has an overheating/heater problem that the dealer can't seem to fix. I noticed my heater was blowing cold then a few miles later it overheated pushing coolant out of cap. Next day drove fine to Ford dealer who replaced my heater core, thermostat, reservoir cap and a hose. Drove it for a day till the exact original symptoms occurred again with a gurgling sound in dash. Dealer kept for a week pressurizing system but no leaks found. Replaced my thermostat again and gave it back. I drove it 300 miles over a week before the exact same symptoms occurred. Brought back to dealer who said that air was in the system, added a bunch of coolant and supposedly got all the air out. Same symptoms still. Brought back to dealer that finally changed the water pump they said had a leak. Guess what, same symptoms. Heater will work fine for days then it will blow cold, then hot, then cold and sooner or later truck will overheat then just as fast cool down and heater will work again. Still hearing gurgling. Dealer said I don't have a HCV.
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I have a 2000 e150. The front ac blows cold. The back ac blows hot. One unit though. What could be the issue?
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2000 F-150 5.4 scab 4x4
Every light on my overhead display would flash on and off randomly. I pulled it and one 510 was dangling and the other fell off when I touched it. They have been properly re-soldered. It still doesn't work after re-solder. I am trying to figure out which wire is the power and which is ground so I can test if power is getting to the board.
There are 6 wires. On one side is blue w/orange stripe, gray w/ black stripe, and white w/ blue stripe. The other side is pink w/ black stripe, blue w/ red stripe, and black w/ blue stripe. The fuse that the overhead console is on isn't blown since my 4x4 and abs is working.
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My mother's 2000 E150 van isn't blowing any air out of the vents. It doesn't work on high. I can detect a small amount of air coming out of the defrost vents and the floor vents when it is on high. I just replaced the resistor after finding that it had melted and still no air. My mother said that the a/c would go on and off when she hit bumps.
Do you think maybe the fan isn't grounded so the resistor overheated and caused melting in the resistor plug? The plug looks exactly like the one in the middle of this webpage. Same pin melting location also. Ford Blower Motor Resistor Pigtail Replacement...
I ran out of time to work on my moms van because I am in law school and live 2 hours away. Assuming ground, blower, and fuse are all good (I'm checking those friday), what else could be the problem?
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I'm having the same issue as many others with the heat blowing cold air. I have read through the other post ad tried the blend door, actutator, vaccine lines, control ***, and both lines going in and out are hot to touch when warmed up. I am now lost!
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