Ford A/C :: 1999 F350 - Shims For Clutch?
Sep 1, 2009
Where to find shims for the ac clutch. They guy at O'Reilly didn't know what I was talking about when I mentioned an air gap for the ac clutch. He recommended switching out a sensor on the compressor. I have a 1999 F-350 7.3. with 266550 miles. I seem to be having a problem w/ my ac cooling for a few minutes then blows warm air then will blow cool again. All happening while never making switchs to the controls. I have read the other post regarding this issue and it seems to be the air gap is to wide. I backed out the screw in the center and then pulled off the faceplate of the clutch. Question, is the shim the washer looking item which was up inside the faceplate of the clutch? If so, how many are supposed to be there? I saw only one. This is the first time this has been opened up. And if there has been excessive wear, wouldn't the gap get narrower instead of wider?
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I have a 99 f350 7.3 diesel. The AC clutch cycles on for 3-4 turns and then off for 45 sec. It the does it again. The low side starts to cool down and then the clutch quits. as the truck warms up the clutch quits completely. it will restart for a few times if I push in on the elec conn on the ac clutch. My Ac has quit cooling and summer is almost here.
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So I have an 02 f350 and I just recharged the ac system today. At first the clutch wouldn't engage, I tried tapping it and nothing. Then when I went to pull it out of the garage I left it in park to close the garage doors and I could hear it locking and unlocking.
I checked the voltage at the plug and am barely getting half a volt but it still doesn't lock up when I apply direct power to it. I didn't mess with the shims because I do not believe that to be the issue.
After I had shut the truck down and started it back up the clutch wouldn't engage at all. Do I just need to run the system or what? Its working just not consistently, I was thinking the oil needed to be recalculated a bit.
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I'm getting a random 'no start' fault which I think is related to a clutch position switch. The dealer tells me the clutch pivot bushing and master cylinder push rod are worn out, which is causing the switch not to close when the clutch pedal is depressed.
1993 F-350 7.3L Diesel 5 Spd 4x4, Std Cab, 8 Box.
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I recently replaced my Ford Factory clutch with a new LUK kit, lever, pivot & hydraulics and I have to say it is absolutely perfect. If you are going to take the time to do the clutch, do it all. While we had it apart, I decided to push up my Up-Pipe replacement and do it while the transmission is out. What takes several hours to do is done in 30 mins this way. As we all know when we start in a job, we see other things and say well while it is apart I may as well do this, and do that. I decided to do the U-joints in the rear shaft. I had marked the shafts prior to removal for orientation but my assistant did not mark all 3 U-joint knuckles when he changed the joints and reinstalled the shaft.
I took the truck out for a drive and starting at about 15 MPH all the way to 60 ( I dared no faster) it was making me nauseous. Today I looked into it, marked current locations and started rotating front and rear joint 180 to no avail. I said lets just rotate the center joint and go from there. as I was pulling the carrier i noticed a HUGE but dull yellow arrow on the short shaft. I decided to look at the rear shaft and found a HUGE but dull yellow arrow 180 degs from the front. It looks like it could have been a factory mark. I repressed the center u-joint so the 2 arrows line up and the vibration went away. I can not express the aggravation this could have caused if not for those arrows. Take the time to properly index the drive shafts, it will save you tons of time and agitation.
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Is it common to have to shim the water pump pulley? I don't know why but mine seems to have moved back a fraction of an inch. I loosen the belt tension and slide the belt back and as soon as I start the motor, the belt slides forward again. And as I rev the motor, the belt moves even further out onto the edge of the water pump pulley and starts to squeal. All other pulleys are aligned and the belt spins fine on them. I thought about buying a shim kit, but I ordered a new Motorcraft water pump since I have 154k miles on my truck.
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2010 Prius, replacing my tires for the first time at 43K miles, got alignment and shop told me that my rear camber and toe is out and needs shims, measurements are amber left -1.2, right -2.2 toe left 0.40, right 0.15.
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I shimmed my prius this weekend to remove about 0.44 degrees of positive out of 0.60 theoretically bringing total toe down to .16.
The shims add about 3.8 mm between the hub and the suspension. The bolts are M10s I believe with 12 mm heads. There are 4 bolts per hub. I often take off ramps at a pretty good clip rather than braking when going from one freeway to another. The 4 bolts already seem like they wouldn't be enough to hold the hubs on.
When adding the shims, it moves the hub further away resulting in a little more torque at the mating surface on the opposite side of steering. Also, the bolts just barely make it to the last thread.
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I Just replaced the ac condenser filled it with new freon and now the clutch cycles on and off every few seconds but doesn't blow cold air. Does it need to settle for a while or run on high max AC for a while before it works properly? I filled it to the proper level. I'm pretty confident its full. Do I need to adjust anything? It hasn't worked in a few years I bet. I just got the truck. 2001 Ford F-350 7.3 diesel ....
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I just got done changing a/c clutch on a 96 f-350 5.8 because it was making a lot of noise. The new one is just as bad. Would the air gap cause this? When I took it off I could see it was hitting the pulley. The gap was 0.21 is that the specs on it.
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I recently replaced my pads and rotors and when I pulled everything out there were no shims? is that ok run without shims? my rotors were warped bad and I'm wondering if that was part of the cause? my pads had plenty off life left but I changed them anyways? Doing the rear to since I still feel a light wobble when on real smooth pavement...
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Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
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I bought a 1999 F150 4.6 4x4 recently that is giving me some problems. The current one is the AC compressor. The system wasn't charged when I bought it a month or so ago and last week the compressor started smoking. I replaced it with a brand new one, including the clutch and pulley, accumulator and orifice tube. I never got the chance to charge the system because the first time I drove the truck the new compressor started freezing up. I took it back and exchanged it and put the new one in. This time I paid attention and the clutch engages as soon as I start the truck. The AC controls are off and there is no freon in the lines.
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1999 Ford Ranger 2.5L 5 speed transmission. I am a little confused I can not get the transmission to engage the clutch, I replaced the clutch 3 weeks ago, now I have no pressure in the pedal, I have bleed the system 5 attempts with clean solid flow of fluid. What else can I do to fix this or trouble shoot from here?
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When I got home today I went to back into my parking spot and couldn't get my truck in reverse, or any other gear for that matter.
I've been suspecting something was going to go wrong because the last few weeks or so when I push the clutch in it sounded like bb's rolling around in a metal coffee can. Since I have owned it (2 yrs) the clutch has seemed funny anyhow, as in I really have to feather it so it doesn't grab and stall out.
So I've visually inspected what I can so far. Master cylinder fluid is at a proper level and I pulled the inspection cover on the transmission. I didn't see any fluid and reached inside and there wasn't residue in there either. I observed the throwout bearing pushing the clutch cover fingers in when the pedal is pressed and that is about it.
Just wondering about some additional checks I can perform to pinpoint the problem, as well as how to fix it and get rolling again.
1999 Ford Ranger 4x4 XLT
3.0 V6
134,xxx miles
No modifications
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My a/c bearing clutch is making alot of noise well i removed the cluch and snap ring and the bearing is still on there. How do i remove the bearing just pry it out or special tool? Its on a 99 f250 sd.
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My clutch is weak and slips sometimes and I need to replace it. ,I have replaced the clutch disc in other trucks but never a Ranger.
1999 3.0, 5 speed stick, Extended cab....
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What EOT temp should the fan clutch kick on at? I've never heard it kick on until a recent trip. It seems to go on about 228 degrees EOT and keeps the EOT below about 232 degrees.
At slow speeds I've found that the trans will heat up to this temp too. I assume because the radiator cooler is at that temp an there's not enough air flow for the air cooler to cool it down much?
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I was driving to work this morning and my hydraulic clutch linkage messed up on the 1999 f-250 super duty 7.3 with zf 6 speed. It acted like any clutch master cylinder when they go out, the pedal went to the floor and the clutch would not release, but it also became very hard to shove in the clutch pedal, so I speed shifted it without the clutch and made it to work. So I figured no big deal I will swap out the clutch master and slave cylinder complete assembly in the parking lot, except I had to get a ride 30 miles to an auto parts store that had it in stock. I changed out the complete assembly and same problem with the new one, extremely hard clutch pedal, so I did not dare to push it anymore and risk damaging the new cylinders, and left the truck at work. I am thinking broken throw out bearing jammed into the clutch, or dislocated throw out arm causing the problem. The clutch disc, pressure plate and single mass flywheel were replaced by the previous owner 3 years and 15,000 miles ago.
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Odd question, but the a/c clutch has always engaged randomly even though the a/c is not on and even now when the heat is on. Is this normal?
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What type of fan clutch silicone fluid is used in case you need to replace some during removal?(99 ford f150 5.4 vin L)
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