Ford A/C :: 1999 F350 - Clutch Cycles On For 3 - 4 Turns And Then Off For 45 Seconds
May 3, 2011
I have a 99 f350 7.3 diesel. The AC clutch cycles on for 3-4 turns and then off for 45 sec. It the does it again. The low side starts to cool down and then the clutch quits. as the truck warms up the clutch quits completely. it will restart for a few times if I push in on the elec conn on the ac clutch. My Ac has quit cooling and summer is almost here.
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2002 - f250... I originally posted this issue in July of '03. Nothing has changed.
1. At max ac, regardless of how hot it is, the ac clutch cycles due to low pressure once the cabin temp reaches about 78 degrees. This is not acceptable or expected in my opinion.
2. I have run extensive tests, done this for years, and the conclusion is that there is too much pressure drop in the evaporator. I'm seeing 5-7 psi drop measured using a Fluke digital temp probe, insulating the probe tip around the pipe. Compare outlet of orifice tube several as far away from orifice as possible and comparing to outlet temp of evaporator where it comes out of the plastic shrowd. Convert temp to pressure.
I've seen many posts over the years of people not happy with '99 to '04 ford truck ac operation at cruising speed. I have confirmed that the compressor is cycling way too much to cool the cab down. I even ran an experiment where I completely blocked the condensor to raise the head pressure and the compressor still cycked at 1500 rpm's with the cab above 75 degrees on a 90+ degree day.
My next step is to blow out the evaporator and see how much oil and junk I get out of it. I'm also considering taking the evaporator out and trimming the rubber gasket that is around it. It is blocking about an inch of the coil face all the way around.
My conclusion still is that the evaporator just isn't loading up enough as if it's partially clogged. There is only about 2 psi drop between the outlet of the evaporator and the compressor.
The compressor cuts out at 21 psi so the low pressure cutout switch is working properly.
What should I use to flush the evaporator out? Will mineral spirits do it as long as I blow it out real well and make sure I get all of it out? Also wondering if I should blow out the condensor thinking maybe there is something clogging it up.
In spite of some folks on this forum saying it is normal for the compressor to cycle at cruising speed, that is a correct statement depending on many factors. In my case, the cycling is not normal or expected. I have also tried:
1. VOV
2. Larger orifice
3. 14 oz charge over what the sticker says
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20 06 F350 6.0l ... Recently noticed when my climate control selector switch is on the off position, the a/c vacuum pump cycles for a few seconds then stops, then cycles, then stops.. Does this until it's changed to a different setting. Pulled the connector behind the selector and plugged the black hose and it stopped. Re-connected it and could hear site leaking so I kinked the white hose and it stopped. I have also lost my MAX a/c that is now defaulting to defrost. Is there a part number just got the hose selector, or a way to fix the existing one?
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My 2011 f-350 6.2l cold starts hard, it cranks through 2 cycles sometimes before it fires, then it might stall. Sometimes it stalls if I put it into drive or reverse before its warmed up. It has also misfired on one or several cylinders during startup. It has also misfired while driving. It has never stalled when driving. I have replaced the canister purge valve, I have done a full tune up with all factory plugs. All with no change to how it starts. My next step is a Pcv valve, I have one coming from ford today.
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In my 08 Expedition I notice the a/c compressor cycles on for 18-25 sec. then off for about the same. This is with an ambient temp of about 75f. A/C seems to be blowing cool air-never was really cold since new. The idle drops/surges a bit when the a/c kicks on also-which is what grabbed my attention. Is this a normal or is it short cycling?
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The clutch is on 2 seconds and off 2 seconds, and there is a click up on top that clicks every 2 seconds ?..........no cold air either.
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I have a 2002 Ford Explorer with AC that is not cooling. The AC clutch engages, then cycles off and repeats the process over and over. With a gauge on the low side port, the pressure rises to around 65 psi when the compressor is off, then drops in seconds down to nearly 10 psi. Does this indicate low AC pressure? I have always seen the pressure pretty much stay static at a certain pressure....haven't ever seen it fluctuate like that from low to high as the compressor kicks in and out.
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2000 Explorer Sport with 4.0L SOHC engine. When I turn on the A/C the clutch on the compressor cycles off and on every 10-15 seconds. The A/C cools and the gas charge is checked as OK. Is this normal?
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How often should my A/C clutch be cycling when the compressor is being used. (i.e defrost, mix, a/c and max a/c). My clutch never cycles, it starts spinning when I turn something on and it does not shut off until I shut off the a/c. The truck is a 95 F-150 4.9L 5 speed...
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I have a 2006 Expedition with 90k miles. I am the original owner. don't drive the vehicle much just mostly when the family goes somewhere or when I'm putting the Jet skis in the lake.
About a year ago the air con went out and since I don't drive it that much I decided to fix it later, well now is later. How to diagnose the AC system. what I am looking for is a methodical step by step procedure for trying to find out what is causing my AC to not work.
the symptoms are, the compressor turns on runs for a few seconds and then turns off. inside the cab I can hear hear a hiss noise during the few seconds that the compressor comes on and fades away slowly when the compressor shuts off.
I bought a can of 134a with the gauge, I adjusted the gauge for the correct ambient temperature hooked up to the low side and was surprised to see that the Freon was only a little low. I topped it off but still no change in the compressor running.
I bought a set of manifold gauges from Harbor Freight (I know I know you get what you pay for) in any case I hooked up the gauges to see what the pressures are when the compressor turns on but only seeing a little change.
Any way I took my Speedy (expedition) to the local auto air conditioner shop the mechanic hooked his gauge set up to the vehicle, watched it for a few minutes, made some phone calls, came back. He did tell me that he was going to have to replace the compressor, condenser, dryer, expansion valves both front and back and flush the rest of the parts that did not get replaced. I suppose this is a good price if all that work really needs to be done???
However I would like to exhaust all of my options before I dump half the vehicles blue book value into the air conditioning. so I've been searching the internet and found that it is possible the problem may reside in a control valve that may be present in the type of scroll compressor that is in the expedition.
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Just rescued this 2004 from a driveway death. While checking out a no A/C condition I notice that the A/C compressor cycles on for about 10-15 seconds then stops, does this 4 times and then ends. System shows low pressure but doesn't run long enough to build up any. Need to get the OBD-2 tester on it.
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When ever the car stops at a traffic light or stop sign, the air compressor cycles rapidly and the cool air turns warm. I was told the cooling fan was not coming on, but the other day the fan was cycling and the cool air stayed cool. My question is what controls the cooling fan operation? It seems the high pressure switch is working correctly and the fan motor is working. As long as I'm driving the air is cool.
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I own a 2000 Ford F-250 5.4 Automatic. It tows my 5th wheel trailer very good. On our last trip it suddenly experienced the "check engine light" effect.
The light turns on randomly and either goes of after a couple of seconds or it doesn't go on when I restart the engine.It is mainly annoying, but when in towing it really hurts, because the engine switches into an emergency mode and stalls.
I read that the engine uses only 4 cylinders. I read many articles on the web about that light, but I couldn't find a solution. The thing is I brought the car to several repair shops but none read a code from the computer.
I think it's not a real fault but a misreading or maybe a cable that's grounding? The problem is, I can't bring the car to a repair shop, because there is nothing wrong with the car. How can I find the source of the problem?
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As I am driving everything goes dead radio, windows, dash, alarms, everything then turns on a usually 30 seconds later. is it a ground? is it a sensor that's getting to warm? is it a loose wire? where should I start??
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Where to find shims for the ac clutch. They guy at O'Reilly didn't know what I was talking about when I mentioned an air gap for the ac clutch. He recommended switching out a sensor on the compressor. I have a 1999 F-350 7.3. with 266550 miles. I seem to be having a problem w/ my ac cooling for a few minutes then blows warm air then will blow cool again. All happening while never making switchs to the controls. I have read the other post regarding this issue and it seems to be the air gap is to wide. I backed out the screw in the center and then pulled off the faceplate of the clutch. Question, is the shim the washer looking item which was up inside the faceplate of the clutch? If so, how many are supposed to be there? I saw only one. This is the first time this has been opened up. And if there has been excessive wear, wouldn't the gap get narrower instead of wider?
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On 2500 mile trip, no A/C last 400 miles and we're cooking
Compressor clicking on/off about every 5 secs, clutch smell. Seems to be turning okay.
I brought some tools, including a full socket set.
Can I pull the clutch and remove shims in the campground? Looking for a condensed version of how?
Worst case, how do I replace the clutch- of I can find a dealer with one?
Pulley and clutch fixed, but cycling on and off...adding freon?
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I just recently purchased my 1999 ford F-250 superduty V8 5.4 5 speed with 144,00 miles and I'm having a issue with the clutch pedal sticking in and then it will pop out after a couple seconds. It will stick more when I come to a light and have my foot on the clutch but the pickup drives fine and there is no slipping of the clutch. I have never experienced this issue before in any rig I've owned. so I'm a little lost at the moment.
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I recently bought a 2003 f350 7.3, I ordered a tuner for it and tried installing it, at one point while the ECM was still connected I did something and it sparked. Then the powertrain relay (302) started clicking really fast. It clicked in the on position. I switched it with another and it was also clicking. So since I sparke the ECM I figured I messed it up. I ordered another one and it's doing the same thing. Then I pulled fuse 45 (which was good) and put it back in. When I turned truck to on position it wouldn't click anymore, but it still won't start... What it could be? OV ruled out the ECM, powertrain relay (302) and fuse 45, I don't know what else to check.
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I have a 1999 F350 V10 and the other day I started her up she fired right up like normal but a few seconds go by and she dies.. I noticed I do have an exhaust manifold issue I have 5 total bolts broken off out of the 20. My question is could the v10 die because of an exhaust leak? Or could it be a vacuum leak? Also after I started her back up when I put her in reverse she idles real rough. I don't believe it to be a plug or coil because all are new.
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2004 f350 sensor switch will now and then let me turn it "on", but turns itself off immediately. Has never worked since I owned truck.
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I have a 2011 F350 Lariat diesel crew cab. All of a sudden my remote start will not work, sometimes i can do it 5 times and it will finally but most of the time I just hear a lot of clicking noises in the engine like relays or something. Also when I exit my vehicle, if I use either the key fob or the outside keypad on the door to lock the vehicle, the stereo system turns on and stays on. When I open the door it shuts off. The only other thing that might be related is the other day when I put my windshield wipers on, the worked in super super slow-motion, stopped and then started again but at like 1/4 of the normal speed.
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