Ford A/C :: 1999 Expedition - Overheating / Air Stopped Blowing Cold
Jul 25, 2013
Last week my 99 Expedition w/ 130,000 miles overheated. Air stopped blowing cold, then blew REALLY cold momentarily, Temp. went to high, check engine light on, car wouldn't accelerate. Was a block from home - put it in neutral and got home. Let it cool down. Checked all fluids, etc. Took it to our family mechanic - been our mechanic for 5 years - could find nothing obviously wrong so he cleared the code. Car ran fine for a week then temp started to rise again yesterday. Only common thread...the rear air was on both times. Once we were highway driving, other time in stop/go traffic. Replaced the thermostat last year.
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I have a 2000 f-350 that overheated 2 months ago I replaced the radiator...it seemed fine for a month then started blowing cold air then would start to overheat and back and forth so I replaced the thermosat.......but when i checked the old one with a cooking theromometer it was fine. not long after that the heater core started leaking so i replaced that..and now its back and forth overheating and blowing cold air....then fine for 1/2 hour..then back and forth again.. Truck has 250,000 miles on it
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My 02 F350 7.3 new to me trucks ac stopped blowing cold. Not air gap issue (shims have been removed prior to my ownership-I pulled hub and checked), the charge is good (according to the shop I went to for evac and refill), and the compressor's cycling quickly. I'm no HVAC guy by any stretch. I have a cheapie gauge from days long ago that I connected to my low side port (which I know isn't definitive) and it reads from 25 to about 40/45 depending on the cycle.
Additional info that may not be anything:
1) Where the line goes from accumulator to evaporator the foam seal is slightly messed up and I feel ice cold air coming out of the housing.
2) The line is warm before the orifice and cold after it.
3) The lines going to the accumulator are both hot (after taking it to shop, before were lukewarm).
4) The condenser doesn't seem to have excessive plugging and I have rinsed it with garden hose sprayer with no difference.
5) The air from the vents blows good, just warm.
6) I've replaced the actuator for the blend door already.
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Background : 2002 Excursion 7.3L, 320k miles ...
AC was working OK, but not great. Then AC stopped blowing cold at all. Checked pulley, gap was huge, but pulley bearing was completely destroyed. Like, 1/2" wobble, half the ball bearings in there. Amazed it hadn't seized. Replaced pulley, set air gap to bottom of the spec.
Air seems to blow kinda cold briefly, then fades to no cooling after a couple minutes. Same at idle or moving. Front and rear both not cold. Lines in engine bay are cool, but not real cold
Compressor body feels hot, like...right at that threshold of too hot to touch. Don't have pressure gauges, but will buy/borrow some and take some readings.
What would symptoms of a clogged orifice tube be? What would symptoms of a clogged condenser be? If low on r134, I could refill, but any tips on chasing down leaks?
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2002 F350 with V10. A/C stopped blowing cold. I can hear the clutch clicking on and off, so probably needs refrigerant? Other thing is that with A/C off, the temp control turned to cold, and fan on, it blows hot air. On my other vehicles with A/C off and temp turned to cold, I get outside air at ambient temp.
I removed the cover off the evap core under the dash and observed the blend door opening and closing as the temp selector is moved. The duct door moves correctly, so am I'm missing something? Is the Ford system such that ambient air is always heated? This happens even in cold temp conditions.
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The AC was blowing hot air. But then we noticed that we could hear a flap closing. So the game has been, to keep it cold, to stop somewhat abruptly, then turn on the AC, then DO NOT accelerate quickly or you will hear the "shut" which makes the air turn hot.
Now, I have gone to auto zone and bought two things: Air Door Actutator, and Blend Door Repair Kit, both supposed to be for 1999 Expedition. I don't yet know which I need. I am looking to do the fix through the glove compartment which I understand is possible, although no one mentioned it here back in 2004.
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Will the computer in a 2007 shut down the AC compressor in an overheating scenario because it would be considered non essential? Yesterday on my way home from work my AC quit blowing cold. I just had the compressor changed a couple of months ago so my first though was bad compressor. Then I noticed the temp gauge start to climb. The truck was over heating. There was a hole in the radiator. Now that the overheating problem is fixed the AC is again blowing cold. I just would like to know if I may be starting g to have issues with the compressor again or if it's natural for it to shut the compressor off because of overheating of the motor.
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As I was driving, my break light came on and my ABS light came on. Also, the temp gauge stopped registering and my AC stopped blowing cold air. Is this a familiar problem or do i have a legit electrical problem.
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Last summer, the A/C on our 2012 Ford Escape stopped blowing cold air. We took it to our mechanic (who I trust). They checked for leaks but found none. They did an evacuation and recharge of the system. Cold air started blowing again! Then 2-3 weeks later, my wife says she saw a puff of smoke come out of the vents (not sure if it was smoke or vapor or what). The A/C stopped blowing cold air shortly after that. We took it back to the mechanic. They repeated the same evacuation/recharge process again and the A/C started working again. 2-3 weeks later, we saw the same puff and then no cold air.
That happened last Fall, so we waited until this spring to try again. Just took it back to mechanic. They checked the levels and the pressure was good before they did anything else. No leaks. They did the evacuation/recharge and the air is now blowing cold again. But, I have no reason to think it will last.
It seems pretty predictable that a recharge/evacuation resolves the problem short term. Why it's not lasting? What, if anything, could I try to diagnose? Seems that my mechanic does not know what else to try.
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I have a 2004 volkswagen jetta, and it has started overheating. At first my problem was the thermostat. After that was changed out the fans stopped working correctly. It kept blowing fuses in s180 slot.
I read somewhere in another post that this is due to the fact the resistor in the low speed fan go bad, and for your car's radiator fan to go from zero to high speed, causes the fuse to blow. Also I read that when the fans start up it draws the most current, and then after it's running the current is considerably less.
This is my solution, I went to napa, and got a circuit breaker for a car, and Yes, to my surprise they make them. I picked up several a 10amp, 15 amp, 20 amp, and a 30 amp. First, I tried the 30 amp circuit breaker and it didn't trip the circuit, but when I put a regular fuse in the slot, it did trip the circuit, when I did the fan test at the thermostat switch. Next, I put the 25 amp in there and neither did it trip the circuit. When I put the 10 amp in the s180 slot, it tripped the circuit, just as the regular 30 amp fuses do. So that confirmed that the amps that were being drawn from the fans were not enough to trip a 30 amp circuit breaker.
What I did next, is I took a 20 amp circuit breaker and put that in the s180 slot. Then I hooked up vag com on my laptop to check and see how it performed with the 20 amp circuit, and these are the results.
Car Temperature in celsius
at 111 degrees the gauge was moving past the halfway point
at 115 degrees the gauge was one notch past halfway going towards the red zone
at 120 degrees the gauge was two notches past halfway going towards the red zone
at 122 degrees the fans kicked on high speed for about 30 seconds, and knocked the
temperature down to 105 degrees.
In conclusion, if the high speed on the fans work, you don't have to take those out and go and buy an expensive new fan set. Just stick a 20 amp circuit breaker in the slot, and keep using the fans that you have.
Part no: 782-3154................ Name: Circuit Breaker, 20 Amp; Blade
Note: I take NO responsibility for any damage you do to your vehicle from any information you obtained from this post. Do this at your own risk! I am not a mechanical expert but this is my solution to the overheating problems.
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I have a 2004 GX470. Now that the weather has dropped I have noticed that my heater is taking a long time to warm up all it does is blow cold air out of the vent. Subsequently I have started to notice that they car will start to overheat. It will never get to the point where it will hit the red but it will go up and then come back down to mid range. There doesn't seem to be anything else wrong with the car, it idles fine, starts fine etc. Could these two issues be related?
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A few weeks ago my car started overheating and blowing cold air while I was on the highway. I took it to my mechanic and he found that the radiator was leaking. Two weeks later the car was overheating and the heater was blowing cold air when I was on the highway. I had it towed to the same mechanic and the car wouldn't overheat nor would it blow cold air. He drove it all around and on the highway but couldn't get the problems I was having to occur. Now I have intermittent heat. Sometimes I will start the car and it will take 20+ minutes for the heat to blow warm air. Other times the heat works fine for a while and then starts blowing cold air. Usually when it starts blowing cold air I begin to smell a sweet odor, possibly coolant. It hasn't overheated again, but I have stayed off the highway.
I just had the thermostat changed, and the upper radiator hose warms up quickly. When the heater is blowing cold air, one or both of the hoses connecting to the heater core do not warm up. Sometimes it's both hoses, other times the hose going in is hot but the other hose is cool. My mechanic seems to think that the head gasket is leaking air into the system, and that the air is preventing the coolant/water from being properly transported throughout the car. He did a pressure test to see if it was the head gasket when I brought the car in but it wasn't conclusive. Does it sound like a head gasket leak, or could it be a blocked heater core, or a weak water pump? So far I haven't noticed any coolant leaks, but I could be missing something.
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Truck has heat when driving but when stopped blows cold air. Replaced thermostat. still blows cold when stopped.
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This is on a 06 GTI. Yesterday my AC just stopped blowing cold. I checked the fuses did not find any that were bad. Belts are new, compressor is spinning, not sure if the clutch is engaging, can't hear anything clicking etc. Upon further investigation it is doing some weird stuff. Fan speed works fine, blows air but no cold air however if I try and get hot air (the heater) there is no change in air temp. If I turn the "ECON" button on and off no change. If I turn on the front defrost then I get Hot air but that is the only way I can get any temp change hot or cold, nothing will make it blow cold just to clarify. Last odd thing is if I crank the heat up to max I get no airflow from anywhere!? What is going on?
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To my surprise, I found coolant seeping out around a fuel injector. My guess that this indicates an issue with the gasket and it needs to be replaced. I hope this is not expensive and is replaceable if you can follow instructions. So I am looking for suggestion to test and confirm if this is the issue and procedures to complete the repair. I have general basic tools (sockets, wrenches, and screwdrivers)My expedition has over 200K miles. A gas drinking elephant at 13 miles /gal but has been extremely reliable. I am also considering replacing her with something less thirsty.
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Issue I have with my 2012 Prius I bought about 9 months ago. The air stopped blowing completely. No hot air blowing, no cold air blowing. It is starting to get warm out now and need some AC. Is it the blower motor under the glove box that has gone out? Seems odd.
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No AC... Its not the fuse box on top of the battery, I recently already changed that. The air coming out is not cold at all, so I checked the pressure, and it was even higher then it was supposed to. After letting some pressure out, still no cold air. What could the issue be? Should I maybe bleed the system?
Also, its a 2001 GLX so I have climatronic....
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There have been two occurrences where the air conditioning has stopped blowing cold air (blows warm) and the indicator led on the switch is blinking on and off. This has happened twice, about a month apart. The air is generally plenty cold. Does this means the air is going out on my 2002 camry ?
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The A/c stopped blowing cold on my 06 Passat 2.0t. I checked the pressures on the low side of the system and it was 100 psi with a cold engine and 130 when hot. Obviously this is too much. It seems as if the compressor is always engaged even when the a/c is off (every part of the a/c pulley is always spinning the little nut sticking out of the center of the pulley spins as well not but im not sure if that's how it is when the compressor isn't engaged).
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On my 2000 E.B. I have NO A/C at all. All vents on the dash, regardless of vent, floor, defrost, ETC all blow hot air, even with the A/C on Max A/C. Also, all the rear vents for the rear HVC blow WARM air as well. I have no A/C in the back either. I don't hear any flopping around under the dash going down the road and I have checked the A/C compressor with the unit on Max A/C and the clutch appears to be engaged and the compressor appears to be operating normally.
I have NOT YET checked the A/C lines or dryer to see if they get cold, I will check that tonight, but I expect them to be getting cold because the Compressor does not cycle on and off, it stays running pretty much all the time. It clicks off once and again, but not very often at all (such as the case would be if the system was low on freon).
So, if the A/C lines are getting cold (if they are not, I will know my problem is compressor related, likely anyway), what this problem could be? From what I've read, if the Front blows hot, yet the rear blows cold, it's a blend door actuator or broken blend door, but that is not my problem. I have no A/C at all, everything blows hot.
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Well my a/c stopped blowing cold last week so I took it to an a/c shop and they said it was really low on freon. The guy recharged it and we noticed the driver side fan wasn't turning on. Said that it was causing to much pressure and it was blessing it off causing the loss of freon. So I came home and put it on the lift to check out the fans. I unplugged the fans from the bottom side below the fcm and the pass side fan comes on with a 12v source but when I put power to the other plug (drivers side fan) there's nothing across the high or low side. Guessing the fan is toast right? Just making sure before I order a new fan. What's all involved in replacing the fan? Also I've read the vw fans have a resistor that are known for burning out. Should I go with oem or a different brand from ecs?
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