Ford A/C :: 1999 - Clicking And Rough Sounding Noise Coming From Clutch?
Aug 29, 2010
I have a 1999 SD V10 with about 133K on it. Runs great to the day. Recently I noticed alot of clicking and rough sounding noise coming from the a/c compressor the other day. Yep I got up underneath it and it look like it's about shot.
My question is : How hard is it to replace the clutch yourself with a new one. Are there any step by step direction here on the ford forums on how to do it. Looks like can just replace the a/c clutch and be good to go. A/C still blows cold air.
I took it to my mechanic the other day and they want $ for a replacement compressor and labor. I'd like to try and avoid that amount for now and just replace the clutch.
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On start up I constantly get a almost dial up Internet connection sounding noise coming from my engine (2.5)? I've been told that it could be from the cold weather ,,,,
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I thought there was a v10 specific superduty section like how the psd does, but my thread went in the "performance, engine, troubleshooting" section.
I wanted more exposure than that particular small viewed area.
I don't have a video of the noise, but my 99 f450 v10 5spd has some iffy noise coming from the front. I've read so many threads on this and they either end with "my motor had 1-2-3 bad pistons" or "my flexplate was cracked" and all that dealt with chain tensioners were never finished.
I know what piston slap sounds like (worked on many cobras and lightnings with forged pistons that had it) and have experience with bad wrist pins and broken piston skirts, and this noise doesn't sound like any of it.
Noise is a loud clicking/clunking/Detroit diesel idle noise. When you rev the engine up it doesn't lighten or get better, only worse as rpm goes up. Oil is terrible looking, I'll be getting that changed this week.
Story on truck. I've had this thing for 4 years with blown motor. I got a buddy that acquired a parts truck and he said it ran good. I dropped my truck off and he swapped the engine. I got my truck back running, but with this engine noise. He said it needs to get run some more and change oil.
I think it's timing tensioners, my buddy says it will come out of it, a mechanic friend says it's going to blow up "because they all do" and I don't really want to replace the engine again.
If it's tensioners, how big of a job is it. I have the cam clamps and crank stop and the ford tools to make sure crank and cams don't rotate while apart.
I'm just 650 miles from my truck and may need someone else to do the work. Which sucks.
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I bought a 2000 Ex PSD 4x4 in september. I have refreshed the suspension in the last 4 months; leafs, shocks, etc. I developed a vibration over 50mph after I installed the suspension and have been chasing it since.
I have replaced the U Joints, professionally balanced and lubed driveshaft twice, adjusted driveshaft angle to less than 1*, replaced the flanges for the TC output and the driveshaft companion flange. I have not touched the diff, but there is no decernable play in the pinion or leaks. Also, I removed the rear housing of the TC and replaced the output needle bearing and seal 2 weeks ago.
The output of the TC still has 1/4" play and a clicking noise coming just forward of the chain section of the TC. I assume the play is coming from other bearings on the main shaft in the TC.
I am about to purchase a remanufactured TC, but before I do, I need a reality check. Is it possible there is damage to the output bearing of the Transmission or something else?
I don't want to buy a TC to put in and experience a TC failure again in a short time. It doesn't make sense to me that there would still be so much play after changing the output shaft needle bearing of the TC if the TC main shaft is supported not just from the TC bearings but the output of the transmission unless there was possible play in the output of the transmission.
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I have a 99 Alero that wont start. I have had 3 people look at it and they don't seem to understand what's wrong with it. I was told to replace the ignition switch and to also get a new battery , which I did. It still wont start. I go to turn my key and it does absolutely nothing. Makes no noise , nothing. When I have it in the on position all my lights begin to flicker including my headlights. They also get very dim and it makes a fast clicking noise coming from the fuse box under my hood. Someone told me that my security system needs to be reset and to put it in the on position for 10 mins , but nothing happened.
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So Friday before last my ex laid down on me while i was headed to work. So I parked it in a walmart parking lot and caught a ride to work with a friend then had it towed home that evening. Problem i was having is it started running really bad, miss firing, smoking, and sounding real rough, but I wasn't getting any trouble codes. So after both uvch's, icp, ipr, icp pigtail, checking fuel for water contamination and pulling my hair out, i decided to check the oil and found it to be 4 quarts low. Talk about feel like a knuckle head.... While it was down it did receive a new water pump, a diesel site 203* thermostat, new billet thermostat housing, Gooch's Radiator Flush Procedure, and some fresh rotella etc.
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My pickup has 316,000 miles on it. It's a 2000 ford f250 7.3 powerstroke. I have always bragged how my truck can pull anything because it has alot of power. Yesterday when pulling a 28' travel trailer up an incline I noticed I didn't have much power and it steadily got worse. Now I'm at a crawl when I hear a noise sounding like it lost air compression for a few minutes then the noise stopped. I stopped and looked to make sure everything under the hood was still attached and everything seemed fine.
I got back in and continued very slowly a few more miles home. Gauge were all good, never got hot. I put a scanner on it and it threw two codes. P1247 and P1248. I haven't noticed any unusual smoke. This is my second ford I've owned and know that when weather gets cold you may have to plug it in. But this truck it doesn't matter if it's 100 outside it will not start without plugging in for at least 1 hour. I've replaced all glow plugs hasn't worked. So I am assuming this break down now has something to do with it. I really am starting to not like fords!
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On 2500 mile trip, no A/C last 400 miles and we're cooking
Compressor clicking on/off about every 5 secs, clutch smell. Seems to be turning okay.
I brought some tools, including a full socket set.
Can I pull the clutch and remove shims in the campground? Looking for a condensed version of how?
Worst case, how do I replace the clutch- of I can find a dealer with one?
Pulley and clutch fixed, but cycling on and off...adding freon?
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2002 F350 with V10. A/C stopped blowing cold. I can hear the clutch clicking on and off, so probably needs refrigerant? Other thing is that with A/C off, the temp control turned to cold, and fan on, it blows hot air. On my other vehicles with A/C off and temp turned to cold, I get outside air at ambient temp.
I removed the cover off the evap core under the dash and observed the blend door opening and closing as the temp selector is moved. The duct door moves correctly, so am I'm missing something? Is the Ford system such that ambient air is always heated? This happens even in cold temp conditions.
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Black 4 Door '13
37xx miles
Build date 07/12
No engine mods
I have had the clicking/popping clutch noise since I was breaking in the clutch but i thought it would eventually wear off. I have went through all the transmission threads and seen that a lot of people got it fixed having their clutch pedal assembly or master cylinder replaced.
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I have a 2007 Explorer with around 79,000 miles on it and it has been in for assorted repairs over the last 6 months. Cooling issues, Losing all Coolant, Rough sounding engine, Stalling while driving, The mechanic has said they replaced much of everything each time I take it in. But now it was in for a fuel pump and while they were test driving it he said the Internal balance Shaft exploded and shrapnel is in the engine. His solution replace the engine with a 2008 has 38k on it for $2K. Does this sound right?
Do these Explorers have issues like this?
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Just replaced my OEM clutch and flywheel with SPEC ones and now I have a weird clicking noise during idle from it. Noise goes away when I press in clutch. My technician says that they are known for this noise. Is that true?
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On my 13 Elantra since the day I got it almost 2 year's now has always made this click noise when I disengaged the clutch and go, (not the clutch solenoid noise similar) I'll hear the clutch solenoid then almost like my left front brake was slightly sticking it makes a click like the caliper's popping loose!? I've mentioned it the stealership & nothing they tried to tell me the dust shield was touching however the noise came back within minutes I noticed it! It's just one of those annoying sound's that you need to figure out or go crazy, stick model, could it be the clutch fork or bearing releasing just can't figure it out.
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2010 Ford Focus. My fiancee noticed that when accelerating, the car has an electrical sounding whine coming from the engine. It only occurs when we're accelerating and pitches a bit higher when we're turning
We have until Thursday to return the return the car if their is an issue.
I've attached a video of her revving the engine.
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A while ago, I complained about a clicking/clapping sound when I fiddle around with the clutch. I took my car to the dealer today. I let him hear the problem and he instantly knew the problem. 3 minutes for diagnostic. 1 minute for paper work. 1 hour and 26 minutes of labor. DONE. When I let the mechanic hear the noise he rolled his eyes and said, "All newer Elantra's do this".
I was lucky because the customer before me had the same problem and he/she didn't show up on their time slot. The parts were there already and he brought my car in. He said the problem was a bad axle nut, and needs a new spacer, or something. Some dealers tighten it but he highly recommends getting a new one.
After an hour and a half I was gone.
[URL] .....
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Ok, I am new to the Tiguan but not new to VW engines. For the last 11 years I am driving a 1.8T and I test drove the newer GTIs and Audis with the 2.0T. But with my 2012 Tiguan S manual I find the engine to be a little loud and rough sounding. Especially under heavy load it more reminds me of a diesel than a 4 banger turbo. Now, is this this normal or is it just my engine?
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My daughters 07 Accent quit a few days back. She managed to get it home but it was making a noise on the left side of the block before it died again. I started it the next morning and it was rough sounding for a minute or two before it died. There has been a check engine light on for quite some time that I was unaware of. A friend had a brand new fuel pump he sold me (very cheaply) so I installed that yesterday but the starter just cranks with no combustion at all. I will check for spark this AM and if there is none I will likely replace the crank sensor.
I've checked any and all fuses under the hood and all seem fine (although I've never seen the type with the two little "balls" but they seem to by fine also) My question concerns the timing belt. If I have spark and fuel pressure, how do I check for a bad timing belt ? I looked in through the oil cap filler for cam lobes but can't see past what looks like an oil "spout" part at the filler. Also, if the belt is gone would it bend the valves on this motor ? If the belt has stripped teeth and screws the timing I should still get some sort of very rough firing in a cylinder or two, shouldn't I ?
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So far from reading up here is my list:
1) Water pump.
Its not leaking or making noise at this time.
2) Clutch clicking at initial travel.
Noticed this on the first couple miles.
3) Smelly A/C.
This is ongoing
4) Wind noise from doors at highway speed.
Noticed this also
5) Wastegate rattle
Don't hear any rattle, or I am not narrowing down the sound when it happens.
Anything else I should add?
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The problem is intermittent: After turning off the car, there is a clicking noise coming from the needles in the dash. Sometimes the needles click and jump repeatedly; sometimes there is just the clicking noise. To get it to stop, I'll turn the ignition switch several times. At this point, the car seems "dead" but not from the battery. The car actually will not do anything electrically including popping the truck, unlocking, etc. It will not start.
After turning the switch several times, the car would eventually start like nothing was ever wrong with it. I am just guessing that there is something wrong with the switch or something electrical. I also want to think it coincides with something to do with the battery. The problem seems to be worse after checking and seeing that the battery may be low. We have had the alternator checked, we've had the battery itself checked, etc. In addition to driving around with an angry (bad) catalytic converter, this problem, etc, I really would like to send it off of a ravine.
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Our 2002 Ford Windstar has 78k miles. On 6/2/15 we had the brakes replaced. Soon after I noticed a ticking/clicking noise that sounded like it was coming from the right rear tire. It only happened when I braked and then only happened sometimes. It didn't seem to matter if the car was cold or had been running awhile, if I was on flat ground or on a hill, or if I had been going fast or slow. I couldn't predict when it happened. The car always stopped okay. So I took it back to the repair shop, and they made an adjustment and it was quiet. Two days later it started again, so I took it back. They machined the rear drums and the noise was gone. Five days later I hit a rough patch of pavement and when I braked the noise started again. Back to the shop. They had one of the mechanics ride with me. No noise of course. They said to bring it back when it makes the noise. Well, it has made the noise, but only a few times and I can't predict when it will happen. The car runs fine and brakes fine. I trust this repair shop. They've worked on the car in the past.
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Well I went to go to home depot and the key turned and my theft light started blinking and I hear a clicking noise coming from my fuse panel. By the way this is on a 2000 7.3l 4x4 limited. I found what was clicking (see picture) it is the second relay down, the one with the chipped plastic. My question is is this a relay I can replace or is it part of the fuse box? Where I can get a replacement? This is my daily driver so I need to fix this ASAP.
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