Ford A/C :: 1997 F150 - Manifold Is Leaking?
Jun 6, 2013
I have been told by the AC shop that my AC manifold is leaking. I have a f150 1997. When they say manifold do they mean both the suction and high pressure lines? In pictures it looks like the AC manifold includes all the lines to the compressor.
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I have a 98 F150 4x4 Super Cab 4.6 auto that has a leaking exhaust manifold. I changed both manifolds about 3 years ago and the passenger side bank is leaking again. I haven't gotten into yet to see if its just the gasket or the manifold itself. My question is does anyone know of a set of headers I can put on the truck that will bolt up to the existing exhaust? If I make the switch to headers I don't want to have to redo the whole exhaust system.
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'03 Ranger, 2.3L. Runs great except at idle. Code p0171. Replaced IAC, no luck.
Brake cleaner leak test definitely results in engine rpm change right around "butterfly rod" plug in front of intake manifold near no. 1 cyl. I'm pretty sure that's the problem - the plastic plug blew out. I watched a video showing repair, but it seems lacking.
I do not want to loosen up intake for access - I'd rather remove steering pump and gain some access to plug it up. There still isn't much access but, but eyeballing it, enough to plug, I think.
Three steering pump bolts came out easy. The fourth one is behind fluid line - extremely difficult to access, imo.
Somehow try to remove pump for access to intake hole, or bite the bullet and remove intake manifold for access?
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I have a 95 4wd f250 with a 351w my manifold gaskets are leaking I was wondering if when I that the time to remove the manifolds and probably be drilling and tapping should I go with headers if I should where can I get a very cheap set I'm on a budget...
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2005 Supercrew and my passenger side exhaust manifold was leaking. Son of a mother duck that was a joke to get removed. Front two studs broke off about 1/4" below the surface. Manifold is not cracked but putting a straight edge across it's out of plane at least a quarter inch.
Had planned on the dorman manifold but read some poor reviews about it cracking in less than a year and being warped out of the box. There is an ATP manifold with very few reviews but all good. Or just bite the bullet and do shorty headers? The driver's side looks a lot easier to access.
These trucks really weren't designed to be worked on after assembly were they? I had to invent new cuss words. Looks like Ford manifold is disco'd...
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04 f250, 5.4 ,90,000mi. Checked my oil today and saw this white flaky crap on the dipstick its salt, probably from a broken dipstick tube, probably broken at the manifold right where there was a huge deposit salt right on top. The manifold is leaking anyway I was hoping to wait till spring when everything dries out and warms up a little bit, but with salt getting into the engine I think I have to do it now. Is there any way to deflect moisture off the road away from the exhaust manifolds?
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I have a early 99 7.3, I have parked it for the winter an I had moved the truck the other day an have noticed it had leaked some oil, after looking for the source I found that it is leaking out of the #7 cylinder exhaust port. I know the oil is forsure in the manifolds usually burns off but now that it is not getting to operating temp it is staying a liquid. Where is this oil coming from?!!
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On the manifold there is a metal/steel pipe that the heater hose hooks to. That pipe is leaking anitifreeze. It has a small hole in it. Is this pipe replaceable or is it part of the manifold.
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I've just finished a marathon replacing the y-pipe, and doing the IPR screen. I had many seized/stripped bolts to contend with. 2 I had to cut off in the most awkward places.. Anyways, it all came together and completed the project late tonight...
Befoer even starting the truck I noticed coolant dripping from passenger side manifold/block heater area.. I obviously must have damaged something in my reefing on turbo to get it lined up with exhaust pipes, etc...
I cannot see the source of the leak, but it seems wet above the block heater, but pools there then drips.. I'm curious where to look. Could I have damaged the EGR cooler and its coming from there? At the manifold joint closest to the back, is there coolant flowing there? I am pretty frustrated, because after going through a day like to day, ripping my arms to shreds, straining for 12 hours straight, then having yet another issue to figure out...
Also this is as best as I could get the y-pipe to meet the turbo... slight gap at bottom.
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I have a 1999 Ford Expedition. A couple of days ago The engine started losing coolant as soon as the engine cooled. I replaced the coolant only to lose it again when the engine cooled. I was told that it is more likely the intake manifold gaskets leaking. It seems they are right. What is the cost to repair if I take it to a mechanic?
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I have a 2005 f250 5.4 no mods. its got 120k and needs a wake up. the passengers side exhaust manifold is leaking to the point of fixing and would like to get some input before the big purchase. my question is, headers or new manifold, and what brands is preferred for both I really don't prefer one or the other i just want the best fix really. Changing coil pack and getting more performance out of them and if so what brand. I would like a boost in lower end acceleration and throttle response, like a programmer or such. and if so what brand once again.
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I had a fuel starvation problem because Ford painted the inside of the fuel tank and the paint was coming off and clogging the filters and because I foolishly drove it I now have white smoke spewing out of the tail pipe and an engine miss.
I also explained that I thought that the white smoke did not smell sweet like antifreeze, but rather like diesel. (Hoping that a head gasket replacement is not required.)
I am in the middle of doing the Hutch Mod with frame-mounted Racor PS120-2 jar-type screen pre-pump filter and shortening my previous Harpoon Mod and paint stripping and powerwashing the inside of my tank. Next I plan to move on toward the engine issue.
This evening I was under the van with a flashlight and I noticed that there was a black liquid of some sort at the driver's side exhaust manifold where it joins the up-pipe. At first I was afraid to touch it fearing that it would be carbon-sooted water, but it felt and tasted like carbon-sooted diesel.
And since I haven't started the engine in two weeks and it has been routinely near or over 100F in Sacramento, water would have likely evaporated days ago.
Does it make sense if the fuel starvation problem caused an injector nozzle or its cup to crack or to stick open or to otherwise spew unburnt fuel into the exhaust manifold which would cause the white smoke? Obviously, the unburnt fuel must get from the affected cylinder(s) to the tail pipe somehow, which likely means out the exhaust valve, through the exhaust manifold to the up-pipe and through the turbo to the exhaust pipe and finally to the tail pipe.
See pictures at my CP. I can't figure out how to attach them or put them inline here because it still says I can't do attachments.
What is my next move? Remove the driver's side valve cover? If so, what should I look for, etc.?
2002 E350 extended body van 7.3 diesel auto trans converted to 4x4 (bought new)
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Whats the best way to get at the driver side exhaust manifold? I have a leak and its tough to get at. Should I remove the tire and inner wheel well?
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I have a 2001 ford f150 with a rear sliding window. This is an extended cab. Whenever it rains, there are a couple of leaks from the top of the window leaking onto the rear bench. I just purchased the truck. So do I have any repair tips? May be worn out weatherstripping?
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The truck we have is a 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500, 2-Wheel Drive with a 350 vortec engine. We replaced the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets with no leaks for about a week and several hundred miles then it started leaking oil and then antifreeze after that.
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2.4 Santa Fe ... I just took my Car to MOT inspection and found out there's a leak at my intake manifold and it's coming out of this place. it feels like brake fluid but my brake fluid is full?? I have seen many cars but never seen a part like this before. what is it doing there and why is it leaking ?
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Daughters 94 f150 4.9L 204K miles e40d started leaking transmission fluid from the bell housing, so she parked it for 2 years...Now I have been nominated to fix it... Truck was running good when parked. Got it started (Just charged battery and started it up), and backed it up. Reverse is good and solid. When I tried to move it, it wouldn't move in drive. Starts to engage, then drops out. Pulled into first, and the truck moves, but have to have high rpm.
Replaced tc seal, filter and fluid, (12 quarts). No change... Ran it down the road, had to start off in first, good power up to about 35, shifted to second, it shifted...ran up to 45, then shifted into drive, it shifted, and maintained power. Had to slow so stopped and turned around, tried moving out in drive, and it just kept dropping out. Returned home as I left...read a lot of this forum, and learned some but not enough..
Pulled codes 327,116,536,538. No transmission codes.
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1999 F150, 4.2L v6, 180K miles, 2WD. Trans is flaring (slipping) in first when warm and was told the pump is leaking too. This truck has easy use (no big towing or hard use) and when it did it the second time, we parked it. I do not want to have anything fail and really damage things inside. We dropped the pan and changed the filter and filled it with fresh Motorcraft fluid. No change.
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I have an 86 F150 that is idling rough. It used to cut out on me until I replaced the fuel pressure regulator. I have read in other posts that the problem for my rough idle could be leaking injectors. When I replaced the regulator I found a bad injector. My question is that if I check my fuel pressure, with the new regulator, would the only way I would lose pressure be that my injectors are leaking?
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1987 f150 302 4spd 4x4. When I bought the truck 4 years and 12K miles ago the orig owner had just installed a new front pump (in tank) and new switch thing on the frame rail. He said shortly after that the rear pump stopped working so he just ran off of the front tank. That's what I've been doing also except as of the last few months it has started to leak from the rear tank (I don't ever put gas in it and was empty when I bought it) and dies periodically from time to time? Where the leak could be coming from. I do suspect the dying has to do with the leak though.
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Leaking exhaust manifold? The truck has a much louder than normal "knock" when accelerating. At first I thought and had some bad fuel in the tank. I eliminated that with a full take of good fuel and some STP but the "knocking" continued. Then I thought that perhaps it wasn't firing on all cylinders but it felt like it had full power. I took it to my mechanic and he said it as a exhaust manifold leak. He said that he has never replaced the exhaust manifold but that it was a "nightmare" and expensive. He also said that it's not a safety issue but on the long run the leak would cause the truck not to pass its emission test. He said the problem was with rusted bolts that would be difficult to remove.
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