I have a 97 expedition that i am having trouble with. It has front and back airconditioner. The compressor is short cycling real fast. Warm air in the front and cool air in the back. I put a can of freon in but still not cooling. The gauges are between 30 psi and 50 on the low side. The high side is between 100 and 150 psi. The ambient temp was 80 degrees.....
View 1 RepliesMy 03 Expedition A/C quit working, the compressor was cycling on and off so I took it in to be recharged thinking it was low. They said was completely out and it took 3.5lbs to recharge although they couldn't find any signs of leaking. When they recharged it they put more dye in to find the leak, the technician said he suspected a compressor since it was completely empty and had been working in the spring.
I was hoping it was a compressor as I have changed one before on my 97 Expedition and am pretty comfortable with it, however I can't see any thing leaking using a UV light. I have checked the compressor and every line I can see all the way back to the rear (it has rear air). When they recharged it worked very good for about 8 days on the 9th day it was working and went from blowing cold to hot instantly. Where or what to look for??
I have a 1999 F250SD with V10 and the compressor recycles about every 4 to 5 seconds and doesn't cool very much. I checked the 134a level and according to my gauge it has sufficient level. What could be my problem.
View 4 RepliesMy AC compressor failed so I replaced it.
I put in 1 can of R134, and I don't see the compressor cycling.
How do I remove the connector to the accumulator so I can jump it and force the AC to run.
My 2003 F150's compressor cycles even when the a/c or defroster is not turned on. It has the climate control type of temperature system. This doesn't seem normal.
View 2 RepliesJust did some trading for a 97 f150 4x4 extended cab with a 5.4 and auto trans. The guy I got it from told me that the transmission in it shifts real fast and won't downshift once it gets going and shifts hard sometimes. From past experiences I figured it might be the tps and sure enough pulled codes and I got the 122 code for voltage to low on it. Checked the wires with my multimeter and had exactly 5.0 volts to the one wire and when I checked the ground back to the battery had 12.xx volts when i tested the signal wire it had 1.0 so all my wires checked out but I am still getting the code. I replaced the sensor once already so I guess it is possible I got a new sensor that is bad or is there a chance that maybe my plugin to it is bad?
View 13 RepliesWhen ever the car stops at a traffic light or stop sign, the air compressor cycles rapidly and the cool air turns warm. I was told the cooling fan was not coming on, but the other day the fan was cycling and the cool air stayed cool. My question is what controls the cooling fan operation? It seems the high pressure switch is working correctly and the fan motor is working. As long as I'm driving the air is cool.
View 2 RepliesThe car I drive is a 1997 Civic EX, and if I drive it for about five minutes, the temperature gauge starts creeping up real fast. It'll go to the red if I let it, and the only thing that brings it down is turning on the heater and fan, at full blast. which is pretty miserable in summer.
I looked under the hood and found the radiator fan isn't starting up, no matter how hot it gets. So I checked the fuse - it looked good. Replaced it anyway just to be sure. No change. Then I replaced the relay switch. that didn't change anything. And I also replaced the fan motor. Still nothing.
I have read elsewhere that I should check my thermostat, but I can't see what it has to do with the fan motor not starting? also that the Engine Coolant Temperature sensor might be faulty but it is my understanding that that controls fuel-air mixtures and I just don't know.
To start I have a 1991 super duty with a 7.3 in it. I replaced the evaporator, dryer and orifice tube. I added 4 cans of Freon and the a/c still blew warm so I added another can same result. I put one of the throw away gauges on the truck and it read empty so now I'm mad thinking it all leaked out only other option I could think of was to replace the condenser so went to break the lines to change it and Freon came spewing out so I tightened the lines back up and added another can of Freon still warm.
I got good gauges and hooked them up to high and low sides. High side was reading 100+ and low side was around 100 maybe a little lower. Oh yeah the compressor will come on and go right back off. So I let some of the Freon out and dropped the pressure down to 50 the high side was still a little below 100 so I let a little more out and now there is no Freon in the system again.
The lines never got cold and the dryer stayed warm the whole time. The first time I put Freon in before I started replacing stuff the dryer would get ice cold. My only thought is maybe the compressor is bad but I was told it was just replaced but Freon was never put in it. Oh and when I put the new parts in I replaced the orings in the compressor and put new oil in the compressor.
03 F350 7.3PSD... A/C blows cool on max only but does not blow real hard on high.
Blower motor is loud like it is blowing but just not coming out of vents. On reg A/C blows hot, actually blows hot on all other settings.
A/C compressor is on but blows hot through vents. I am thinking blend door and or something else. Thing is I am not sure what or where to look and how do I check?
My 2001 Expedition 5.4L sat for 2+ years and due to a new child, I put it back on the road late last fall. Last week, we had our 1st "must use AC" day and it didn't work.
I listened to see if the compressor was cycling and it never engaged. I picked up a gauge and r134a kit.
Outside temp was about 60F, I think my therm was showing 57F to be exact. When I checked the low side pressure with the engine off, the gauge reading was below 15. It made sense that the compressor wouldn't start at the pressure. I put in about a 1/2 can with the motor running A/C on max and it was showing 40, but still no compressor cycling. I then shut the motor down, let it sit for about 3 mins and restarted. This time, the compressor started to cycle, it was cycling quickly though, I'd say about every 3 seconds.
With the compressor cycling, the pressure would jump from 17 to 40. With the motor off, it would read 50. Still no cold air. I put in about 14oz of R134a.
I guess what I need to know is if I should I keep adding R134a until it stabilizes around 40, even when the compressor is cycling? Also, where should the static pressure be? It's sitting at 50 now. I've been told it should be around 80, but I'm thinking that might be dependent on outside temp.
BTW, I'm now thinking that the reason that I'm not getting cold air and the compressor keeps cycling is because I need to add a lot more R-134a. I think when the compressor starts and draws coolant, the low side pressure drops to low, causing the compressor to turn off. When the compressor cycles off, it sees the low side pressure at 40 and starts it up again causing the coolant draw and low side pressure to drop to low again. Am I right on this thought? It looks like I'll need to add another can to get the pressure to stay above 22 when the compressor is running.
One other thing... How much R-134a the system takes? I need to know because I have access to a vacuum.
My 2008 did a strange thing last night -- the ICE was short cycling at a stoplight. It would start and then immediately turn off, then immediately start again. It did this about 5 cycles. Cold night, coldish engine, heater on, recent repair from being rear-ended (5 days since got it back from body shop). 12V battery seems good (12.3 volts no load, car not in ready mode; 11.6V withheadlights on and car off). No purpose could be served by such short cycles. We turned off heater and then the light changed and we were rolling forward and engine short cycled one more time and then the behavior stopped for the rest of the trip.
View 7 RepliesI thought originally I had a leak so I tested with dual gauges I'm getting 85 psi on low and high side, which I believe is good. So I tried grounding the low sensor, then high sensor, then both, then both just pulled out and any combo possible. Still not engaging. Switched out the relay, checked fuses, still not engaging. Tried taking shim out of compressor still nothing. Jumped the relay and it will engage and air comes out cold. What should I check next?
View 8 RepliesCompressor seems to cycle to frequently, every 5 Seconds. Morning and Night the ac is freezing. During the Day it's cool but not cold.
Hooked up gauges and the high side is around 150 and the low side will go up to 45 and drop to 25 ( this is when the compressor engages and disengages.)
Ambient temp is just under 80. Where to go from here? 2003 Sport Trac...
I purchased an 89 F350 460 EFI factory air. The air worked fine for the first 6 hour on the drive home then It just stopped blowing cold. When I got home I saw the air gap on the clutch was quite wide so I took the washers out, still was too wide. I could only get the clutch to pull in if I tapped it in by hand and it only stayed in for a short time. This was all last fall.
Today I replaced the clutch, compressor and drier, took it in and had it charged. They replaced the pressure switch because the compressor cycle on and off. Even after replacing the switch it still cycles on and off and I still have no air! They removed some of the charge but still no air. The clutch pulls in and runs for 2 sec every 15- 20 seconds. I assume the reason it cycles is a high pressure. What should I be looking at now?????
I have a 2002 F250 on which the AC compressor clutch is not cycling: I have checked and added coolant so low pressure is correct (don't have high pressure gauge). I checked the clutch air gap and it is at 0.030 " as specified in another post. I replaced the low pressure AC cycling switch (on the evaporator/dryer). With the AC on, I disconnected the AC cutoff switch and the clutch disengages. This circuit has the correct (>10V) going to it. I am thinking it could have something to do with the AC relay.
When you switch the ATC to a setting other than AC or Max AC, the clutch disengages fine. I noticed this problem because the AC shuts off when it is really hot, after I have been driving for a long while, about 1 hour or more. If you shut off AC, wait a few minutes, then turn on it works fine.
He has a 96 explorer and his ac compressor clutch was cycling on and off. So he went and bought 2 20 ounce cans of 134a and proceeded to add it to the evaporator service port. Of course a lot of it sprayed out side of it as it did not fit well (duh). So he has no Idea how much he actually got in there out of the 30 or so ounces he dispensed. He is laughing at himself with me on this. He says hi ahead of time
I have access to good gauges and a reclaimer and vacuum as I work sometimes for a residential ac guru. So what to do? I was thinking the evaporator should be changed out but I want a second opinion. Then vacuum and add new 134.
1997 F150... What part of the control system tells the compressor to turn on and off? After not having air conditioning for a year or more I replaced the broken blend door.
When the a/c is turned on and the temp control switch is turned to cold, I get cold air. When I turn the temp control switch to warm, the air coming out of the vents is very warm. However when I do this I noticed that the compressor is still engaged. I think that at this point the compressor should disengage.
So again the a/c in old green gave out. it has been an ongoing battle over the past few years, but this time I took it to a good friend who has all the right tools as our level of frustration dealing with it has peaked.
We removed everything, and got it all "new" from oh-rye-lees. a new compressor was installed a few weeks back and it worked fine, but cycled very strangely. it would rapidly kick in and out, then just stay engaged. found out the condenser was plugged up and thought maybe that was causing it.
At any rate, it now has a new compressor, condenser, evaporator, drier, orifice tube, and low pressure switch. all the lines were flushed and checked.
it was vacuumed and checked, then charged with freon. The compressor is doing the exact same thing! it is cycling very strange. sometimes rapidly at higher rpm, and sometimes it works just fine. the a/c is working, but it is freezing up the drier, evaporator, and line all the way back to the compressor. vent temps are about 30.
The WOT relay and high pressure switch was replaced, and it did not make a difference. we are at a total loss.
We were told by another person that the clutch on the new compressor was too small and that was causing the issue. It measure 4.8" and we were told is is supposed to be 5.3". is there any truth to that? we just do not know what is causing this, but want to get it right as surely something will break if it stays this way.
So my Ac is not blowing cold at all. I can hear the compressor cycling. I filled the sys with freon. Still not cold I am pretty sure I have a leak but wouldn't it still blow cold? What do I need to check to fix this? The temps are getting in the upper 90's and 100 s I need Ac bad...
View 14 RepliesI got a 2001 f150 leaking freon on the back of the compressor, can't afford to fix this summer. When I add freon should I get the freon with oil in to get oil in the system or just add regular can of freon, it took about 6 weeks before I need to add any.
View 7 Replies