Ford A/C :: 1997 E350 - Signs Of Impending Compressor Failure
May 22, 2016
I'm in the process of replacing the engine in my 97 E-350 Chateau 6.8 v10. The a/c system was in need of attention before my engine exploded at 143,000 miles. The a/c system at that time was showing signs of impending compressor failure. Many parts of my a/c system were removed to facilitate engine swap so it is completely evacuated. I'm replacing the compressor, accumulator, both expansion valves and flushing the rest of the components outside of the vehicle.
I have purchased all the replacement part but have questions on the proper sequences of events replacing the PAG 46 into the system. My a/c system calls for 13oz of oil and 64oz coolant and I did not measure any oil that was lost during removal. I have access to a vacuum pump and a/c gauges. I have been searching the internet yet haven't found a site that deals specifically with my circumstances. I'm eager to learn.
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Troubleshooting the not working A/C in my 1997 Ford E350 Motorhome Chassis.
1. Compressor clutch spins freely
2. Started vehicle and turned on A/C, clutch not engaging
3. Unplugged Compressor clutch plug, and engine would turn over but not start
4. Replugged, started engine (normal), and when I unplugged the compressor clutch plug, the engine immediately cut-out.
Is this normal? I was planning to check if I had 12v at the compressor plug. Did I miss something? It is almost as if the clutch is wired into the ignition circuit...
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I have a 2002 f150 5.4 4x4 with 151,000 miles. I am using a lot of oil but its not leaking out. What should I do to fix problem.
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95 Bronc with a compressor failure. It sat up about a year and when i put it back on the road the AC Clutch failed so I replaced it in the hopes that maybe it was just a clutch. With the new clutch is made progressively louder racket so I stopped using it until the other day when the new clutch failed (I briefly turned it on).
I think it is time to replace the compressor. In researching the compressors I noticed that there are varied makes so I have a question as to which brand compressor to buy. Here are my options:
O'Reilly - Motorcraft - Assume FS10 - 283.99
Autozone - Ready Aire - FS10 - 235.99
Autozone - Compressor Works - FS10 - 179.99
Autozone - Compressor Works - SD709 - 247.99
Autozone - Denso - FS10 - 259.99
NAPA - Visteon - FS10 - 301.00
NAPA - (unknown) - SD709 - 409.00
ACKITS - Unicla - FS10 - 236.35
Do I get the FS10 or the SD709 (I assume Super Duty)? How can I identify which compressor my Bronc came with from the factory (FS10 or SD709)? I live in Texas so strong cooling is imperative. Should I even consider buying a remanufactured compressor (the ones listed above are all new)?
I typically stay away from getting parts from Autozone because I have found the parts that they sell to generally be of poor quality.
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1997 Ford Econoline HD Club Wagon E350 2wd 250k 6.8l V-10 Factory front and rear air, rear evap is there but all other components were removed from previous owner to use as a work van.
Air works great other than at idle it warms up some, not a real big issue at the moment, and also has a small vac leak somewhere as under heavy throttle or towing any bog will change vents to defrost and floor. not a big deal at the moment.
My issue right now is I was driving yesterday down the interstate air on full blast freezing me real good (awesome at speed on these 100 degree days in NC) and all of a sudden ambient air, no more awesomeness.
I pulled over to take a quick look but was way too hot to sit on the side of the interstate and look further, got the ole girl home and looked at it today.
Compressor kicks on as it should, but all the lines stay the same no condensation, blend door is moving to adjust from any vents the control tells it to.
My question is if it was low on freon the compressor wouldnt kick on at all, and if its up and cycling correctly why aren't the lines becoming cold? the temp door is also working as with the van warm the air will blow hot then when i switch it back to cold it gets cool just not cold, temp of air around blower.
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I just purchased an 97 E350 (15 Passenger) and I notice that the two rear heater lines (along the driver side) are rotted and is showing sign of minor leakage. Can I simply replace them with rubber heater hoses or do I need to get the factory heater lines?
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I am just about committed to purchasing a 1997 Ford E350 extended cargo van with the 5.4. The transmission shifts through all the gears nice and firm (reverse also works). The only issue with the van is the column selector lever is very hard to move between the entire range of PRND21. It also does not "click" into the selected positions, you have to just line up the pointer to the desired gear selection.
Is this a complete deal breaker (internal transmission issue/replacement necessary) or, is it something relatively simple (such as a worn selector cable). The owner did admit the van has been sitting for sometime. It has 134,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2007 BMW 328xi with only 46000 miles. About three weeks ago, I heard some pumping noise under the hood so I drove the car to a repair shop for estimation. I was told that the AC compressor stopped working. When I drove out of the repair shop about 5 miles, the car stopped running and was towed back to that repair store. After the new AC compressor was installed, the car still could not be started. It was then towed to dealership. Now I was told that the AC compressor failure caused engine chain problem, to fix it. Does it make sense? How AC problem can cause engine problem?
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My 97 E350/460ci occasionally sets trouble code 4011. It clears every time I check it with my code reader. Something about insufficient secondary air injection. The dealer ship couldn't duplicate/diagnose the problem. Maybe something with the air injection solenoids.
Otherwise, it runs fine. I did notice on the passenger side of the engine compartment a large black metal filter looking thingie with about a 3/4" outlet that doesn't have any hose on it or seem to go anywhere else. Once in a while when you start it i hear a sort of soft popping noise for a few seconds that I would associate with the air pump.
Also can't get the ABS light to go away. It's out when you start it but as soon as you get going it comes on. I flushed the fluid and replaced the rear sensor to no avail. Also tried to flush out the front tone wheels and sensors.
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My 97 e350 club wagon is doing something weird. Front AC wont go to Max Air, the blend door wont function. Can hear vacuum trying to work. Rear Unit is on Heat even though Front is on AC and blows hot air out the rear floor vents. Hit some high water going too fast about a year ago. Next day, this started happening. Rigged up blend door so air flows through vents.
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Just got a weird chemical smell on my way back from lunch and the a/c stopped working. Pulled up to the garage and there was a smell of burning under the hood, plus a fairly loud hum, and also these weird noises that sounded like electrical discharges from underneath.
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Drove a few miles and both front brakes got hot. The driving was mild failry flat road under 30 mph and the steel rims were hot to the touch around the lugs on both sides pretty evenly.
The van is new to me and I've driven maybe 20 miles so far. The pads are about new, the rotors look fine. Already I've changed all the COPS and plugs, changed the trans oil and filter and installed a drain plug, chaned the engine oil and filter, changed the air filter, and rear drums are on order. So it would be nice to be done soon!
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So today, I planned on switching the belt, idler pulley and tensioner since at least two of them are making noises. After taking all of the stuff off, belt, idler pulley and tensioner... and since I always compare parts I buy to parts that were in, making sure they are identical and I didn't order the wrong one. So first up I checked my tensioner and the position of them or angles are different, completely different.
So Google it to view a few diagrams and bang! it hits me... the one I took out from my F150 is for a non-AC... so back into the truck and I'm looking. Didn't have to go far when I realized that my AC compressor is missing!!!!
I keep looking around and I see that yes, I did have AC in it before I got it; because the guts are there but sliced! Great, so the job went from easy and easy I mean buy compressor and install; but now since the guts were cut, the PO sliced the thing out simply put.
1.) What are the bolt sizes that hold the compressor in place?
2.) Is there a wire connector on the compressor? or no?
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All instruments quit working at once on my 97 F-150 - speed, tach, fuel, volts, temp, odo, trip odo, oil. All idiot lights have failed except battery and seat belt. Indication for Overdrive is not working.
I have checked all other equipment and can find nothing else that is not working. I have checked the 50 A fuses (20 and 21) under the hood and also the 5 A fuse (2) under the dashboard, all are ok. Fuse 18 is also good, and the dashboard illumination is working. All fuses checked visually and with a meter. The annoying chimes are all working. The hi-lo beam indication, auto down feature for the drivers side window, and all features associated with wipers are working.
Checked for OBDII codes, passed with no codes listed, although the idiot light is not working. I have been searched this site fand read many posts. I think I saw a thread somewhere that stated that this was probably a GEM problem....
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My AC compressor failed so I replaced it.
I put in 1 can of R134, and I don't see the compressor cycling.
How do I remove the connector to the accumulator so I can jump it and force the AC to run.
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I have a 01 f150 4.2L and a while ago the ac compressor clutch broke. I didn't catch it in time and the stress it caused on the belt broke the power steering pump pulley. So I replaced the steering pump and pulley and the compressor the accumulator/dryer and the office tube put the 134a back in and everything worked fine. three months later ac stopped working. I figured the condenser was bad so i replaced it. Charged it up still no cold ac. so i thought maybe the manifold that goes on the compressor was clogged so i replaced it. While I did that i said to myself well i should tear out the dash and replace the evap as well. so just about everything has been replaced on the ac system.
Aside from the cycle switch and the high side switch witch from my test both seem to be working. now here is the thing. the tube witch holds the office gets ice cold then goes to the evap but the suction line coming from the evap doesn't get cold and the ac blows warm air. this very problem is what convinced me that the evap was clogged and needed to be changed witch is why i undertook the task of tearing the dash out. in all it took 14 hours to do the whole job. now for the pressures that i get from the ac manifold low side goes 40 down to 20 ..... this is normal. high side is a little high. I charge it to 125 still no cold air. so i dump a little more 134 in. at 90 degrees high side pressure should be around 200ish i get it there still no cold air. I have just about replaced everything i can think of.
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My air conditioning compressor is rattling and grinding. I am trying to determine if I need a whole new unit or just a clutch assy. I can say this, when running it's rattling, but when the clutch engages, it clears up.
Would I be right in assessing it's the clutch? 1998 250 5.4 .....
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4.6L engine.......Well my A/C isn't working I just found out. The compressor is not kicking on. I checked the charge with my gauges and it is good so I don't think the low limit switch tripped, but I don't have a manual or anything and was wondering which number relay and fuse goes to the A/C compressor.
I also need to know which fuse goes to the power mirrors as well. I downloaded a manual from the ford fleet site, but honestly I haven't gotten around to looking at it. Not home.
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I have a 2001 ford f150 with a 4.6 liter v8, my ac compressor is completely seized up, I can't afford to replace the ac right now. So I would like to just get a shorter serpentine belt to bypass the ac for now, need to get a measurement on the shorter belt for my engine? and the proper way to re route the belt without the ac?
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I got a 2001 f150 leaking freon on the back of the compressor, can't afford to fix this summer. When I add freon should I get the freon with oil in to get oil in the system or just add regular can of freon, it took about 6 weeks before I need to add any.
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Sunday afternoon I noticed my 97 F-150 4.2 5-Speed manual had a higher idle. When the AC compressor kicks in, the motor revs up higher than normal for about 4 secs then comes down a little. If you barely press the accelerator, I mean just gently touch it, the motor revs up for 4 secs. Dont have a tach, but just idling in neutral, is about 150 rpms more, and when AC compressor kicks in, rpms jump about 300 rpms i assume. Maybe vacuum, IAC??? Plugs, wires, and normal tune up done about 2400 miles ago.
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