I just purchased an 97 E350 (15 Passenger) and I notice that the two rear heater lines (along the driver side) are rotted and is showing sign of minor leakage. Can I simply replace them with rubber heater hoses or do I need to get the factory heater lines?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 Ex with the 7.3. There is a leak in the rear coolant line just in front of the rear right tire. Is there any way to bypass the rear heater under the hood?
View 1 RepliesOn my 2003 Excursion 7.3L, I notticed I'm leaking what I think is coolant from the passenger side rear hard line by the front spring hanger. I haven't pealed the plastic loom away yet, but I did see the loom is chaffed near the spring hanger. What lines are the ones that carry coolant, and can I just cut the hard lines and replace with a section of rubber hose?
View 3 RepliesSo a dead thermostat forced me to drain the coolant in my E350 7.3L. I noticed the previous owner had green coolant in the van so I decided to do a flush and put in the right coolant. I used Shell Rotella ELC. Well, I noticed after coming home the other day that the van was leaking coolant, upon inspection I noticed its now leaking from the water pump, then today the drain valve sprang a leak! What the HECK is going on!? Is it possible that the seals were shocked when I changed the coolant? Not looking forward to doing a water pump replacement on an E350... sure is crammed under the hood.
View 9 RepliesGot F-150 4.6 cooling system leak on the heater line (farthest back line) coming out of the block. Fitting looks to be steel. How does it attach/ do I need to remove the Intake to replace?
View 5 RepliesI am talking about those two hoses going into the firewall by my Blower Motor assembly that may be leaking and wanted to know if i can bypass or plug up these two hoses, since i no longer have ARA A/C and heater.
1986 140 CID GAS Ford Ranger 2.3, 5-speed manual
After market ARA A/C - No longer working
Blower motor heating coil element caught on fire - heater no longer working either.
Most days, before I drive somewhere, even just a few miles or less, I have to put in a little coolant, about one or two cups, So I know there is a leak coming from somewhere, it's just not visible, but strangely dripping from my right side front fender wall, just below the air filter, seems strange. Did not see any tiny leaks from my radiator.
What I have done was to check hoses from the radiator to the engine and noticed no leaks. Is there anything else I could do without a major repair? I even used that stop leak a while ago, but that didn't work.
A few days later.. Ok, when I got home today, I noticed antifreeze dripping from that shield over the right side passengers wheel well. I crawled underneath and on the other side of the tire, and did not see anything as the source. I would think that it would be in the area of the radiator, either upper or lower hoses, or that short hose to the block near the water pump. I will check the heater core hoses going from engine area into Firewall again. But I did not see anything leaking from that right side firewall. I have an aftermarket ARA AC, bit that hasn't worked for years.
If the leak is not coming from the head gasket, upper or lower radiator hoses, or those two hoses going into the firewall, where else could it be coning from? Very strange it's not anywhere near the radiator or engine, but on the right side passenger's side, above the tires wheel well. Some have said it has to be from either those two heater core water hoses going into the firewall.
I have neither a working air conditioner (after marker ARA) or a working heater (leaves found their way from the outside hood vents into the Blower motor and EVAP core and the heating element caught some leaves on fire and burned mostly everything inside this box. I have not replaced that, nor would I at this point,but just want to fix the leak)
A friend suggested that I could just BYPASS the water hoses going into the firewall....is this plausible? Do I do next to the inlet/outlet hoses bt the water pump. or somewhere else?
02 F150, 5.4 gas motor, about 338k miles. Bought this truck well used so I would have a truck when I needed one. Someone has removed the heater control valve. I've got a new one, but there is a port on the top for a vacuum line, but where this line plugs into.
View 1 RepliesBought my Ranger brand new, and I try to maintain it well. Most of the 90,000 miles are highway. Anyway, the OEM coolant was supposed to be good for 100K miles, but since I hadn't done anything in 89K, i have a lengthy commute and the coolant was getting discolored, I figured that no harm would come in having a drain/refill. This was approx. The heat worked flawlessly. Fast forward two weeks, and my local shop performed an oil change (not the quick lube that did the coolant replacement). I was informed of three things:
1) my coolant was low,
2) my heater control valve was leaking (which I was shown), and
3) when hoisted I was shown that a slight residue of coolant -- not necessarily fresh -- was on my water pump.
I was told that 'down the road sometime a water pump could be in my future'. Again, the heat worked flawlessly, and I didn't want to be out-and-about in winter and run out of coolant. So, the shop replaced my heater control valve and topped off the coolant (approx. 1/2 - 1 gallon). Heat worked flawlessly. The last couple days, I noticed two things.
First, heat trickles out on low and medium setting, and second, it takes a long time to warm the vehicle. So, my limited research tells me two things. If coolant is present, and I have heat (of some sort), then, the water pump and heater core are probably fine. Diagnosis says to check the thermostat first, correct?
Transmission oil cooler line, lower one, is leaking. I think to use pvf, black ones, brake line instead of new transmission oil cooler line. I did replaced upper one with new transmission oil cooler line before a few years and it is rusty already as those line are only zinc plated as opposed to plastified brake lines.
View 12 RepliesSo I finally got my truck running on sunday and I come home after work yesterday and my driveway is covered in coolant. the line that goes to the rear had split in the middle and also in the rear?!? Where to get a replacement. I was thinking about just cutting out the messed up section and hose clamping some heater hose in its place?
View 12 Replies1999 F150 has rusted and leaking steel brake lines. I need to replace all of them but do not know if you have to fabricate them or can you buy the complete kit. I am also confused with the flared end. Have not worked with that type of flare. If they need to be purchased where is the best place to buy them ?
View 9 RepliesI have 2002 F150 5.4L gas 4X4 Lariat FX4. Last winter when it got to -30C here in Manitoba one of the lines near the power steering cooler began to leak. I had just bought this truck and upon investigating found that the original line had been replaced and reattached with hose clamps. I had this "farmer fix" redone but then this winter when it hit -30C it blew apart. Obviously something happened to this line before I got it, so I am curious if there is an issue with these power steering cooler lines when it gets really cold. Should I just get factory lines installed and hope for the best?
View 3 RepliesMy 97 e350 club wagon is doing something weird. Front AC wont go to Max Air, the blend door wont function. Can hear vacuum trying to work. Rear Unit is on Heat even though Front is on AC and blows hot air out the rear floor vents. Hit some high water going too fast about a year ago. Next day, this started happening. Rigged up blend door so air flows through vents.
View 2 RepliesThis is something to check, I found the vent line pinched closed on my 2000 F350 when I was trying to find out why it was leaking. When I was under my 2013 installing the hitch I checked it and found the same problem. The clip doesn't pinch it closed right away but it will happen if you don't move the clip.
View 8 RepliesThe leak looked like it was coming from a heater hose. The individual I bought it from said he fixed it and it wasn't leaking the day I bought it. Upon driving it home...cranked the heat up and windows fogged, switched to defog with no luck. Added some coolant and still the same thing and leak began again.
It smells like antifreeze inside and fog has oily feeling when wiping it off the window. Got in on the lift and no luck seeing where it was leaking from, even with it running. My previous experience with bad heater cores is that it leaks on the inside and smells like coolant... is it leaking on the outside or is it something else?
It's NOT overheating or blowing any kind of smoke. Temp gauge read normal! It's a 4.3L, 1994 Caprice LS .....
I am a proud owner of '97 Grand Prix GTP, it has always been a great car with really low maintenance for me. A few days ago I noticed a mild fuel smell and I checked the gas cap, the external fuel filter, etc... Then I lifted the hood and I saw that one of the two fuel lines that run between the firewall and the brake fluid reservoir had a seepage leak in front of the factory loom that secures both lines before going over the supercharger and on to the fuel rail. A fuel leak needs to be repaired immediately, so this is where I am so far.
I noticed that the leaking fuel line is actual a rubber/plastic fuel hose that is covered by a plastic heat proof cover that protects the hose. It runs from the firewall to the fuel rail along side another fuel line of the same size (a supply & return line I believe). Just before going over the supercharger they both have quick connect metal ends that meet two metal fuel lines that end up at the fuel rail. My current issue is that this plastic/rubber hose section of fuel line is discontinued and no longer available to order according to my local GM parts dealer. The way I see it, hunting down this part can be Plan A and Plan B can be duplicating this hose by making it with high pressure fuel injection hoses and the appropriate quick connect fittings.
The problem started when his heater core was leaking coolant and it dripped all the way down to his original ECU. Car stopped working. Then he went to a Hyundai dealer to fix the problem but they said he had to buy a brand new one. First ECU didn't work. Returned it and bought one more expensive. Dad told me it worked but he didn't by pass the heater core so coolant dripped again. So now I'm on my third ECU but it doesn't work. I've read online that some older cars have plug-and-play type of ECUs that aren't restricted to the VINs. His car is a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS FWD 4dr 3.5L.
View 5 RepliesI have a leak in my rear wiper fluid line on my GTI. When I use the rear washer, I get a pool of fluid in the driver side taillight and under the rear seats. I'm getting some fluid in the rear driver side headliner as well so the break must be there. First step is to pull the headliner.
View 4 RepliesWhen I lost the rear brakes due to a rusted line, naturally the ABS light came on. Will it automatically reset when everything is repaired and working or is there something else that needs to be done?
View 2 RepliesHow does it come off. I wasn't able to turn the axle vent without turning the block on axle for the brake lines.
I would like to remove the brake system from my current axle without breaking any lines open, then putting a new axle in and put the brake system on the truck to the new rear axle.
Okay, the vehicle is a 1988 E250 ClubWagon 7.3 IDI diesel with front and rear AC/heat. I have 3 questions for you:
1. I found that the rear heater core is getting coolant flow constantly which is making my rear AC blow 75* air. These models don't have a blend door in the back, they appear to have a valve that is only allows coolant flow to the rear heater core when the heat is turned on. Problem is that I can't seem to find where this valve is located on the van or what it is called to locate it at a parts store. Where on my van this valve is located?
2. My rear blower only functions on High. I know there is a resistor set up in the rear that controls the blower speed. Before I just replace this, is there a way that I can test it?
3. Is it possible that the Resistor setup for the rear fan speed would also be causing the rear coolant flow valve to not work? I know it's a long shot, but does the valve signal flow through it when the AC is on to tell the coolant valve to shut?