My 97 e350 club wagon is doing something weird. Front AC wont go to Max Air, the blend door wont function. Can hear vacuum trying to work. Rear Unit is on Heat even though Front is on AC and blows hot air out the rear floor vents. Hit some high water going too fast about a year ago. Next day, this started happening. Rigged up blend door so air flows through vents.
View 2 Replies1998 F150 XLT 4.6l automatic,,,
Drove the truck on a trip the other day, about 650 miles with a loaded 5x8 trailer in tow. A/C started acting weird. When the truck was on level ground, or going down hill, the A/C was fine. Cold air coming out the correct dash vents. As soon as I started up hill, or put the truck under strain of acceleration, the A/C would stop blowing out the dash vents and would start coming out the floor or defrost vents, or just not come out anywhere.
When I turned the A/C off and just used the vent setting, it would do the same thing with the fresh air. I guessing this has something to do with my vacuum lines, somewhere. What I should be looking for and where?
What is happening is that air will stop blowing through the vents randomly. We will be trucking a long with either a/c or heater on and all of the suddon it will stop blowing. I know the blower is on because I can toggle between vent and defrost. It will blow out of the defrost but will not through the vents. It can be anywhere from 1 to 10 minutes and all the sudden it will start blowing through the vents once again. It just doesn't blow through the vents. This is a 1992 E-350 with a 460 in it.
View 3 RepliesStarted the other day. Seems like the blend door that channels air to the dash vents is opening and closing as it feels like it. Sometimes open for awhile, sometimes closed. The defrost vents keep blowing cold and normal while doing this.
View 9 Repliesgot in the truck tonight and she is blowing nothing but cold out the drivers side but the passenger side works as advertised for temp settings. I have been trying to see if there is a self test mode like the earlier year trucks have to see if there is a code. She is dual zone climate/digital so its an EATC if I am not mistaken. I have tried power cycle, pulled and re-installed climate fuse after inspecting. Tried some of the earlier year self test button combinations to no avail. I did notice if I hit defrost a few times after hitting the power and defrost that the temps would go all 00 but I don't know if that is what I am looking for. I probably know my answer which includes tearing out the dash but how to proceed. Bought her with an aftermarket power train warranty so electronics are off the table for warranty. I know the stealership will charge out the rear to fix it too. All signs so far point to a blend door which is not good at all.
View 14 RepliesDad has a 97 F150 with some heater issues. He put a new potentiometer in and it didn't work. We he turns the dial to cold, it still blows hot air. Defrost =hot, vent=hot, a/c=warm etc.....
The dealership told him that the blend door might be stuck. My question is, how hard is this to fix? Is it something that I can just stop by after work and quickly fix. What is involved in fixing this and where it is?
Whenever my A/C is turned on, it blows nice cold air. As long as the blower is on "1", "2", and sometimes ", it blows cold air. If I turn it to "4" I can hear a small "thud" behind the dash. It sounds like the blend door is shutting. All my functions work like they should. I think the actuator is goin out and isn't pushing the door all the way closed, and when I turn it to "4" it pushes it te other way.
View 5 RepliesMy actuator/motor doesn't have the screws that hold it on. It's just clipped down. Can I just pry it up & off with out it breaking the clips that hold it down? It's a 97 Ranger.
View 2 RepliesOver the last few days I have read several threads about heaters not working and blend door replacement. My '02 4.6 F-150 has 250k+ miles and I've always done regular maintenance on it. With the cold front moving in I've noticed that the heater is not blowing hot air. I flushed the radiator and flushed the heater core several times to make sure the core was not clogged. I also replaced the upper radiator hose because of the "crunchy" sound when squeezed. I also replaced the thermostat. Still, the heater is not blowing hot. I assume like many others that the blend door needs to be replaced. My question is do I need to replace the door only or the door and the motor (actuator)? I guess I need to test the motor before buying a new one. I saw a video where you remove all the components on the transmission hump and can actually stick you finger in the motor opening to see if the shaft has come apart.
View 8 RepliesThe town car will not switch its blower position from dash down to the vents or the floor. AC/Heat both work and the speed is still adjustable.
View 2 RepliesMy 2001 E350 van's factory rear A/C is not working. Front A/C and heat is fine. Regardless of front control position for rear, heater stays on all the time unless I turn it off with the rear control. No air is blowing from the rear A/C vents, only from the rear heater vent. This isn't a big problem right now, but will soon be an issue. I use this van for my sales route, carrying a lot of temperature sensitive snack products. I don't have an owners manual, and the Haynes manual has no info at all regarding the rear A/C.
View 14 RepliesI just purchased an 97 E350 (15 Passenger) and I notice that the two rear heater lines (along the driver side) are rotted and is showing sign of minor leakage. Can I simply replace them with rubber heater hoses or do I need to get the factory heater lines?
View 6 RepliesMy A/C is blowing cold but only thru the defrost vents. First it was blowing normally from the dash but during acceleration or under load, the a/c would randomly blow from any vent, from the floor, dash, defrost. Now that stopped and it only blows from the defrost vents above the dash-board.
1997 F-150 XLT, 4.2 Liter, V6, manual transmission.
2001 F150 5.4 4wd - AC not working but when I turn the temperature dial to the blue side and turn on the fan, super hot air comes out of the vents or wherever I direct the fan to blow (Floor, defrost, etc) I know it shouldn't blow ice cold especially since my AC doesn't work but.....shouldn't I feel a temp change coming from the vents when I move temp dial from the red area to the blue? It's max heat wherever I have it set.
View 6 RepliesIs there anything I can do to have the rear doors unlock using the keyless entry function? I can only unlock the driver door as of now. Once that is open, I still need to use the unlock button on the keyfolb to unlock the rear door.
The keyless entry function does lock the doors when the small black button is pushed on the rear doors?
After a recent front brake caliper replacement, the brakes work great except that when moderate pressure is continually applied to the brake pedal, the pedal goes all the way to the floor. While driving down the road, when the brake pedal is depressed, the brakes engage right where you expect them to, and the van stops just fine, even if the stop is extreme. There is no air in the brake lines. The front calipers have been replaced twice, the back brake cylinders replaced, the master cylinder replaced, the RABS valve replaced, all by a certified shop trying to address this issue.
I spoke with the service manager at a local Ford dealer in Seattle and he was aware of the problem and said that there is no solution. He said the brakes will work fine. He couldn't explain to me however, why this happens. If the van is not running, the brake pedal holds firm, so I assume the problem has something to do with either the ABS system or the power assist, but I can't say for sure. I can live with this since the van stops great. What is mechanically going on that allows the brake pedal to go to the floor even though the brakes are fully engaged after the pedal is depressed say a third to a half way down to the floor.
The ac on my 97 chevy k1500 siverado works for about an hour then for no reason the air stops blowing thru the dash vents. The motor continues to run but will not blow thru the vents. At the same time my blower motor will slow down to the lower speed position even when I have it on high. But, if I shout off the ac for a view moments the air will start to come back up to speed and will begin to blow thru the dash vents again. I have replace all the blend doors excep the one for the cab recirculation. Replace the motor relay swith, the motor thermostat, and the dash mounted control module. The heater system seems to work fine.
View 10 RepliesSo a recent problem on my 2012 sf.. the front vents blow hot and the rear blows cold.?
View 13 RepliesWhat is the difference between :
Part # XF2H-19E616-FA and
Part # YL5Z-19E616-AA?
The middle numbers are the same. And they look the same? the first one is mine. Blend door actuator out of a 2000 ford windstar. Will another part # work? If the connection is the same?
Went into town earlier and the a/c was not blowing out the 2 passenger side vents. Could switch to defrost and it would blow correctly. The rear is working as well. The drivers side vents blow good and if you cover those with your hands to block them off its like it forces air to blow out the passenger vents. Could this be a blend door issue?
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 EB Expedition 5.4 with EATC climate control. I replaced the heater core that had been leaking severely. When I got the dash back on I adjusted the controls with the engine running while watching the blend door actuator under the dash. it moved but not as much as I thought it should. So I drilled an "inspection" hole behind the glove box and into the plenum cover. I watched the blend door open and close when the hot/cold buttons were adjusted, but the movement was intermittent.
I'd checked the blend door for cracks prior to installing the heater core and found none. I left things alone for a day while I drove as normal. When I had time to work on it again, the actuator quit working. I figured it was damaged from the coolant leaking into the cab so I decided to replace it. It was indeed full of coolant. I bought a Dorman actuator (part #604-216) and plugged it into the wiring harness to test it before installing it. I adjusted the controls with the ignition in the "run" position and nothing happened. I'm at a loss as to what could be the problem. I've searched for this problem, but the only threads I find are incomplete or deal with the "manual" controls. I checked all my fuses and they are all good.
My questions are:
Could I have bought the wrong actuator? Would the harness fit the "manual" actuator? The part number was identified as being for the main blend door for "automatic" controls. Is there a possibility the EATC head unit is bad? It still sends air to the panel, floor and defrost when adjusted.
How do I test the voltage at the connector? I just bought a multimeter but I'm not sure which wires in the harness deliver power to the actuator. I know there are a lot of people on this site who've gone through the heater core/blend door ordeal and have lived to tell about it. What I should do next.