Ford A/C :: 1997 E350 - Air Works Great Other Than At Idle It Warms Up Some
Jul 11, 2015
1997 Ford Econoline HD Club Wagon E350 2wd 250k 6.8l V-10 Factory front and rear air, rear evap is there but all other components were removed from previous owner to use as a work van.
Air works great other than at idle it warms up some, not a real big issue at the moment, and also has a small vac leak somewhere as under heavy throttle or towing any bog will change vents to defrost and floor. not a big deal at the moment.
My issue right now is I was driving yesterday down the interstate air on full blast freezing me real good (awesome at speed on these 100 degree days in NC) and all of a sudden ambient air, no more awesomeness.
I pulled over to take a quick look but was way too hot to sit on the side of the interstate and look further, got the ole girl home and looked at it today.
Compressor kicks on as it should, but all the lines stay the same no condensation, blend door is moving to adjust from any vents the control tells it to.
My question is if it was low on freon the compressor wouldnt kick on at all, and if its up and cycling correctly why aren't the lines becoming cold? the temp door is also working as with the van warm the air will blow hot then when i switch it back to cold it gets cool just not cold, temp of air around blower.
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I had some more time to mess around with my truck. The 4r100 shifts great until the truck warms up. After about 10 to 15 minutes of driving it starts. With the gear selector in D and under acceleration it will shift at about 2k rpm's and will be in third gear by 25mph. If I climb to higher speeds it will only shift out of O/D when I get my foot into it. It will not downshift into any gears until I am almost completely stopped. It will downshift and hold gears great if I use the column to shift. I'm stumped. No CEL or flashing O/D light.
Things I have checked:
TPS
VSS
All connections to the transmission
Set tune back to stock
Transmission fluid & level
Will the transmission still store codes even if the O/D light has never flashed?
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My 2008 Dodge Caravan SXT is having A/C problems. The back air works great, all the time...however, the front air randomly turns off and on. It doesn't matter what speed I'm going, what speed the knob is turned to (low vs. high), it just stops blowing. When I'm driving at a faster speed I can feel the cold air barely coming through the vents, but doesn't change when I move the knob. All along, the back A/C works perfectly. I've looked online and found a lot of things about the resistor, blower motor, fuse and WIN module. How I can narrow it down without paying the dealership an arm and a leg to fix things that might not even be the issue?
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I have a 2005 Toyota Prius and the AC seems to work when the car is not warmed up. After about 5 to 10 minutes of driving the vehicle it does not seem to want to blow cold air. Obviously it works better in the morning then the afternoon but the AC seems to work intermittently. This may be electrical problem?
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I have a 2007 Sonata. It is freezing outside now, and when I first get into my car the wiper fluid comes out just fine, but after my car warms up it does not come out at all. All other discussions I have found apply to the opposite, and no doubt more common, situation of ice buildup in the lines and then thawing when the car warms up. Is there something that could be expanding when the car gets hot and pinching the line? I do not have this problem in the summer.
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2000 F150 4.6L Romeo 2WD. Engine cranks great. Fuel pump working. Changed fuel filter. Will not start. No codes. Fixed A/C day before yesterday, only had air coming out defroster, disintegrated vacuum hose at firewall. Ran errands yesterday, no problems whatsoever. Get in truck today to go to work and no start at all, engine turns over fine. What next?
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I just added 2 used 08 E350s to the fleet both about 180k on em and 1 has a little issue with oil temp and pressure. Driving ect is 222 and oil temp hits 240 then oil gauge drops to 0 and oil light comes on. I know the cooler is junk, but I am gonna pull the lp pump off and see what I find. I have a chance to fix this, or should I just order the 13k box with a reman in it.
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Since we bought this car, it has had an issue where, after it warms up, it begins making a noise which I've seen described as "moosing" on the internet. In addition to the sound, the idle will decrease and will sometimes kill the engine.
I've seen this attributed to the IAC, and so I replaced it (twice). I have tested the IAC connections as well, and all is good. I have even run the car without the IAC plugged in, to try to reset the computer, to no avail. I feel like I have eliminated the IAC from being the problem (but maybe not.)
I have replaced the PCV valve.
I have replaced the water temp sensor and the thermostat (someone suggested this might affect the computer and rpms...)
I have cleaned the MAF and tested it per the Chilton's manual. (tested fine)
I suspect that because of the idle and the engine seeming to be choking out when it dies, that there is a vacuum issue somewhere. I just don't know where to start with this.
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My 99 7.3 has had a vibration / shake in cab as you rev up while in park in neutral around 1000 RPM -1700 mostly. Around 1500-1600 is the worst. At idle it seems fine and what you would expect from a 7.3 but then as you give it higher idle, it starts shaking cab and you can physically see seats start shaking and it all feels rough. It also translates to a vibration while driving in those RPMS down the road... It has new injectors, transmission/ torque converter, HPOP, exhaust and a whole lot more.......
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I'm in the process of replacing the engine in my 97 E-350 Chateau 6.8 v10. The a/c system was in need of attention before my engine exploded at 143,000 miles. The a/c system at that time was showing signs of impending compressor failure. Many parts of my a/c system were removed to facilitate engine swap so it is completely evacuated. I'm replacing the compressor, accumulator, both expansion valves and flushing the rest of the components outside of the vehicle.
I have purchased all the replacement part but have questions on the proper sequences of events replacing the PAG 46 into the system. My a/c system calls for 13oz of oil and 64oz coolant and I did not measure any oil that was lost during removal. I have access to a vacuum pump and a/c gauges. I have been searching the internet yet haven't found a site that deals specifically with my circumstances. I'm eager to learn.
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I just purchased an 97 E350 (15 Passenger) and I notice that the two rear heater lines (along the driver side) are rotted and is showing sign of minor leakage. Can I simply replace them with rubber heater hoses or do I need to get the factory heater lines?
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Troubleshooting the not working A/C in my 1997 Ford E350 Motorhome Chassis.
1. Compressor clutch spins freely
2. Started vehicle and turned on A/C, clutch not engaging
3. Unplugged Compressor clutch plug, and engine would turn over but not start
4. Replugged, started engine (normal), and when I unplugged the compressor clutch plug, the engine immediately cut-out.
Is this normal? I was planning to check if I had 12v at the compressor plug. Did I miss something? It is almost as if the clutch is wired into the ignition circuit...
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I am just about committed to purchasing a 1997 Ford E350 extended cargo van with the 5.4. The transmission shifts through all the gears nice and firm (reverse also works). The only issue with the van is the column selector lever is very hard to move between the entire range of PRND21. It also does not "click" into the selected positions, you have to just line up the pointer to the desired gear selection.
Is this a complete deal breaker (internal transmission issue/replacement necessary) or, is it something relatively simple (such as a worn selector cable). The owner did admit the van has been sitting for sometime. It has 134,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2003 f150 4.2 v8. and i have a squeaky belt I am almost positive its the belt i went to change it today but being sick,cold (NY), getting dark having just worked 10 hrs and changing oil it was not going well.
The reason I think its the belt it does not squeak when its really cold out but once it warms up a little its back so I am thinking when it gets warm it stretches out a little and when its cold it shrinks up or am I just crazy..
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I got a new ipr an looking in the oil pump end there's a small spring with a screw n the middle. Is this a pressure adjustment for the valve or what any body no. I have a 97 power stroke that when i start it cold idles fine as engine warms it starts to miss . I have changed everything i mean everything but ipr and map sensor.
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Rough idle I have had for little bit.Would stall out at idle or a stop, but fire right up? No one could figure it out with the stalling, but now its bad, started yesterday. Have white/blueish smoke sometimes, ( white smoke smells fuel) on restart after warmed when it dies, first time it took 25 mins to restart, now only takes 5 to 15 mins, when I step on it INCREDIBLE full power, fuel mileage gone to hell also since yesterday. Had full tank, now 1/2 tank.
No problems on cold start at all, no check light, 325,000 and never had this before.
Bad fuel?
ICP?
FICM?
Recent work, new turbo, ( turbo was original turbo installed when built) cooling line to waterpump, oil change, new fuel filters, front brakes and 2 new batteries.
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I bought this from my brother in better than mint condition. Always maintained. Its generating a cyl #2 misfire code.
It starts and runs like new when cold, but when it warms up, it idles rough, and generates the code. after 1500 rpm it smooths right out and runs fine.
He had it to the dealer just before I bought it and they told him needed a new engine.
I am thinking bad injector, since what seems to be happening is, when cold it gets more fuel, or when u rev it gets more fuel, but at an idle and warm, it doesn't seem to be getting enough maybe. And I see from the maintenance records, a couple of other injectors have been replaced as well.
I think the dealer got tired of replacing injectors under warranty and tried to milk him for a new engine.
2002 ranger extended cab 2wd, 3 door, 232,000 kms 5 speed 3 liter V6, new glass and clutch..
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04 f250 364000 miles 06 6.0. New fan clutch. Ac didn't work when I put the engine in found out the fan clutch was bad so I replaced it. Now it doesn't turn at idle until the engine warms up even if I have the ac on. In the mornings it comes on and keep the temp at 190. In the after noon when if finally comes on truck runs at 210 to 190. Fss 530 when on at 210 at idle. And 800 at 1200 rpm what is going on.
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My 97 E350/460ci occasionally sets trouble code 4011. It clears every time I check it with my code reader. Something about insufficient secondary air injection. The dealer ship couldn't duplicate/diagnose the problem. Maybe something with the air injection solenoids.
Otherwise, it runs fine. I did notice on the passenger side of the engine compartment a large black metal filter looking thingie with about a 3/4" outlet that doesn't have any hose on it or seem to go anywhere else. Once in a while when you start it i hear a sort of soft popping noise for a few seconds that I would associate with the air pump.
Also can't get the ABS light to go away. It's out when you start it but as soon as you get going it comes on. I flushed the fluid and replaced the rear sensor to no avail. Also tried to flush out the front tone wheels and sensors.
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My 97 e350 club wagon is doing something weird. Front AC wont go to Max Air, the blend door wont function. Can hear vacuum trying to work. Rear Unit is on Heat even though Front is on AC and blows hot air out the rear floor vents. Hit some high water going too fast about a year ago. Next day, this started happening. Rigged up blend door so air flows through vents.
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Recently when I start my car, it starts fine when it's cold because it will idle high until it warms up, but if I start it while it's warm the rpms drop to about 500 barely idlling and if I tap the gas a couple of times the problem goes away and it idles normally at about 700.
I recently also replaced the o-ring on the distributor because it was leaking oil. I reset the timing twice. It is hard to get an accurate reading in the dark, looking at a little timing mark 3 feet away, but I am sure it is at 10 BTDC.
New wires, new thermostat, air filter could be a little dirty, other than that, I am thinking it might be an oily sensor or something else?
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