Ford A/C :: 1997 E150 Heater Won't Blow Hot
Nov 28, 2003
I have a 97 E-150 with factory air (vin L) the heat/cool quit working just before summer it quit blowing cold. The old man took it to some mechanic (i hate when he does that) and he fixed it so there was air only saying he had a choice of cold or hot (being summer in the desert he chose cold). Now that it is cold and we are traveling where defrost is needed, I need heat!!! I went to the Ford dealer and picked up a new potentiometer and that did not fix the problem. whenever the unit is on the a/c compressor kicks on........ Is this electrical or vacuum and where might i find the problem?
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So the heater on my 2001 f150 will only blow through cold air. I thought that I may have a heater core clog so I back flushed it with water until it was coming through clean and unrestricted but that didn't solve the problem.
Now, some things to note are a potential coolant leak. I can't seem to find one but I filled up the antifreeze about two months ago and when I checked it the other day it was more or less empty. I've filled it up again and I will monitor it for the next couple of days.
Another thing to mention is that no matter what setting I have the heater on (ie 'panel' or 'defrost') I get cold air blowing at the passenger side's feet. Is this indicative of a hose leak or something?
Also worth noting is that the intake hose to the heater core gets hot after driving but the outtake stays cool. This is why I originally thought I had a core clog.
Should I be checking my blend door? If so how to I access it?
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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I have a 94 ford Taurus all of a sudden my ac doesn't blow cold and my heat doesn't blow hot. Also every now and again I hear a sound like an alarm clock coming from passenger side??
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2000 f150 heater only got warm.
Flushed system, new thermostat, new coolant. Then NO warm air. A/C blows cold. Checked heater blend door and actuator both intact and working. Heater core not leaking, system holds pressure and doesn't leak.
Is there another automatic valve that could be shutting off flow to heater core?????
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I have a 97 E-150 with A/C. When I turn on the climate control unit to either heat or a/c and the blower motor fan control switch to any setting I do not feel anything coming from any vents above or below the dash. However every once in awhile I can hear that it is putting a small strain on the motor as the motor tends to bog down a little like it normally does when the a/c is on. When the heater control unit is turned off there is no strain on the motor.
I don't want to go replacing things and blowing money that isn't necessary on parts that aren't bad. I would like to get this fixed before the cold weather actually gets here.
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I have a 2000 Ford E150 Van with 5.4L and auto trans. I left the lights on and ran the battery dead. Charged it back up and now ever since then, when I am going 50-60mph and let off the gas, the van freewheels for a short distance and then acts like it shifts out of overdrive and pulls the van down like its not in freewheel mode anymore. Only has 73K on it.
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I'm 1/2 way through a flush and water pump replacement. Its going to get cold and I don't want to blow any heater lines. I have the pump off and the block drained (I also managed to get some coolant into the block - but not the rear heat).
I don't see an easy place at the front to disconnect the lines. I'd like to blow them out just to be safe. What is the best place to disco in the front or if I even need to - can I just disco 1 in the rear and then blow in both direction?
I fear that there may be some vent door closed that will prevent flow. I can't start the truck - I can turn the key on.
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I have a 2007 PI and recently lost heat and ac. All the controls do what they are supposed to do but both heat and ac blow room temp only. Fuses and relays are all good. Is this a blend door actuator problem? This is my guess and I'm basing the next question on a yes answer. Is it possible to access the actuator by making an eightXfour hole in the top of the dash above the radio. I would prefer not to have to pull the dash out of the way since everything else works good.
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To kick off the coldest week (so far) of the winter season, I noticed a problem with the heater controls in my 06 Explorer with manual temp. controls. No matter which fan settings I select (defrost, panel+floor, etc), air does not blow through some of the vents. I can hear the fan working and air flows through the defrost vents and through the floor vents, but the there is no airflow through the vents below radio and round vents on the far left and far right sides of the dashboard.
Perhaps related to this problem, a couple months ago I replaced the blower motor resistor because fan speeds 1 and 2 did not work, only 3 and 4 worked, so whenever I would turn on the heat or A/C, it was on full blast all the time. After replacing the resistor, the issue was resolved and all of the speeds worked well. I guess I just never realized the issue with the vents, or maybe the problem happened because I replaced the resistor?
Since I'm not too knowledgeable with the climate control circuit, I'm not too sure where to begin, perhaps the switch or blower motor?
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Here's what I have. 02 X 7.3L 4x4.
Heater will work fine. Then out of nowhere just blow cold. I can turn it off then back on it'll blow hot for 1 minute or 20 minutes. Then out of nowhere blow cold again. It doesn't matter if I'm highway driving or city driving.
I'm kinda thinking it may be the door in the duct that's just closing. I real don't know.
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My blower doesn't seem to blow very hard. I've been in other fords and the ac and heat blows great. Someone suggested that that I pull the fan motor and clean the blades.
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Ok, is it possible to blow a fuze if the block heater is still plugged in when starting? Almost did this the other day and wondered if its possible to cause a short or something.
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I've only had the car about a month, and love everything about it. . . . but with the onset of cold mornings, I'm not very excited about the luke-warm air coming out of my heater.
It's reminding me of my old B5.5 Passat VR6 wagon and the annual heater-core flush that it required. Of course, the Passat was 13 years old and had 200k on it.
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Sunday I bought a 2001 f250/5.4 to replace my 91 f250. I didnt drive it yesterday, but this morning on my drive to work the heater was very weak, it seemed to blow warm for the most part, but was barely pushing air even on high. I flipped it over to A/C to see if it blew any harder and it did. Does the blower motor need replace? if so why does the AC blow harder than the heater?
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I have a 2006 f250 and the heater will blow cold air unless you are driving in like highway conditions. If you stop or drive slow it blows cold air only. What is causing this???
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I am having a problem with the heater on my 98 2.7 Intrepid. Will not blow hot air when idling (just warm). After several minutes of driving with heat on air temp goes from hot to warm. It might just be me, but it seems like the air flow is cooler coming out of the defrost vents than from the dash/floor vents. Thermostat has been replaced (proper operation verified before installing). Had to replace gooseneck and heater coil supply tubing due to a leaking bleed valve. There appears to be NO air in the system.
Heater core was backflushed, there appears to be no restriction. Hose temp on exit line is approx. 15 deg. cooler than supply line when fan is running. Blend door actuator was replaced last spring (motor shorted). When temp control is moved from hot to cold temp changes drastically and door can be heard moving. On-board ATC diagnostics indicate all is good. Engine is running at normal operating temperature, not overheating or running cold. Is there a cabin filter or inlet supply for the air that could possibly be obstructed? Air flow seems adequate, not restricted. AC works fine.
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I have a 2000 suburban with a 1500 motor and 300000 miles. Last year I replace the water pump and the thermostat. The heater would blow warm but not hot . But only when I start to drive. Yesterday I decide to change thermostat again thinking the new one from last year was faulty. Now the heater only blows cold air .
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My heater quit blowing hot or warm air all of the sudden. I took my mechanic and they said it showed no codes and were afraid to mess with it so I took it to a dealership. They worked on it most of a day. Said nothing showed a code as bad, they got into it and found the air going into the heater core was hot, but it was cool coming out. They spent some time flushing the coolant and said they found some sediment in the coolant fluid. They were hoping to flush out anything clogging the heater core.
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2005 Elantra here with 120k miles
Problem: Not heat will come out unless
1) I don't turn on the Fan Motor at all. Very Nice heat will "bleed" out of the vents as long as there is no Fan on - on any setting.
2) Lukewarm heat will come out if I am giving the car gas or revving it. As soon as it goes back to idle or I am no longer giving gas it goes back to no heat at all.
Things I have tried:
Topped up the radiator and tank (radiator has been replaced)
Water pump replaced
No leaks
Thermostat is opening ( Upper hose gets hot, Lower hose stays cold for a while and then gets hot)
Flushed heater core with a garden hose.
Inlet hose to heater core is hotter than outlet hose but outlet hose is not cold to the touch.
Radiator cap has been replaced
Car does not run hot at all
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I just replaced the radiator in my 2001 Elantra and now the heater will not blow warm air. Also the temp gauge on the dash stays at cold.
I have replaced all radiator hoses ...
New thermostat
New thermostat sensor
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