Ford A/C :: 1996 F350 - Air Coming Out Warmed Up To Ambient Temperature
Jul 11, 2009
I have a 96 F350 Crewcab longbed 4x4 and about a week ago I noticed that at idle speed (ie stopping at a stop light) the temperature of the air coming out of the A/C warmed up to ambient temperature. When I accelerated and held highway speed the air would cool back down. i listened for the clutch to engage and it would engage for 1 second and then disengage for 5 seconds. i hooked up one of those cheap gauges from auto zone. With the truck running the clutch would engage at 40 stay on until it went to 20 and the shut off. Also the A/C has completely quit cooling. By the way its HOT here.
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P0073 Ambient air temperature sensor circuit high. Preliminary inspection, right outside mirror badly damaged/broken. Guess where the sensor is?
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I drive a 2003 Passat (B5.5) 1.6 petrol (102HP)
I noticed the problem now, because I wanted to test the electric cooling fan (part 8D0 959 455 R). I want to test it because I have changed the carbon brushes that was worn out in the motor. The fan is now reinstalled in the car and just waiting for some voltage through the standard wire harness. To make this fan spin I figured I could just activate the A/C compressor by setting the Climatronic in "LO" (no ECON). Because it is below freezing outside, I drove my car inside a heated parking garage and let it stay there for an hour or two. For some reason the A/C compressor does not start when I go "LO", even if the car is warm and placed in a warm environment. I noticed that the outside air temperature indicator in the instrument panel and on Climatronic LCD-display showed -3 'Celcius (Just below 32 'F).
After some internet searching I thought that one or both of the air temperature sensors (G17 and G89) were at fault. However, they both seem to be ok. (I even measured the resistance of the ambient temperature sensor, G17, with a DMM and it had the correct value of 1.25 kohm @ 20 'Celcius and 3.8 kohms @ -3.5 'C). In VAG-COM, I read the relevant measuring blocks (08-Auto HVAC, Group 6) for the sensors, and they both show plausible temperatures. See enclosed VAG-COM screenshot. The calculated temperature however (as shown on the cars instrument and Climatronic displays) is way low. A couple of times, calculated temperature has been exactly 10,0 'C. This temperature is identical to the substitute value in case of double sensor signal failure (according to VAG Self Study Program 208 part II, page 48)
The calculated temp looks correct around freezing point (0'C/32'F) and colder, but never catches up when the car is taken to the warm garage. I even logged the relevant temp info in VAG-COM when I was driving in and out of the warm garage. See enclosed chart screenshot from MS Excel.
I have tried to disconnect the battery for 15-20 minutes, but that did not fix the problem. Is it possible that the circuits that calculate the outside temperature get different sensor temperature values than the OBD system gets and shows me through VAG-COM? When the temperature problem is solved, I can continue to check if my electric cooling fan works...
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Where is this located? This is the sensor that reads the outside air temp for inside display. Looked between radiator and bumper cover pretty thoroughly.
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I have a 2007 Prius. I turned on the AC for the first time this spring last week and the air blowing out of the vent was ambient temperature. When I looked through the sight glass with the AC running, it looks like there's fluid in there, but it's not moving anywhere and the evaporator pipe did not feel cool. I also replaced the 12 V battery a few months ago, with an optima yellow top battery.
What's wrong with the AC? Will a recharge do it fix this, or did I mess something up with the battery. There were a lot of warnings about "resetting" the system after you have the 12V out, but I didn't seem to have any problems that were described as symptomatic of needing a reset.
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I have a 1996 Mercedes C280. The outside ambient air sensor has gone bad and now reads about 30 degrees F high. There are two types of sensors for this model and year. One is a plug-in sensor that looks like a small pointy cone. The other is a long cable with a metal cylinder at the end that looks like an old-style stereo headphones jack (the thick kind). I have this second type.
I would like to know whether, instead of replacing the whole wire and sensor combination, which involves taking out the instrument cluster and rerunning the wire, I can simply cut off the wire at the sensor end and solder in a new sensor (cut off from a new part).
I am wondering whether it would be possible to just cut the existing cable near the sensor end and then solder in one of the pointy cones. There is a youtube video that shows replacement of a similar type of pointy cone sensor on a BMW, and it looks like the assembly that accepts the sensor is the same, so if I couldn't find a Mercedes plug-in receiver assembly for my old car, I could maybe use the BMW one and then plug in the Mercedes sensor. That would let me do another plug-in later without resoldering.
Since this sensor has gone bad once before, I have to think that a replacement won't last more than five years or so.
I am not sure whether the outside temperature has an effect on other aspects of the car, such as injection mix. I presume it has to go through the on-board computer, because it must be the signal for the little snowflake that appears on the dash when the outside temperature drops to freezing at the road level. Whether leaving the sensor alone and just living with a high reading will cause problems? Right now when the outside temp is around 70 degrees F the sensor reads about 105 degrees F.
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Temperatures have dropped, and I am getting an icon that looks like a tent with a small snowflake in it - manual says "low temperature." My question is - what should I do? The icon persists after the car is warmed up.
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I have a 2006 F350 6.0L. That is Having trouble starting after it is warmed up. Ive been told multiple things it could be but the one ive been told the most is the Stand pipe or dummy plug in the oil rail having a small leak. Is this correct? Or is there something else i need to Check??
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1995 7.3L f350 400k mi developed 1poss 2 cyl miss does not change after warm up and will die after 10 min .
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This 1996 (220KM) car will run fine (perfect)for about ten minutes from cold (I'm talking -5 C)then starts to misfire when warmed up. Difficult to pull away (automatic) from a stop. Sound like its missing on two cylinders. Really chunters.
Installed new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil,filter. Don't know what to check next. Car will work at speed but I can feel it missing. Gun it and it will go. Doesn't appear to be a fuel problem.
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The car has always had an issue with randomly stalling and dieing. It could be coming to a stop, driving down the st or just in idle. No warning, usually except once in a while the RPMs will drop pretty low before it cuts out. Other times it will "stutter" if you wonna call it that while I'm driving rev up and down around 2k.
Now while it's doing that, I noticed if I give it more gas it'll act like it's gonna cut out until I let off the pedal then it revs back up and sometimes if I catch it at the high point and hit the gas again that will occasional "catch it" and it will run okay for a bit. Anyway - recently I found that if I just let the car warm up before I drive it seems to run great. If I just start and go, it dies as soon as I put it in gear.
Note: Maintenance up to par, no engine light, don't smell gas, new filter, MAF, IAC, no vacuum leaks I can find.
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Shade tree mechanic, new to diesels and new to forum. I have the dreaded 03' 6.0 F350. It cranks over strong but will not start after its warmed up. I went to Auto Zone and they gave me the following codes: P2291, P132B, P0672, P0402, P0284. Once it's started it runs fine.
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I have an 02 f350 7.3 power stroke...Yesterday I noticed the outside temp was reading wrong,it was jumping from 67 to 86 to 92 back to 67..Temp was prob around 90 with high humidity and my a/c was on..So I got to where I was going and when I restarted my truck to go home the fuel gauge dropped to empty(I just fueled the day before) and fuel light came on and outside temp still wrong on the overhead digital display...Are these two things related???
Stopped the truck restarted it and fuel reads correctly again....Went out today and fuel light back on and on empty...Outside temp wrong again,a/c is on .....I disconnected the batteries when I got home to "reset the system"if there is such thing, fuel gauge working but outside temp wrong..?? Where is the outside temp sensor ?could condensation be running onto the sensor and throwing off my temp gauge? Just strange that both these things happened at the same time......I don't think its a fuse or they wouldn't work at all. I should mention all the other gauges work correctly...
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This is a great little truck we only use occasionally. It has 145,000 miles and runs great, but the a/c temperature is very sporadic, and this week it is 100 degrees! One day it will work fine, and the next day it will only blow hot air. Sometimes the air starts out cold, but after 5 min of driving, it turns hot. I have had the freon checked and my mechanic said part of the compressor (forget what he called it) was probably getting stuck at times, and he would have to pull it all out and possibly replace...
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I just got done changing a/c clutch on a 96 f-350 5.8 because it was making a lot of noise. The new one is just as bad. Would the air gap cause this? When I took it off I could see it was hitting the pulley. The gap was 0.21 is that the specs on it.
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My '01 F-150 2WD, XLT has a foghorn sound coming from the left front side at idle after the 4.6L is warmed up. It goes away with an increase in engine RPM and is unnoticeable at hwy speeds. I have no codes (I have checked w/ my code reader). The service desk guy at the stealer said it is my abs pump going bad (I figured it was a pump of some sort, my 55 packard PS makes the same noise when almost empty-the system leaks). It also appears this is a stealer only part, and going to cost 6 or 7 benjamins to buy and probably another 5 benjamins too fix.
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Newbie hear to the 6.0L's. But I'm learning an awful lot really quick from all of you here. I've read lots of tech stuff on these EGR Coolers, oil coolers, FICM tests. This is what I got happening right now.
2004 F-250 6.0L. Today was 45 degrees in Reno. 5400 ft elevation. Tried to start it without block heater. Would not even crank. It tried to crank but sounded like it locked up on first crank. Tried again, nothing. Same. Tried yet again and finally got to getting the engine to crank, but wouldn't start after about 5 seconds of cranking. Waited a little while not wanting to burn out my FICM, then tried again. Same as previous, would crank but not turnover. Checked batteries. Both were over 12.3 V cold, motor not running. This next time, turned key on and let it sit in ON position for about a minute. Then cranked and it took about 5 seconds and then the motor finally cranked over. Lots of black smoke as usual for a cold start like this. Battery volts after cranking over and running were now both over 13.6 V.
Keep in mind the truck has started better than this before in 15 degree weather just about a month ago.
After it started I noticed what appeared to be oil/coolant residue directly underneath trucks transmission area. It was not tranny, but in that area. I got under the truck and can see this fluid coming from EGR Cooler area.
Now for the smoke. Just stared smoking on start up. White smoke. Then it would disappear as engine warmed up. Now its constant white smoke when warmed up and applying the throttle. Smells like coolant coming out of exhaust. Not diesel.
I parked truck facing downwards on my driveway. Then I checked EGR Valve. When I pulled it it was WET. Not dry. Peeked in EGR Valve hole, didn't see coolant. Just wetness. I did change gasket and rings on it the day before as well.
As for FICM, it reads 47.9 Volts on key turn, 48.1 on cranking and 47.8 running. FICM good by all standard 6.0L literature. Degas bottle passed pressure test holding near 15 PSI for 20 minutes! No oil in degas bottle that I can see.
Truck is stock. Is my egr cooler and oil cooler shot? Would a bad egr cooler or oil cooler cause this awful cold start? When I plug in the block heater, it starts NO PROBLEM, but still white smoke. Also, NO loss of power at any time.
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I have a trans temp gauge on my 1996 F350, I have it all hooked up and functioning except for the light. I have searched without success looking for where to splice in to get the light on and have it dimmable. I have a wire routed from the gauge to the center of the dash behind the stereo. What wire I can splice into?
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3.5 has engine knock coming from oil pan, gets louder when engine fully warmed up. Suspect connecting rod bearings. 99 Intrigue has 203K on it and otherwise in excellant condition. Is it possible to replace connecting rod bearings with engine in car. What is involved in removing lower crankcase after oil pan is removed. Car has been trouble free so far and would like to get another 60K out of it
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I stuck my phone down by the electric motor and recorded this while the car was running:
My '06 has been making this odd noise coming from the front of the vehicle. It's coming from somewhere under the hood on the right side (the driver's side), and I think it's under or next to the electric motor.
It happens when warmed up, and only when the vehicle is turned on. It doesn't seem to be related to the ICE, because the noise happens regardless if the ICE is running or not. In fact it happens rarely, so when I heard it I jumped out and tried to locate it (and recorded it with my phone).
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We have a Ford Focus wagon that idles rough once the engine starts coming up to temperature. When you first start the car it's fine. For example, today I started the car, drove it up the road to the store and it was fine, but upon returning to my driveway just a few minutes later, as the engine temperature was just starting to come up, it started idling really rough. The idle is so rough it sounds like it's on the verge of stalling, but it never has actually stalled. An oxygen sensor has been replaced and it was good for a while, but now the problem is back. The check engine light is on as well.
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