Ford A/C :: 1996 Econoline - Warm Air At Idle
Jun 8, 2012
I have a 96 E-350 7.3 PSD. I noticed that the A/C seems to work well on the Highway but not so well stopped Idling. I thought maybe it was airflow so I replaced the Fan Clutch... Seemed like it was better for while (could have been my imagination)... I decided to evac the system and refill. The system takes 4 lbs of freon. The van was indeed low so I thought I had found my problem, but it didn't seem to work after evacing and refilling.
With gauges on the system the low side pressure when it was 80 degrees out this morning was 70 and the high side was 145. A/c temp from the vents was about 70.. If I raised the RPM's to about 2k, the low side would drop to around 30-35 the high side would stay about the same... and the AC in the Cabin was in the 50's...
Does this problem have to do with air flow over the condenser, or is possible that the compressor is getting tired. (The compressor stays on the entire time) Could it be a clogged orifice?
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We have a 1996 Dodge Dakota SLT that we purchased used. It starts and runs beautifully when the engine is cold; however, if you turn the vehicle off it is difficult to get it restarted and to keep it idling without keeping your foot on the accelerator. The funky thing is that after your "fight" with it a few minutes (i.e., foot constantly on the accelerator), the truck will then start to run correctly and idle correctly until the next time you turn off the engine. We have noticed that on each occasion when we have had this problem, the engine smells EXTREMELY flooded. We've been told its a temperature sensor, any other number of sensors, and now the IAC. If starting by process of elimination with least expensive fix first, what the heck do we replace first?
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My Explorer speedo works fine for the first bit of riving but when the vehicle gets warm it goes to exactly 50 and stays there.
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I have a 1996 Ranger that the Heater/AC blower only works when the outside air temp is above 45 degrees. I have replaced the relay, and the blower motor resistor. What could be causing this?
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I have a 67 Econoline supervan, and have been getting a grinding noise out of the rear end at certain rpm's. It's only under heavy load, when I'm first accelerating, that the noise comes out. Now here's the question, is this the wheel bearings, or my rear differential in dire need of attention? Now, the only thing I've done so far to remedy it is change the differential oil, to no avail.
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We own a 12 passenger Ford Econoline and would like to add head rests to the bench seats. We have 4 children; 3 in car seats and 1 in a high back booster, but she's quickly outgrowing it, and I don't want to take her out of it until there's something there to support her neck in an accident.
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I have a 1997 Ford Econoline conversion campervan that I don't use very often. I need to open the hood to jump start the battery. Last time I opened the hood I did not notice anything wrong with the hood or the hood release latch inside the cab. Now when I pulled the hood release latch inside the cab, nothing happens to the hood at all (the hood does not open at all). Is there a way I can open the hood or do I need to tow it to my mechanic?
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Having Cruise control issues. A diagram would be useful. Most of the early CC systems work the same way but have discovered there are variants in wire color codes. Specifically looking for Cruise Control wiring schematics for 83 econoline.
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Working on my bosses 97 Econoline conversion van. The steering wheel was flopping in the breeze, gear indicator was off and some of the time it would be in reverse when you thought it was in park. Checked the torx on the shift cable plate and they are tight. Replaced the 2 bushings on the shift column. They tightened up the steering wheel flopping around. I checked the shift cable and it appears to be in good shape.
It would start sometimes if you worked the shifter in park or moved it to neutral. Now it will not turn over. Shift lock actuator does not appear to be working. Does not lock it park. No continuity between any of the three pins with the actuator pushed in or out. If you turn the key you can take it out of park without pushing on the brake. Really do not know the series of events that have to occur to make it turn over. How to trouble shoot the problem?
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My Burb starts right up when the engine compartment is cold. Can barely touch the key and the thing fires right up.
Once engine compartment is hot (operating temp), I shut off the motor, let it sit for a few minutes and I get about 3-5 seconds of dry start each time I start it. It fires right up, runs great after that dry start period.
The dry-start behaves as if it's starved for fuel for those 3-5 seconds.
It's a K1500 with a stock 5.7l (350 ci). 180,000 miles and the entire drivetrain runs like a top. Only mod I've made is a K&N cold air intake.
Here's what I've done/changed recently (i.e. within the past 5k miles):
Fuel pump, OEM installed by dealer.Fuel filter.Ignition control module, BWD.Ignition coil, BWD.Crankshaft position sensor, GM OEM.Engine coolant temp sensor, BWD.Oxygen sensors (all four), GM OEM.Catalytic converter, replaced one of the two.Plug wires, BWD.Plugs, Delco OEM.Distributor cap and rotor, BWD.Cleaned ground connection (bolts to frame) for fuel pump.Alternator, new not reman.PCV valve.Battery.
Full diagnostics by a very qualified shop two weeks ago, no bleedback from injector spider, fuel pressure solid and holds perfectly. After 90 minutes of troubleshooting, the mechanics finally gave up.
One last thing with potential that I can think of is that I started running ethanol-free gas around the same time this issue surfaced. Not at the exact time, but at a relatively similar time. Gas mileage has increased by 40% and power increased, hard to blame "bad gas."
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Second off my 01 PSD CC has a issue. When its more or less sunny and hot out 90+ at idle A/C blows warm .... I've just replaced my fan clutch as it was lose a bit .... Also replaced dyer VVO and compressor recently. Idle low is at 40 and high is at 190 200 ...
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'96 civic 180k miles. Just had timing belt replaced but has been clicking when cold so mechanic checked & adjusted valves. Still clicks on startup until warm, less than 5 minutes, as it has for the last year or more. What could be the problem?
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1996 Ranger 2.3 140 CID XLT 126,000 Miles. When coming to a stoplight or stopping the engine idle is low and causing engine to almost die. Engine has been stuck at high idle a couple of times. It started with the engine idle slowly coming down and now it its too low. I suspect the Idle air control valve.
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Back after months...van has been checked by 2 ford dealer mechanics here in VA , nothing.
Now it's the opposite ...temp outside 90 or higher, drive it for 8 -10 ml, park and come back after 15 min. From shopping, try to start, won't idle, stalls every time I try , after 6-8 attempts, back to normal, all together 3 times, last time was so bad, had a real problem to make it back home, at every stop, it stalled.
Back to the shop ....they drove several times, no show ...it's fine, don't know what to do ????
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I drive a hot mess of a vehicle. It is a 1997 for taurus that's got more than its fair share of miles on it.My big brother drove this car when he was 16 and I am 22. I am a college kid and I don't do much to my car knowing it will die soon but at the same time I don't have much money to do much. We have a good relationship most of the time and I gladly provide gas and regular oil changes in exchange for transportation.
My car when its warm outside especially idles very rough. So rough that at times it stalls out. It seems to happen most often and to the worst degree when the outside temp is very high and it has been running recently and I'm trying to start it up again. At other times and temperatures it has idled rough but not bad enough to stall. Once I start driving, or moving, its fine. The rough idle makes my car sound like a boat, that's the best way I can explain it.
Why my car does this? How to fix it?
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So, I have a 97 f150 with a 4.6 that idles low, around 5-600 all the time, and stalls in warm weather only. I just cleaned the IAC to no avail..
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1999 F-150 5.4L. I just removed the clutch fan and installed two electric fans about two weeks ago. The same evening, I took a short drive and noticed the idle was way higher than it normally is. Its idling about 800 to 900 RPM. Now, the weird part.....Startup is normal, as in the idle jumps up for the warmup, then drops to the normal 600 to 700 range. after a short drive, the idle is high and noticeable at a stop.
Sometimes, if I let the truck idle, after about 10 mins or so the idle will slowly start creeping up a little at a time till it hits about 900 or so and will level off. I have tried the IAC, I have tried disconnecting the battery and letting the PCM reboot, I have checked ALL my vacuum lines, I have checked my TPS sensor and voltages, checked my MAF sensor and voltages, fuel pressures, everything I could think of...
I hooked up my scanner (Auto X-Ray 6000) and checked all my running data, nothing really sticks out to me as outta whack. No codes set..
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Here's another idle problem. I have a 1992 aerostar, 3.0 2wd with 245,000 kms.
I have been working on this van for weeks now getting it ready for summer. I have done a complete tune up consisting of wires, plugs, rotor, cap, pcv and all filters including gas, air and oil. I have checked the vacuum hoses as best as I could and all seem fine.
Here.s the problem. I start the van and it idles great. The engine doesn't move. After a few minutes it slows down a bit and starts to shake. Once it is completely warm and has been driven for an hour, it shakes noticeably. It has lots of power and gets good mileage. It never has a starting problem and never seems to be close to stalling. I am suspecting it is one of the various pollution control items such as the MAF, IAC or 02 sensor. Is there a way to check them at home?
While under the van, I noticed a cable that goes from the transmission into the firewall. A bracket holding it in place broke and the cable was rubbing against the exhaust pipe and burned through. Could this be related? I taped up the cable and tied it up and away from the pipe.
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I have the 2.0L 4 cyl. engine (2001 XLS Manual 114k miles). Runs fine when cold but once the engine gets warmed up it starts idling really low. I mean so low that the RPM gauge looks like the engine is turned off, although it hasn't completely stalled (yet). The engine will kind of stumble here and there and occasionally jump up to the normal RPM. Not rough really (in fact it's hard to tell if the engine is on when it's so low) but something is obviously wrong. The check engine light is not on (assume no codes?).
Also when I'm driving I can feel that the RPM's are unstable and erratic. You know, it feels like I'm pushing and releasing the pedal very slightly even though I'm not moving it.
I replaced the spark plugs and fuel filter since they needed to be done anyway. I checked the vacuum lines and they all seem good. I replaced a few deteriorated lines even though they were holding vacuum. None of this changed anything.
So now I'm looking at more expensive stuff like the throttle position sensor, idle air bypass valve, EGR, MAF, etc. Where I should start? Is there anything that I can actually test to see if it's working or do I just need to start replacing parts until I find the problem? I guess cleaning the MAF and IAC might be starting points that don't cost anything (that IAC looks difficult to remove though).
I'm kind of thinking it's the TPS since it feels erratic at speed. However, I have never had a bad TPS cause a slow idle before. I have had it cause rough idle and such but not slow. Can it do that? What about the MAF sensor?
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I have a 2005 ranger, 3.0 and automatic trans
The truck runs fine until it is warm... runs great down highway... stopping at a light or stop sign is horrible, It will act like the (old term ) carb is flooding out.
I put it on a meter It said tps so I replaced it. then it said number 4 cyl no power so I put new plugs in.... I do not hear any vacuum leaks, and It runs like a top when cold.
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I purchased an '08 F150 about 6 months ago, and have a problem that two mechanics haven't been able to solve. The truck has a 5.4L engine. Unfortunately, I bought from an auction and the 30 day warranty expired before I realized the problem.
After a longer drive (30 minutes to work) the engine is warm, and I always back into my parking spot or driveway. In low gear, it begins to idle very rough and the engine shakes. If I leave it long enough, it will stall. Usually I pop it into neutral, give it some gas, and its fine. I just bought a camper trailer, so I'll need to use the lower gear when backing up.
So far, the engine has been flushed twice, the solenoid replaced and phaser replaced. The second mechanic has recommended I contact a dealer, but haven't had luck with them with my previous Explorer. What it could be? I will be getting the diagnostic paperwork this week.
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