Ford A/C :: 1996 - Blowing Hot With Fan In Off Position
Aug 2, 2011
1996 2.3l Ranger, 223K miles
yesterday I had the A/C on max and noticed that the the fan stopped blowing while going up hill. Im not talking about it blowing a little warmer than normal A/C, I mean nothing coming from the vents until I crested the hill. Blower worked normally after the hills. This has never happened in the 15 yrs I've owned the truck. Same issue happened a few more times that trip.
Eventually, the A/C stopped cooling all together and only blew hot air. I tried turning off the A/C an d fan but it kept blowing hot air. With the fan in the OFF position, hot air was coming out of the vents as if the fan was on High. I currently have the vent on A/C Max with the vents closed in order to have as little hot air as possible enter the cab. It still comes thru floorboard vents.
A/C was professionally charged two months ago and had no signs of a leak using pro gauges. It was a little low so my guy basically topped it off. It was the first time in 15yrs that its been recharged.
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 1996 Ford Ranger which was manufactured in 08/95. The key will crank the trunk fine, but it when put into the off position nothing happens. It continues to run as normal. You can even take the key out, but the truck runs like normal. Could this be bad ignition switch? The key seems to be doing its job because I can see the plastic pin(? I am not sure what its called) move back and forth down steering column when the key is turned.
View 7 Replies
My ignition key is stuck / locked in the off position. The first time this happened I jiggled the key while moving the wheel back and forth and it turned. The next time in the truck nothing worked. I let it roll back a bit then tried, pushed the clutch in and put it in neutral, etc it did not move. (Just had the clutch and clutch hydraulics replaced.) The wheel is locked. The key removes from the cylinder.
I know it is easy to replace the Ignition Lock Cylinder when you can turn the key in the run position. How to remove it when locked in off?
View 4 Replies
My check engine light came on about a week ago and was unsure what the problem was. So I tested the codes and it said that the camshaft position sensor was bad. So I have tried finding this sensor but little to no luck. I was unsure if it was the 2 or 3 pin, but after looking at some pictures of the engine I'm thinking it is a 2 pin. I attached two pictures of what I think might be the sensor? But I am unsure. This was right next to the timing belt cover, which is where it said it was located. I have a 1996 Ford Ranger, 2.3L.
View 6 Replies
Took my 96 B2300 2WD SE (190k) to lunch. When I went to start it back up afterwards, the key turned but no starter engaged. All the dash lights came on, and now stay on. With the key in, I can turn the ignition freely...no clicking to different positions.
It springs a little when I turn it all the way, but still no starter. When I remove the key, the dash lights stay on, etc. So, since it was on, we were able to push-start it. I've parked it on a hill for now, and will disconnect the battery when I get it home.
View 6 Replies
1996 Ford Explorer on a small island with no mechanics. Vehicle does less than 100 miles per year, never over 20 mph. The check engine light came on and the code reader says it's a problem with the Camshaft Position Sensor. The vehicle runs fine, just as it did before the check engine light came on. I'm tempted to put some electrical tape over the check engine light and keep driving.
View 2 Replies
My 96 F-350 Crew Cab driver rear door lock is stuck in the locked position. I don't have a cause but do now notice that the pass door lock will not operate with the lock/unlock switch. The rear solenoids seem dead. Front door locks are working.
I tried to put a 10-32 coupling nut on the lock riser and pull. The down position is now 1/8-1/4" higher than normal. This thing is really stuck and is really bad.
So before I start pulling the rear seat and trying to remove the door panel from a closed door; how I might unlock this door? It would be a lot easier to get the panel off if it is open.
View 2 Replies
My 1996 Ford Ranger's Fuel Pump- Fuse keeps on blowing... (Fuel pump is new)... We need to find where the short is coming from!
View 2 Replies
Car: 1996 Nissan Maxima
The car has an automatic antenna (up/down when you turn on/off the radio). I wanted to disconnect the motor to leave it in the up position. I followed the cables to the antenna (left the coax alone, of course), and cut the 3 conductors that were leading to "a box" under the antenna. NOTE: This area in behind a metal panel.
As intended, the antenna is stuck in the up position. The problem is that I also lost the dash clock, the remote to the door locks stopped working, and the radio memory buttons do not work anymore (the radio comes on in AM every time).
AND here is the mystery; I went back to the cables, spliced them together (correctly - they are color coded) but NOTHING CAME BACK TO NORMAL. The radio is still messed up, remote still not working, and the dash clock is still off.
View 7 Replies
Background: Check engine light indicated a problem with the throttle position sensor (unfortunately, don't have the exact code). The TPS on my model ('96 Dodge Intrepid 3.3L) is the non-adjustable type. There are three wires going to the TPS -- a power source, a signal wire, and a ground. The TPS acts as a potentiometer and depending on the throttle position, sends a voltage signal down the signal wire to the computer.
Here's my question/issue: After disconnecting the TPS, I tested the three wires with a multimeter. Power source (5V) and ground were fine. But I'm getting a voltage reading of about 4.35V on the signal wire. It's my understanding that with the TPS disconnected, I shouldn't be getting any voltage on that wire. Does that sound correct? If so, what would be causing me to get a voltage reading there? I'm assuming some type of problems with the wires, maybe an exposed wire on the signal wire somewhere?
View 6 Replies
it was over 100 degrees today in Lawrence, Kansas and on the way home from work, the air conditioner stopped making cool air. Hot air now comes out. This is a different problem that the poster before me seems to have. Mazda Protégé, 1996, 128,000 plus miles on it.
A reconditioned one was installed in 2006, compressor replaced in July, 2012.
View 6 Replies
My 96 Passat GLX-VR6 Wagon is blowing a white smoke that smells like maple syrup if I do any temp adjustments on my AC. It's also not blowing any cool or cold air in the coldest setting. Any thoughts? Heater Core? Just need freon?
View 3 Replies
1996 Plymouth Voyager ... My Van has about 90,000 miles and runs good. The heat worked great last year but is just blowing cold air out this year. I do not know where to start looking for the problem. I do not have a over-heating problem and it blows air out just as strong as before this problem. I had to replace the battery last month, could that have anything to do with this problem?
View 3 Replies
I have a 1996 Chevy K1500 that the AC just quit cooling. Compressor engages, and it shows a steady 37 on AC guage with no flux. Why it just blows hot air?
View 3 Replies
I have a 1996 geo metro that I have been working on for the last couple days. The problem that I have been running into is the ignition fuse keeps blowing the instant that the key is turned.
This kills the power to the fuel pump as well as the power to the ECM. (killing all the idiot lights). The engine still cranks over and all the accessories still work.
I have tried disconnecting the fuel pump wires as well as the ECM and the ignition module to try and narrow down the problem but the fuse still blows about 2 seconds after I turn the key.
View 4 Replies
Looking for a wiring diagram for a 96 model with 3.4 engine? The horn fuse keeps blowing and I don't know what else is on that circuit to check. The horn works when the fuse is replaced but the fuse blows at some time afterwards.
View 5 Replies
My 1996 Jeep Cherokee A/C system pushes cold air but out of the defroster vents not the A/C vents. Why this is happening? I suspect it is the slide switches for the A/C system but I am not sure and do not want to take the dash apart before I have some confirmation. I have checked the vacuum hoses with the heater/A/C system and they seem fine.
View 2 Replies
I have a '96 Dodge Stratus that keeps blowing fuse #20, which is for the fuel pump and the ignition. How to isolate the problem? This happens as soon as the key is turned on. The car has 140,000 miles and runs excellent otherwise.
View 3 Replies
Well I read most of the 2011 manual last night to find out why I have "M" on my gearshift, & found it near the end...so we can manually shift our gears. So I normally drive in D, and I use the tow/haul switch when trailing...so under what circumstances does the normal person need to manually shift through 5 gear positions using M, and the 5-position switch?
View 7 Replies
In hooking up a overhead DVD player it shorted out the Controlled Ground (Delay)(DOOR) Wire, now the dome light works still in the ON position but not in the AUTO position with the doors. It is very frustrating of a night when getting out and can't see. I'm not sure if it is a relay or a module that has gone bad and where it would be located. I know it's not a fuse because I have already check for that and I've checked the Controlled Ground Wire before it went bad and after with a meter.
View 2 Replies
I've recently purchased a 2007 Prius and I just noticed few days go that A/C blows warm air (weather was fair when I bought it and I can't remember if it really worked or not then) and middle vents do not blow any air. I'm not sure if two problems are connected but I do want to get both fixed without spending $$$ at the dealership. Where can I start?
View 5 Replies
