How often should my A/C clutch be cycling when the compressor is being used. (i.e defrost, mix, a/c and max a/c). My clutch never cycles, it starts spinning when I turn something on and it does not shut off until I shut off the a/c. The truck is a 95 F-150 4.9L 5 speed...
View 14 RepliesI have a 1995 F150 with the 4.9L and it has 73000 miles on it. One morning recently (it was about 35 degrees outside) I went to start my truck to let it warm up. When I let off of the clutch it stayed on the floor. I shut it off and drove my car to work instead. I asked around at work and one guy mentioned that it was probably my clutch master cylinder...so that day we replaced it, and bled it until it felt like knew. Since then, we have had to bleed it three more times, because the pedal keeps losing its pressure making it harder to shift. I have inspected around the clutch line and the bellhousing for signs of needing to replace my slave cylinder, but everything looks fine.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1995 Ford Ranger 4 cyl w/ hydraulic clutch, about 95k miles, and an intermittent problem. Normally, my clutch works fine, but a few times a year, normally during the summer, and normally only after driving for a half hour or more, it starts to act up. First, the pedal starts to feel a little spongy. Then, I'll depress the clutch, and when I release it, the peddle comes up, but the clutch does not engage; a few seconds later, the clutch engages fully instantaneously, which usually stalls the engine if I am stopped.
Then, when I try to reengage the clutch so that I can restart the engine, the clutch is very stiff, and I have to pump it a few times, at which time it will depress easily, and then I am usually back to the original problem where the peddle comes up but the clutch does not engage. When I finally make it home and the truck sits for awhile, the clutch then works fine again. I think it is the orig clutch. I have talked to several mechanics about this problem (including the Ford garage!), and they are mystified. One mechanic thinks that it is a problem with the master and slave cylinder combo, and can replace them.
The clutch is on 2 seconds and off 2 seconds, and there is a click up on top that clicks every 2 seconds ?..........no cold air either.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2002 Ford Explorer with AC that is not cooling. The AC clutch engages, then cycles off and repeats the process over and over. With a gauge on the low side port, the pressure rises to around 65 psi when the compressor is off, then drops in seconds down to nearly 10 psi. Does this indicate low AC pressure? I have always seen the pressure pretty much stay static at a certain pressure....haven't ever seen it fluctuate like that from low to high as the compressor kicks in and out.
View 2 Replies2000 Explorer Sport with 4.0L SOHC engine. When I turn on the A/C the clutch on the compressor cycles off and on every 10-15 seconds. The A/C cools and the gas charge is checked as OK. Is this normal?
View 1 RepliesThe Truck: 94 F-150 XLT 5-speed 300-I6
The Problem: AC blowing hot air.
What I've done: Start the truck, look at the compressor, (looks like it's spinning to me), engage the AC, look again (yep the pully on the compressor is still spinning).
And that's pretty much where i stopped, cause i don't know what i'm looking for, should i be seeing it not spin if it where seized, and whats next on the list to check.
I assume that it's not seized at this point and it must be something else, like a control, keeping it from working.
I have a 99 f350 7.3 diesel. The AC clutch cycles on for 3-4 turns and then off for 45 sec. It the does it again. The low side starts to cool down and then the clutch quits. as the truck warms up the clutch quits completely. it will restart for a few times if I push in on the elec conn on the ac clutch. My Ac has quit cooling and summer is almost here.
View 1 Replies2002 - f250... I originally posted this issue in July of '03. Nothing has changed.
1. At max ac, regardless of how hot it is, the ac clutch cycles due to low pressure once the cabin temp reaches about 78 degrees. This is not acceptable or expected in my opinion.
2. I have run extensive tests, done this for years, and the conclusion is that there is too much pressure drop in the evaporator. I'm seeing 5-7 psi drop measured using a Fluke digital temp probe, insulating the probe tip around the pipe. Compare outlet of orifice tube several as far away from orifice as possible and comparing to outlet temp of evaporator where it comes out of the plastic shrowd. Convert temp to pressure.
I've seen many posts over the years of people not happy with '99 to '04 ford truck ac operation at cruising speed. I have confirmed that the compressor is cycling way too much to cool the cab down. I even ran an experiment where I completely blocked the condensor to raise the head pressure and the compressor still cycked at 1500 rpm's with the cab above 75 degrees on a 90+ degree day.
My next step is to blow out the evaporator and see how much oil and junk I get out of it. I'm also considering taking the evaporator out and trimming the rubber gasket that is around it. It is blocking about an inch of the coil face all the way around.
My conclusion still is that the evaporator just isn't loading up enough as if it's partially clogged. There is only about 2 psi drop between the outlet of the evaporator and the compressor.
The compressor cuts out at 21 psi so the low pressure cutout switch is working properly.
What should I use to flush the evaporator out? Will mineral spirits do it as long as I blow it out real well and make sure I get all of it out? Also wondering if I should blow out the condensor thinking maybe there is something clogging it up.
In spite of some folks on this forum saying it is normal for the compressor to cycle at cruising speed, that is a correct statement depending on many factors. In my case, the cycling is not normal or expected. I have also tried:
1. VOV
2. Larger orifice
3. 14 oz charge over what the sticker says
My cluch is almost 2 years old and gets treated with kid gloves , I shift low in the RPM's And accelerate slow for smooth shifting and fuel savings (17mpg avg.). But as of yesterday I can here the gears wind up after I push the clutch in. No problems with power or gear handling , Just the sound of the gear(s) (low dry rev/wind sound) No visible leaks , Clutch has oil at the step mark. Also - I can Make The Trans create the same sound if I keep the clutch petal in and rev the engine.
View 3 RepliesSo among the other annoyances my 92 Ranger 4.0 auto has it has a hesitation before it starts spinning the tires under full throttle from a dead stop. It's the 4.0 automatic. I thought it would have more power than it actually does being use to a 2.5 auto. But this 92 4.0 runs and drives good. I've gotten it tuned up with new motorcraft wires, plugs, new coil, fuel filter, fuel pump assembly, fuel pressure regulator, air filter, idle air valve, new O2 sensor, new Dynomax muffler. I can't find any vacuum leaks. The engine idles slightly rough after you start it up from it sitting for a few hours, but quickly smooths out as soon as you start driving it.
This one here has no EGR. Transmission feels good, may have even been replaced by previous owner before we got it. It shifts good and the fluid is clean and the transmission is the cleanest part under the whole truck. No way of knowing for sure. The truck currently has 111,000 miles and I did all that stuff when we got it at 101,000 miles. So what could it be? I'm thinking a lazy injector or could it be the catalytic converter? Or could it be the throttle body? I know I once had a BBK throttle body on it and it made the world of difference in off the line power but it kept throwing too rich/lean condition and a TPS code so I had to return it. It sucks because it did wake up the motor. I returned it and since then the Check Engine Light hasn't come back on.
I Turn On The A/C To Max On My 2001 Blazer and A/C Clutch Will Not Spin. My Freon Is Full. How Do I fix This.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1995 4X4 Chevy Silverado. Well tonight the lower radiator hose came off, and all the coolant drained out while my wife was driving it around town. She noticed that the temp gauge spiked, and tried to get home. The truck stalled, was able to restart it for a moment, stalled again and now when we try to start it up there is a low spinning noise coming from the area around the starter. I think it might be the starter trying to engage the flywheel. My question is whether or not this could because the motor has seized, or is there another symptom that could potentially make this noise.
View 1 RepliesSo, I have a 4.9l 1995 F150 equipped with the E4OD trans. Lately, noticed over the last two or three days, the vehicle does not want to accelerate under WOT. I can hear the RPMs of the engine increasing, but the vehicle speed will remain the same; it will do this in any gear.
I checked my fluid color and level in the trans, and all was in fine. There was no discoloration or odor, nor was the fluid low at all. I'm wondering if this is a torque convertor issue, or a problem with the clutches slipping.
Mind you, my truck just hit 70k, so this isn't a high mileage vehicle. Under light load, or throttle, the vehicle will shift fine through all gears. However, if I try to accelerate heavily, or go WOT, I get nowhere. It feels like slipping.
Someone recommended that I pull codes; they are as follows:
KOEO 33--EGR did not open
Continuous 28--VAT sensor out of range
Engine Running 63--TPS too low
26--MAF or VAF out of range
32--EVP/EGR not responding during test
My plans are to check for codes again, fluid and filter change, and then see what is going on. Would an 8 hour road-trip at close to 80mph have caused this, because after getting back I noticed this problem.
'99 Frontier (3.3L), 140k miles. Just had fan clutch, radiator and belts replaced. Now noticing that the a/c compressor clutch (pictured below) is noisy when the 3 discs stop spinning while I'm driving...it's a noticeable "clack" sound that I can hear with the windows UP.... is this normal? Is there any cure, like lubrication it needs? I pushed on the belts a bit, they don't seem too tight....
View 2 RepliesMy 95 f150 stalls in reverse. It goes fine forward and idles fine in reverse but if I give it quite a bit of gas it starts stalling. We've put a new mlps and that didn't fix it. Then they thought it was the convertor so I got the trans rebuilt and still no change. I'm about to pull my hair out over this deal. I don't even have enough power to back up a trailer or back up a hill.
View 11 RepliesMy f150 looses power and sputters when it warms up. Let it cool off and it runs great until it warms up again. Check engine light comes on every now and then but not every time.
View 12 RepliesHere's the breakdown. I have a '95 Ford F150 that I bought the previous year and it has been nothing but a problem. The most recent problem is the attempt to turn on the headlights. I will pull the plunger to turn on the headlights but I will only get the parking lights and when attempting to turn on the high beams I still get nothing. The only way that I get any sort of lighting is if I pull on the turning stick (almost like doing a manual override on a tripped wall plugin). Now here's the kicker. I still have parking lights, brake, tail, cab, and dash lights. Winter in quickly approaching and the nights are already getting dark, pretty soon the days will be just as dark.
View 3 RepliesI have the above vechicle with a straight six engine and with 100,000+ miles and have a problem that has been ongoing for sometime and am totally confused as to what to do. The pickup starts great in the morning and idles fine. No roughness during accelleration or anything while idling. I take my daughter to the bus stop and seems to be running fine. When I drop her off and drive for a short while the engine gives a bucking kind of sensation. This happens at the low end of the "Normal" range of the temperature gauge and apparent when driving around 40 - 45 mph. I think that it may slightly be running a bit rough at freeway speeds but I cannot for sure tell (Idaho roads are not the smoothest. ha). When the engine gets warmer it doesn't seem to be happening.
What could be causing this? I gave it a tune up before (OEM plugs, wires, rotor, cap) and it still happend. I made sure everything was even Motorcraft to see if that had anything to do with it! My nephew replaced the hoses at the top of the engine (I think they are return hoses) because they were bad but still having problems.
I think my E4OD in my 95 f150 is slipping in 4th gear. Just started the last couple of days, the engine rpms stay steady but the speedometer bounces around 3 to 5 mph. Thinking rebuild of the trans....
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