Ford A/C :: 1995 - Compressor Failure / Replacement
Apr 18, 2009
95 Bronc with a compressor failure. It sat up about a year and when i put it back on the road the AC Clutch failed so I replaced it in the hopes that maybe it was just a clutch. With the new clutch is made progressively louder racket so I stopped using it until the other day when the new clutch failed (I briefly turned it on).
I think it is time to replace the compressor. In researching the compressors I noticed that there are varied makes so I have a question as to which brand compressor to buy. Here are my options:
O'Reilly - Motorcraft - Assume FS10 - 283.99
Autozone - Ready Aire - FS10 - 235.99
Autozone - Compressor Works - FS10 - 179.99
Autozone - Compressor Works - SD709 - 247.99
Autozone - Denso - FS10 - 259.99
NAPA - Visteon - FS10 - 301.00
NAPA - (unknown) - SD709 - 409.00
ACKITS - Unicla - FS10 - 236.35
Do I get the FS10 or the SD709 (I assume Super Duty)? How can I identify which compressor my Bronc came with from the factory (FS10 or SD709)? I live in Texas so strong cooling is imperative. Should I even consider buying a remanufactured compressor (the ones listed above are all new)?
I typically stay away from getting parts from Autozone because I have found the parts that they sell to generally be of poor quality.
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I'm in the process of replacing the engine in my 97 E-350 Chateau 6.8 v10. The a/c system was in need of attention before my engine exploded at 143,000 miles. The a/c system at that time was showing signs of impending compressor failure. Many parts of my a/c system were removed to facilitate engine swap so it is completely evacuated. I'm replacing the compressor, accumulator, both expansion valves and flushing the rest of the components outside of the vehicle.
I have purchased all the replacement part but have questions on the proper sequences of events replacing the PAG 46 into the system. My a/c system calls for 13oz of oil and 64oz coolant and I did not measure any oil that was lost during removal. I have access to a vacuum pump and a/c gauges. I have been searching the internet yet haven't found a site that deals specifically with my circumstances. I'm eager to learn.
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I have a 1995 Ford Windstar. When I turn on the air conditioning, the compressor clutch does not engage despite having sufficient refrigerant in the system. Jumping current directly to the compressor clutch will engage the clutch, so it's not the clutch. I suspect the relay for the compressor clutch inside the CCRM may be bad, but am not sure how to test it. I have a Haynes repair manual, but how to test this device?
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I have a 2007 BMW 328xi with only 46000 miles. About three weeks ago, I heard some pumping noise under the hood so I drove the car to a repair shop for estimation. I was told that the AC compressor stopped working. When I drove out of the repair shop about 5 miles, the car stopped running and was towed back to that repair store. After the new AC compressor was installed, the car still could not be started. It was then towed to dealership. Now I was told that the AC compressor failure caused engine chain problem, to fix it. Does it make sense? How AC problem can cause engine problem?
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Just got a weird chemical smell on my way back from lunch and the a/c stopped working. Pulled up to the garage and there was a smell of burning under the hood, plus a fairly loud hum, and also these weird noises that sounded like electrical discharges from underneath.
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I have a F150, 97, 4.6L. I changed my Suspension belt, and now my A/C compressor is not engaging. This has happened before, and when I took it to the shop, they called me and said the A/C works just fine. They did not tell me why the A/C stopped engaging or what they did. I tried to locate a relay fuse, but I can't find it.
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I have a 95 stang that I just had refilled with Freon and oil at Ice Cold Air. The compressor turns on then cuts off as if its low on Freon but its not. Last night the ac started blowing cold and was this morning then started back on the compressor turning on then off. I know it has Freon in it and is full. Could it be that the orifice tube is clogged or maybe even the drier? is this something that I could take off and try to clean out?
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Well my problem isn't a new one. My bonny - will stall at about anytime and anywhere - and yes various power ckts will also fail at the same time. I have cleaned every power connection that I can find. Several threads here have listed answers to this problem - One guy rebuilt his starter - another person found the problem in some wiring on the drivers side of the car in some shorted wiring. Some ignition modules and or coils have been replaced (do these drop out the power rail when they fail????) Interestingly enough I did not find any threads that indicated that cleaning power connections fixed the problem - Also, no one indicated that replacing their alternator fixed the problem. One guy did replace a battery with a leaky cell - he also replaced a neutral safety switch. I don't know which of those actions actually solved his problem. Since so many people have had a stalling problem and a power accessory problem at the same time (especially on 1994 and 95 models)- I thought it would be a good place to start a sort of clearinghouse where a collection of potential repairs could be cataloged. So if you have had a stalling and power accessory problem at the same time.
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Need to replace the ac compressor bearing/pulley on my 2001 f350 7.3. My question is do I need a special tool like a pulley puller or is there another way to remove pulley? I already have the clutch assembly removed as well.
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How do you replace the rear axle seal in a 1995 F150?
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Looking for instructions on how to replace the A/C compressor and all the parts needed to do a good job?
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1995 Aurora Remote entry fails. Keys were in pocket and I got wet while surf fishing... It worked last night coming home but this morning it fails to open doors or trunk.. I checked batteries,, 3 volts each... Did I short out the unit?? How can I check that out and if so, other than a dealer where can I find a new remote entry device...What has to be done to the unit to tune it to my car..
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I am driving a 95 ranger xlt extended cab with a 3.0 two wheel drive with an automatic transmission. the two piece drive shaft with the carrier bearing went bad at the bearing. i separate the u-joint just after the bearing and was going to remove the nut holding the bearing housing together but cannot get the nut off. now i'm also finding out that i need a bearing puller to remove the damaged bearing from the 1st drive shaft.
Its turning into something i may not be able to finish. i saw on line an idea where a guy replaced the 2 piece shaft with a one piece. he states that a 1 piece drive shaft, 1998 or newer would work and no need for this bearing. you have to remove the cross member. it sound easier than what i'm trying to do. i looked at some old posts and galleries but did not see an article. here is a link to his website: How-To: Swapping a 2-Piece Drive Shaft for a 1-Piece in a 1983-1997 Ford Ranger
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My ICE failed to start on a wooded forest road -- after the car had sat under a fir tree for a day or three it ended up starting and all the warning lights went away. I ended up taking it to the dealer though and while they replaced a leaking water pump, never found any cause for the ICE failure.
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Received these warning lights this morning.
Just took it to a local shop and here are the codes it has thrown:
The car is running badly now -- really not wanting to drive t at all. Where I can get this fixed myself? I have no problem single charging / grid charging / balancing these things out and or replacing hopefully only "block 8" as denoted above. And yes, this is the nightmare of having you battery go out -- 160k miles right now so no chance of warranty.
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Had the Check Hybrid System and master warning light come on today. Took it to the dealer, who, after a couple hours, told me that my "Hybrid Water Pump" needed to be replaced.
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I have an 05 Prius which had no significant problems until the HV battery died this past Feb. Two days later, I'm on the highway and lose power, manage to get the car to an off ramp. Have it towed to a dealer where the power failure pulled up code DTC P3190 and I was told that the car was simply car out of gas. The car was at 3 pips without any indicator going off but after consulting this forum I thought "Okay, maybe this is just the new normal." Filled my car with 5 gallons worth of gas which topped it off (?) and went on my way.
I'll add here for lack of a better place that with the new battery the car has not ever seemed to accelerate cleanly - always feels like there's some resistance on the accelerator when trying to go above 50 on the highway.
Cut to yesterday - I lost power on the highway 3 miles from home with the car at 7 pips (!). I had only put 130 miles on the car since last filling the tank so I can *not* imagine this is a fuel issue. And, worse than ever before, this time when the engine failed I had only about 1000 feet to get over to the shoulder. I did manage to get over safely (for those in SoCal, this was on the 5 North and I narrowly missed blocking the ramps to the 134). To make matters even worse it rush hour in 95+ heat, and I was pinned in my car for 20 minutes (traffic on one side, retaining wall on the other) until the tow truck arrived. I cannot have this happen again.
I had the car towed to the dealer this morning. When the car was picked up the car was at 7 pips in my driveway. The dealer states when the car was dropped of there it was at 1 pip, and sent me a picture of the odometer to verify. Wth?!
How is this possible? How could the gauge have dropped so rapidly? Is there a legitimate way the fuel indicator could have dropped so much or is the dealer scamming me? And what could be be wrong? The AAA driver this morning said they should have replaced the accessory battery when they replaced the hybrid battery, and perhaps that was the source of the problem?
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I have 2012 Impala and hit a pot hole blowing out the left front tire but rim was not damaged, replaced the tire. Now the shop tells me that the wheel bearing has been damaged and the hub/bearing assembly needs to be replaced. I've never seen this happen. Is it possible that the bearing got damaged?
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After 9 solid years of service, my a/c compressor finally failed. According to the shop, its leaking at the center seam of the compressor. If the system is charged, then the compressor will operate until the low pressure switch shuts it down. My question is this: Can this compressor be rebuilt? If so, where can I get the parts (I'm assuming the shaft seal is leaking).
Also, a quick search on eBay provides several compressors that fit my car; however, some of them are listed as HS-17 compressors and others are HS-18. My car (according to the A/C sticker on the hood) says I have an HS-18 compressor. Are these two interchangeable? I'm asking because if the current compressor can't be rebuilt, then I will have to buy either a reman. or new unit.
Car: 2002 Hyundai Santa Fe, GLS, 2.7L V6
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