Ford A/C :: 1993 - Air Conditioning System Won't Working Properly?
Jul 27, 2015
Last year I literally replaced the entire A/C system in my 93 F150. (The compressor, the hoses and the evaporator were leaking and I toyed with converting it to 134A so I went ahead and replaced the condenser and all the rest of the parts. I ended up putting R12 back in it since I have a tank.)
I replaced everything, added oil, pulled a vacuum, leak tested it, and charged it back with 2.75 lbs of R12. The A/C worked then (and now) but it was not really cold. I got busy and did not have time to trouble shoot it until this weekend and the pressures and clutch cycle times were withing spec according to the repair manual - air was in the low 90's so the clutch was on constantly, low side pressure in the low 40s and high side in the 180s. The inside center vent air temperature never got below 60 after about a half hour of running on max. It eventually gets the inside temperature cool but not very quickly and certainly not enough to make me take it off high.
I thought maybe the blend door was not closing so I took the glove box apart and can hear the blend door slamming in both the full cold and full hot positions so unless the door has a hole in it or there is some other path around the heater core, I don't think this is the problem. I also double checked the orifice tube and I had used the blue one that again the repair manual calls for. What could be keeping the A/C from working???
View 1 Replies
Advertisement
Been having an issue lately with the AC system on my 2010 4.6L F150. The AC system is not working properly and is only blowing air the same temp as outside. In other words, if its 60 degrees in the morning the AC will blow cool, but later in the day its blowing warm. Pushes air no problem, but living in Florida, it's mainly warm air. Compressor clutch is kicking on and off fairly rapidly when on max AC setting (5-10 seconds on, then 5-10 seconds off). Hooked up gauge to low pressure side and the readings were 60psi WITH compressor on, then fell to 30psi when the compressor turns off. Where to start? Haven't done too many AC fixes before. Potentially a bad compressor? Overcharged lines?
View 7 Replies
My 2000 Ford Ranger 4x4 truck's anti-lock braking system is not working properly. When I slow down for a stop my anti-lock brakes kick in every time for about 1 or 2 seconds. What can I do to stop this from happening.
View 2 Replies
I have had my T-Reg for 2 weeks now, and absolutely love it! However, there are some strange things I have found with the Nav System that are just a bit annoying.
1) Not all cities are on the CD. This is obvious - they can't put *all* the cities on, but there has been more than one occassion where the city I needed was not in there. For instance, I tried to find "Centerville, VA" but the Nav System only knew "Clifton, VA" (I guess they are the same), which ultimately became "Fairfax, VA." I didn't realize it was "Clifton" until I arrived there (following a map) and saw a sign.
2) There are two sections of major roads that I travel (Rte. 95 and Rte. 66) where the Nav system stops giving me directions to my destination. It tracks my position on the map as I am driving, so I know I have a fix on at least 3 satellites, but when I press the "i" button for my next cue, it says something like "Routing to your destination is not available from this location." The blue line on the display that shows where I should be going also is missing. Once I exit either of these major roads (in the areas that this occurs) the Nav System resumes guidance.
3) The map display on the Nav System is always "behind" by 10 or 15 seconds. When I cross a roadway, the map doesn't indicate my crossing until a good 10 or 15 seconds later, depending on my speed. The turn-by-turn display and voice prompts are *dead on*, it is just the map that isn't.
View 6 Replies
I have a 2004 bought in 2003. It recently logged its first 100k miles. My problem with it is not easy to describe. It is actually running more like a non-hybrid car. I can feel and tell the hybrid system is operational, and I can hear the electric motor whine when coasting, down, etc. However, I don't think it is running as it should or as it used to. It happened on highway while cruising about 70 mph. I hit the accelerator to pass someone, and I felt that something changed. I'll try to describe it: think of a half-clogged pipe. The water can barely gets past the obstruction. You keep applying pressure, and suddenly the clog dissolves under pressure, and water begins to flow freely, and the pressure goes down. So it felt like that. Now the accelerator pedal is lighter, car is faster to respond, yet I think something is wrong because the car isn't itself anymore.
I don't like problems like these because they are very difficult to diagnose, let alone fix. For a while I also have not heard the inverter pump whine after shutting the car off as I did in the past, but the last time I got out of the car today I heard it. I believe it was replaced five years ago after a collision with a Trailblazer wiped out half of the front end ( but with no power train damage). I checked the VIN for the inverter pump campaign, but my VIN was not in the range.
Right now my problem is that the car feels a lot faster than it has ever been. When I lift off the accelerator, it doesn't begin to coast as it used to. No warning light of any kind out of the ordinary is present on the dash, although it did have the red triangle on during start up with a message about the parking gear not being engaged properly. That warning went away after the change in performance occurred. Related?
I guess I will take it to the dealer to see if there are any codes stored. After my 30 mile commute this morning, no whining, buzzing or any kind of noise was present after I shut off the car and I got out. There is still no warning light.
View 14 Replies
Had this car for two years and I love it, but the central locking has been a bit glitchy since I bought it. Sometimes it works perfectly for weeks.
Sometimes it unlocks the driver door just fine, but a second click of the button won't open the other doors.
On a couple of occasions (today was the second time) it won't unlock any door. If I use the keyhole in the driver door to unlock that door, I have to hold the key to force the lock to stay up while I pull open the door with the other hand. If I let go of the key, it relocks itself.
After I manually unlocked and opened the driver door, I reached in and pressed the button on the console. It would not unlock the doors. This car has only one door keyhole, the one on the driver door. Locking always works on all doors, and it locks the doors itself as it should as I take off down the street.
When it is misbehaving, it misbehaves with either key and the console button does not work either, so I am pretty sure the problem not the transmitter.
If it always behaved as it did today, I would suspect that the microswitch in the driver door was shorting, and telling the system that the key was in the door and turned full right all the time. However, that would not explain why the usual failure is to open the driver door but not the others. Where is the receiver for the remote lock control?
View 4 Replies
I have purchased a new 2013 XC60 and the seat and mirror memories associated with my keyless Personal Car Communicator (PCC) system are not working properly and the dealer is apparently at a loss as to how to fix it. What is even worse, Volvo's documentation on the capability is contradictory and no one from Volvo (including National Tech Support) is able to explain how it is supposed to work.
The total problem is much too complicated to explain here in detail, but basically the driver's seat and side rear view mirrors do not respond to the PCC (key fob) in a predictable manner. One time use of a particular PCC will result in the seat and mirrors going to one location, and the next time they will go to a different location. Use of the buttons on the PCC will produce one result and use of the keyless capability with the same PCC will produce a different result.
I have determined that the settings saved in the seat memory buttons (there are 3 of them) sometimes play a part in where the seat and mirrors go when the PCC is used despite the Volvo documentation insisting that these memories are separate from each other.
Volvo Tech Support insists that they have no history of problems in this area but discussions with other customers, and even some of the Volvo sales people, make it clear that I am not the only one experiencing these issues.
Although the memory settings would normally just be considered a convenience option, I have found the issue to be a safety concern. On more than one occasion I was on the road before realizing that my rear view mirrors were pointed off in space somewhere and I could not use them to make a safe lane change or other maneuver.
A side observation is that the computer based functions in the car appear sluggish and seem many times to operate with a lag. I know that this car contains almost two dozen processor modules and maybe this topic deserves a separate thread, but it is as if the communications network is very slow or the modules are slow in waking up. I'm wondering if this is involved with the unpredictable seat and mirror memory operation.
I would like to hear from others who have had or are having similar problems.
View 5 Replies
When i purchased the yaris ZR they had none with the Suna Audio and navigation system so they said they will ship the device in and then install it when they finally had it.... So I was driving this one around with the default device in or awhile. Everything was working fine, audio, messaging, calling and listen for a while. Everything was working fine, audio, messaging, calling and listening to podcasts ad audiobooks through apps on my phone. I am using the Samsung Galaxy S5 Everything has been updated and using all relevant updated software.
When they said it was finally in, i brought my car in and after a few issues and shipping the wrong parts I finally got it. (I was driving the latest Corolla in the meantime)
Bluetooth is cutting out every 2 minutes (and halfway through at about 1 minute there is a glitchy/pause/lag) .... It keeps saying something like "Connection with the mobile telephone has been disconnected" and my audio stops playing. It takes about 15 seconds to reconnect. And then i have to push the Audio power button twice to get back to listening to my media. Phone is fully charged, and plugged in. There are no distractions from anything else (The Original old device that came with it never did this). You can't play audio via USB with an android device on either this one or the old one so that option is out.
Messaging is not working - Worked fine in the old/original device on the Yaris and the Corollas I was using, when i got a text, it beeped and read it out - and i could quick reply with automated messages (if the car was not moving). Now, when I try to load them a message just stays on this screen for about 5 minutes then disappears - nothing happens. "Retrieving messages please wait....."
View 1 Replies
Trying to track down an air conditioning problem. Seems like a vacuum leak somewhere is screwing with my AC and shutting it down upon giving it any throttle (hills etc). Where should I look first or is there a certain area that is prone to leaks?...truck is a stock 1993 F-350 460/auto.
View 1 Replies
Last spring i purchased an 08 600hl. This is my first winter with this car and I have come across an issue. when it is extremely cold like it has been for the past few days the heating system for the interior of the car does not seem to be working properly. when i warm up the car and put on the heat it blows cold air. It is only when I am driving that the heat comes on. While i am driving at a moderate speed the heat works fine. However, when i drive slow, such as driving around a parking lot and its only running on hybrid battery power, it starts to blow cold air again. When i put the car in park and its only running off the battery i only blows cold air even on the "HI" temperature. I have the rev the engine to get the heat to kick in and then it will stay on. This is and issue or a normal behavior for this car.
View 6 Replies
I drove the truck yesterday and a few miles from the house i noticed the air conditioning wasn't working. After realizing it wasn't working i turned it off and continued on my 30 minute drive. When i arrived to my destination i opened the hood and watched the A/C compressor pulley as the wife turned the A/C on. The clutch was working as it should, and the engine rpm increased slightly with the load of the A/C as usual. The air coming from the vents was not cooled at all.
After talking with a few people at work they seem to think it's a mechanical issue, ie: the heater core isn't switching the louver from heat to A/C. I am going to do some investigating this weekend and will post my results.
View 6 Replies
I have a 93 Jeep Cherokee, I just replaced the thermostat and the radiator cap, it's not overheating, however the radiator cap isn't even warming up and the thermostat housing heats up quite a bit.
The hose from the radiator to the thermostat gets very hot, but I don't feel anything being pumped. The coolant is also being drained from the reservoir, but I see little to none leaking underneath the vehicle. I pop off the radiator cap while it's in idle and see no movement and the coolant stays cool.
View 2 Replies
2010 Prius IV - when I have my ac system off and outside air on the system seems to heat the air to whatever the temperature was last set at? This should be a vent condition and air should be coming in from the outside even if the air outside is 50 degrees and the system was set at 70 when it was last on? The system seems to be heating this air. If I turn the system on and reset the temp lower, then turn the system off the air comes out cooler? Why is this?
View 5 Replies
So I got in my truck yesterday and i started it like normal and turned air on. The air will not blow out of the vents but only the defrost vents. I have checked all vacuum lines and good, my 4x4 engages and no issue with it locking in. I am Puzzled on what it could be?
View 3 Replies
I own a 2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 OHV V6. What would cause the heat to not work properly? The engine temp gets into the operating range as it should and the coolant flows well. I'm just not getting more than 10 degrees above outdoor air from the heater.It doesn't matter where the controls are set, anywhere from defrost to vent makes no difference.
View 5 Replies
As summer hit WI, I noticed that the a/c did not really work. At most it takes the humidity out of the cabin air and it does blow somewhat cooler air when the car is driving vs. idling. Our mechanic added freon and a dye to try and trace the problem. The added freon worked for about 2 weeks (but still not back to working like regular) and then it petered out.
View 2 Replies
My van has quit me finally. It only has 98,000 original miles on it. Right now the car really smells like it is loading up and not properly burning fuel. Also a huge amount of white smoke is coming from the exhaust pipe. The oil pressure is good. could it be as simple as new plugs and plug wires, coil pack etc.
View 3 Replies
Why my air conditioner stopped working (no blower, no cold air, nothing happens when I turn on the air cond) ?
View 1 Replies
I have a 2008 that I bought brand new, it now has about 60,000 miles on it and the air conditioning is not cutting it in the Chicago summer. Would it now be time to have it recharged? Is there modification to make it more powerful?
View 19 Replies
2001 jetta 4 dr. 2.0 gas
The other day I was driving and the air just quit. No screeches bangs or anything. I checked all the fuses and realized my main fan wasn't working.
I replaced both fans but still no air. When I push the button on the dash for recirculate my brake light on the instrument panel comes on.
View 1 Replies
I had a new condenser put in last summer and the aircon has worked fine since then. Hot weather last week, aircon worked for a few days, then suddenly not working any more. The ac magnetic clutch is kicking in, the fuses all seem ok, I removed the low and high pressure caps and there seems to be a bit of freon fizzing on the valve after I removed the caps so I assume pressure is ok (don't have gauges -maybe Ill buy on ebay). Is there a low pressure switch that I can bypass to see if that makes it work?? or something else I can do? I assume if the clutch is kicking in and there is no squealing, that the compressor is probably ok?
View 6 Replies
