Ford A/C :: 1992 F150 - Blower Motor Air Output Not Enough
Dec 28, 2009
My 92 F-150 my heater blower motor doesn't put out enough air like my 2003 Lightning blower motor does.... So I figured after all these years that I would put a new heater blower motor in, well it's the same hear output and there's no debris in the heating ducts and the cable lever is working fine to close the blend door, so I guess maybe it's normal for these 92-96 F-150 trucks to have mediocre heating output ;-( Is there a bigger motor I could put in to get more heat..... The resistor is fine to, it works on all speeds.....
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I've read quite a few threads on this subject and came across the resistor, fuses, and relays. I have some fundamental testing procedure questions.
1. To test the resistor, it says to back probe the brown/orange wire to check for voltage. So I'm assuming I would hook up my positive lead, here?
Do I really need to hook up the black lead all the way to the negative terminal on the battery? Just with a long extension? Or is there somewhere else I can hook the black lead to? (I know, how dumb!)
2. I downloaded owners manual, but I can't seem to find a fuse or relay specifically for the blower, so what fuse and what relay is it?
3. In the Haynes manual, it says locate the blower motor relay, in the relay box under the center dash panel, where the hell is that?
4. Do I need to remove the glove box to access the resistor and blower hosting.
5. Anything else I should know?
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My 92 f150 has been running rough at around 30 to 40 mph and around 60 and 70. It has a 5.9 v8. I have recently replaced the plugs, plug wires, dis cap, and fuel filter without it solving this problem at all. Someone said this could be my transmission or throttle body.
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I have a 92 ford f150 that ran great up until I was driving the other day and my trucks engine just shut off, like i turned the key off. It wouldn't restart. Towed it home, let it sit, and tried again..cranks fine, still wont start. replaced the coil.. Cranked it for about 5 min off and on and it barely started.. Let it run for about 5 min and shut it off, wouldn't restart. Replaced the icm....and again, cranked until it barely started, then it wouldn't restart. Today I replaced the ignition switch, and the cap n rotor. Now It'll crank for days..but still not starting. I have 40 lbs fuel pressure at the rail, plugs, wires ,all new. new fuel pumps also....
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So I got four new tires on my 92 f150. A day after driving it around. My hub starts going bad. That same day. I notice three wheels studs are broken. So I'm wondering if not tightening or over tightening cussed this. It was great before I took in for new tires. Then a day later my hub goes out. I put 60 miles on the new tires.
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1992 f150 4.9L, bought it a couple of months ago knowing the ac wasn't working PO had it converted to 134, said it worked great until they put on the bodylift. Compressor clutch is working, I'm sure I have some blend door issues but I've bypassed the heater for now.
AC on max, outside temp 85*, engine off high/low at 100psi, engine at idle low 55psi high 125psi, center vent reads 93*. When engine at apox. 1800-2000 rpm, low 35, high 180, center vent reads 85*.
My guess is the compressor is worn out. Is there another way to test? If I do replace what else do I need to replace? I'm hoping there's something else I can do/check before replacing the compressor.
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This just recently started happening just shy of 200k miles, 14 years. While driving down the road, suddenly notice a power loss or no power, i.e., no motor output. Sometimes the just the ICE won't accelerate, sometimes it's both ICE and Electric motive force. When this occurs, the Brake and ABS check lights turn on. After a few seconds, to 10's of seconds, then the motive power reenables and the Brake/ABS lights go out. Often the cars continues on with no repeat. Testing over a few drives, it seemed to only do it during the warmup cycle when coolant was near 160-170.
However on a drive in the afternoon after it occurred in the morning; with ambient around 30 degrees, windows cracked, interior heat off, it didn't occur on the 15 minute drive, mostly freeway speed, even after about 10 minutes and cranking interior heat on. No codes are registered when this happens. I used Torque Pro and monitored things like throttle position and such, and things there seemed normal. Eng rpm dropped under 1000rpm and wasn't steady. Watching the MFG the power flows responded to the throttle (pushed/released) as if the engine was still doing what was asked (go figure, the display shows what is commanded, not what is occurring?).
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Subject : Vehicle 1992 Ford Truck F-150 300cu. inch
Problem : Electrical
Description : Engine would stop running and as long the key switch was in the on position the electrical fuel pump would keep running and the end result would be a gas flooded engine. There was no way to predict when or where this occurrence would happen. It may be at a busy intersection or immediately after start up in the early morning. It may do this two or three times a week and then go a month without doing this, just about the time I thought everything was alright it would start up again.
I used just about every mechanic I could think of to diagnosis the problem. The fuel pressure switches were changed, map sensor, computer board, new distributor coil and module.A new alternator was also put on the truck to no avail.This truck was taken to a ford dealer garage. In my mind this would the the "Mayo clinical" for a sick Ford vehicle. The truck stayed there for about two weeks and left with the same problem it had arrived with.
Not long afterwards it came into my mind to install a new Ignition coil . That fixed the problem ! The truck ran good for about three months and then started the same thing again. I knew I was on top of the problem. I then put an old used Ignition coil on and it lasted about two weeks. Again resulting in the same problem. I then bought an expensive coil made in the USA "Blue Streak Brand". That has been about 5 years ago. The truck has never caused me any problems since.
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Situation is I have a 92 F150 2WD donor truck. 5.8l will be going into my 80 F150 4X4. E4OD transmission is long gone, but I do have a 4R70W from a 96 Explorer. Bolting it together is no problem, but there are differences in the transmission controls. E4OD uses a coast clutch, 4R70W does not. EPC, shift solenoids and TCC are compatible. I do not want to use a 5.0l PCM or add external controllers like the Baumannator.
Question is, can I control the 4R70W with the PCM that comes with the 5.8l?
I'm thinking I can ignore the coast clutch output, maybe tie it to +12 through a resistor if that makes the PCM happy. Baumann's controller appears to work with E4OD's as well as 4R70w's doing exactly this. Baumannator TCS Electronic Transmission Wiring Details....
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1992 Ford 150 4wd ... Starting sequence turns over very slowly when ignition is activated. Starter, Battery, Plugs have been tested. Spark has been checked and is active at ignition sequence. Could this be an amperage draw when ignition is activated due to a short in ignition circuit?
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I have an '02 F150 XL. 200k miles. My a/c blows cold, and I have every fan speed, but it just doesn't blow very hard. I replaced the blower motor thinking that would work, but that did nothing. I've been told to clean the evaporator core, but I don't know where that is. How to do that, as well as any other part causing the problem.
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I have a 92 f150 w 302 . My front tank leaks out of the gas cap and builds up pressure. Even though I have never put fuel in it (owned it 7 mos). I siphon fuel out of it weekly. If I switch from rear to front. The truck stalls out.
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I have an '03 Ford F150 with the Triton motor. About 2 weeks ago it started acting like the motor was "cutting out". We changed fuel filters, got a fresh full service, got the alternator checked and did visual on the drive line and rear end ( did have a mechanic check it also). The "check engine" light does not come on while it is acting up (it does light when starting so I know the light works). At first the truck only acted up when it was good and warmed up, but now does it all the time.
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Well my blower motor only blows on high which IMO points to the resistor, went and bought one and still only blows on high. Tried to test the plug that goes to the resistor but couldn't get anything, shouldn't there be 12v going to the plug and then step down to the resistor until high is selected then 12v bypasses the resistor all together? Blows strong and cold, too cold actually since we cant turn the blower down so we have to turn it off for a few minutes.
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I have a Full Size 93, 5.8L Van. The blower motor has stopped working. I have checked the fuzes, ok. I have checked the Power Distrubution Box, ok. I do have power to my Aux (rear) blower. I have hot wired my blower motor, it works. I have no power to the blower motor, thermal limiter, or to the fan control switch on the dash. (Like I said, the Aux on the dash works). What else is there?
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My mom has a 1988 350 Econoline van chasis that is a motorhome class C.
The front heater/AC blower motor only works when it wants to. It starts very intermittently and then shuts off then you go down the road a little more and it comes back on, it will do the same thing sitting in the driveway just idling. There is no timing it, it just turns on when it wants to and then back off again.
I checked the fuses and the fuses are fine. The blower motor when hooked up directly to the battery blows fine. When it isnt working of course there is no juice going to the blower motor through the hotwire of the blower motor, I have checked this with my volt meter.
I did replace the switch that turns the blower on in the dahs, and it didnt do the trick.
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I'm looking for information and possible photo location for the blower motor resistor. My truck has climate control. I've looked under the dash on the passenger side and behind the glove box door and I've been unable to spot the location. Do I have to remove the plastic panel behind the glove box?
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How to remove the blower motor switch on my 99 F150 without breaking anything.
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Have a 2009 platinum, 5.4, supercrew with dualzone heating and air. The blower motor resistor block is overheating and melting the connector block. fooled with it way too much, and then put a new resistor and pigtail in it. The new resistor would kick out in about 30 seconds, so used the old resistor on the new pigtail, got hot, melted the new pigtail. What is causing the resistor block to get so hot, and what do I do about it?
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I'm having some trouble with the front blower fan on my 97 Aerostar 3.0, it will only intermittently work, one time we had it running, lifted up the hood on the van, checked the connection to the motor, looked good, dropped the hood and the fan immediately started working again, I'm wonder if the relay might be starting to go bad, the fan in the back works, so I'm not sure. Where the relay is for the blower motor, or what might be wrong?
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1989 E150 Club Wagon, 5.0, EFI, Autotrans, 61kmiles.
Blower motor acting up.....sometimes on, sometimes off......mostly off now. For a while there whenever I would accelerate heavily, the Blower Motor would cut off, and when I leveled out in speed, it would come back on. I'm thinking maybe the thermal cutout in the Blower Motor Resistor Assembly..... but I also want to check the Blower Motor Relay, which I find on the schematic but have no clue where it is on the Van........ Also, it must go by another name because I can't find it listed in any of the parts stores.
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