Ford A/C :: 1992 E350 - Air Will Stop Blowing Through The Vents Randomly
Jul 27, 2011
What is happening is that air will stop blowing through the vents randomly. We will be trucking a long with either a/c or heater on and all of the suddon it will stop blowing. I know the blower is on because I can toggle between vent and defrost. It will blow out of the defrost but will not through the vents. It can be anywhere from 1 to 10 minutes and all the sudden it will start blowing through the vents once again. It just doesn't blow through the vents. This is a 1992 E-350 with a 460 in it.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
My 97 e350 club wagon is doing something weird. Front AC wont go to Max Air, the blend door wont function. Can hear vacuum trying to work. Rear Unit is on Heat even though Front is on AC and blows hot air out the rear floor vents. Hit some high water going too fast about a year ago. Next day, this started happening. Rigged up blend door so air flows through vents.
View 2 Replies
2014 Elantra GT SE tech package. This issue is intermittent so I am reluctant to take it to the dealer as they will just say there is nothing wrong if they cannot replicate the issue.
The problem I have is the ventilation inside the car stops blowing air randomly. I could be driving for 1/2 hour, 1 hour, 3 hours, and all of the sudden the amount of air blowing out of the vents drops down to almost nothing. I can still hear the fan blowing away at what sounds like full power, but air is just barely trickling out of the vents. Really sucks on hot days! This is going to be a bigger issue once winter comes.
View 14 Replies
My last problem was a leaky rear window. In my 11 F150 XLT, whenever I turn the Recirculate on with the main vents, my main vents seem to stop blowing. 2-4 work, but no 1.
View 2 Replies
My heater vents have been acting up. I have read that there may be a vacuum leak that causes the blend doors to default to defrost...
Where the vacuum line fails? I have ESOF 4x4 and that is still working. I think there may be a correlation between engine vacuum and my vents: at cruising or idle the vents work ok (not perfect) and under acceleration (less vacuum) the dash vents stop blowing.
I thought that the blend doors had their own vacuum pump, so I do not know why things change at different amount of throttle?
View 1 Replies
Quick question. I have a 1992 Ford E-350 Box Truck and during a recent highway trip the transmission slipped and I lost Drive (3rd). The van drives fine in 1st, 2nd, reverse, and overdrive. When it's in D, it wont move at all from a stop. I'm able to get it in to overdrive by starting in 2nd, accelerating to about 35mph, then shifting it in to D. If I accelerate enough after shifting to D, I can usually get it to shift in to OD. The fluid is full and clean.
View 1 Replies
Started having an issue with my '92 E-350 box truck. I noticed a slight hesitation while driving which I thought was a miss from perhaps a plug wire jumping or something. It didn't do it all the time, just occasionally for a few seconds then would clear up. I looked for a bad wire at night but couldn't find anything so I said hell with it and changed plugs and wires, cap and all.
That didn't fix the problem. Progressively the problem has gotten worse. Then I started hearing a pinging, almost tapping noise as the truck was stumbling. Now I've noticed that the motor seems to be running fine as it does it which has led me to think it may be in the trans.
A little background on the trans. About 6 months ago the van started randomly conking itself out coming to a stop after a few minutes of driving. It seemed the trans was bogging the motor down as if it were locked together. If I put the truck in neutral coming to a stop it wouldn't do it. I went ahead and had my uncles shop flush the trans and he put some sort of synthetic fluid in it.
Since then the van has never done the cutting off thing again. All seemed well. Then this started. It does it from take off through all the gears even in OD. It almost feels as if someone is rapidly hitting the brakes. I thought maybe malfunctioning brakes however soon as I'm not pressing the accelerator it doesn't do it.
Today I had about 4000 lbs of wood in truck and it was a horrible trip. The truck would barely get up to speed. I unloaded the wood and on the way home it only seemed to do it going up hills so it seems any load on the truck makes it happen.
Does it seem I'm in the right area thinking transmission?? Being it happens in every gear would a torque converter seem to be a possibility. When I was having the cutting off problem I was told it sounded like the converter wasn't unlocking but the flush seemed to fix that issue.
I haven't pulled the pan to see if there's any surprises in it and I did the diagnostic check and there wasn't any problems found. Any other manual diagnostic checks?????
View 1 Replies
I have a '99 E350 Ford van, V10, with 300K that runs like a charm until I slow down to stop. It begins to surge which will stop when I shift to neutral. I went to the local parts store and put it on their code reader. It only read 'left bank lean'. Nothing else.
View 5 Replies
I've recently purchased a 2007 Prius and I just noticed few days go that A/C blows warm air (weather was fair when I bought it and I can't remember if it really worked or not then) and middle vents do not blow any air. I'm not sure if two problems are connected but I do want to get both fixed without spending $$$ at the dealership. Where can I start?
View 5 Replies
I have problem with an occasional stall that occurs when the engine is warm and slowing to a stop. I have a 1994 fuel injected E-350 460ci motor home. The engine runs great 90% of the time. When cold or sitting the vehicle will start and idle great. After warming up 5-100 miles occasionally I will slow down to stop, the rmps will fluctuate from 400 to 750 rpm as will the vacuum then die. The engine will start up fine but idle roughly wanting to die again during this period. Once the rpms are above 1000 and put into gear the engine will take off and accelerate great. This stalling tendency will last about 15 minutes (if I stop) then appear to go away and not reoccur during that trip.
At high speed and hill climbing the engine does great. It has occurred once on each of my last 4 trips. I have had suggestions about: the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, and possibly the crank sensor. I'm trying to figure the best sequence on working this problem up. It might be tough in that the problem seems to go away after about 15 minutes regardless if the engine sits or is run.A few more notes: the rpm and vacuum are great and steady until the problem kicks in. Last summer a shop replaced: the computer, alternator, spark plugs, egr valve, and fuel filter. I think the parts were just replaced till the problem resolved. The problem (unrelated) seemed to be resolved after the work was done though.
View 1 Replies
I have just inherited my recently deceased father's 1992 Ranger with the 2.3 liter engine. He was a Ford Mechanic but got to ill to worry about fixing the Ranger. So, let me begin, the engine dies randomly, (at idle or in gear driving doesn't matter what gear or speed), turning key to off and then to on will allow vehicle to restart every time. No "Check Engine" light has ever lit, I do have an "Antilock" light that comes and goes. The engine codes I keep getting are: 10, 218 and 222.
Code 10 is a computer check code,
Code 218 is "Loss of Ignition Diagnostic Monitor (IDM) signal/left side, and
Code 222 is "Distributorless Ignition System - Loss of right side ignition diagnostic monitor (IDM) signal.
These codes were from my Innova reader. I have read where other similar problems were fixed with a new Crankshaft Position Sensor, replaced mine, no change. Another symptom I just noticed is my temp gauge stays near the cool end when it should be higher.
View 14 Replies
My 2001 E350 van's factory rear A/C is not working. Front A/C and heat is fine. Regardless of front control position for rear, heater stays on all the time unless I turn it off with the rear control. No air is blowing from the rear A/C vents, only from the rear heater vent. This isn't a big problem right now, but will soon be an issue. I use this van for my sales route, carrying a lot of temperature sensitive snack products. I don't have an owners manual, and the Haynes manual has no info at all regarding the rear A/C.
View 14 Replies
My mother's 2000 E150 van isn't blowing any air out of the vents. It doesn't work on high. I can detect a small amount of air coming out of the defrost vents and the floor vents when it is on high. I just replaced the resistor after finding that it had melted and still no air. My mother said that the a/c would go on and off when she hit bumps.
Do you think maybe the fan isn't grounded so the resistor overheated and caused melting in the resistor plug? The plug looks exactly like the one in the middle of this webpage. Same pin melting location also. Ford Blower Motor Resistor Pigtail Replacement...
I ran out of time to work on my moms van because I am in law school and live 2 hours away. Assuming ground, blower, and fuse are all good (I'm checking those friday), what else could be the problem?
View 3 Replies
As the season has started to warm, I noticed when I have my air temp set to 60 and only using the vent and have not selected AC I have hot air coming out of my vents. After doing some research it appears that I may have a bad Air blend actuator, bad air door or something else. I took my truck to the dealer to get my fuel filter changed and asked if they could diagnose the hot air issue. Not being a mechanic I told the service mechanic the problem and he says the AC compressor always kicks in on fords even if the AC is not selected and maybe I have a leak and he seemed to think it more than likely was not the air blend actuator or blend door.
I told him I had no idea that the AC compressor always kicks in even with it not selected. I knew it kicked in for AC and for defrots but didn't think it did for anything else. He said since the 90's all fords did. Well I get a call that after diagnosing the system, they believe the freon is low. I just have my doubts and wonder now if I should've just tried to take the air door actuator off and test along with sticking something in the air blend door whole and verifying it was moving.
I was hoping someone that knows more than me can verify if the AC compressor kicks in even when it is not selected when I have the temp selector set to low 60 degrees. Does it make sense that I would have hot air blowing out of the vents with the temp set on low even when it is cool outside. All of my temp controls work moving from defrost, vent to heat as I can feel blowing out of the different zones.
View 9 Replies
I just had a bunch of work done on the engine of my 96 f250 7.5 v8 460 and now whenever I'm going up hill, my air conditioner stops blowing from the vents and after I get back of a level ground it starts blowing again. What it could be?
View 6 Replies
OK.. 2005 F150 Lariat. Air conditioner worked on the way to work, went to drive home, air not blowing out the 4 main dash vents. Blows cold out the feet, and redirect SEEMS to be working, just not blowing at all out the main vents in the dash?
Even if you adjust the temp to where it should be blowing warm/hot air, it will not blow out the main vents.
View 3 Replies
On my 2000 E.B. I have NO A/C at all. All vents on the dash, regardless of vent, floor, defrost, ETC all blow hot air, even with the A/C on Max A/C. Also, all the rear vents for the rear HVC blow WARM air as well. I have no A/C in the back either. I don't hear any flopping around under the dash going down the road and I have checked the A/C compressor with the unit on Max A/C and the clutch appears to be engaged and the compressor appears to be operating normally.
I have NOT YET checked the A/C lines or dryer to see if they get cold, I will check that tonight, but I expect them to be getting cold because the Compressor does not cycle on and off, it stays running pretty much all the time. It clicks off once and again, but not very often at all (such as the case would be if the system was low on freon).
So, if the A/C lines are getting cold (if they are not, I will know my problem is compressor related, likely anyway), what this problem could be? From what I've read, if the Front blows hot, yet the rear blows cold, it's a blend door actuator or broken blend door, but that is not my problem. I have no A/C at all, everything blows hot.
View 1 Replies
'92 Ranger 2WD with 4 cyl and 9" brakes, right rear wheel cylinder keeps blowing out, replaced it twice. I've thought about maybe an obstruction in the left brake line creating too much pressure, or in the junction block on the rear axle. I believe only one line leads to there from the master cylinder, so what else could it be? Only other thing I can think of is that the right brake has a mechanical problem which is causing the forward shoe to move too far away from the cylinder, leaving no 'stop' so the piston just slides right out of the cylinder. But I can't figure that. Original adjuster star wheel was chewed up so I swapped in another, doubt it's that.
View 14 Replies
I recently got a ranger from my buddy and it keeps blowing the EEC fuse in the engine compartment. We have replaced the EEC relay and the EEC power relay. As soon as you turn the key it is blowing the fuse.
View 1 Replies
My 02 V-10 Ex seems to be blowing Air from the front vents up to the Defrost unless it go through a series of events-- Hit Auto then forward Air then the fan has to be a 4 only. It will blow forward vents then go back and forth from theirr to the defrost. Also the Temp seems to be much hotter then it should.
Took a interstate trip this weekend though and it seems to blow much colder and do a little bit better staying in the front vents however still goes back and forth. Im in FL and its HOT!!!! The only thing I know is that its a vacuum system.. and that again its HOT in the truck as a daily driver.
View 1 Replies
I had my entire A/C unit converted to R-134 on my 93 F-250. This was the entire system done at a FORD dealership. I've got about 1000KM on it, mostly this past winter. I noticed a few weeks ago when i turned the A/C on that the air seemed to be only blowing air, like vent. It was not air conditioned. I ran it for 15 min or so before suddenly there was a blast of really cold air and it held strong until i turned the truck off.
I cannot reproduce the results again, however. I can tell that the compressor kicks in like before, meaning it seems to be working mechanically fine. The temp outside has been at or just above freezing. Would this have any effect on the A/C? Should I park this is a heated parade or something to test it? What to test/check prior to bringing to the dealership?
View 1 Replies
