Ford A/C :: 1991 - Warm Air Blowing / Compressor Will Come On And Go Right Back Off
Sep 1, 2013
To start I have a 1991 super duty with a 7.3 in it. I replaced the evaporator, dryer and orifice tube. I added 4 cans of Freon and the a/c still blew warm so I added another can same result. I put one of the throw away gauges on the truck and it read empty so now I'm mad thinking it all leaked out only other option I could think of was to replace the condenser so went to break the lines to change it and Freon came spewing out so I tightened the lines back up and added another can of Freon still warm.
I got good gauges and hooked them up to high and low sides. High side was reading 100+ and low side was around 100 maybe a little lower. Oh yeah the compressor will come on and go right back off. So I let some of the Freon out and dropped the pressure down to 50 the high side was still a little below 100 so I let a little more out and now there is no Freon in the system again.
The lines never got cold and the dryer stayed warm the whole time. The first time I put Freon in before I started replacing stuff the dryer would get ice cold. My only thought is maybe the compressor is bad but I was told it was just replaced but Freon was never put in it. Oh and when I put the new parts in I replaced the orings in the compressor and put new oil in the compressor.
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98 e150 - 4.6l, 185k, My air started blowing warm the other day. It worked perfectly fine. I checked the compressor to see if it was turning. Nope! I am wondering if it could be the clutch?
I replaced the alternator and changed the serpentine belt a couple of months ago and noticed a very slight whining sound sometime after I did this. I thought something might be going and just ignored it and said to myself, that's all the new tread in the new belt whining a little. Could be! not sure.
Anyway, where could I possibly start an easy procedure to see why the failure in the compressor not turning? Compressor is a lot harder to get at than an alternator!
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My 2006 Sonata GLS 3.3 A/C started blowing warm, so I checked all the fuses and they were good. Swapped the relays and still nothing so I check the wire to the compressor and it was reading 14v. This would lead me to believe the a/c clutch is bad, I didn't want to replace just the clutch incase my compressor craps out on me later on so I'm just replacing the whole thing now. My questions is how much oil does a new compressor need?
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Not sure what happened with my Accent. When I turn on the A/C the blue lights come on, but the compressor is not kicking in and it's blowing warm air. I checked my fuses under the dash and in the engine bay and they look good.
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I have a 97 expedition that i am having trouble with. It has front and back airconditioner. The compressor is short cycling real fast. Warm air in the front and cool air in the back. I put a can of freon in but still not cooling. The gauges are between 30 psi and 50 on the low side. The high side is between 100 and 150 psi. The ambient temp was 80 degrees.....
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I just bought a 2000 f250 diesel truck and am having problems with the ac. When I first turn on the ac it blows very cold and works perfectly but after about 5 or 10 minutes it will start blowing warm and slightly humid air for probably around 5 or 10 minutes and then suddenly the very cold air will come back. This cycle repeats over and over again and I'm not sure what is wrong.
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My car is not blowing warm air at idle when warmed up. When under load driving the heat comes back then chills down when stopped at a light or traffic. I did a coolant flush by fill and gravity drain earlier this summer and have had zero issues with overheating or anything else. Could there be air in the heater core or is my water pump or thermostat failing?
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I've recently purchased a 2007 Prius and I just noticed few days go that A/C blows warm air (weather was fair when I bought it and I can't remember if it really worked or not then) and middle vents do not blow any air. I'm not sure if two problems are connected but I do want to get both fixed without spending $$$ at the dealership. Where can I start?
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My dad's 1991 Ford ranger 3.0 2wd just died on him when he was driving home and I checked to see if the truck had a spark and it did not so I replaced the ignition control module, then ignition coil, then distributor and rotor cap(plug) and I put new plugs and wires on it a few months back too. I also checked to make sure that the timing chain was working as well (while I had the distributor cap off). Then I realized that the EEC maxi fuse was blown. I then found a fourm that said it might be the relay so I replaced the EEC and the fuel pump relays while I had them both out. Every time I put a new 30 amp fuse in the EEC slot and turn the key to start it the fuse blows and the truck won't start. What might be wrong?
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My A/C was blowing warm air so I purchased a can of A/C PRO at a local parts store a couple weeks ago. My system was so low the compressor would not come on. I put a 20oz can in and the compressor started working. I let the truck idle for the recommended fifteen minutes, the air was not so cold anymore, and the gauge was reading low.
So, off I went to the parts store to buy another can. It is in the correct range on the gauge now. I was wondering how accurate the gauge was on this can so I had a friend hook up his professional A/C gauges and it was reading the same as the one on the can. I took the truck for an hour drive last weekend with the family to a lake for a picnic and noticed the A/C started blowing a bit warmer air, so I shut it off and rolled down the windows. I have noticed after all this my compressor does not cycle off and on, it just stays on even when the ambient temp is 65 degrees.
I checked the pressure yesterday and it is holding in the correct range still. I am wondering about the air gap in the clutch so I borrowed my neighbor's feeler gauges today and checked my air gap. It was about .037" so I removed the clutch and took out the only shim. Put it back together and it is .021" ran the truck and the clutch did not turn until I turned on the A/C, then it engaged. Hooked up my low pressure gauge and checked the pressure and it read 24 psi with the fan on low. The ambient temperature at this point is 70 degrees.
I put a meat thermometer in the vent closest to the steering wheel and after just a couple minutes, it was reading 40 degrees. I turned the fan on high and noticed the pressure went to 35 psi and the temperature in the vent started to rise. I turned the fan back down to low and the pressure dropped back to 24 psi and the temperature went back down to 40 degrees. I noticed the clutch still is not cycling it just stays running. I left the gauge hooked up to see what the pressure was off and it read about 94 to 95 psi.
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With the few hot days we have had here lately, I have noticed that after about a minute the AC will go warm and I will have to rev the truck up when it does to get it cold again. It seems the compressor is disengaging. I noticed that the condenser has a big gash with a tube ripped open on top. I know it needs to be replaced, but could that be causing the compressor issues? It's a 2003 7.3L.
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I have a 1991 Bonne LE with 150,000 miles. Have had GREAT luck with this car but realize it is getting high miles. I recently drove it about 250 mile trip and the A/C worked perfectly staying nice and cold. The next time I drove it, when I turned the A/C on, it got cold after about 5-10 seconds and then it was like you turned only the blower on with no A/C. It does the same thing every time I turn the A/C on, gets cold fast, then just neutral temp with no cold air.
I checked the compressor switch and it is working fine, and the compressor is engaging and staying engaged, but not outputting cold air except for the first 10 seconds or so. I do believe the temperature door inside the dash is opening properly. What I might check myself before taking the car in for A/C service? I am capable of replacing the compressor & seals myself but would have to have someone discharge the system and then recharge it afterwards.
The car is a rebuilder that I bought about 10 years ago. The fellow (very trustworthy) who rebuilt it replaced all the A/C o-ring seals when I bought it and made sure the system was fully charged. It has worked perfectly this whole time. He also gave me the a/c compressor and other parts from the parts car that was used to rebuild this one.
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I just bought it off my friend yesterday and I noticed the back door doesn't lock, the glass part doesn't either. How I could fix it?
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I got 91 celica gts recently started to tap when the motor is warm I've changed cap button wires plugs still getting this noise might be chatter but only when warm not there when cold.
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Says A/C Compressor Clutch Circuit open. A/C blows hot air....go to VENT and the EATC controls the temp fine (ambient air only). It's on a '97 Lincoln Mark VIII if it makes any difference. Pulled code # 1530 ...
Clutch does not engage but the compressor does turn. Also the EATC will NOT go into the test mode. Push OFF and Floor at same time, then AUTO within two seconds. Nothing. Is this a clutch gap problem? New clutch was installed about a year ago.
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In my 08 Expedition I notice the a/c compressor cycles on for 18-25 sec. then off for about the same. This is with an ambient temp of about 75f. A/C seems to be blowing cool air-never was really cold since new. The idle drops/surges a bit when the a/c kicks on also-which is what grabbed my attention. Is this a normal or is it short cycling?
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The Truck: 94 F-150 XLT 5-speed 300-I6
The Problem: AC blowing hot air.
What I've done: Start the truck, look at the compressor, (looks like it's spinning to me), engage the AC, look again (yep the pully on the compressor is still spinning).
And that's pretty much where i stopped, cause i don't know what i'm looking for, should i be seeing it not spin if it where seized, and whats next on the list to check.
I assume that it's not seized at this point and it must be something else, like a control, keeping it from working.
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1997 F150... What part of the control system tells the compressor to turn on and off? After not having air conditioning for a year or more I replaced the broken blend door.
When the a/c is turned on and the temp control switch is turned to cold, I get cold air. When I turn the temp control switch to warm, the air coming out of the vents is very warm. However when I do this I noticed that the compressor is still engaged. I think that at this point the compressor should disengage.
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1991 honda crx si - starts fine when weather and engine is cold but lately giving me trouble starting when it is warm [above 80] and engine is cold [has not been driven for several hours].
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My truck has been blowing HOT when I put the A/C on. I suspected the blend door actuator and changed it out. I later discovered that the A/C fuse is blowing when compressor tries to kick in. I pulled clutch/compressor plug and fuse still blew. When I pulled plug on pressure switch fuse held. I put a fused jumper onto plug for pressure switch and fuse in cab held but fuse in jumper blew. Put cheapo can gauge on low side and it went to "warning' status (high, without compressor running). Is it a clogged something or is it electrical?
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So my Ac is not blowing cold at all. I can hear the compressor cycling. I filled the sys with freon. Still not cold I am pretty sure I have a leak but wouldn't it still blow cold? What do I need to check to fix this? The temps are getting in the upper 90's and 100 s I need Ac bad...
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