Ford A/C :: 1989 F350 - Compressor Cycling On And Off
Jun 3, 2011
I purchased an 89 F350 460 EFI factory air. The air worked fine for the first 6 hour on the drive home then It just stopped blowing cold. When I got home I saw the air gap on the clutch was quite wide so I took the washers out, still was too wide. I could only get the clutch to pull in if I tapped it in by hand and it only stayed in for a short time. This was all last fall.
Today I replaced the clutch, compressor and drier, took it in and had it charged. They replaced the pressure switch because the compressor cycle on and off. Even after replacing the switch it still cycles on and off and I still have no air! They removed some of the charge but still no air. The clutch pulls in and runs for 2 sec every 15- 20 seconds. I assume the reason it cycles is a high pressure. What should I be looking at now?????
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My 2001 Expedition 5.4L sat for 2+ years and due to a new child, I put it back on the road late last fall. Last week, we had our 1st "must use AC" day and it didn't work.
I listened to see if the compressor was cycling and it never engaged. I picked up a gauge and r134a kit.
Outside temp was about 60F, I think my therm was showing 57F to be exact. When I checked the low side pressure with the engine off, the gauge reading was below 15. It made sense that the compressor wouldn't start at the pressure. I put in about a 1/2 can with the motor running A/C on max and it was showing 40, but still no compressor cycling. I then shut the motor down, let it sit for about 3 mins and restarted. This time, the compressor started to cycle, it was cycling quickly though, I'd say about every 3 seconds.
With the compressor cycling, the pressure would jump from 17 to 40. With the motor off, it would read 50. Still no cold air. I put in about 14oz of R134a.
I guess what I need to know is if I should I keep adding R134a until it stabilizes around 40, even when the compressor is cycling? Also, where should the static pressure be? It's sitting at 50 now. I've been told it should be around 80, but I'm thinking that might be dependent on outside temp.
BTW, I'm now thinking that the reason that I'm not getting cold air and the compressor keeps cycling is because I need to add a lot more R-134a. I think when the compressor starts and draws coolant, the low side pressure drops to low, causing the compressor to turn off. When the compressor cycles off, it sees the low side pressure at 40 and starts it up again causing the coolant draw and low side pressure to drop to low again. Am I right on this thought? It looks like I'll need to add another can to get the pressure to stay above 22 when the compressor is running.
One other thing... How much R-134a the system takes? I need to know because I have access to a vacuum.
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I thought originally I had a leak so I tested with dual gauges I'm getting 85 psi on low and high side, which I believe is good. So I tried grounding the low sensor, then high sensor, then both, then both just pulled out and any combo possible. Still not engaging. Switched out the relay, checked fuses, still not engaging. Tried taking shim out of compressor still nothing. Jumped the relay and it will engage and air comes out cold. What should I check next?
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Compressor seems to cycle to frequently, every 5 Seconds. Morning and Night the ac is freezing. During the Day it's cool but not cold.
Hooked up gauges and the high side is around 150 and the low side will go up to 45 and drop to 25 ( this is when the compressor engages and disengages.)
Ambient temp is just under 80. Where to go from here? 2003 Sport Trac...
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I have a 2002 F250 on which the AC compressor clutch is not cycling: I have checked and added coolant so low pressure is correct (don't have high pressure gauge). I checked the clutch air gap and it is at 0.030 " as specified in another post. I replaced the low pressure AC cycling switch (on the evaporator/dryer). With the AC on, I disconnected the AC cutoff switch and the clutch disengages. This circuit has the correct (>10V) going to it. I am thinking it could have something to do with the AC relay.
When you switch the ATC to a setting other than AC or Max AC, the clutch disengages fine. I noticed this problem because the AC shuts off when it is really hot, after I have been driving for a long while, about 1 hour or more. If you shut off AC, wait a few minutes, then turn on it works fine.
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My AC compressor failed so I replaced it.
I put in 1 can of R134, and I don't see the compressor cycling.
How do I remove the connector to the accumulator so I can jump it and force the AC to run.
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He has a 96 explorer and his ac compressor clutch was cycling on and off. So he went and bought 2 20 ounce cans of 134a and proceeded to add it to the evaporator service port. Of course a lot of it sprayed out side of it as it did not fit well (duh). So he has no Idea how much he actually got in there out of the 30 or so ounces he dispensed. He is laughing at himself with me on this. He says hi ahead of time
I have access to good gauges and a reclaimer and vacuum as I work sometimes for a residential ac guru. So what to do? I was thinking the evaporator should be changed out but I want a second opinion. Then vacuum and add new 134.
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My 03 Expedition A/C quit working, the compressor was cycling on and off so I took it in to be recharged thinking it was low. They said was completely out and it took 3.5lbs to recharge although they couldn't find any signs of leaking. When they recharged it they put more dye in to find the leak, the technician said he suspected a compressor since it was completely empty and had been working in the spring.
I was hoping it was a compressor as I have changed one before on my 97 Expedition and am pretty comfortable with it, however I can't see any thing leaking using a UV light. I have checked the compressor and every line I can see all the way back to the rear (it has rear air). When they recharged it worked very good for about 8 days on the 9th day it was working and went from blowing cold to hot instantly. Where or what to look for??
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My 2003 F150's compressor cycles even when the a/c or defroster is not turned on. It has the climate control type of temperature system. This doesn't seem normal.
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So again the a/c in old green gave out. it has been an ongoing battle over the past few years, but this time I took it to a good friend who has all the right tools as our level of frustration dealing with it has peaked.
We removed everything, and got it all "new" from oh-rye-lees. a new compressor was installed a few weeks back and it worked fine, but cycled very strangely. it would rapidly kick in and out, then just stay engaged. found out the condenser was plugged up and thought maybe that was causing it.
At any rate, it now has a new compressor, condenser, evaporator, drier, orifice tube, and low pressure switch. all the lines were flushed and checked.
it was vacuumed and checked, then charged with freon. The compressor is doing the exact same thing! it is cycling very strange. sometimes rapidly at higher rpm, and sometimes it works just fine. the a/c is working, but it is freezing up the drier, evaporator, and line all the way back to the compressor. vent temps are about 30.
The WOT relay and high pressure switch was replaced, and it did not make a difference. we are at a total loss.
We were told by another person that the clutch on the new compressor was too small and that was causing the issue. It measure 4.8" and we were told is is supposed to be 5.3". is there any truth to that? we just do not know what is causing this, but want to get it right as surely something will break if it stays this way.
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So my Ac is not blowing cold at all. I can hear the compressor cycling. I filled the sys with freon. Still not cold I am pretty sure I have a leak but wouldn't it still blow cold? What do I need to check to fix this? The temps are getting in the upper 90's and 100 s I need Ac bad...
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I have a 2007 Ford E450 Superduty Box truck with a V10 and 70,000 miles. For the 6 years I have owned it, the AC has always been ice cold. This summer it will not blow cold under any driving situation.
When the AC is on AC, AC max, or defrost, the compressor clutch constantly engages for 1.5 seconds then disengages for 5 seconds. I bought a can of refrigerant and added only about 1/4 of it to reach proper psi for the current temperature.
If I remove either the high or low pressure switch clips, the compressor stops engaging. Is it possible that one of the switches has failed in that it is activating at an incorrect pressure? Unfortunately our local Ford dealer here is notoriously devious and while they may fix the problem, I will probably have an entirely new system by the time they are done.
I've ruled out coolant, air gap does not seem to apply and both hi and low pressure switches are active. What am I missing?
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I have a 97 expedition that i am having trouble with. It has front and back airconditioner. The compressor is short cycling real fast. Warm air in the front and cool air in the back. I put a can of freon in but still not cooling. The gauges are between 30 psi and 50 on the low side. The high side is between 100 and 150 psi. The ambient temp was 80 degrees.....
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I have a 2010 Corolla S. This was the first time in 4 years that I have had to recharge the A/C. The compressor is not cycling on and off. It is only spinning consistently. Why this is happening?
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I Just replaced the ac condenser filled it with new freon and now the clutch cycles on and off every few seconds but doesn't blow cold air. Does it need to settle for a while or run on high max AC for a while before it works properly? I filled it to the proper level. I'm pretty confident its full. Do I need to adjust anything? It hasn't worked in a few years I bet. I just got the truck. 2001 Ford F-350 7.3 diesel ....
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2009 Accent with 103K miles, which has been good to me so far. Over the past week or so, I've noticed that when I'm driving on the highway with the A/C on, the car occasionally hesitates, maybe every minute or two. I'm guessing this is from the A/C compressor cycling on and off, but it's never done this before. Does it seem like this is the beginning of the end for the compressor? Anything else it could be?
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Finally got to the 89 bronco's ac. Whole system was replaced 3 years ago and converted to 134a about 3 summers ago. Wasn't working this year so I put gauges on and got low pressures, as soon as I put a can of 134a on, low side pressures shot up well over 100, compressor would pump for a second or two, the low side would hike up, then compressor would shut off and low side would come down to about 70-100. High side when pump engaged would be 150-200 then drop below 100 when disengaged. I checked the orifice tube, there was a bit of sediment, not black, more greyish. Flushed air and solvent through the low line from condenser to orifice tube, then backflushed the evaporator and blew it out well. No blockages or dirt. Replaced the accumulator and orifice tube, pulled a vacuum for several hours, then tried to refill, same thing, it wouldn't even take a 12oz can before pressures on low side would shoot up. Think it is the compressor or the suction lines blocked?
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I have a 2001 ford f350 v10 dually. about 2 months ago it blew a plug out and i had it fixed and shortly after it developed a starting issue. It starts fine for a day or so then after it sits for a day it wont start without out cycling the key 5 to 10 times....It cranks fine just wont try to start or even sputter....took to a shop that replaced my jem Module and he had it for a week and only one time did it not start. I drive it home and it sits overnight and wont start the next day. took it back and he couldn't find out what is going on.
Its has started and ran just fine no issues once its running but shut it off for a couple hours you got a chance it wont start. I've eventually got it to start every time so far. The shop said my fuel pressure was 40 psi but would go down after it sat to about 10 to 20. The one time it did not start for the shop they said it had no fuel pressure but then he just cycled the ignition a few time and it started. What to check that would be normal like the fuel pump or relays and fuses. I should say early this year around jan feb it had the starting issue once and thought it was due to a autostart that was installed before I bought it and so got it going and just removed autostart when started having trouble with starting.
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Truck is an 89 single cab, single rear wheel F350 4x4 with 7.3 non turbo diesel and a c6 trans. not lifted, stock size tires. If you hit just the right bump, regardless of speed, the front end just goes crazy.. tires and wheel shoot violently side to side and its very frightening/dangerous. you can just barely hold the wheel, front end is bouncing and whole truck shakes from such rapid camber change as the contact patch swaps from inside to outside of the tread.
Tie rod end, draglink, steering stabilizer (add on,) shock absorbers (rancho,) and a wheel bearing are all brand new. With each part replaced the shake felt worse (since more of it was transmitted to the steering wheel rather than lost in the sloppy parts) and i took it off the road immediately.
Brand new steering box, put it back on the road, did it again less than a mile away. It rained all day so i haven't jacked the truck up again and really, I am quite sick of this problem.
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I have a 1989 F-350 7.3 IDI with a ZF-5 trans. Lately, I noticed that it was a little harder to shift my truck through gears while driving than it normally is, and when I'm stopped and try shifting into first gear or something it like vibrates and makes like a grinding noise like it doesn't want to go in gear. For a while, I've also had to push on the clutch very hard in order for it to I guess hit the linkage and start, but I never had problems shifting until lately.
Today though, I went to start my truck, I pushed on the clutch as hard as I could, and the switch would not engage so I couldn't start it. So, I guess the switch was farther to link than the pedal could possibly go. I went under the dashboard and engaged it by hand then it started. I drove home and the shifting was still iffy. How can I make the switch engage normally again so its closer I guess and so I don't have to push so damn hard on the clutch to get it to start? And could the switch linkage have anything to do with the shifting being funky lately, or could that only be the clutch itself?
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I have a 2005 F350 with 6.8L V10 with 135k on it. I bought the truck 2 months ago and have started fixing things slowly on it. It has started to get warm here in NY so it is time to get the AC working. I started out with fresh parts. New AC compressor loaded with clutch, New receiver/dryer, new orifice tube. removed old compressor which was completely missing the clutch on the compressor, pulley spun but the shaft is locked up. i installed all the new components and went to test the system to make sure the compressor clutch would work. There is NO R134a in the system, again wanted to make sure clutch would work before spending the money on putting the refrigerant in to the system.
I jumped the 2 pressure switches to fool the system into thinking that there was refrigerant, and no lock up, no power at the connector. i tried removing the jumper from the lower sensor, pluging it back in, leaving the upper jumped, and same result. i then swapped the jumpers again. no jumper on top, jumper on bottom. no dice. i check both sensor connectors and they both have power going to the sensors. I have checked the fuse in the fuse box in the cabin and everything is fine there, i have the proper 12v in and out of the fuse. i have checked the what i believe to be the WOT relay in the engine bay on driver side fire wall and wiring seems correct there.
I have tried to find information on the diode that is in the circuit but have pretty much found that either the fuses will blow or it should work. i could not find too much information on it honestly. Everything i found was relating to F150s or explorers. I am going to a friends shop tomorrow to vacuum and fill the system..
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