Ford A/C :: 1989 - Compressor Shut Off And Low Side Come Down To About 70 - 100
Jun 14, 2017
Finally got to the 89 bronco's ac. Whole system was replaced 3 years ago and converted to 134a about 3 summers ago. Wasn't working this year so I put gauges on and got low pressures, as soon as I put a can of 134a on, low side pressures shot up well over 100, compressor would pump for a second or two, the low side would hike up, then compressor would shut off and low side would come down to about 70-100. High side when pump engaged would be 150-200 then drop below 100 when disengaged. I checked the orifice tube, there was a bit of sediment, not black, more greyish. Flushed air and solvent through the low line from condenser to orifice tube, then backflushed the evaporator and blew it out well. No blockages or dirt. Replaced the accumulator and orifice tube, pulled a vacuum for several hours, then tried to refill, same thing, it wouldn't even take a 12oz can before pressures on low side would shoot up. Think it is the compressor or the suction lines blocked?
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I purchased an 89 F350 460 EFI factory air. The air worked fine for the first 6 hour on the drive home then It just stopped blowing cold. When I got home I saw the air gap on the clutch was quite wide so I took the washers out, still was too wide. I could only get the clutch to pull in if I tapped it in by hand and it only stayed in for a short time. This was all last fall.
Today I replaced the clutch, compressor and drier, took it in and had it charged. They replaced the pressure switch because the compressor cycle on and off. Even after replacing the switch it still cycles on and off and I still have no air! They removed some of the charge but still no air. The clutch pulls in and runs for 2 sec every 15- 20 seconds. I assume the reason it cycles is a high pressure. What should I be looking at now?????
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I just bought an 89 century custom coupe it has had it's fuel pump & filter changed before I got it. The problem is a gas smell after I run it for a while and shut it off. their is no gas smell when its been sitting for awhile.
I have checked the clamps on the filler tube and they needed to be tightened did that. but still has the gas smell. What's causing this ?
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I have an '89 Pontiac Bonneville that has a new fuel pump and filter, computer, starter, ignition, battery and oxygen sensor! Our car will crank up, but then shut off and lose all power within 30 secs. What could be wrong?The ignition still won't work. I was told that it may be the anti-theft. Does this car have one? If so, where is it?What else could be wrong with the car? We are having a very hard time!!!!!
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I'm planning the install of a 1996 351w into my '77 F-100. I'm using the '96 accessory serpentine drive (FS-10 A/C compressor, '96 alternator, etc.). It needs to mate up to the '77 wiring. I'm going to use stock '96 underhood A/C components (accumulator, hoses, condenser).
As best as I can tell, the '96 system uses the ECU to manage the A/C system, but I've converted the '96 motor to a carb.
Looking at both the '77 and '96 systems I think the easiest underhood wiring solution would be to use the '77 compressor ON wire as a relay trigger, and use the '96 High Pressure Cut Off (HCPO) on the compressor manifold, and compressor cycling switch attached to the accumulator to interrupt the relay output to the compressor.
I can get the switches and pigtails, and I can look up their pressure trigger points, but I don't know the voltage the '96 switches operate at (12v or some reduced voltage?) or how to simulate their trigger conditions to see how they work. I guess that at ambient pressure the HPCO should be normally on and the cycling switch should be normally off. So I could just wire them into the relay ground or trigger connection. But of course they aren't simple two wire switches. (Edit: Looking at it online, the cycling switch appears to be two wire, the HCPO is 4 wire).
How to wire them, should I use them to interrupt the relay ground or trigger connection?
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So I bought a 2004 Jetta with the 2.0 engine yesterday. I got the car pretty cheap and was told that the issue with the A/C was because it was low on freon. I've never owned a Volkswagen before, but I assume A/C units are all similar. So I go to put in some freon into the low end of unit. I get about half of a 12 oz can or so in and I hear a loud Psst or shooting of the propellant. I look down and it looks like the the side of the compressor shot the oil filter with the coolant. I'm not sure if I sprung a leak of if it was just a valve that releases when there is too much pressure. I've only driven it for about 10-20 mins since and I can still occasionally hear the Psst sound. It is 96 degrees in my area if that makes a difference or not?
Some other information, I noticed that the compressor kicks on, but only for like a second or two and then it shuts off for about 15 seconds or so and then repeats itself. What could be wrong?
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i have an 89 ford ranger custom and my driver side tail light works just fine but my passenger doesnt work when i mash the brake the passenger side brake light wont come on. the parking lights work, turn signals, and hazards work but the brake light. ive checked the wires and replaced the socket and still the same problem so either theres something in the wires that im missing or i dont know what else. any hints?
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The brake line on the passengers side went bad. Called ford for replacement and they said ford is not supplying that line any more. Where I can get a replacement? Its hard line and connects to the rubber line.
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Have a 2001 Prius going strong except for the ac. The button light blinks on the ac switch, and the compressor seems to shut off. But some times the ac works fine.
I brought it into the dealer and they said I need a new compressor.I think it's a temp sensor, otherwise, why is the ac nice and cold and can stay on for some period before going off.
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This morning the passenger side wiper on my 89 Ranger stopped working. I heard a clunk noise and it stopped but driver side still works. What should I check first? I'm guessing a shaft came off but don't know where it is located.
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I've a Venture 98' & lately I noticed that there are times when I can't close the passenger's side window from both sides. I can open it from both sides but the problem is closing it. Then there would be occasions that it's working ok. But it seems to be getting worse lately.
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89 v6 4Runner. When I turn the key forward you hear a "click" coming from the passenger side fender area. After a few turns the engine will turn over and away you go. Yesterday for the first time after a few clicks I lost all power to my instrument panel, no dash lights no gauges working and no click, nothing. Stereo, cigarette lighter still had power, even reset my dash clock so it lost all connections as well. Every few turns I would get lights back and turn the key to start and click and dead again. Eventually I bump started the engine, drove home and here I sit.
Relay box by the front fender... this is where the click is coming from, looked at a few posts from yoda tech and one person suggested cutting the no 4 line for the ignition system off the relay box and have it go directly to the pos post for the battery. This will be a closed circuit from the battery post direct to the starter relay yes?
Relay box is probably just getting old and wires are beat up. My electrical is not the best for sure. Can I just clean up the wires going to the relay box(es)?
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Seems like my 2001 f350 7.3 has an ac freon leak on pass side near compressor. AC is blowing coolish air but not cold like is should be. There is green like oil around main line leading out of ac compressor. I have attached several pics to illustrate situation.
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2002 F150 Screw... The other day I had a passenger in the truck with me. He tried to roll down the window in subzero weather and the window was frozen shut. The motor overcame the ice and pull the window down but I think a bracket come off the window. Now the window does not go up-and-down straight It is a little cockeyed. I've never tried to get inside the door of my pickup to fix a motor or something like that? How to access it? Once I get in, How do you reattach the glass to the motor and bracket that holds the window?
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2003 Ex rwd 6.0l 125,000 miles. The complete rear left side door is stuck shut and has been for about 6 months. This is not a side door, but the very back where the lift gate is. I sprayed wd40 in there, nothing. It won't budge. If its a broken cable inside, how to I take off the interior door panel to get to the access holes and actuator on that door or both doors on the tailgate?
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I have a 1996 Honda accord ex with the vtech and 176000 miles. The problem Is everytime nomatter if the engine is how of cold there is a noise coming from under the hood that sounds like a compressor and when this happen and I try to step on the brakes, it'll work but it would vibrate. When I opened up the hood It sounded like it was coming from the right side of the engine (where all the belts are) what might this be?
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The A/C does not blow cold. The Compressor clutch does kick on and stay on The passenger side fan kicks on only (I think the driver side is toast but i need to test it to confirm) The system has 45psi on the low side
I did not check the high side as I don't have a gauge for it but will get one if I need to test that. So my thoughts are that my expansion valve is toast which is what expands the hot liquid and turns it to cool liquid so the A/C gets cold. I think this because it seems all of the other components work.
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I'm trying to add some 134 to the AC to see if it will work at all. it slowly stopped last year. I got a charge hose and a can of just 134a. When I attached the hose the gauge pegs on the high pressure side. I know I'm on the low pressure side and the compressor isn't running. It starts and stops. Should the pressure be that high with the compressor not running?
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I garage, but on two occasions, once left out overnight, other at the airport for a week, the side windows were frozen shut. After the Treg warmed up, they would open, but seemed to be frozen at the bottom weatherstrip. Are others having this problem? I love this truck !
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My car's driver's side door is stuck shut. It won't open from the outside or inside. The lock still works (from the outside and inside). Sometimes the window will go all the way down and sometimes it won't. It usually sounds like it's running into something. We've tried using a flat hook through the window but can't figure it out.
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Last night I noticed when I got out of the car my drivers side headlight was off while my passenger side light stayed on for about 20 more seconds.
At first I thought I just needed a new bulb, but tonight I saw both headlights are working when the car is on or when I turn the headlights on manually, but when I shut the car off the drivers side goes off immediately and the passenger side turns off in about 20 seconds.
I really like my auto-off after a little bit instead of it turning off immediately.
I haven't changed anything recently. Other than that I can't see any other problems. I swapped out my 08 headlights for 2014 headlights about a year ago and haven't had any problems.
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