Ford A/C :: 1988 E250 - Rear Heater Core Is Getting Coolant Flow Constantly
Aug 3, 2013
Okay, the vehicle is a 1988 E250 ClubWagon 7.3 IDI diesel with front and rear AC/heat. I have 3 questions for you:
1. I found that the rear heater core is getting coolant flow constantly which is making my rear AC blow 75* air. These models don't have a blend door in the back, they appear to have a valve that is only allows coolant flow to the rear heater core when the heat is turned on. Problem is that I can't seem to find where this valve is located on the van or what it is called to locate it at a parts store. Where on my van this valve is located?
2. My rear blower only functions on High. I know there is a resistor set up in the rear that controls the blower speed. Before I just replace this, is there a way that I can test it?
3. Is it possible that the Resistor setup for the rear fan speed would also be causing the rear coolant flow valve to not work? I know it's a long shot, but does the valve signal flow through it when the AC is on to tell the coolant valve to shut?
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The heater on my 2001 ford F150 is not heating. The blower is working, the inlet hose is hot, the outlet hose is cold. Removal of hoses confirms that there is very limited flow through the heater core. I flushed it but got only minimal improvement. However when I back flush (reversing the flow through the core) the flow is great. Here's the question: Can I reverse the flow through the heater core on a permanent basis? It seems this would give the needed flow of hot fluid through the core to allow heating. Is there a problem with doing this?
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I have a leak where my heater core tube goes into the intake at the rear pass side of engine. I have read that this part is pressed in. I dont want to remove the intake since i just paid $400 to have a new gasket kit put on. My question is can I bypass this tube with a hose from the water pump like in this video?
FORD 4.6 , 5.4 , 6.8, HEATER HOSE UNDER INTAKE REPLACEMENT THE EASY WAY !!! - YouTube....
If I can do a rubber hose like in the video I was to make sure that the tube just goes through the intake and that it does not supple coolant into the intake??
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I bought a 04 explorer with a bad thermostat which led to a bad head gasket, fixed that and managed to not have to buy the special tools or time it , but now that its running I don't have any heat. I have complete service records on this vehicle and there was never a complaint of the heater not working. The a/c works and the heat will adjust the a/c temp, but no heat. In trouble shooting it I found that I am not getting vacuum to call for the coolant to enter the heater core. When I apply suction to it, it will send the coolant. Even though I wasn't getting the clicking noise, I pulled the blend door actuator and it looks surprisingly good (not looking forward to putting it back in). Where to look next?
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I just flushed my coolant. Now I got more water than coolant, and in the heater core! I got some 50/50 coolant, cause cannot find 100% Asian coolant.
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2000 Expedition. Had ford mechanic replace front heater core due to not having heat in the front and back. wife brings it home I check all vents and notice there's good heat up front but not the back, then I switch the rear from panel to floor heat and hear a thumping sound (figure the blend door is doing it) still no heat in rear. returned to ford mechanic and they stated my blender door switch is not working properly, so they flushed out rear core and instead of fixing the blender door switch they kept it on floor position and charged me another bill. could it be possible that while replacing front core the gunk made it to the rear hoses and core, and clogged it up, and damaged the blender door switch somehow. prior to my heat issues I never had any problems with the rear blender door, just no heat due to front core needing replaced according to them "FORD".
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The problem started when his heater core was leaking coolant and it dripped all the way down to his original ECU. Car stopped working. Then he went to a Hyundai dealer to fix the problem but they said he had to buy a brand new one. First ECU didn't work. Returned it and bought one more expensive. Dad told me it worked but he didn't by pass the heater core so coolant dripped again. So now I'm on my third ECU but it doesn't work. I've read online that some older cars have plug-and-play type of ECUs that aren't restricted to the VINs. His car is a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe GLS FWD 4dr 3.5L.
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I have an '88 E-250 with no power to accessories. Was starting fine but now no power to anywhere but the ignition light that is below and to the left of the steering wheel. No headlights or radio. Checked my fusible links but just visual so gotta get the meter out there and start poking around. Only thing I did different before it started this was take loose the ground wire holding strap that holds the middle of the ground wire to the body but I didn't think this was an actual ground spot but I could be wrong.
Earlier I reinstalled that strap and took out the ignition switch. I noticed that the radio turned on when I turned the key to acc. but not when I turned it to run. Would the headlights run through this ignition switch on the column? I have power to the yellow wires coming into the switch and the ground is good. I checked the fusible links I could find out in the engine bay and all tested good but could've missed some. Fuses in the box looked good but don't know if there is a master fuse box for bigger fuses but I don't see one.
1988 E-250 5.8 auto.
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Plastic coupling between core and hose, is there a specialty to needed to remove from heater core?
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I just purchased an 97 E350 (15 Passenger) and I notice that the two rear heater lines (along the driver side) are rotted and is showing sign of minor leakage. Can I simply replace them with rubber heater hoses or do I need to get the factory heater lines?
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I have a 2003 Ex with the 7.3. There is a leak in the rear coolant line just in front of the rear right tire. Is there any way to bypass the rear heater under the hood?
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I have a 2000 F-150 5.4L 4x4. I am currently deployed and my wife has the truck. Just yesterday she told me my heater core went out again the only way she knows this is its the 4th time in just over a year. What would cause a heater core to go out so many times in a short period? What should I have my wife do? I do not want to get rid of my truck and I wont be back for another few months.
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2005 Ford E Series heater core is "always on"?
That is, coolant always circulate through the core, there is no "valve" that turns it on or off.
The HOT / COLD dial opens and closes a door (vacuum operated) that allow air to enter the heater core area?
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My commute into the office was more difficult than usual because of the fumes pouring out of the vents. I have a 1997 F-150 5.4 V8. should I remove both in and out hoses from the firewall and connect them with a plastic fitting not to risk breaking the aluminum fittings on the motor?(There is an advanced a mile away) OR is it possible for me to remove the in hose from the firewall and remove the out hose from the motor, and run the in hose directly into the motor. Are the fittings the same and can I do that with limited time and tools?
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Coworker's 2000 Focus's heater core started leaking on his 50m commute this morning. He is ready to donate the car at this point. Any stop leak product (i.e. Bars) that would stop the leak without clogging the cooling system.
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I have a 89 ford mustang with 4 cylinder. After being stored for the winter I noticed anti-freeze leaking from drain tube below heater core (small amount). I am not looking forward to replacing the heater core in this car! Any reason this happened after the car sitting in storage all winter??? or just a coincidence??
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Ford dealership is having problems with heater core repair. 2002 Ford F150 Supercrew. Problem is antifreeze (or early on just smell) in the cabin. 4 heater core replacements in 2 years. A hose (?) replaced. Electrolysis kit replaced. 4th heater core replacment finished yesterday. I know that I need to let the dripped antifreeze work out of the system, but I am smelling mild antifreeze this AM. Usually gets worse over 2-3 days then I have to take it in. What might be being missed here?
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I need to back flush the heater core in my 2000 EX with a 6.8. Looking at the outlet hose I don't see anywhere to separate it, do I need to cut the rubber section and put a flushing "T" in it ?
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1991 F250 Diesel. I'm on my 5th heater core in the past 18 months. This last one lasted less than 500 miles. I'm using the Spectre brand from Autozone. I find it hard to believe i could have gotten 5 bad ones in a row. I have pressure checked the system and it's normal. There is no fluctuations in the readings, so I doubt there is a head gasket issue.
I checked for stray voltage in the coolant and the results never got above .17 volts, but it was usually lower than that. I thought I had an electrolysis issue when I noticed the heater core tubes touching the firewall, so for this last core, I insulated the tubes, but that didn't work. I've checked everything I can think of. The truck has 117K miles on it. I don't drive it much, less than a few thousand miles a year.
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How to replace the heater core?
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Friend of mine has a 99 Ford F150 with the 5.4L. He thinks the heater core has gone on it as it blows a mist through the top vents when he turns the heater on. He can also smell antifreeze. Up here in Canada, its, well quite cold, nuff said about that. He has had estimates of anywhre from $800-$1000 to change it whereas the cost of the core is below $100. Is there anywhere that he can get a diagram.... of how to change it, all he knows was that he was told to remove the entire dash to gat at it.. Is that true ?
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