Ford A/C :: 1984 F250 - No Belt To Compressor
Aug 4, 2009
I've been clambering over the truck (bought unseen) and working out what needs doing - and have noticed (glaring at me) the lack of belt running from the Fan Pulley up to the AC Compressor... I'm guessing the AC didn't work and this was a 'simple' way to de-commission it?
Is this a common 'fix' or do I need to worry and get belt on there? AC in the UK is only needed 3 days a year (if were lucky) so not worried if i don't have it.
Trucks a 6.9 Diesel
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The other day I was driving with the air on high, Since the van is rather old, the compressor is quite loud. All at once the blower and the compressor stopped working at the same time. now I have no heat, defroster, vent plus when I slide the selector to AC. the compressor does not kick on.
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The part that appears in the pic I have attached to this post has been making a lot of noise lately - ping, bang, knock etc... but the car has driven fine for a few months like that. but today it seized up causing the belt to smoke and make a squealing noise - I was stuck in a parking lot so I just cut the belt off and drove home - now the car runs great - it no longer makes noise and I was watching the gauges and seems like no difference at all during my 5 mile trip home.
So my question to you car pros is - how important is that part? I'm low income in a ghetto apartment so money is tight and getting money for car repairs is hard right now - I assume that part is an oil pump and don't oil pumps just circulate oil just to clean it through the filter or is there something I am missing? Can I safely run the car without that part?
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Just replaced my rear gas tank. Drove for a week with no big issues. Started running a little rough just thought it was debri in the fuel line. While it was sitting for a few days fuel was coming out of the carburator. It drained 15 gallons of fuel from the tank. There was pressure building in the tank when I took off the gas cap. Dropped fuel tank and everything seems to be hooked up ok. Put it back now added gas now the truck wont start even using starting fluid.
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My indicator lights are all out. The turn signals work correctly, as do the dash lights themselves, but all of the warning lights are out. The truck sat for three years and I have just gotten it back on the road.
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I got my grandpa's 84 ford f250 its been sitting in the barn for awhile but i drove it over to my house yesterday and it drove fine but you did have to push on the brake quite a bit but not to bad but today after school i took it for a drive around the block and i noticed that when i was going down hill just coasting i was slowing down a lot and my foot was not on the brake but when i got home my breaks were smoking pretty good but tomorrow i was going to take the front breaks off (its only the front two disk breaks doing this) and clean all the rust off them and put a little oil on the piston on the caliper that pushes on the break pads...
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My air conditioner had a problem a few years ago. While idling in the driveway on a really hot day the clutch on the compressor froze and nearly burned the belt off of the pulleys before I killed the AC. I continued to drive the vehicle for several months but without using the AC.
Fast forward 5 years (almost) and I just finished installing a new engine and putting a shift kit in the transmission.
Remembering the original AC problem I know that I need to get this fixed. I noticed while checking all the engine functions that the compressor clutch is not stuck any more (maybe all the oil leaking onto it worked with this).
As it stands now, the AC seems to cycle normally but it doesn't get cold and probably needs a charge at a minimum. Is it possible that the compressor clutch will work fine or is it a disaster waiting to happen? What else should I check in the AC system?
I'm not against replacing the whole system or any single part of it. I am also not sure whether the AC uses R12 or R134. How can I tell?
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I have a F150, 97, 4.6L. I changed my Suspension belt, and now my A/C compressor is not engaging. This has happened before, and when I took it to the shop, they called me and said the A/C works just fine. They did not tell me why the A/C stopped engaging or what they did. I tried to locate a relay fuse, but I can't find it.
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I have a problem with my A/C Compressor. The other day while going down the freeway my belt started squealing for a few seconds then stopped. Yesterday when my wife was driving it did it again, and then another time while at idle and the engine struggled and almost died.
I went to look at it last night thinking maybe the belt was loose, but what i found was when the A/C Tried to engage, you here the click, and you see the compressor clutch jolt but not spin. It tries to engage 3-4 times before the system stops and the ac light blinks. Also found some burnt belt on the clutch pully. To me it sounds like the Compressor is locked up or frozen somehow inside.
My first instinct is to get a new compressor. Ive done a bit of mechanic work but not much on A/C. If i replace the compressor, do i just have a shop vac it out, replace, and recharge? car has 150,000 miles, do i need to replace any other components? 2002 V6 Camry....
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I have a 2001 Subaru Forester which has 165K miles. I had the timing belt changed at 105K per maintenance recommendations. I had the car in for service recently for brake pads, etc., and the dealer recommended replacing the drive belt for the AC.. which I did. 100 miles after this service, the car broke down unexpectedly. The dealer told us the AC compressor seized up... and this caused the drive belt to get caught on it and be shredded ... and with that, the sudden resistance from the drive belt on the crankshaft pulley caused the timing belt to slip out of sync and damage the interference design engine. Can that really happen? I surprised that this happened a few days after replacing a drive belt and wondered if somehow the service work done with the drive belt could have caused the problem. The dealer states the service work did not cause the problem. Is my recent service and damaged engine a coincidence as the dealer said or are they related?
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My 1990 f250 a/c has freon, and the compressor runs when i turn on the a/c but i get no cold air.
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I have a 2002 F250 on which the AC compressor clutch is not cycling: I have checked and added coolant so low pressure is correct (don't have high pressure gauge). I checked the clutch air gap and it is at 0.030 " as specified in another post. I replaced the low pressure AC cycling switch (on the evaporator/dryer). With the AC on, I disconnected the AC cutoff switch and the clutch disengages. This circuit has the correct (>10V) going to it. I am thinking it could have something to do with the AC relay.
When you switch the ATC to a setting other than AC or Max AC, the clutch disengages fine. I noticed this problem because the AC shuts off when it is really hot, after I have been driving for a long while, about 1 hour or more. If you shut off AC, wait a few minutes, then turn on it works fine.
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My belt was making a screaming squeaky noise to wake up the dead. I used dish soap on it and it got quiet as long as I remember to bring the dish soap. My mechanic looked at my AC and told me I need a new compressor (he is a friend I trust) Now the AC comp turns but the belt seems to go on and off. And, the weird thing is-the AC feels great! Am I to expect any moment for it to just stop working? So, what to expect from my dead or dying compressor?
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My truck has been blowing HOT when I put the A/C on. I suspected the blend door actuator and changed it out. I later discovered that the A/C fuse is blowing when compressor tries to kick in. I pulled clutch/compressor plug and fuse still blew. When I pulled plug on pressure switch fuse held. I put a fused jumper onto plug for pressure switch and fuse in cab held but fuse in jumper blew. Put cheapo can gauge on low side and it went to "warning' status (high, without compressor running). Is it a clogged something or is it electrical?
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I just bought a used 2009 corolla, turns out a few weeks in, I am getting the infamous water pump/ac compressor clicking noise from the drive belt area.
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I have an early 99 F250. The a/c compressor stopped working. Have checked pressures, switches, freon etc. Found the switch in the dash is not getting power to send to the compressor. Where the feed for this switch is? I have checked all fuses, all good. The manual does not show a relay as being an a/c relay, so I am stumped without taking it somewhere now but I would like to avoid that.
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I have a 2004 Honda Element and when the AC compressor cycles on it makes a high pitched noise similar to a drive belt slipping. The AC is still cold and the noise is not overwhelming (yet). I know this vehicle has a serpentine belt and that doesn't appear to be making any noise. The only noise is when the compressor is running.
Is there a belt that drives the compressor (other than the serpentine)? And, is this something that I should get fixed ASAP or can it wait until my next oil change? Meaning, if I wait until the oil change (under 1,800 miles) will hurt anything?
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I have a 2003 f250 6.0. Recently, I have noticed that my air conditioner will work at first but once the compressor cycles off it does not come back on. I end up having to turn the a/c controls to off and wait about 5 min then turn them back on and it will work for a about 5 min then blow warm air again.
This happens more when towing rather than just driving around. I have changed out the sensor on the canister but it was no dice. The system is charged to the correct level according to my gauge. This occurs more often on hotter days than any.
While the truck has been running and the system is malfunctioning, I have crawled under the truck and noticed the center wheel of the compressor is not turning but can be turned by hand. Do I need a new compressor or am I missing something else that would be simpler?
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Is it normal for condensation to form and then leak under the compressor? it stops when the ac is off or the truck. I have a 2004 ford f-250.
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Got a 06 F250 V8 Gas. Went to turn AC on the other week & got warm air out vents. Put 1 can of 134 in & the gauge on the "kit" said it was in the green. It was working last summer. You can turn the compressor "face" so it's not locked up, but it's not kicking in. Swapped the replay with another one & the 10a fuse in the fusebox under the steering wheel is good. Is that the only ones? I find it hard to believe that it's something serious. We did change the belt a few weeks ago & I was hoping that we had pulled a wire loose. The vacuum line that plugs into the heater hoses is plugged in.
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1999 F250 SD 5.4 with 140k miles. There is a triangular plate with a bolt in the center and and what looks like a bolt in each corner of the plate.
Two of three bolts in the plate are missing and the third is loose allowing the plate to spin freely. Center bolt is tight.
Gotten to the point it's really noisy. Can the bolts be replaced in the plate or should I just go ahead and replace compressor. If bolts are replaceable what size?
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