I have a 83 F350 with the 6.9 that I am trying to put back together. I am currently working on the A/C system and I and needing the A/C Bracket for the compressor.
I have found a few gassers and in my area but no 6.9s yet. So I was wondering if these brackets are interchangeable or not?
I read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
1999 F350 4x4 dually. Replacing brakes front and back. Rotors, Pads, and hoses. On the left front put rotor back on and torqued down hub nuts on rotor. Then caliper mounting bracket wouldn't fit back between mounting bracket and rotor. Loosened the hub nuts on rotor, and fit mounting bracket in place. Then torqued down the hub nuts again, and rotor rubs on mounting bracket and rotor/hub won't turn.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 F350 with 6.8L V10 with 135k on it. I bought the truck 2 months ago and have started fixing things slowly on it. It has started to get warm here in NY so it is time to get the AC working. I started out with fresh parts. New AC compressor loaded with clutch, New receiver/dryer, new orifice tube. removed old compressor which was completely missing the clutch on the compressor, pulley spun but the shaft is locked up. i installed all the new components and went to test the system to make sure the compressor clutch would work. There is NO R134a in the system, again wanted to make sure clutch would work before spending the money on putting the refrigerant in to the system.
I jumped the 2 pressure switches to fool the system into thinking that there was refrigerant, and no lock up, no power at the connector. i tried removing the jumper from the lower sensor, pluging it back in, leaving the upper jumped, and same result. i then swapped the jumpers again. no jumper on top, jumper on bottom. no dice. i check both sensor connectors and they both have power going to the sensors. I have checked the fuse in the fuse box in the cabin and everything is fine there, i have the proper 12v in and out of the fuse. i have checked the what i believe to be the WOT relay in the engine bay on driver side fire wall and wiring seems correct there.
I have tried to find information on the diode that is in the circuit but have pretty much found that either the fuses will blow or it should work. i could not find too much information on it honestly. Everything i found was relating to F150s or explorers. I am going to a friends shop tomorrow to vacuum and fill the system..
I purchased an 89 F350 460 EFI factory air. The air worked fine for the first 6 hour on the drive home then It just stopped blowing cold. When I got home I saw the air gap on the clutch was quite wide so I took the washers out, still was too wide. I could only get the clutch to pull in if I tapped it in by hand and it only stayed in for a short time. This was all last fall.
Today I replaced the clutch, compressor and drier, took it in and had it charged. They replaced the pressure switch because the compressor cycle on and off. Even after replacing the switch it still cycles on and off and I still have no air! They removed some of the charge but still no air. The clutch pulls in and runs for 2 sec every 15- 20 seconds. I assume the reason it cycles is a high pressure. What should I be looking at now?????
My 6.0 is cooling poorly . Clutch is engaging , condenser free of obstructions, static charge L95 , H. 105. Running psi at 94 ambient is 50 and 225. This morning with cooler ambient in mid 70's it was 40 and 200. I'm thinking compressor .
View 9 RepliesI have a 02 f350 can not get power to a/c compressor have power at high pressure And low pressure can run a hot wire and ground to compressor and it works.
View 1 RepliesMy A/C was blowing warm air so I purchased a can of A/C PRO at a local parts store a couple weeks ago. My system was so low the compressor would not come on. I put a 20oz can in and the compressor started working. I let the truck idle for the recommended fifteen minutes, the air was not so cold anymore, and the gauge was reading low.
So, off I went to the parts store to buy another can. It is in the correct range on the gauge now. I was wondering how accurate the gauge was on this can so I had a friend hook up his professional A/C gauges and it was reading the same as the one on the can. I took the truck for an hour drive last weekend with the family to a lake for a picnic and noticed the A/C started blowing a bit warmer air, so I shut it off and rolled down the windows. I have noticed after all this my compressor does not cycle off and on, it just stays on even when the ambient temp is 65 degrees.
I checked the pressure yesterday and it is holding in the correct range still. I am wondering about the air gap in the clutch so I borrowed my neighbor's feeler gauges today and checked my air gap. It was about .037" so I removed the clutch and took out the only shim. Put it back together and it is .021" ran the truck and the clutch did not turn until I turned on the A/C, then it engaged. Hooked up my low pressure gauge and checked the pressure and it read 24 psi with the fan on low. The ambient temperature at this point is 70 degrees.
I put a meat thermometer in the vent closest to the steering wheel and after just a couple minutes, it was reading 40 degrees. I turned the fan on high and noticed the pressure went to 35 psi and the temperature in the vent started to rise. I turned the fan back down to low and the pressure dropped back to 24 psi and the temperature went back down to 40 degrees. I noticed the clutch still is not cycling it just stays running. I left the gauge hooked up to see what the pressure was off and it read about 94 to 95 psi.
I recently picked up a 2005 F350 6.0. I got it cheap with a plugged oil cooler, and went in planning to do studs, gaskets, and all the Ford updates just to have it out of the way. When taking it apart, I quickly noticed that the compressor was damaged. Looks to me like some foreign object(s) entered the turbo, would bounce off the wheel, impact the cover, and repeat.
Engine seemed to run great. Turbo spooled quickly and while I wasn't paying close attention, I'd glance when accelerating and it'd be in the neighborhood of 27 PSI. Engine cranks evenly and starts well, so there's no obvious engine damage. I'll inspect the bores closely with the heads off.
So my main question: Assuming no damage elsewhere, Do I need just a wheel? There is some pitting and high spots on the cover, but could it be carefully worked down with the cover removed? Do I just need to get a wheel and a cover? Or just a whole new turbo? Looking for a budget-friendly option to remedy this properly.
Trucks compressor kicks on and off and won't stay on no cold air at all do i have a leak ? The truck came whit a new canister that mounts in front of the air box could it be that?
View 8 RepliesI have just installed air bags on my 2015 F350 DRW and looking for a location for the air compressor and control unit for the wireless manifold.
View 14 RepliesI just brought home an 04 F350. It is a V10, 6 speed, with 30,600 verified miles on it. It runs and drives fantastic, and that V10 is impressive! I am very impressed. I have noticed that the compressor cycles, even with the dial in the off position. Is this normal for the super duty, or is something amiss? If something is wrong, what direction do I look in?
View 13 RepliesSeems like my 2001 f350 7.3 has an ac freon leak on pass side near compressor. AC is blowing coolish air but not cold like is should be. There is green like oil around main line leading out of ac compressor. I have attached several pics to illustrate situation.
View 7 RepliesSingle air compressor pressure switch issue. New switch installed still same problem. When hot outside (90) compressor will turn off for several minutes then turn on. System blows cold when running with pressure 35/190. If I jump the pressure switch on the accumulator it runs full time fine no issues. Connect the switch and it will drop out while still running 35/190.
View 2 RepliesTruck has no spark except when you first turn key on it sparks or right when you let off from cranking it will give one spark. You can be cranking it and nothing and when you let off it kinda acts like it wants to start for a millisecond.
View 11 RepliesI have a friend of mine that has a 1983 and he had me change the water pump in it because it started leaking and it has been sitting for 7 Months now. I changed that but I can't get this bugger to start. I used to be a mechanic in a past life so I know what I'm doing most of the time so let me explain what has transpired here.
I attached my remote starter, turned on the key and cranked over the engine after shooting a little bit of starting fluid in the carb and she cranks over but won't start. I then pulled the #1 spark plug out and then did the same thing to check for spark and nada. I put my light tester on the coil and there was power. I have run into this kind of problem years ago with other vehicles so I thought I would just go ahead and replace the Coil and also the Control Module. After replacing these parts, still no spark. Since the distributor is there only to distribute the spark (meaning no electrical connections to it) I'm assuming that the Pick Up part that is down by the Crank shaft might be bad.
How to test either the Control Module or the pick up. I'm trying to diagnose this problem without needing to remove the module and taking them to the parts house for testing. (long drive). These wires should have 12 volts when the key is off and these wires should have 12 volts when the key is on.... and so on.
I recently bought my grandfather's old F-150, its a 1983 model with the 351w and the 7200VV carb. I replaced the distributor cap & rotor, plugs, wires, and fluids. The truck idles just fine in park/neutral, but when I shift it into reverse or drive, it stalls out. There is a valve of some kind attached to the carburetor, and it opens and closes rapidly as the truck dies (in time with its sputtering) so I think it may be the cause of the problem. I have not been able to find much info on that carburetor, but I think that valve is a fuel temperature system that meters the amount of fuel going to the carb depending on is temp. Can I replace that part without having to replace the whole carburetor?
View 10 RepliesHaving Cruise control issues. A diagram would be useful. Most of the early CC systems work the same way but have discovered there are variants in wire color codes. Specifically looking for Cruise Control wiring schematics for 83 econoline.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1983 ranger with a YFA. I recently took it apart and in the process of the rebuild I noticed the metal gasket was still in the spot where the needle pin goes. It has adhered to the carb. Any way to get it un-stuck? Also, there is a module, and the gasket comes in the rebuild kit so I know it belongs, the part number begins with 2I3 but the rest came off with the dirt. What is it for and would it hurt anything if it wasn't plugged in? It hasn't been since I bought it.
View 2 Replies I recently bought a 1983 Ford Ranger Diesel pickup truck (2.2L Mazda engine, manual transmission). The dealer said to expect a little above 30 mpg on fuel mileage but the two fill-ups I've done show an average fuel mileage of 22 mpg. About half of these are highway miles.
I thought diesels are supposed to have good mileage. Is this typical for my year and model truck? Is there any way to increase the mileage? I just replaced the air and fuel filters and also changed the oil and oil filters.
My 1983 Ranger is in the shop. I'm being told that I need to replace the shifter assembly. I understand that this is a Mazda part, from a TK5 transmission. These parts are interchangable between bronco ii's of the same era.
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