Ford A/C :: 1983 F350 - Bracket For Compressor


Jul 30, 2016

I have a 83 F350 with the 6.9 that I am trying to put back together. I am currently working on the A/C system and I and needing the A/C Bracket for the compressor.

I have found a few gassers and in my area but no 6.9s yet. So I was wondering if these brackets are interchangeable or not?

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Ford A/C :: 2005 F350 - No Power At Compressor

I have a 2005 F350 with 6.8L V10 with 135k on it. I bought the truck 2 months ago and have started fixing things slowly on it. It has started to get warm here in NY so it is time to get the AC working. I started out with fresh parts. New AC compressor loaded with clutch, New receiver/dryer, new orifice tube. removed old compressor which was completely missing the clutch on the compressor, pulley spun but the shaft is locked up. i installed all the new components and went to test the system to make sure the compressor clutch would work. There is NO R134a in the system, again wanted to make sure clutch would work before spending the money on putting the refrigerant in to the system.

I jumped the 2 pressure switches to fool the system into thinking that there was refrigerant, and no lock up, no power at the connector. i tried removing the jumper from the lower sensor, pluging it back in, leaving the upper jumped, and same result. i then swapped the jumpers again. no jumper on top, jumper on bottom. no dice. i check both sensor connectors and they both have power going to the sensors. I have checked the fuse in the fuse box in the cabin and everything is fine there, i have the proper 12v in and out of the fuse. i have checked the what i believe to be the WOT relay in the engine bay on driver side fire wall and wiring seems correct there.

I have tried to find information on the diode that is in the circuit but have pretty much found that either the fuses will blow or it should work. i could not find too much information on it honestly. Everything i found was relating to F150s or explorers. I am going to a friends shop tomorrow to vacuum and fill the system..

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Ford A/C :: 1989 F350 - Compressor Cycling On And Off

I purchased an 89 F350 460 EFI factory air. The air worked fine for the first 6 hour on the drive home then It just stopped blowing cold. When I got home I saw the air gap on the clutch was quite wide so I took the washers out, still was too wide. I could only get the clutch to pull in if I tapped it in by hand and it only stayed in for a short time. This was all last fall.

Today I replaced the clutch, compressor and drier, took it in and had it charged. They replaced the pressure switch because the compressor cycle on and off. Even after replacing the switch it still cycles on and off and I still have no air! They removed some of the charge but still no air. The clutch pulls in and runs for 2 sec every 15- 20 seconds. I assume the reason it cycles is a high pressure. What should I be looking at now?????

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Ford A/C :: 2004 F350 6.0 - Not Cooling Properly - Compressor?

My 6.0 is cooling poorly . Clutch is engaging , condenser free of obstructions, static charge L95 , H. 105. Running psi at 94 ambient is 50 and 225. This morning with cooler ambient in mid 70's it was 40 and 200. I'm thinking compressor .

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My A/C was blowing warm air so I purchased a can of A/C PRO at a local parts store a couple weeks ago. My system was so low the compressor would not come on. I put a 20oz can in and the compressor started working. I let the truck idle for the recommended fifteen minutes, the air was not so cold anymore, and the gauge was reading low.

So, off I went to the parts store to buy another can. It is in the correct range on the gauge now. I was wondering how accurate the gauge was on this can so I had a friend hook up his professional A/C gauges and it was reading the same as the one on the can. I took the truck for an hour drive last weekend with the family to a lake for a picnic and noticed the A/C started blowing a bit warmer air, so I shut it off and rolled down the windows. I have noticed after all this my compressor does not cycle off and on, it just stays on even when the ambient temp is 65 degrees.

I checked the pressure yesterday and it is holding in the correct range still. I am wondering about the air gap in the clutch so I borrowed my neighbor's feeler gauges today and checked my air gap. It was about .037" so I removed the clutch and took out the only shim. Put it back together and it is .021" ran the truck and the clutch did not turn until I turned on the A/C, then it engaged. Hooked up my low pressure gauge and checked the pressure and it read 24 psi with the fan on low. The ambient temperature at this point is 70 degrees.

I put a meat thermometer in the vent closest to the steering wheel and after just a couple minutes, it was reading 40 degrees. I turned the fan on high and noticed the pressure went to 35 psi and the temperature in the vent started to rise. I turned the fan back down to low and the pressure dropped back to 24 psi and the temperature went back down to 40 degrees. I noticed the clutch still is not cycling it just stays running. I left the gauge hooked up to see what the pressure was off and it read about 94 to 95 psi.

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I recently picked up a 2005 F350 6.0. I got it cheap with a plugged oil cooler, and went in planning to do studs, gaskets, and all the Ford updates just to have it out of the way. When taking it apart, I quickly noticed that the compressor was damaged. Looks to me like some foreign object(s) entered the turbo, would bounce off the wheel, impact the cover, and repeat.

Engine seemed to run great. Turbo spooled quickly and while I wasn't paying close attention, I'd glance when accelerating and it'd be in the neighborhood of 27 PSI. Engine cranks evenly and starts well, so there's no obvious engine damage. I'll inspect the bores closely with the heads off.

So my main question: Assuming no damage elsewhere, Do I need just a wheel? There is some pitting and high spots on the cover, but could it be carefully worked down with the cover removed? Do I just need to get a wheel and a cover? Or just a whole new turbo? Looking for a budget-friendly option to remedy this properly.

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Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2006 F350 6.0 - AC Compressor Kicks On And Off

Trucks compressor kicks on and off and won't stay on no cold air at all do i have a leak ? The truck came whit a new canister that mounts in front of the air box could it be that?

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I attached my remote starter, turned on the key and cranked over the engine after shooting a little bit of starting fluid in the carb and she cranks over but won't start. I then pulled the #1 spark plug out and then did the same thing to check for spark and nada. I put my light tester on the coil and there was power. I have run into this kind of problem years ago with other vehicles so I thought I would just go ahead and replace the Coil and also the Control Module. After replacing these parts, still no spark. Since the distributor is there only to distribute the spark (meaning no electrical connections to it) I'm assuming that the Pick Up part that is down by the Crank shaft might be bad.

How to test either the Control Module or the pick up. I'm trying to diagnose this problem without needing to remove the module and taking them to the parts house for testing. (long drive). These wires should have 12 volts when the key is off and these wires should have 12 volts when the key is on.... and so on.

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I thought diesels are supposed to have good mileage. Is this typical for my year and model truck? Is there any way to increase the mileage? I just replaced the air and fuel filters and also changed the oil and oil filters.

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