Ford A/C :: 1979 F150 - Air Out Of The Vents Is Only Dropping 20 Degrees Max
Jul 23, 2012
I have a 1979 Ford F150 1/2 ton P/U XLT, 4WD 6.6L 2BL OHV 8cyl that I'm trying to put A/C back in. The truck had factory air, but the evaporator is the only original part in this setup (along with the controls inside the cab on the dashboard).
The new compressor is working. All the pressures look good (the low side is around 35 to 40). But we're finding that the air out of the vents is only dropping 20 degrees max. We've checked to see if the blend door was not working and it was getting heat from the heater core. We blocked off the heater core completely with the same results. It just doesn't seem to be getting cool enough. The large fittings on the firewall should be cold (maybe 40 degrees), but it's only cooling to about 79 degrees, about a 15 degree drop.
We cannot see into the evaporator box to see if there is an expansion valve in the system, but we did not put an expansion valve in with the new system we put on.
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1979 ford f-150, 460 w/ 4bbl. Carb recently rebuilt by professional, but on cold mornings (in particular) runs rough even after a little warm (just like me), like the choke isn't clicked or clacked (couldn't resist) off. Can the choke flap and mechanism be gunked up, needs some cleaner applied?
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I am looking to change out my manual transmission in my 79 f150. I want to put a 5 speed in it but still keep my manual clutch. I have a 300 engine that I also want to keep, can I just put a late 80's early 90's 5 speed transmission in it and keep my original bell housing?
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I used my truck in 4x to pull a couple of little stumps. Nothing major, just put it in 4l more or less to keep from tearing up the yard. Noticed a couple of weird things today. For a minute had a good pull to the right. Just felt "weIrd" in front end. For lack of a better explanation. Jacked up and checked for play, nothing unusual. Took off the tire and checked other stuff and couldn't find anything. Lubed up joints etc and drove later. I'm hearing a slight " clanking" noise in front. I know it's got something to do with the 4wd but I don't know where to start.
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79 F150 400/C6 2wd. Loss of reverse and it doesn't want to stay in high.
Strange thing happened today. I took my truck on it's longest test drive since rebuilding the transmission. It was about 25 miles. I got to the junk yard just fine and it was running just fine when I left. I went through a drive through to grab a burger and headed home. That's when it started acting funny. It shifted fine 1st to 2nd, then 2nd to 3rd, but it wouldn't stay in 3rd. It would shift into high, but the slightest bit of throttle and it would shift back into 2nd and eventually got so bad that it just stayed in 2nd, so I had to return to the town I was leaving.
I drove to an autoparts store nearby. I decided to move where I was parked and when I put it into reverse, nothing was there. It rolled back. I drove it to the new spot and called for a tow truck. Weird thing is that reverse worked just 10 minutes earlier when I left the junk yard. When I got it home 2 hours later, it backed up under it's own power. I let it cool down completely and took it for a test drive and it drove perfectly. I have a few theories or questions:
Kickdown rod: Can it be in such a position that it could take away reverse? I would assume that if the spring wasn't returning it all the way forward that it wouldn't have shifted from 1st to 2nd properly. I ask this because I am not using the Holley spring mount and I'm wondering if the wrong spring set up allows the kickdown to be partially activated.
Fluid: What fluid are you suppose to use after a rebuild and what fluid can't you use. Mercon V says it supercedes earlier fluids, but is that wrong?
Am I wrong to assume that if fluid was the problem that I would have had problems with 1st and 2nd?
Cooling: What are signs of hot fluid other than smelling it. Once again, assuming I would have problems with all gears if fluid was too hot.
My guess is that something is sticking in the valve body, but before I drop the pan and pull out the valve body, I want to make sure all other avenues are exhausted.
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I have a '79 F150 4wd and was wondering what would indicate a caliper needing replacement. I'm already going to replace everything on my rear brakes, they are completely trashed. However, the fronts seem OK, NO indications of leaks or seizing both sides of the rotors appear to be evenly "used" I guess. The inner pads do seem to be thicker than the outer pads is this normal? Anything I should be specifically looking for before I have the rotors turned and put a new set of pads on?
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My F-150 ac shuts down when air temp reaches above 80 degrees. The freon has been checked, the compressor clutch cycling switch & high pressure switch have been replaced with no effect.
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I've had a fuel leak near the pump of my 79 F150 with a 400 for some time. I didn't know exactly where it was coiming from, but fuel was being sprayed on to the oil filter from something near the pump. I assumed it was the steel line, and that it had rusted through or cracked, and was going to replace it when I had a chance. I was poking around today though, and realized that the fuel was not leaking from the line, but from a hole in the side of the mechanical pump.
For someone who knows what these pumps look like, there is a horizontal cylindrical bump out near the top of the pump, on the side of the pump that is away from the engine. The fuel is spraying in a mist out of one side of that. To me, it always seemed to be a screw channel, but I didn't think the pump was 2 halves put together? Need to know more about my pump, what that bumped out section is, or why/how fuel could be spraying out of it.
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I was driving for work in the Coachella Valley (Palm Springs) today - it was 109 degrees. I hop in the car after a work visit, the vent covers open, but nothing comes out. The fan is blowing full blast - but no air was coming out of any vents. I tried manual mode, foot, defrost, off, etc. to no effect. I reset the climate system, reset all, no dice. Soon, the fan turned off, paused a couple seconds, then turned back on again and tried again to the safe effect. I turned off the ignition and turned it back on. Nothing. Drove to my next stop and parked. I came out, started up again - this time air comes out of the vents, but it's hot.
I took the car to the nearest VW dealer, and the foreman came out with his diagnostic tool (the big one - not the VAG-COM) and told me their were 23 faults with the air conditioning system.
One other interesting thing - my thermometer was going nuts at the same time. It was 109, but the thermometer quickly went up to 126 degrees within a few minutes - the engine temperature went up or got hot.
The good (?) news is I don't think this would have been covered under warranty, because their aren't any broken parts - just needs a recharge...at least that's what it looks like now.
The early diagnosis is that I need an A/C recharge, and if the refrigerant gets even a little low, the entire system shuts off.
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My 2012 f150 AC is blowing out of the defrost for a couple of minutes on start up. The AC will begin to blow out of the dash vents then will switch back to the defrost vents before blowing out of the dash vents for the remainder of the trip.
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My A/C is blowing cold but only thru the defrost vents. First it was blowing normally from the dash but during acceleration or under load, the a/c would randomly blow from any vent, from the floor, dash, defrost. Now that stopped and it only blows from the defrost vents above the dash-board.
1997 F-150 XLT, 4.2 Liter, V6, manual transmission.
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I just picked up a 78 F150 Ranger XLT with a 351M in it this past friday. I am absolutely in LOVE with her. She is a great solid truck. One issue I am having though is that she blows hot air out the vents over the hump but nothing is coming out the top of the dash. I am guessing that i will have to take the dash off and clean out the box check the door etc. What did you do to rectify?
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Grill blocked today for the first time and have a couple questions.
Temps have been dropping more these last 3-4 days and have noticed my MPG dropping as well so I thought I'd try grill blocking.
Tempts have been and will be high 30s-low 40s in the morning and upper 50s to mid 60s for the high.
At first I just wedged the pipe insulation and drove one trip. I didn't feel comfortable that it would hold for the long haul so I added zip ties.
I used two pieces of pipe insulation 1/2 inch copper / 3/8 inch iron. Up close it looks like 2/3 or 3/4 of the grill is covered.
My two questions:
For fWT, at what temperature should it not exceed?
At what outside temperature should I remove the pipe insulation? In the Phoenix area, temperatures rise in March and sometimes we will have a short period of warmer than normal temps in February. I just want to make sure I do not cause overheating.
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I have a 79 ford and a 400 engine that i put a 1411 on and it backfires when you hit the gas it is worse when you drive it then when it is just sitting there.
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I recently found out that my check valve needs replacing for my a/c vacuum. The problem came from when I turn my AC on, the panel vents do not work. Instead, the Defrost vents push the AC air out. How to replace the vacuum check valve? I would like to avoid the high cost of dealership prices.
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I don't have a Ranger or B-Series, but I do have Ford's older B-Series counterpart. 1979 Ford Courier, 2.3L/5-spd. I have had a bad rear end shake since I bought the truck nearly three years ago, so I'm sure it existed well before then. It only happens around 60-65 mph, and there is also a kind of buzzing/humming sound whenever I'm coasting to a stop in neutral. I have:
Replaced and balanced the tires several times
Rotated the tires several times
Replaced all four wheel bearings
Replaced steering linkage
Replaced front suspension
Balanced driveshaft twice
Replaced driveshaft center bearing
Replaced all three U-joints
Checked rear wheel lateral and radial runout
Had the front end aligned three or four times
Checked engine and trans. mounts
And yet the issue persists. I am stumped and this problem is driving me bonkers!
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Just installed new clutch and everything good except pedal doesnt comecall way up now have pull up with foot, ans grabs rt off the floor, i assume just need to adjust? Make adjust rod longer?
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Got my 1979 Ford Bronco (351M engine) from my father. He had it in Colorado, mostly in a garage. Had 82,000 miles when I got it and has 67,000 miles now. Runs fine when the outside temperature is less than 80F. Above 80F, the will get hotter and hotter and the temp. gauge will climb. When the temp. gauge is 2/3 of the wat between Cool and Hot it will start to buck and cut out. Eventually the engine will stop. Then I have to wait for it to cool down to repeat the cycle. I have replaced all hoses, radiator, thermostat (3 times), radiator cap, carb. I have installed SS louvers in the hood. Heck, I have even "burbed" it (see Internet).
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my 79 Bronco tail lights only are stuck on with the key on? the brake lights and blinkers and headlights work fine and (all the running lights) work fine when turned on, but with all the switches off and key on only my tail light running lights stay on?
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I swapped in a manual trans in my 79 f250 4x4 about a year ago. i had the trans gone through before i put it in. I installed a new luk clutch, resurfaced the flywheel, new throw out bearing, etc.
Ever since i installed it there was always a clunking noise in the trans. I drove it and didn't think much about it until recently where im just fed up with it. the trans always shifted nice and tight with no grinding.
In the past few weeks i picked up a parts truck for the trans thinking that's what my problem was. I drove the truck before i pulled it and it mad no noises whatsoever. I had it gone through and reasealed it before i installed it. I pulled my old trans and it still looked good with no slop on the input shaft(which i thought that was the problem). I installed the new one and once again same noise.
I decided to pull the trans again this time pulling the bellhousing and checking the clutch. It looked like new to me still and i saw nothing abnormal. Put it back together and still the same. I swapped the transfer case too, checked both driveshafts all is good. I am thinking its coming from the bellhousing(maybe the clutch is bad)
So here is a video and you can hear what I am talking about it happens mostly when I engage the clutch and i am coasting. it is much louder now with no carpet and the trans hump cover off.
Np 435 transmission clunk - YouTube
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I have a 1979 f-250 4x4 with a 351m. The problem I am having is my starter keeps running after the truck starts and also after I shut off the key. I didn't get the battery unhooked in time today and it completely melted the lug off on the solenoid, but the other wires were barley warm. What could be causing this problem? The battery is new, the cables are new and the Sol. was new. Maybe the switch or the starter?
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