Ford A/C :: 1977 - Low Side Fitting Not Cool To The Touch
Apr 27, 2011
I just changed my 77 truck over to a Serpentine belt set up and used parts from a 90 F150. I didn't flush the system, but I did replace the drier and added oil the way that was suggested in another thread (by measuring what came out of the York). I pulled a vacuum for 40 minutes then let it sit for 30 minutes and it held just fine, so I went ahead and started charging the system. My pressures seem to be right with the low side about 50 and high side 175 with it about 85^ outside.
The air isn't blowing very cold, it's more cool, and the low side fitting doesn't feel cool to the touch the way it did when I had the York compressor on there. So I'm confused and wondering if the compressor I took off the 90 is bad. One thing I noticed is when I shut the truck off was that the pressures equalized almost instantly, when the York was on there it took it a while for the pressures to equalize. Is this a clue that the compressor is bad or is that how newer one's work?
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I got in my 1977 f150 V8 windsor the other day and headed down the road. All of a sudden I started to hear this sound that only way I can describe it is a big log chain moving around or a box of washers being moved around. I got out, popped the hood and thought at first that it was a pulley somewhere on the front of the engine, perhaps water pump pulley or something like that. The closer I got my ear to engine though I think it is coming from the back passenger side of the engine, not the front. I could be wrong about that, but I do know it is coming from the passenger side of the engine. Sometimes it will go away for 1/4 of a mile and then come back. I also noticed that it gets faster when I give it gas and slower when I don't, which is why I was thinking it had to be one of the pulleys going bad. I'm not so sure though because I think it may be coming from the passenger back part of the engine.
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So I had a stuck caliper on the driver rear side. I pushed the piston back and checked everything to make sure all was in working order. After some though and reading about the calipers getting stuck which old brake lines, I decided to upgrade the line with the Russell stainless steal lines.
I got all the lines put in but I seem to have fluid leaking on the passenger side fitting which I can't seem to get to stop. I put the old line back in but it is still leaking. I am not sure what I need to do or check to get it to stop. It seems to be leaking from the thread area. I checked the fittings and they don't look cross threaded so I don't understand why it may be happening.
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My wife drives a 2010 Hyundai Elantra with a 5 speed manual trans with about 40K mi on it . We purchased the service maintenance package that covers all scheduled major and regular maintenance. A year ago they replaced the head gasket because they discovered a small oil seep. This was covered by the warranty.
Well a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the heat is fine on the drivers side and blows cool on the passenger side. This is a problem particularly when defrosting the windshield. When she brought it in for the next scheduled service a couple of days ago I asked that she mention this problem to the service people.
Their response was "we need to do a cooling system flush which would not be covered by the service contract" to the tune of a couple a hundred bucks. The coolant is the transparent green it should be due to it being changed one year ago so I have my doubts about it being the heater core.
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My wife drives a 2010 Hyundai Elantra with a 5speed manual trans with about 40K mi on it . We purchased the service maintenance package that covers all scheduled major and regular maintenance. A year ago they replaced the head gasket because they discovered a small oil seep. Well a couple of weeks ago I noticed that the heat is fine on the drivers side and blows cool on the passenger side. This is a problem particularly when defrosting the windshield.
When she brought it in for the next scheduled service a couple of days ago I asked that she mention this problem to the service people. Their response was "we need to do a cooling system flush which would not be covered by the service contract" to the tune of a couple a hundred bucks. The coolant is the transparent green it should be due to it being changed one year ago so I have my doubts about it being the heater core.
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I own a 2008 Toyota Camry. Yesterday I noticed that cool air is only blowing out on the passenger side and not on the drivers side.I topped off my refrigerant to see if that was it, but that wasn't the problem. What could be the issue?
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2010 fx4 duel temp controls...
My driver side works great (heat and AC). My passenger side does not cool or heat properly. Not sure about the back.
From what I have read this is most likely the upper door actuator...Which is what I was hoping because the lower one is such a nightmare. Am I on the right track here?
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I was driving from home to work the other day and it was 6 degrees out. My heat was working good and everything was fine and then all of a sudden the passenger side started blowing cool air. Not cold not warm. Driver side was still hot. It is a lariat and has dual temp zones. Everything I read everyone says blender doors but what would make it stop working out of no where when everything was fine. Occasionally when I start my truck and turn the heat on it makes a popping noise under the dash when the blower kicks on. But it has done this since I owned it an never had an issue. It's 25 below today and I would really love to have completely functional heat. It's an 2008 f350.
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My GS350 came back from the body shop yesterday. Driver side rear door touch lock does not work. I'll take my car to the body shop next week, but I'm wondering what is causing this problem. Basically, I want to know how the door touch lock operates. Does it have any sensors attached to the door handle?
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My ac cool only passanger side and driver side didn't cool blow only air.
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I have a 2001 ram 1500 4x4. For the past 2 weeks, when I touch the brake pedal I can hearing a ticking noise coming from the front driverside wheel. The ticking frequency is speed dependent. I had the brakes replaced, and the shop could not find the ticking noise. The truck performs get and there are no braking problems other than the ticking sound, but now for the strange part...
My abs and brake light are now coming on. However, as soon as my abs and brake light come on, usually on the freeway around 65mph, the ticking noise from braking is gone. So with no abs and brake light, brand new brakes tick at the slightest touch of the brake pedal, with the ticking freq. equal to wheel revs.
With abs and brake light on, no ticking. Plus the shop said that I only have abs in the rear.
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Had a few warm days last week and noticed a lack of cooling from the HVAC system. Local temps cooled off a bit but I decided to see what I could find out before I got hot again.
Started playing with the system in the driveway and discovered good cooling capacity on the passenger side but just mildly cool air coming out of the drivers side vents. This seemed to be true on both the front and back. I hooked by laptop up and noticed single digit temps at the evaporator. When I brought the temps down on the climate control the right side exchanger would get down to around 12C but the Left would struggle to get to 22C and if I moved the passenger side requested temp up the drivers side exchanger temp would follow even though the requested temp on the drivers side was low. There was a display for the Left and Right regulating valves but they seemed parked at 0.0 unless I made a cabin temp change.
I am guessing the left regulating valve is the problem but know nothing of how this system works. 2004 Phaeton V8 ....
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I need a vacuum fitting for the front axle..... Where I can get one besides a dealer ?
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I bought a 1977 Ford truck a couple of years ago. It has factory air, but the compressor was removed and the hoses were capped and/or poorly taped off when I bought the truck.
I got the bright idea, I'd try to get the air going, but I didn't know anything about a/c systems. I bought a York type (same as what it would have had originally) compressor from Autozone. They told me it was for r134. I put it on the truck along with a new filter/dryer and new expansion valve.
I took the truck to the local shade tree mechanic and he stuck a el cheapo vacuum pump on it for a little while and threw some oil and two or three cans of r134 in it. Well... since then, two summers have passed and it has never worked right.
The compressor really vibrates at low rpms. The air is just barely cool enough to tease me into thinking I have air conditioning. I know this sounds odd, but it seems to work best after I've sat at a stop sign and then take off. It's like idling the engine allows it to "catch up to itself" and then when I drive about 30 mph after a stop sign it actually blows pretty cool for a couple of minutes. But at highway speeds it isn't cool at all. This seems to be the opposite of what I've read. I had the heater & a/c box all apart changing the heater core and all the doors and seals are in good shape inside it. I don't think I'm getting outside air in. At least not in any quantity.
Last summer a friend tried to had one of those cheap gauges and he tried to put some r134 in it but it didn't accept much at all; and it didn't work. I've had about as much as I can take. I need some air conditioning. Should I try to flush out the system, install a new filter/dryer, and get a fresh charge of r12? I'm concerned about trying that because the kid at Autozone told me the compressor was for r134.
I'm pretty confident I don't have any leaks in the system.
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Well the time has come where I don't like the way my brake lines look running to the back of the truck. Question is, What size are the fittings on the ends of the lines? I know I will have to special order the line that goes from the frame rail down to the rear axle tube, but is the line that goes from there to mid way frame rail a standard size? I don't want to have to order that if I don't have too.
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I have a 77 F100 2wd 302/c4. I recently replaced the rear plate to my gauge cluster after it crumbled to pieces. I swapped all the gauges to the new plate minus the fuel gauge since it decided it couldn't live if livin was without the old plate. I have a gauge cluster out of my 75 and decided to swap in my fuel gauge from that one. I put the cluster in the truck and fire it up for 10 mins or so and everything is working great except the temp gauge isn't moving. I figure it romeo and Juliet with the fuel gauge so I just swap all gauges from the 75 into the 77 cluster except the speedo. Same result.
So I figure its the sending unit now and maybe both gauges were fine to begin with. I put in a new sending unit and now the gauges works but the needle sits on the P in the word TEMP on the gauge which makes me uncomfortable. That's about 1/4 inch or so from being past the end of the gauge. I don't believe the truck is running that hot. The gauge was more or less straight vertical before the swap sitting right at the end of the E on TEMP. Did I get a bad sending unit? Is it a bad ground on the gauge? Was I supposed to take off the teflon tape that came on the threads of the sending unit? I'm gonna try removing that first and see if it lowers the needle.
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The battery light in my well used 1997 Ranger came on a few weeks ago. Only use the truck on the weekends. Battery reads 12v. Alternator putting out 14v. Replaced terminal clamps as they were in bad shape. Light is still on.
Weak battery possibly? Does it need to read higher than 12v for the light to be off, I wonder?
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I have a 77 F250 with a NP 205, when I lock it into 4H the 4wd works, when I lock it into 4L it goes into low range but the 4wd does not work. What the problem could be?
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I just had a former Ford tech rebuild my motorcraft 2150 2v on my '77 F250. I took it home, put it back on the truck and it ran kind of rough. I then went ahead and screwed both idle mix screws in untill seated, then back out two turns. The truck ran great, turned off truck then when it the house for dinner. Half an hour later I come back out...truck will not start, just sits and cranks. Finally got it started and it ran good, but crapped out after it warmed up. I have made sure there were no vac leaks when truck was running the first time. Did I adjust the mixture right?
The truck is a '77 F250 400/C6
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Have a 1977 ford f150 with 351m with a motorcraft 2150. Had ( who I believe was a reliable source ) rebuild carburetor for me and after putting back on I can only keep engine running with foot on pedal. I turn idle mixture screws all way in and then proceeded to back out equally. This does not appear to be doing anything. I did turn the choke 2 notches to lean and was able to get it to idle but it wasloping so bad i shut it down and put the choke back to the middle setting.
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I noticed last night while messing with my truck that I have a constant small spark on my throttle linkage on my carb. BTW, it's a 77F250 with a quick fuel Ethanol carb with an electronic choke. That really probably don't make a difference anyway. Is this a common thing and do I need to run a grounding wire from the carb to the rest of the engine?
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