Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Transmission Fluid Flow Route For Cooling?
Sep 25, 2015
I don't have ready access to my truck and I'm trying to buy new cooling parts when I rip out/replace my transmission. I searched the forum but can't find the simple answer I'm looking for regarding the route of the transmission fluid for cooling.
In my 2001, I thought the fluid comes out of the transmission to the radiator, then back to the transmission from last time I was looking at it underneath. But in the forum, it sounds the fluid would come out of the radiator and then into the air cooler in front of the radiator before back to the transmission.
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Well I was fueling the truck today and I opened to hood to check it out and noticed that there was no pressure in the cooling system by squeezing the upper hose. I did have a spare degas bottle cap and removed the old one slowly and replaced. I have been driving over 30 minutes and it is close to 100 degrees.
I then drove on down the road, the truck is not getting hot. I stopped to look at some running boards and the truck was running and then I came home and still no pressure, the truck is still running, I removed the cap and no pressure, I then removed the small hose going to the top of the degas tank and no coolant came out. I turned the truck off and disconnected the upper hose and some coolant did come out.
Is this normal? The truck runs just fine, just has me worried. I just bought the truck and the previous owner recently replaced the water pump, T-stat, hoses, etc. All parts were bought at O'Reilly. So everything looks good.
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My transmission on my 2002 7.3 4x4 is pouring fluid from somewhere above the rear of the pan. I thought it was the pan at first. I pulled it off and replaced the filter. After adding fluid while it was running for 4 or 5 minutes it started pouring again. It's not the pan. It's coming from above the pan somewhere. It won't leak unless it's running. Is there a place it can leak on top??
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Just pulled into campground pulling 5ver transmission started pouring fluid from inspection plate. Only does when running but it's a gusher. Fluid is nice and red and didn't smell burnt. What should I expect when I have towed to shop?
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I was out with the F350, drw, automatic, 7.3, 4 x 4, yesterday about 30 miles from home base. The transmission started pumping fluid out the front like I have never seen before. I am not talking a drip, I am talking a stream, a big one..... almost like pouring coffee from a coffee pot. I noticed it when I was backing into unload and was leaving an oil trail, a quite obvious one.
We took off the tc cover as it was coming off that to find a dry tc and flywheel, but fluid running out off the case. This is the second time this trans left me high and dry in 165k miles. The first time was a stripped tc/ input shaft. We repaired the transmission then but I don't think we replaced much besides being sure no debris went though everything, fixed what was broken. That was about 25,000 miles ago.
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I have a 2000 F250 4x4, it has been sitting in my garage for about 3 weeks. I cranked it up and backed it up about 10'. A few hours later I noticed a lot of transmission fluid on the floor. I remember hearing a hissing sound when I cut it off but didn't think anything about it. The fluid is on passengers side of truck, right side of the engine. Most of fluid is toward the rear but some ran down in front of the axle also. It's up high also, I've got fluid on rear of valve cover. I've cranked it up and let it run but can't get it to leak. Where did all this fluid come from?
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IPR CF2 Byasss High Flow Coolant Filter Ford 6.0
Made for the 6.0, the biggest problem on the 7.3 might be finding real estate for the filter assembly.
One review refers to using it on a 7.3.
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I just flushed my coolant system and installed a red ELC, Riffraff billet thermo housing, Ford thermostat, new hoses and Riffraff coolant filter. When I first started the truck and was waiting for the thermostat to open I notice at idle the flow from the coolant filter into the Degas bottle was a lot.
Fast forward a week and about 75 miles I have zero flow at idle and it will start to dribble at about 1300 RPM's and increase from there. It seems the flow would not be dependent of the thermostat being open since the connection is below it. I am wondering if my Donaldson filter is already full?
I used a flusher that uses air and water, after flushing I used air to blow to tap water out. How fast have you guys seen one fill up? I ordered 2 extra but just do not want to waste the first one
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I just installed a new water pump and thermostat on my truck, and now hardly any heat? I let the truck run for almost an hour without the radiator cap on. And I added coolant back up to the full level. I took it for an almost 100 mile ride and the temp level hardly even moved off of cold? And it is hardley even blowing warm air with the heater on hi.
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While turning very slow and sharp on the farm, I heard a pop under the hood. I then lost power steering and brakes. I saw power steering fluid spurting in the left tire well behind the tire. Look under hood and saw fluid coming from a fitting on the side of the power steering pump. I have attached a photo....one photo with nothing and then other with a screw driver tip on the fitting.
It appears that the the pressure fitting blew out the side when I turned sharp. It has a nut from which it came (compression of some sort?). I can push the nipple of the fitting back into the nut but I guess the pressure is gone.
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I just noticed a small leak (red PS fluid) coming from the rear of my hydroboost in the truck (while working on my shift tube replacement this past weekend). The carpet is not wet, but there is a drip hanging on the rear end of the HB waiting to start leaking itself on the carpet. Also, there appear to be no issues with either braking or steering -- all is smooth, firm, steady, and quiet.
I have nearly 290K miles on the truck, replaced the Master Cylinder probably 8 years ago at roughly 150K miles. I no longer spend nearly as much time on the road as I used to (probably 8K miles per year now compared to a previous eight-year long run at 18-20K miles per year.
Questions.
1) Should I go ahead and replace the HB before it gets worse (I don't know how fast the fade when they start this process)?
2) If I replace the HB, should I go ahead and proactively replace the MC along with it since I'll have the whole system wide open?
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I have rust everywhere but mostly surface rust. For those who use fluid film, should I just buy a few cans and paint the whole under truck with it? Do you wipe off access?
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I am changing the rear Diff fluid in my 1999 F250 Super Duty with limited slip differential. I have read in the manual that 8 ounces of friction modifier is required, ford dealer said it only required 4 ounces. I bought 8.
Also I asked for a inspections plate gasket and ford said use silicone... When I removed inspection plate it had a gasket. So, silicone or gasket or both? Differential capacity is 6.9 pints 75w/140w synthetic.
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Like the title says I dropped about a 2 inch piece of small washer fluid hose in my cylinder while evacuating the oil from it . Will it damage the valves If I ran it? Any way to remove it without removing the head?
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Saturday morning my grandpa drove my F350 into town pulling our 4-horse trailer (With living quarters). I wasn't with him, but I was told the following: he started smelling something hot and noticed the O/D light start flashing. Now, this man is not the most intelligent man on the planet and uses the O/D to "slow down the engine" when he starts and stops - i.e. uses it as trailer breaks. I have asked repeatedly for him to quit, but as best as I can tell, he continues to do so.
After the burning smell, a driver pulled up next to him and pointed down - he looked to see smoke and the truck puking fluid everywhere. He said he thought the truck lost power because he couldn't get it to move. Ended up getting it towed. The tow truck driver checked my fluid level and said I had an extremely small amount of transmission fluid left in the truck...which made sense as the fluid was all on the ground underneath, lol. Fluid was NOT red and looked really gross and there was DEFINITE burnt smell to it.
My question is this - what in the world could have caused the truck to do this (I read that is could be from overheating?), and what should be my next course of action? It is home and in my backyard right now (Classy!). It starts and runs fine, but since there is little to no fluid left, you have to hammer down on it to get it to go anywhere. It does move, however.
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Re packed / cleaned my hubs. Did a 600 mile trip and front driveshaft is locked again. Am trying for first time soaking them. They are in tranni fluid right now. I can't afford warn hubs. Is there any other tricks? Or will I have to soak them every few months?
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I've got a 7.3 tranny that has had ELC Coolant and water mixed in with tranny fluid because of a bad radiator. I drained the fluid from the tranny a week ago and when I pulled off the pan today there is still junk in there. I'm planning on putting in a new filter, gasket and Mercon V but how do I clean the old stuff out of there? Picture.....
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I'm going to be tapping into my water supply for the Turbo and WG cooling. Where do I run the water back into? Or, what have others done?
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OK, so a friend's F150 just went up in flames in his driveway and he told me that the problem was the hot link behind a plastic/ rubber barrier at the main brake cylinder. I had a recall notice on my old truck but since I left the US and took the truck I never paid much attention to it, thinking typical overkill. Now I already heard from another buddy who caught lit brake fluid dripping onto the front tire and got the fire out before it spread and looked up the info today. Looks like our trucks are affected. Best to unplug the harness that goes into the brake master cylinder will prevent this problem from occurring? I never use cruise where I am, the roads are too small and slow.
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Coolant flow seems to be not at its max output seems like it's blocked somewhere. Lots of pressure in bypass line of radiator after clamping of hose and releasing pressure of degas bottle?
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Last year I did some major work on my 02. Painted it, new injectors, 38R, and once it was back together, the transmission went south in a month. Got a Ford reman HD4R100. Shortly after the install, when in reverse, the torque convertor would lock up when you stepped on the throttle. As soon as you let off the throttle, it would disengage. Thinking it was a tranny issue, got another one from Ford. This one has been in the truck for about 9 months. And it seemed fine until about a month ago. It started doing the torque convertor lockup thing in reverse like the last one, but not as often.
Then last weekend it did it every time I put it in reverse. Then yesterday, while pulling away from a traffic light, there was a loud bang, and lost power in the transmission. Once stopped, I found out it has manual 1st and 2nd, but nothing else. No drive, overdrive, or reverse. I personally believe something electrical led to these issues, and ultimately, the transmission failure. I know the truck is not stock, but I do not run it hard very much. When it went bang yesterday, I was not being hard on it. Where to look at what is causing this?
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