Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Won't Start - DP Turner?
Aug 10, 2016
after only using the truck a few months, I couldn't start her. I thought it may be a relay and went through all the under-dash relays but was also curious if this could be a remote starter wiring related problem since I have no clue on these systems. I eventually pulled the starter relay
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and have managed to jump the truck like that ever since then. Suddenly today it is a no go, will not start no matter what I try. I did try pulling and reinstalling the PCM relay as suggested by Chris F350-6 in that earlier thread, but it did nothing. Could it be a problem with my DP Tuner?able to turn the key and start my truck today.
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I looked but can't find it again. I have mini h&s and was wondering when wanting to do live data inspection with engine running can you just unplug tuner and still run the engine or does it not work? If I remember right I've read and seen that someone can still drive and use truck with it unplugged just isn't at full power?
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I have a 2000 f350. Lost power whole driving and won't start back up. I have checked all my fuses and relays several times. Have no power to the fuel pump. Tried running a hot wire straight to the pump and still nothing.checked my emergency cur off switch and there is no power there. Also my WTS light isn't coming on now. Tried checking the heater bowl and no power there.
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Went to start 'er up, key spun forwards, power came on but no start, no click, nada. Turn key back and power stayed on, back forward and no resistance whatsoever power stayed on. Took screwdriver, jumped starter relay and viola away we go. Get home, get cylinder out of hole and the tip is broken off down in the column. BTW, had to disconnect batteries to shut it off. I drilled hole in the tip still in the column, insert screw and no come out. Must need to be turned somehow first I'm thinking.
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New to the forums, not new to fords. 1999 F350 7.3L Diesel. This has been a work truck and has seen multiple devices in and out over the years. I removed the last crap for GPS tracking etc from the last owners. The truck has worked well for a long time since until...
I'm moving slowly to a different state and so the truck got parked for 2 months. went to start it and nothing. the dash comes on and all the lights come on but when you turn the key to start the power drops and nothing.
Testing so far:
replaced the fender Solenoid
tested the starter motor and solenoid -passed
replaced the ignition switch
tested continuity of the hot and ground wires to the fender and starter and everything passed
When I shorted across the fender solenoid the starter works and tries to start the truck (unsuccessfully so far)
So the wire that goes to the fender solenoid is not working and where to trace it to and what needs to be fixed. Is there a relay or fuse besides number 30 that is in the way? where does the magical wire go so i can check its continuity?
I am stuck 800 miles from where i need to be and I am stuck here. I don't have the cash to get a mechanic and my mechanic friends are stumped. I do have a Snapon modus tester, what to do with it.
FYI the batteries are new and fully charged.
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My 99 F350 cranks, but won't start, and the "water in fuel" light on the dash stays on while cranking. I have never paid close attention to it in the past. Is it supposed to be on while cranking?
I drained the water from the yellow lever located on top of the engine, and tried to start it. The light went off for the first few cranks, but again the truck still will not start.
I just came from a 10 hours round trip to NC. I filled the truck up two times from gas stations on the way. Is it possible that the fuel is bad? I drove on the same fuel almost 3/4 of this tank and now at the last 1/4 I am having this issue.
A little update:
I took the top of the fuel bowl off to see what the filter looks like, and it is nasty and completely black. I could not tell if the fuel in the bowl contained any water, but it looks greenish and uniform, no the obvious separation that happens when you mix water and oil.
Could the fuel filter be the problem?
A little history about the truck. It's always hard to start if cold and not plugged in overnight. I know it's the glow plugs relay, so I just keep it plugged in all the time until I get a chance to fix it.
IDM was acting up shutting off half of my engine, but I took it off, cleaned it, plugged it back in and it has been working fine for over 2 months.
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I have a 99 F 250 7.3. It runs fine at idle even for a long time. When I drive around the block a couple of times it will start chugging and lose power and shut off. I have been mixing fryer oil with the diesel. I changed the fuel filter, oil change, crank sensor and fuel pump. I added 15 gallons of diesel and diesel treatment. Pulled fuel filter and bowel is full I'm not sure where to look next.
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Cooler weather has arrived and my 2000 f250 won't start. Wait to start light is coming on, no power passing through the two relays on top of the engine. Are both of these for glowplugs? My 97 only had one. How do I diagnose relays on this truck? If you cross out the two relays truck fires right off so I know the glowplugs themselves are good.
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My 99 250, 7.3 is having some strange issues as of lately. When I start it in the morning, when the engine has fully cooled down, it starts right up, then it throws the "wait to start light" runs real rough and just shuts off. Run the glow plugs a few times, start it up and it will do the same thing for maximum 30 minutes, then all the sudden I start it and it runs fine. I've replaced the fuel pump, cleaned the fuel bowl, new fuel filter, I just don't know where my problem could be. It doesn't make sense. But once I get it running and it warms up, runs fine all day. Go to bed, wake up, has problems again.
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My truck has been sitting for the last six months since my stroke and now the ABS light is on when I start it up. I have not looked into it yet but was wondering if it might just be dirt on the sensor(s).
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Ive got a 99 7.3 with 250,000 miles on it. It has run fine all day but just jumped in and won't start. It cranks over but won't fire. Check engine light doesn't come on. About two weeks ago it cut off twice at idle but haven't had that problem since.
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Truck was towed into my shop for no start. Mechanic diag as hpop pump. He is no longer here. R&R hpop with thourobred reman pump. Truck still a no start. only code is for EBP. Spacer is behind tin nut of ipr. Starter spins motor as it should. No blown fuses. WTS light works. No oil in icp or ipr sensors. GPR voltage is good. Tach moves when cranking. Disconnect ICP still no start and has 65% duty cycle. IPR has 500-1000psi the first 2sec of cranking then it drops and fluctuates 180-480. Add direct power to ipr and get 660psi the first 2sec of cranking then drops
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I have a '99 7.3 that I am working on for a friend. He was moving out west and got to the next state. He stopped to use the washroom, when he came out, the truck would crank but not start. He had it towed back to my house. I have some diagnostic information. Fuel pressure measured at the fuel rail in the head is 60 PSI for the passenger side head. I pulled the plug on the drivers side, it was under pressure and sprayed fuel.. I did not measure it there.
WTS light comes on and then goes off in a normal time frame. Tach shows around 500 RPM while cranking. Engine oil pressure on dash gauge builds up and Low Press Light goes off. Pulled the plug on the High Pressure Oil Res., oil is present at the top. Are there any other checks that I can do until I can get a scanner. My friend has a Snap-On, but he's almost 100 miles away.
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The past few weeks my truck has occasionally shown no signs of life when trying to start it. It goes through the "Wait to Start" routine and then when the key is turned ... nothing. No clicking, no cranking, nothing. All other electronics seem to work just fine.
This might happen only once ... or up to three times before it decides to crank. So far, it has eventually started on subsequent tries. When it does finally crank, it fires right away as usual and everything is as it should be and it runs great. No unusual smoke, noises or anything else.
This may be unrelated to the above issue but I noticed that lately once in a while, the back up sensors remained silent while I'm reversing and close to an object when I know they should have been beeping. (the audible override was not turned on either).
I may be grasping at straws here but would anything going wrong with the gear selector shifter cause both of these problems to surface? Like the lever isn't seating correctly and causing these issues? I also realize the two problems could be (and possibly are) totally unrelated.
I can live with the backup beeper not working but I can't survive with the truck being unreliable and not starting whenever it feels like it. It has newer, strong batteries and when it does crank, it's a "strong, fast" crank like normal.
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So I've noticed that when I fire up my truck for the first 10 seconds or so if I have my foot on the throttle it will putter as if its cold just needing to warm up I let my foot off the throttle white smoke comes out during the day if I were to be putting it in neutral and put my foot on the throttle raising the RPM's up high I would also get this putter as if something is slowing down the rate of fuel at higher RPMs I have already replace my water fuel separator filter and was thinking maybe it could be injectors but also thought about swapping the injection pump just so that everything was brand new ..
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My brothers high mileage 7.3 ran out of gas because of a broken fuel pick up line. I brought him 10gal fuel, primed out of it and now the truck is sputtering and sounds like it's running on 2 cylinders. It's not just air in injectors or something it sounds like crap. It's getting fuel at least to the bowl.
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I have a 1999 f350 with a 7.3l in it. A week ago I stopped at the pump and topped of my tank and when I went to restart it it it would crank and not fire. I had it towed and replaced the cam sensor with an aftermarket one. It ran but it would cut out when I got into the throttle and wouldn't start when hot. I bought another aftermarket one and it did the same thing. I tested the hpop pressure at the back of each head and everything checked out perfect while running. I replaced the Ipr with no luck.
And I also tried unplugging the icp sensor and it didn't make a difference. It starts perfect when cold but when it's hot and you shut if off it will just crank. I replaced the cam sensor once again with a ford one and everything worked perfect and it started no problem for a day then started doing the same thing again. I've taken a close look at all the wiring on the motor and it looks good. Battery's and starter are new. All the cylinder contributions test good as well as the injector buzz test. I'm not noticing any change in oil. Oil was changed 800 miles ago
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Pulled the HPOP reseal an oring that was leaking oil. Feel confident that I made sure the check ball stayed in place. Torqued the bolt to 96 ft lbs. Have fuel in the bowl.
We have cycled the starter about 20 times for 15 to 20 seconds. Batteries are charged.
Here is what the AE scan tool is saying after a few seconds of cranking:
ICP -160
IPR - 0.43
Duty - 63.67
Do I need to get a different reading/test.
I have read about stuck open IPR valve giving the low pressure problem, but the truck was running prior to pulling the HPOP.
Lets say I left out the check ball. Would the scan tool show 0 pressure? (Trying to rule out the check ball)
How about if I didn't get the spring seated in the high pressure oil fitting and instead it is hung on the threads and is compressed inside the HPOP. Could that be the case?
Not for sure it makes a difference, but the truck did fire off once on Ether for second.
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I have a 2003 f250 with the 5.4 in it. When I bought the truck the odometer and fuel gauge weren't working. So I tried disconnecting the battery and when I hooked it back up the odometer started working again and the fuel gauge went from below empty up to full then just dropped back down to below empty and won't move at all. I haven't tried disconnecting the battery again. And I know more than likely I will have to replace sending unit but trying not to if I don't have to.
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I have a 1999 Ford e350 7.3 powerstroke with 140000KMs on it.
The truck cranks really well but it just wont fire off, not even with a shot of starting fluid.
I recently changed all 8 glow plugs, fuel filter, fuel, oil and I keep it plugged in, my last mechanic told me the engine is toast and it cant be fixed.
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So we begin w/ another saga for the 7.3l Excursion......
A few months ago it started running like crap, real crap and blowing white smoke like crazy. Well I knew this from a previous episode and I had a bad or multiple bad injectors. I tried to trouble shoot which one it was and maybe just replace the one or two....but no it was worse than that. So Life was really busy it kinda got shoved aside until now.
I pulled all the injectors and had them rebuilt locally ..nice. They ended up being with mech for a couple of weeks because he went out of town...no problem. Well this entire time my rig was untouched and when I got them back #7 was full of water.....great, bad injector cup. #7 was the only one, the rest were dry. So I drained the radiator and the oil and left it overnight to completely drain and installed the new injector cup in #7. Next day I refilled via both heads because the valve covers were off, 4 gallons of oil and a new oil filter. Cleared the cylinders via the glow plugs and commenced to trying to get her started. Nada......just cranks, killed the batteries, recharged over night and left the box on them and still nada....but the oil was still very milky at this point.
So tonight I pulled all the injectors back out and drained the oil again, still a lot of water. This time I sucked out the HPOP reservoir and got a more milky water/oil out and I'm leaving everything open all night.
In the am I plan to check my overflow water level in the hopes it remains at the same level...if so I will reinstall all 8 injectors and refill the motor w/ 4 gallons of fresh oil and try again.
Oh, while I was attempting get her started I put my buddies Snapon scan tool on it and I got the p1271-p1278 codes w/ the buzz test. (low side to high side open circuit between idm and injector) So I found the pin test with everything connected at the idm pigtail and everything tested good. So I'm back to my not so fresh oil anymore is the culprit to it not starting.
Am I missing something here?
Also....another fun filled fact is that I seem to have a fuel leak somewhere at the rear passenger side. Every time my fuel bowl fills up, if I shut the key off it will drain down. Sometimes I can see fuel dripping quite vigorously onto my starter but I can not see where it is coming from. I have while it was dripping ran my hand along the head and the fuel lines and can not find where it is coming from. Any thoughts as to where in the hell this fuel could be leaking from?
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