tell a difference between "Lo" and "Hi" with your wipers? I'm worried mine might be failing because on Skippy there's not 10c worth of difference between the two. Hi is barely faster than Lo.
Also, wheres the wiper motor located? Is it under the vent cowl with the wiper arms?
My windshield wipers on my 97 f150 go very slow. Not sure if it's bad motors or what but I find it weird for them both to go at the same time. Is there a relay that could be causing this?
View 2 RepliesThis may sound strange but when it's been cold my windshield wipers have been moving more slowly than normal. is this a sign of the motor needing replacement or is this normal?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1997 explorer 5.0 AWD. The problem is that when it is about 44 degrees and below, the windshield wipers, power windows, and interior lights don't and won't work. We will run the heater until it warms up the interior, then everything seems to work fine. I usually leave the wipers on so I know when it is warmed up enough. I have checked all of the fuses and all are fine. the only thing that I can think of is there is a crack in the back of the fuseblock that breaks contact when the metal is cold.
View 2 RepliesMy windshield wipers aren't working. I can hear the relay click and I've checked the fuse. I found this ground wire, what it goes to?
View 1 Replies2004 f250 wipers and fluid not working Done the usual stuff checked the fuses in the cab and the 15amp fuse is good and the 30 amp fuse is good. Is there something under the hood i should look at?
View 3 RepliesI've had my F350 SD for 6months now(21,000 mi) and have seen probably 20 times when I insert the key and turn the switch on the windshield wiper's will make one swipe when NOT turned on. Also have seen several times when starting the truck the radio comes on and it was not on when I turned the truck off. Yesterday when I finished work and was heading home I started the truck and the wipers came up about 1/3 of the way and stopped. I can't seem to duplicate the problem so I have not scheduled it in as of yet.
View 14 RepliesMy 03 GX470 has an issue where the windshield wipers will randomly stop working. It doesn't matter what setting they are on, auto, low, high, they work fine for a few minutes, then just stop mid stroke. They sometimes start back again on their own after a minute or so, but usually, I have to turn the switch to other settings a few times, to get it going again. Inevitably though, the wipers only work for a few minutes more, before stopping again. What could be causing this?
View 5 RepliesA few weeks ago I replaced my CPS on the 99 7.3. Today was the first day I drove my truck in the rain. When I turned my wipers on, I noticed that I lost power and my truck started hiccuping. I read on these forums that an aftermarket CPS is most likely the problem, so I am planning on getting a ford CPS this afternoon. My biggest concern is that before I replaced my CPS, my wipers only had 2 speeds. Also, if I pressed the end of the blinker switch to squirt the cleaner the wipers would not turn off until I turned the truck off. I am not sure why this would be happening and I wanted to ask if there is more than just the CPS involved with this.
View 7 RepliesSo when I bought my rig in 2010 it had a Lund visor on it, granted I may not have chosen to put on one but it is on there......
Windshield is busted and I need to have it replaced......the company that came today said they needed the Lund removed and all my gauges removed in order to do the window.......I get the gauge pod (above mirror) that isn't that big a deal, pull it down and pull the wires off the gauges.....
But I am very hesitant to disturb the Lund visor.
Have to confirm the visor indeed needs to come off? I am worried it will never be as well attached and I'm going to end up with body work being done on the roof to fix it.
2001 F250 7.3 - warn manual hubs.. However, the wife has been driving the truck and I don't know how often she has cycled 4WD.
Basically if you choose 4WD hi it doesn't light up to indicate that it has engaged, if you drive for a couple of minutes slowly then eventually it drops in - not much use if you're already stuck. It will then select 4Lo. Coming out of 4Lo to 4Hi or 2WD is painfully slow - like 5-6 minutes before the dash light goes out for 2WD.
I was thinking maybe the electric motor for the transfer case - unless it is the transfer case dying.
My 2002 7.3 engine makes a slow tap sound...
View 2 Replies It's a 99 f350 7.3 diesel powerstroke. About 180k miles I think.
It cranks fine. I just changed the glow plugs(all were dead) but when you try and start from cold, it takes about 7-10 seconds to fire. The oil res is full, tried disconnecting the EOP sensor, still fires up and takes just as long. There is one near the oil filter, and that seems to not be it either.
Doesn't smoke, no oil leaks that I know of. Not sure what else to check before sending it to another shop to get put on a diagnostics machine. I read about the IPR, but it has no problems when running. Only problem is a very long time to start. Also changed the fuel filter.
7.3 2001 model starts ok at 32-35 F. Feels a bit sluggish / slow response on the road. Reach a hill after 3-4 miles. Engine temp then beginning to go above low level mark. 100 meters up the hill, going around 30 mph there is a sudden surge in the throttle although my pedal is steady. Going back a few minutes later, on flat ground at bottom of hill and with no accelerator pressure, the engine suddenly stalls. Starts fine again after I stop. The same history actually repeated on two separate days recdently on the same hill. CPS is recently replaced. Had some jerking before that, but not the behavior explained above. Current CPS is Delphi light grey. Recent fuel filter change and oil change as well
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 f350 7.3 got a check engine light that turns off when rpms go up and a slow start. My mechanic said that there were no codes being blown, what is going on?
View 11 RepliesMy brother has a '99.5 with about 130k on it. It's extremely slow to startup even the the starter is spinning it over pretty quickly. I pulled my Edge CTS out of my truck to get some #'s off of his. At idle mine has about 700+ ICP, his has about 480. My IPR is about 14%, his is about 10%. The only other obvious things noticeable is that his oil pressure gauge takes 3+ solid seconds before it comes up. Once it's running, it's seems normal and ICP & IPR match mine under full acceleration. The only other thing that is odd, while cranking his volts drop to mid 10's but isn't turning over slow. Where to start?
View 6 RepliesI have 2001 F250 7.3L 261k miles.
Over the last few months, I have noticed that my truck is taking longer & longer to start after sitting for a long time (i.e. every morning, after work, etc.) When the problem first started (3-4 months ago) it would crank for 2 seconds & nothing so I would turn it off, let the "wait to start" light go off again (depending on outside temp 10-20 seconds) & then it would crank & usually fire right over like it was new. That seemed to happen only in the morning when it was 70 degrees or colder outside but no problem after work when it was 80+ degrees.
As the weather has gotten colder, it has gotten progressively worse. A couple of weeks ago, it was in the 40s in the morning & it took a solid 8 or 9 minutes of cranking for a few seconds, then trying again before it started. Once it started it did "chuga chug" a couple of times before it smoothed out. Last week when it was 16 degrees in the morning, it wouldn't start at all. I tried for a solid 15 minutes before I gave up.
I will say that as it has gotten worse over the last couple of months, I have noticed that it's cranking w/o firing but I will hear it fire once or twice per crank before it will fire up & run. Once it starts, it runs like a champ. No studders, stalls, slow acceleration, etc. Pulls like it always has. The weirdest part about it is that once it starts & runs for 30-60 seconds, I can shut it off & it'll fire right up every time. If I get it up to full operating temperature, I can go back & start it right up 2 or 3 hours later w/o a problem.
I did notice my oil cooler is leaking pretty badly (that will be fixed this weekend) & my valley has fluid in it but it's hard to tell if it's diesel, oil or a combination of the two because my truck is setup to run on WMO (waste motor oil). I have dual tanks so the OEM tank is diesel & the auxillary tank is WMO. I have 2 mechanical fuel pressure gauges on my fuel bowl, 1 pre & 1 post fuel filter as well as an aftermarket Walbro fuel pump. The fuel pressure when running on WMO has always bounced a little bit between (65-75 psi) but the fuel pressure on diesel has always held solid at 75 psi until recently when I have noticed that it flutters a very small amount between 73-75 psi.
I have verified that the GP Relay works & was leaning towards a glow plug problem but considering it was having troubles at 70 degrees ambient temperature, I'm hesitant to think that's the true problem. I think that might just be adding to the problem. I live in the south so my truck doesn't have a block heater but I'm going to add one this weekend when I replace the oil cooler gaskets & o-rings.
I'm also going to pick up a new Android tablet today (replace my broken one) so I can use the Torque Pro app to monitor ICP, HPOP & InjPW. Finally, I had a DP Tuner chip on it & to remove that as the possible cause, I removed it & the same symptoms continued.
Got two brand-new Motorcraft batteries installed about a month ago and truck has been cranking great. However, the last couple days in the mornings the truck is starting slow and dragging as if the batteries are going bad. It does crank pretty quick but just has a noticeable starter drag now. Since I have no way of diagnosing the batteries with a tester over the holidays.
What are the odds that brand new batteries are going bad? I was thinking this is a starter issue since the drag is most prominent in the morning but it does it throughout the day while I'm driving driving on each start. But it's not as bad as the first start-up.
I hooked up a scan tool (Forscan and Dash Command) and the only trouble code I received that something to do with the turbo boost pressure fault, it was a code P1247. I don't see how a turbo boost pressure fault, low pressure, could have any starting related issues but you never know. Just a note this code only came up on my FORScan Lite app but it did not come up on the dash command app so I'm not sure if it's a legitimate code.
So I'm back to a battery or starter issue. Is there a way that I can check without much equipment to detect whether not I have a starter or battery problem. I do have a battery charger but no other equipment.
windshield wipers stopped working after driving through a large puddle.
View 1 RepliesBeen barely driving my super duty due to it having a multitude of issues. So working on getting this thing back to some semblance of running decently and it has been smoking whitish blue, oil smoke out the exhaust. Not constantly, intermittently as far as I can tell.
If I drive it at highway speeds for 5-10 minutes then slow down it will smoke for about 10-15 seconds pretty heavily. Yesterday I got off the beltway after running for 15 minutes, it didn't seem to be smoking, but about 1 mile to 1 and half miles later, pulled into a convenience store and it was like I was spraying for mosquitoes for about 20 seconds then cleared up.
Truck seems to be running strong. Turbo doesn't seem to have any play side to side or in and out(according to Baltimore Performance Diesel who I don't necessarily trust at all [ I will explain my reasoning on that some other time, but let's just say, one of the reasons involves a rear main seal diagnosis... I digress] but I assume they are correct on that, I haven't looked myself. So what are some other possible answers, rings I would think would be fairly constant but I could be wrong there.
If I leave my truck sit for a couple of days, the batteries are noticeably weaker. It's fine overnight, but two nights and it's slow to crank. Three and it won't start without charging the batteries. I checked for a drain last night and found that it was drawing 1.2 amps.
That seems like a lot, no?