Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: When Selecting 2 Or Drive It Feels Almost Like Engaging 2 Gears At Once?
Jul 3, 2015
Ok, the swap is all done and I have an engine in the truck that has compression in more than (7) cylinders.
2002, 7.3, 4wd - ~120k miles on trans. Fresh fluid (Mercon V).
Put the gear selector in reverse and it goes right into gear with the normal tug and functions as it should. Put it in low gear and it also appears to work fine. But, when selecting '2' or 'drive' it feels almost like its engaging 2 gears at once?? There is limited forward motion and it feels like the brakes are on. I have not driven further than the driveway yet, but I have a long driveway...
The OD light does not come on. I am not getting any codes from AE, but I really don't know how to use it for transmission stuff (I've been using a different scan tool that I no longer have).
We have not put the bed on the truck, so no tail lights - but 3rd brake light has new bulbs and was working (didn't check this AM though... )
I have a couple other codes, CEL, 'check gauges' and no tach. Gonna start another thread for those issues, I'll put a link here in case its related.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
Driving along today my trans started doing some weird stuff. It lost all gears. Forward and reverse. If I turned the truck off and let it sit a while it would go again for awhile then loose drive again. When I got home I checked fluid level and did KOEO o/d off and back on. I drove it around the block and it seemed ok, so I went on my way. After about 20 min I noticed the OD light flashing. I checked codes and It had P1754-ccs.
View 14 Replies
00' 7.3 is acting a little strange lately. i was towing a 15 foot trailer the other day for about 250 miles that wasn't all that heavy and my foot felt like it was very close to the floor. I had it to the floor and the truck would only go 60. now even without that trailer its better but still i feel as if i have to really put my foot down into it to speed up. if i go all the way to the floor in o/d it'll downshift and start speeding up but very very slowly then i run out of pedal and am at the floor, a lot slower than before. Before i wouldn't get to the floor and id already be moving pretty good. but now i gotta keep it pretty much 3/4 way down and keep it there to get up to speed and stay there. truck has 253k no tuner or programmer just 6637 intake and an exhaust, ww2. leveled on 35's. the tranny isn't slipping or at least doesn't seem to be. She doesn't shift perfect but its not anything crazy bad for stock with 253k on it. maybe something wrong with the actual pedal? or hopefully not but maybe the trans or motor , or maybe a sensor or something?
View 14 Replies
Odd question, but the a/c clutch has always engaged randomly even though the a/c is not on and even now when the heat is on. Is this normal?
View 7 Replies
I have my vacuum system back up and working and using my vacuum pump I determined my lines are all good. They hold a vacuum fine, but my ESOF isn't engaging my hubs. I guess that leaves either the selector on the dash or the seal at the hubs.
If it is the selector, I should just be able to just disconnect the vacuum line at the selector and use my pump to engage my hubs. How much it is supposed to take to activate the hubs?
View 14 Replies
Engine felt like it was running out fuel, injectors were clacking. I got home put on AE and it has a low high open on the code reading. took valve cover off and plug came out. I did the quarter modification.
Anyway took the truck out a few days later truck drove ok when cold then after about an hour it lost power again and started clacking until it died out. I had to stop and let it cool off about 10 times before i made it home. I changed ICP sensor. took it out for ride and about ten minutes later same thing. I have to let oil temp get down to 165 before i can drive it again.
When i first drive it Icp pressure is about 500 at idle and 2650 at full throttle, that is until it starts clacking again and losing power then the engine wont take any throttle..and ICP duty cycle is at 26%... Would bad IPR do this??
View 14 Replies
So apparently even though the engine light is coming on and off it's not recording any error codes.I tried with my reader, one from Auto one, and then a better one at a local shop, none of them would show anything. The issue is it feels jerky when the light comes on(or goes off). Imagine cutting your cruise control off while it's accelerating and then immediately cutting it back on and that's similar to what it feels like. What could be the cause? I guess I might drive my wife to work tomorrow so I can go by the dealership in Atwater Ca (I'm a bit worried, the one in Yuma, AZ tried to rip me off for three grand).
View 5 Replies
I just bought a 99 F350 to replace my 01 F250 5.4 and I'm pretty stoked. There are several problem (some i knew about, some were surprises) 1 of which is the starter. The guy I bought it off said that every 100 starts or so (more like every 4-5) the starter sounds like it free-wheels but you just wait for it to stop, turn the key again (sometimes twice) and it engages and starts (although it takes a few seconds of turning over before it fires up).
I have a buddy with the same truck and he has had to replace his starter many times and I read in an old log book from the original owner that he had replaced the starter every 25,000kms (15,000miles). I am not the kind of guy who likes to fix things to have them break again.
SO my question is, WHY do the starters on these trucks keep breaking? What is the weak link? Is it possible to re-build one with better parts at home?
Is the problem partially because my batteries are only 650CCA and 750CCA and it takes more to turn this beast over? Could it be a bendix issue?
View 6 Replies
I have a 2004 6.0 with the 5L110 transfer and torqueshift transmission. While test driving after installing everything, I didn't get 7 ft down the road and the tires locked up and she came to a dead stop. Now I only have reverse but I can still feel the tranny engaging into drive but will not move.
View 2 Replies
So I just bought a E99 f350 lariat. I wrecked the truck on the test drive and felt like the right this to do was to buy it. Finally have everything fixed and replaced on the truck and have run into other issues now.
While flushing the coolant system I started noticing that the starter was engaging randomly. After doing some research I found out it could be the GEM under the dash. Looked under the dash and I could here a sizzling sound and seen "smoke" /water vapor something coming off the GEM. And there is water coming through from the window/cab lights.
So. All the post I seen where from like 6 - 10 years ago. Where is the best place to buy a GEM? Will having the window replaced take care of the leaking issues on the window? What's the best after market cab lights? Cause I think they are leaking too.
View 6 Replies
My transmission had no slipping was running fine . Oil level was ok , recently added 1/2 quart , cause it has some small leaks. I go to drive away other day and none of the drive gears or reverse would engage. Mechanic thinks transmission locked up . Kind of hard to condemn my old baby considering it was running fine .
Would the TCC solenoid do this or the ECU ? I recently reinstalled the bar going to starter that was disconnected for 5+ years because i was having slow crank issues. This transmission problem occurred 2 days later. I am thinking it might have made the ECU unit go bad , since the starter had not a good ground for so long ?
View 14 Replies
Ok let's start I have a 1999 f350 7.3 4x4 Work Model that I'm have some odd transmission problems. I drove it 20 mins to do a 2hr job no problems finished that got in took off I few seconds down the road it was like the tranny just dropped out no sound just reved no gears at all. So I shut it down tried to start again would not start in park without pulling up on the lever which had experienced here and there for a good while. So got it started went in gear took off same thing went popped out no gears. I started it again this time used reverse same thing as drive so got it where I knew I could leave it but now it would not start in park anymore at all. Next day picked up a neutral saftey switch changed it now it starts in park every time but still starts going looses the gear then have no gears shut it down sometimes had to wait a few then again same issue.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2000 F350 7.3 213,000 miles. Manual tranny, 2wd. It is my daily driver.
No issues until 2 weeks ago I pulled out and began shift gears when the engine died and I completely lose pedal. The engine does not shut off it goes to idle and the lights and power are fine but I quickly lose acceleration. After a couple seconds and a few pumps on the pedal it comes back. The problem is intermittant. Until yesterday it was only in the morning but then happened on the way home from work. Thinking ti was water in the fuel I used an additive to cure the water.
I changed the fuel filter just after I bought it in April of this year. I know there is a Injector Pressure Sensor that could be the culprit. EGR?
View 14 Replies
Put in my new S&B intake today and when I stomp on the gas I am getting a loud shuddering noise from the intake when I change gears. Also sounds like a squealing sound sometimes. Doesn't sound like other trucks that I have heard. What that could be?
View 14 Replies
(2000 F-350, 7.3L, 205k miles) Over this weekend, I noticed while driving mostly in the lower gears, that there was a slight hesitation with the throttle pedal depressed about half way or less. Seem to get worse as the day went by, but no lights or anything came on. Changed the fuel filter and added a fuel injection cleaner to the tank. Checked the oil and it was low, so I filled it to the correct amount.
Drove it around the next day, and it seemed to be good, until it warmed up some, and continued to hesitate. The hesitation seems as if it's not getting constant fuel, and the truck jerks a little. Once you get up to over 2000 rpms, it goes away. Looking up other reviews on similar issues, most have pointed to the throttle pedal sensor and just changed out the pedal assembly. Before I take it that far, I wanted to see what was the corrective action.
View 3 Replies
My tranny is acting odd. I put in drive and seems to slip a lot in 1st, barely even move at some times. If I put it in 1st with the shifter it goes in and grabs then I can shift up to 2nd or drive and there aren't problems. It drives normally when not from dead stop.
Transmission has 50k miles on it since replacement. Fluid level is normal. I don't tow and drive it particularly hard. I will have to go back and look at miles since last fluid change. I should be right around 30k miles since last change.
View 11 Replies
What is the difference in drive/ fan belts with Cold Weather package and W/O cold weather package? As I have been trying to figure this out at the Irish part part it says for a single alt ....
Cold weather package the Outside Circumference (In): 121.900 and
Non cold weather Outside Circumference (In): 122.735 Inch
View 14 Replies
So I went from a 3 inch to a 2 inch leveling kit. After tightening everything up the sway bar was a hair off. I pulled it out of the garage and got it lined up. Fast foreward the next day and went on a 200 mile trip hauling an empty goosneck and noticed it one time. The day following the the truck has went into this horrible sway through the tires back and forth that makes it undrivable. Looking at tie rod ends the one at the pitman arm is shot. I order the whole front steering kit from xrf and I'm going to replace. I know I also have some play in the box but I have for awhile. So what else would there be to look at? I need to get this fixed. I will update after the steering is put back together.
View 9 Replies
Tranny rebuilt, truck in sig, and beefed up 2 1/2 years and 30K miles ago. Recently started going into D after 10 to 20 seconds after putting it in gear, cold or hot. Very frustrating, especially when trying to maneuver a trailer.
Transmission builder has been running his shop for 20+ years, all makes and models, not Ford specific. I choose him because he runs a local business, has a good reputation, and happens to live less then 1/4 mile from me.
I have searched the forums, and read where Mark says this is loose valve body bolts, or forward drum going out. Builder can't grasp where it would be drum seal if it doesn't do it all the time, which it doesn't. He said it sounds more like something electrical, but there are no codes stored on pcm.
Builder also said he would pull tranny to check drum. Does this sound like I'm moving in the right direction? Or can it be something else?
View 6 Replies
I guess it would be classified as very intermittent but in the past year I have had 3 separate times when my truck has after a short drive suddenly had zero boost..
Pull over and turn it off for 30 sec or so and all is fine. Cycle the ignition faster than that and issue persisted. It has only happened in colder temps. In all the reading I have done on FTE I've not come across anything similar.
View 14 Replies
I bought a 99 7.3 been in the trees for a few years pulled it home and now trying to get it running. Did a service new filters and oil fuel too. I can get it to start and will run but runs very rough and if you put it in drive cant pull its own self. I don't have a check eng light on. And found out my scanner is a pos lol. it will hooked up and then try to pull codes and loses it connection. But that's the scanner will not work on my other 7.3 as well.
I am making high pressure oil checked off the rail with gauge and it will build up to 2000 psi when I rev it. but missing like crazy. I swaped the pcm and idm out of my running 7.3 and it didn't change a thing. I have checked the pass though and they are fine. pulled drivers side valve cover off and no oil leaks when running and rockers are fine. new ipr valve as well too. I know I need to get a scanner to talk to this thing better.
View 3 Replies
