Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Vacuum Pump Running Constantly?
May 31, 2015
My vacuum pump I noticed is running constantly and also my vents are stuck on defrost.
I narrowed it down by taking off the lines going from the tank to the 4x4 solenoid and the tank to the HVAC line. If I plug both lines I get pressure to both but it still won't shut the pump off. Why won't the pump shut off? Leaky tank?
If I plug the red line back into the solenoid I cannot get pressure to come out of the HVAC line. (Switch in cab set in 2wd)
I can make the pump shut off by plugging the main inlet to the pump.
I took the tank out and can't find any cracks or leaks. Could something inside the tank be broke?
Also why can't I get pressure when the red line is plugged into the selinoid?
I can't figure it out. Almost seems like the 4x4 solenoid and the tank are both the problem.
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I had the doors open while unloading the car this morning and noticed that the brake booster pump just kept running and running and running, plus I can hear a strange, hollow rattling sound somewhere under the car that coincides with the pump. When I say it runs "constantly," I really mean that it runs for 10 seconds (with the rattle), stops for about 5 seconds (silence), runs and rattles for ten seconds again, stops for another five, and just keeps on going for as long as I care to sit there with the door open.
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I am in the process of replacing the complete front end on my 02 CC 4x4. Im replacing the hubs the lockers all seals and spindle axles. complete brakes with power stop and stainless brake lines ......I am going to switch back to the original automatic lockers. I am curious if has a simplified one line for the vacuum routing from the pump to the hubs?
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I think my pcm has gone bad. My wait to start light won't come on an when I turn my key on I can't hear my fuel pump cut on anymore. My vacuum pump is also making a loud noise.
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My 16 year old F250 4X4 diesel has developed a problem with no backup lights working, and the vacuum pump is not getting power. The fuse (#28) checks out OK, and I'm told to check for a broken wire on or near the backup switch. I don't know where to locate the backup switch. I have the huge Ford Service manuals, but they are written with the perspective that you should already know where the switches are. Where to find the switch?
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I have a 2004 F-350 diesel. My vent selector is always on defrost so I suspected a broken hose but traced all out and all seem to be fine. I disconnected the line coming from the pump to the tank and no vacuum. The pump doesn't seem to be running but it's hard to tell with the engine noise and vibration. What tells the pump to run and how can I bench check it?
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I have a 2008 F350 FX4 with the 6.4l diesel, a couple weeks ago I was reprogramming the ecm and noticed the vacuum pump was running and wouldn't stop, so after a bunch of reading and testing i changed the solenoid vacuum valve. I tested all the vacuum lines and found no leaks.
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I have a 2005 F250 , 4.2 tdi diesel. I just bought the truck recently and still getting to know it.
I noticed recently that when I turn on the key, the vacuum pump starts running and does not go off. It seems to run continuously and will only shut off if I block the white outlet pipe with my finger. Is this normal or is the pump stuffed.
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Had a weird issue come up this weekend. I went to drive my truck for the first time in a couple of weeks and when I got in I noticed a constant clicking from under the dash (whether the truck was on, off or if the indicators / hazard lights were on or off). I investigated and found it was my flasher relay. I have replaced this relay recently (within the past year) to an EP27L to accommodate the LED lighting I installed throughout the truck (hyper flash on the old relay doesn't even describe it properly, it was a constant buzz!) and it has been working perfectly until this point.
I thought it may just be something going on with the relay so I pulled it and replaced with the old EP27 unit I still had. It does the same thing, albeit at a slower rate (every 4-5 seconds). The lights do not blink when it is doing this, but still operate normally when I move my stalk up or down or when I press the hazard / flasher button on top of the steering column.
I am wondering if there is a short somewhere in my multifunction switch that is causing this issue? If so, why would it come up when truck has been sat? I didn't have the time, not the inclination to roll around inside my truck (hotter than hades here in Florida right now) to troubleshoot any further. I pulled the relay altogether until I get some time and cooler weather to look into it further. Otherwise the truck seems to operate as normal, even all the lighting seems to have no ill effects from this?
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So I have had this occasional hiccup that has gotten more frequent. I figured since our weather has been extra cold (lows about 15 F, around 22 F in the morning), that the temperature had been contributing to the issue. My truck would hiccup and burp out some white smoke. At first it didn't throw a check engine or any codes. As of recently I would get a check engine light, but torque pro could not get any codes, they would be cleared when I cycled the key. Anyways, I finally got some codes yesterday because it happened again. The codes where P0603 and P0344.
So I ordered 2 new CPS from Riffraff yesterday (hoping that they will be here today so I can install one). Fast forward to this morning and i get the hiccup again except worse. Now my truck would barely reach 20mph and it constantly bucked. I limped my way to work (only 4 miles) and of course I got a check engine light but there were no codes that I could retrieve with Torque Pro again. I had read on another thread that the guy had an issue with a wire in the harness near the 42pin connector for the IDM. He replaced his CPS taped up the wire and it went away.
I'm at work and now I'm paranoid that I wont be able to make it home. Is there anything temporary I can do for the CPS, like maybe disconnect it and spray it with some contact cleaner, until I can replace it? I'm going to trace the wire harness to make sure there aren't any bare wires. I forgot to mention that the local stealership replaced the CPS for free due to recall less than 3000 miles ago...
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Time to replace the aging vacuum lines to the 4wd and probably anywhere I can find the old rubber stuff.
What is the size of the lines and are they mostly the same?
I'd like to order a roll so I can make ones like the front hubs longer, stuff like that.
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Checked all fuses in fuse box, any other fuses or relays. The pump works when I jump it with a 12volt battery, so I know its good!
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In the past, I've had the common issues of vacuum leaks causing issues as evident from the defrost/ac and then finding busted vacuum lines. Changed out and everything fine for a few years. Now, i dont have 4wd but i dont have the tell tale vacuum leak signs. Also, even if i manually engage the hubs, still no 4wd.
I try to listen for the transfer case to engage when i switch from 2wd to 4wd, I think I hear it engaging, but to be honest the 7.3 makes so much racket Im not positive that Im hearing it, or at least not hearing it the way I "think" that i heard it in the past. I seem to recall a distinctive clunk when engaging, now its barely audible if at all. Now when I switch to 4-Low, there is the distinctive sound, and it does goes into low drive, just that its only 2wd-low, still no front wheel action.
I have never had any issues before other than the vacuum leaks, have never had reason to dig into the transfer case for any reason. The only time it has ever been touched was last summer when i had the BTS installed and all they did was remove and replace.
Do I finally need to either rebuild or replace my hubs? Is it possible not to have 4wd even with hubs manually engaged? Or is there an issue with the t-case? Or is there something else going on? I have access to a lift to attempt "driving" while all wheels off the ground, its just not mine and its a tight fit and a pain to get my truck on it.
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I am thinking on installing a shutoff in the vacuum line that supplies the hubs so I can use 4LO for backing uphill with a trailer without having the hubs engage. Its either that or a switch to disable the PVH solenoid.
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Haven't found any other useful info on this, but local dealer says that's where my truck is leaking oil from, and since it's considered brakes not powertrain the repair won't be covered under warranty ...
Backstory goes : dropped my truck off at local dealer Thursday to repair an oil leak from near front main seal area of the engine discovered while inspecting to initiate a bumper-to-bumper warranty through Ford ESP- their platinum warranty. I figured with all the electronic widgets and non-powertrain stuffs on this beast I wouldn't mind paying for 3yrs/36k miles of trouble-free motoring, y'know?
Apparently it's the O-ring on the brake vacuum pump that's allowing engine oil to leak. I can't even find this thing, just looking for some further explanation. I'm keeping an open mind so far, I don't suspect the dealer's just trying to get one over on me, just trying to be good and educated before I go plunk down for the repair.
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How to diagnose a vacuum leak without a vacuum leak diagnostic tool.
My ESOF won't engage, AC/heat blowers default to defrost - classic symptoms. And while we can leave without AC/heat, we really need the ability to engage 4x4 low, especially as we get higher into the Andes and the roads become rough.
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I have a 2004 E350 6.0 with a bad vacuum pump. I tried looking on Youtube for a video on replacing the pump but no luck. Looking for a video or instructions on replacing the pump? It looks fairly easy but you need to be a snake to gain access to the pump bolts.
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I have a 2013 6.7 and i cant seem to get my 4wd to work in auto position on hubs i think i have it narrowed down to the solonoid for it but cant seem to find location on it.
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My 04 PS was blowin white smoke constantly while running. I just towed a uHaul from Connecticut to Virginia Beach and had some coolant issues on the drive down (I was out of coolant on 95 in PA, added coolant and it made the rest of the drive no problem). I got here to Virginia and it was low on coolant again. I added coolant to it, and now I have some other issues. I had what looked like oil comin out the stacks onto the bed, so I pulled the turbo thinking it was seals. But the turbo was just rebuilt prior to me buying it with a wicked wheel in it. It still had stock EGR and it has 202K on it.
Checked and found EGR valve was wet. Ordered an EGR delete kit, and just finished installing it. Now with everything put back together, the truck doesn't want to start. It cranks but doesn't fire. I pulled the codes from my tuner and I got: P0403, P0405, P0683, and P2623. I know P0403 and P0405 are related to EGR but the others I'm at a loss on. The EGR delete kit I bought included the blank to remove the valve but what do I do with the plug that used to plug into it? Any way forward to get the truck back up and runnin again? This is my daily driver and not lookin to break the bank to get it goin again but I really need her to be reliable.
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2003 F-350 - 7.3. With the key in the on position there is zero voltage to the fuel pump. Fuel pump fuse is good. I traced the red with black tracer wire from the pump up through the firewall and to the safety inertia switch. The switch has continuity so it's OK. Then from the safety switch I traced the green with yellow tracer wire to a fuse block plug connector. Then I checked continuity from that connector out to the #40 fuel pump fuse and it's open.
So I then i checked from the fuel pump fuse to all the back connections on the back of the fuse block and there was no continuity to any of them. So I removed the back cover off the fuse block to expose any issues. I found two board mounted relays. Now, from the fuse I get continuity to one of the relay connections. So did Ford hide the fuel pump relay and make it non replaceable? Also if this is the pump relay then what circuit energizes it? I need to make sure before I replace the fuse block.
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I have a 2003 F250 and dont have power at fuel pump, or fuse #30. I put power directly to fuel pump and it worked and truck fired right up.
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