Time to replace the aging vacuum lines to the 4wd and probably anywhere I can find the old rubber stuff.
What is the size of the lines and are they mostly the same?
I'd like to order a roll so I can make ones like the front hubs longer, stuff like that.
1. What is the "stock" tire size for a 2000 F350 7.3 Super Duty 4x4 SRW?
2. Is there a way to adjust PCM to accommodate different tire sizes?
What happens if or when you get air in your brake lines and the air gets into your ABS pump/module? What are the symptoms? Anything other than a soft pedal? My ABS module keeps thinking one of my tires is sliding when i am driving and pulses my pedal and i am at a loss.
View 14 RepliesI have a 02 f350 4x4 6 SPD one of my transmission lines has went bad is there anywhere that sales them.
View 1 RepliesI've got a late 99 7.3 truck that I just recently did a lot of work on. I installed a new turbo with bellowed up pipes and a new exhaust system and when I went to start it up it started leaking fuel in the back pretty badly. Initially I thought it was the banjo bolt or the passenger fuel line but looking at it more closely I realized that it's not coming from there. It's dripping all over the side of the starter and is collecting at the low point of the metal lines down below. I also saw small droplets coming out of the up pipe where it meets the manifold but it looked like nowhere near enough to produce the kind of leak I'm seeing, also I know fuel shouldn't be coming out of the up pipe to begin with. This is really annoying and I would like to drive my truck again.
View 14 RepliesIn the past, I've had the common issues of vacuum leaks causing issues as evident from the defrost/ac and then finding busted vacuum lines. Changed out and everything fine for a few years. Now, i dont have 4wd but i dont have the tell tale vacuum leak signs. Also, even if i manually engage the hubs, still no 4wd.
I try to listen for the transfer case to engage when i switch from 2wd to 4wd, I think I hear it engaging, but to be honest the 7.3 makes so much racket Im not positive that Im hearing it, or at least not hearing it the way I "think" that i heard it in the past. I seem to recall a distinctive clunk when engaging, now its barely audible if at all. Now when I switch to 4-Low, there is the distinctive sound, and it does goes into low drive, just that its only 2wd-low, still no front wheel action.
I have never had any issues before other than the vacuum leaks, have never had reason to dig into the transfer case for any reason. The only time it has ever been touched was last summer when i had the BTS installed and all they did was remove and replace.
Do I finally need to either rebuild or replace my hubs? Is it possible not to have 4wd even with hubs manually engaged? Or is there an issue with the t-case? Or is there something else going on? I have access to a lift to attempt "driving" while all wheels off the ground, its just not mine and its a tight fit and a pain to get my truck on it.
I am thinking on installing a shutoff in the vacuum line that supplies the hubs so I can use 4LO for backing uphill with a trailer without having the hubs engage. Its either that or a switch to disable the PVH solenoid.
View 12 RepliesMy vacuum pump I noticed is running constantly and also my vents are stuck on defrost.
I narrowed it down by taking off the lines going from the tank to the 4x4 solenoid and the tank to the HVAC line. If I plug both lines I get pressure to both but it still won't shut the pump off. Why won't the pump shut off? Leaky tank?
If I plug the red line back into the solenoid I cannot get pressure to come out of the HVAC line. (Switch in cab set in 2wd)
I can make the pump shut off by plugging the main inlet to the pump.
I took the tank out and can't find any cracks or leaks. Could something inside the tank be broke?
Also why can't I get pressure when the red line is plugged into the selinoid?
I can't figure it out. Almost seems like the 4x4 solenoid and the tank are both the problem.
I am in the process of replacing the complete front end on my 02 CC 4x4. Im replacing the hubs the lockers all seals and spindle axles. complete brakes with power stop and stainless brake lines ......I am going to switch back to the original automatic lockers. I am curious if has a simplified one line for the vacuum routing from the pump to the hubs?
View 7 RepliesHow to diagnose a vacuum leak without a vacuum leak diagnostic tool.
My ESOF won't engage, AC/heat blowers default to defrost - classic symptoms. And while we can leave without AC/heat, we really need the ability to engage 4x4 low, especially as we get higher into the Andes and the roads become rough.
I think my pcm has gone bad. My wait to start light won't come on an when I turn my key on I can't hear my fuel pump cut on anymore. My vacuum pump is also making a loud noise.
View 10 RepliesMy 16 year old F250 4X4 diesel has developed a problem with no backup lights working, and the vacuum pump is not getting power. The fuse (#28) checks out OK, and I'm told to check for a broken wire on or near the backup switch. I don't know where to locate the backup switch. I have the huge Ford Service manuals, but they are written with the perspective that you should already know where the switches are. Where to find the switch?
View 4 Replieshello, so yesterday at the local gas station I was talking to a guy who has a new, nice looking GMC 1 ton 4x4 nondually truck. we started talking about milage and he told me that going up 2 sizes and adjusting it in the onboard computer he was now getting 22mpg.
so I know this isnt an apples to apples kind of thing, and I do know that for example on my F250 it is geared to haul... but has anyone got real data on getting back down to a 3.55 gear adjusting tire size? has it made a difference ? especially if it is just a DD and not a work hauler. yes we all know if you go too far milage gets worse, but I always found for a non-work truck that the 3.2-3.5 rear gear ratio or equivalant eith by changing gears or tire size was a sweet spot for MPG.
right now at 13K I get about 17-17.5 mpg unless I am driving on the interstate and then I get a tad more.
thanks Fert
So here's the background. I recently bought this truck. It's a 97 Ford f150 4x4 4.6l 99w vin code. Anyway Driving it home got a p0401. No problem. I Applied vacuum from other vacuum source to EGR engine stalls. So to me passages are clean in the throttle body. I checked to verify and indeed passages are clean. No while doing so I noticed no vacuum was making its way to the dose valve thing. Strange.... So took the line that runs to the passenger fender to dose off and it was impossible to blow air through.
So I cut out the clogged section found solder in the line. I filled the gap I now created using some 5/32 vacuum line reconnected to test and to my anvil still not vacuum. So I disconnected it again. Went directly to where the yellow/orange dose vacuum line connects to at the passenger fender and to my surprise no vacuum there either. No my question is. Am i suppose to have constant vacuum to the dpse or I'm I just being an idiot. And two if I am suppose to when the vacuum line runs into the passange fender where does it go from there and could I have a major issue in my hands?
I have a 1997 4.2 and when i got it the big vacuum reservoir under the passenger fender had the lines broke off. Where these lines go or have a diagram...
View 1 RepliesI got a question, what is after ac hose vacuum left side on a 10 th gen 4.2l engine bay by the firewall, to the right of the blue thing, right of that on that line their is a 2 end diameter rubber vacuum line? What is that called, I need a replacement.
View 7 RepliesI have manual hubs on my truck. Can I pull those vacuum lines and plug the holes?
View 9 RepliesTruck has been neglected for a while so this upgrade/repair I installed Powerstop brake rotor, caliper, bracket and pads. New Timkin wheel bearing, Moog U-Joints, and new inner/outer axle seals. Also replaced all the brake hoses and the remaining original rusty brake lines. About a month before I replaced the failed Auto/Manual vacuum operated locking hubs with Mile Marker units, which do not need the vacuum line, the drivers side was missing. and was letting water into the wheel bearing. So I decided to plug them and remove the vacuum lines from under the hood as well.
If there is interest I can get pictures of the vacuum lines, and what I changed under the hood. That was pretty self explanatory.
Could not find a google search for the thread size of the vacuum nipple in the knuckle. It is a 3/8"-24 fine thread.
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I don't have any leaks at the moment, but after inspecting my vacuum lines they're starting to look brittle and I want to replace them proactively. Is there a kit to do this or should I just cut a section off and take it in to an auto parts store to match the size, and buy it by the foot?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2013 F250 which has both the Manual and auto locking hub feature. I tried to plow my driveway this morning and after making one pass I put the truck in reverse and could not back up my steep driveway. The truck is showing locked in 4x4 on the dash, the 4x4 control is in high lock but the front wheels will not turn. It has been very cold here lately (-30) and I'm wondering if the vacuum lines for the auto locking hubs have frozen. I have switched the control out of 4x4 and back in several times, and it does lock in again, but as soon as I put the truck into reverse, they unlock again. The hubs are covered with ice and snow right now so I have not yet tried to manually lock them.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 excursion 4X4 on factory 16" wheels. I want to keep my same wheels. Want to install 7" lift. How big of tire can I go? I was looking at the 345/75R16 and 365/75R16 BFG Mud Terrains. Not many manufacturers are making big tires for 16s. I want to go as big as I can without cutting or spacers. Will NOT put any type of Super Swamper. This truck will never see mud.
View 5 Replies