Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Turbo Boost Loss And Engine Starting After 2 Attempts
Aug 4, 2016
I've got a 2002 Excursion which has been giving me a little trouble lately. I've got a DP tuner, 4" exhaust, afe stage 2, and gauges (boost, trans temp, EGT). I've been running these for about a year now without any truck problems until recently
So I noticed over the past couple weeks it has gradually been taking longer for the engine to start. Started off by just having to turn the engine over a few more times. Now it has turned into having to turning over the engine for a few seconds, then turning it to off, then trying again. It always starts on the second attempt to start my truck and sometimes really hard where it blows out a little black smoke.
Not sure if this is a correlation to the problem above or not, but I've also been losing boost pressure, and I'm not sure when this started since I haven't been on the highway for a while. I noticed this because this weekend I drove on the highway and saw that I was blowing some black smoke every time I accelerated which has never been the case.
So I check my boost gauge and see that I'm sitting at like 3-5psi when I used to be at around 10psi+. I also noticed when I accelerated the boost pressure would increase like normal but then quickly drop once I stopped accelerating which is unlike anything I've seen before in my truck. I don't seem to notice a huge difference power or throttle response, but then again 95% of the time I'm driving under 40 mph to get to work. So this problem could have started the same time as the starting problem, but I can't say definitively.
What this problem could be, what to check or test?
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2000 EX with 7.3 diesel 234000 miles. After several attempts to start the battery is to low and I get code 1670. I can jump it with a charger and it starts. Checked the battery cables and pulled the starter and had it checked at Advance. All checked ok. Don't know where to go from here. I think the 1670 code points to the IDM.
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I have done some searching on this, seen a video on YouTube but haven't read anything that is firm on what it is. We pulled our 5er for the first time last weekend and the chatter was pretty pronounced in the Arbuckles here in OK. I was running around 65 mph when I hit the largest hill and as I was climbing my speed naturally dropped, boost was around 17 - 18 psi when the chatter started.
Is it something to be really concerned about? Is there anything to be done to prevent it? I'm pretty much still stock, only deletes have been airbox to 6637, and I deleted the heater by turbo for the boost gauge. Other than that everything on truck is still stock.
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Well I am at a loss now. Rebuilt the turbo with a new wheel and kit from Riffraff. I still have no power, no boost and no codes. The new wheel whistles. I can hear it. It sounds way better than the old one. But still no power. I really don't know what to do now.
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ive noticed my boost has been going down lately. At first I thought it was a boost leak so I replaced all the intercooler boots and both sides of the intercooler pipes. That diddnt change anything at all. I recently got new injectors (200/30%) and a hydra tune for them and it was quick the first few days i was running with that setup, my boost has been dropping and currently at WOT I can't even get to 10lbs of boost and it is noticeable driving, it's slower than it was stock. There was no play in the shaft of my turbo and the turbo in there is only 2 years old. Could the turbo be bad already? Or is there anything else I can check before buying a new one. I have an upgraded hpop and the 6637 intake.
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I have an '03 powerstroke 6.0, 4 inch turbo back exhaust. truck had lost boost and would cut in and out if i got on pedal and now a little bit of oil is collecting at tip, could this be because of bad turbo seals? And could the turbo still be alright? Another thing, I'm losing coolant, and I have noticed when I took the EGR out and cleaned it, the valve itself was the powdery black carbon, the cooler was wet, and I know it's not supposed to be like that. I am not thinking head gaskets yet, cause if it had a blown head gasket, I wouldn't be able to drive it. It is currently sitting, and I'm just trying to fix it. Would I be able to fix the turbo seals myself?
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Check engine light is on says low turbo boost but gauge says it has a lot of boost. Only happened after I put catalytic back on for smog test. Before that no problem.
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I have an 03 6.0 Power stroke. My problem all started the other day when I started to occasionally not get any boost on acceleration and lose of power and a lot of vibration like it's about to cut out but it got worse now today I drove it about 5 miles into town when I got to town I noticed a rough idle I got gas in a gas can not in the truck. I got back in to leave and I had absolutely no power at all the truck stalled out and it was very hard to start finally got it started and it runs really rough almost like it's going to shut off.
So when I started driving I would only make it about a mile or so with out it chocking out and having to let it site for a minute or two and start it back up and go another mile or 2 and have it do the same thing all the way home all the time I have vary little boost if any at all except for when I first pull out now oil pressure is good and engine never over heated some of the codes I have is an EGR code and a contribution balance code for several cylinders I was thinking possibly a maf sensor or a clogged egr not working right.
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I am trying to figure out the problem with my 2002 ford 7.3 Engine.
[URL] ....
It has a lost of engine coolant. The oil is 100% clean with no signs of Coolant. No chocolate milk effect. Also it makes a Odd thumping noise at idle. I think it is coming from the Exhaust Manifold.
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I have a 2004 Excursion with the 6.0. Lately it seems like the motor just doesn't have the boost it should. Funny thing is that the boost reading through the edge cts seems to be right. Under full acceleration it will pull 27 psi boost and 3900+ ICP pressure. No codes are being thrown. It just doesn't "feel" right (seat of the pants) and it also sounds louder but I don't known this for sure.
Where does the CTS get its boost reading from? The truck has new boots on the hot side from riffraff. Anything I can check?
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Having this problem, what to do to correct it? There is no hole in the boot and this just started about a year ago. Does not do it all the time.
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I removed the driver's side glow plugs and injectors and put new o-rings and coppers on the injectors and reinstalled them. Then I tried to suck out the fuel and oil which had glugged into the primarily #8 cylinder and got no oil out.
Then I used a bump switch to push the oil out the glow plug holes and got no oil out of them. Then I did a compression test on the driver's side cylinders and installed new Motorcraft glow plugs.
I have not spun the engine since and it has been about three weeks since I did the compression test.
Tomorrow I am completing my hutch mod and reinstalling the fuel tank.
Did spinning the engine without the glow plugs in, force the oil and fuel out the exhaust valves?
Should I do something else to prevent hydrolocking before starting the engine?
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Just wondering, what the max boost rating on a stock turbo, stock engine in a 2011 is. I know the gauge goes up to 40 PSI, but I don't think I've ever seen my go past 20.
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I have a 2013 F350. Since it was new in August the turbo has made a chattering sound that sounds to me like the waste gate (if it had one) is opening and closing rapidly. Almost like its building boost and dumping it over and over again. Usually happens when it is in 6th gear around 1700 rpm under light load. It also does it from time to time while plowing snow. You can power through it or let off and it will go away. My local dealer where it was bought new put a new turbo on it and the problem still persists. The truck just turned over 8k miles and has been in several times in attempt to resolve the issue. They say that there are no codes on the truck nor does Ford have anything on their service web. My dealer claims that no one has ever had the issue.
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I've been having issue with my truck lacking boost over the past month or so. The psi levels are normal in the morning when I start it up cold, the problem almost always occurs at start-up when the truck is somewhat warm and has been sitting for an hour or more after use. I've had boost levels at idle from -0.14psi to -0.56psi and as low as -1.2psi when driving as the problem is occurring, but it eventually kicks on and goes to normal levels after several minutes of driving. After originally taking the truck to a local diesel mechanic I was told it had EGR codes and they recommended installing an SCT tuner and cleaning the EGR valve to solve the problem. I had them install an SCT 5015 tuner and clean the valve but I've still been having the problems with boost.
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I'm relatively new to the 6.7 engine , I have a 2014 F-350 SRW with aprox 51,000 miles on it. Normal driving I see about 8 to 10 psi of boost even under moderate acceleration although at times it will go to about 18 psi at WOT and it does this with heavy loads. At moderate acceleration the boost will jump to 10 psi quickly but immediately stop there and sometimes as the RPM"s increase boost pressure decreases. Only issues I have had with the truck was a clogged EGR cooler.
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This is a common problem. Mine goes to dealer in the morning for it. I haven't seen any recent posts within the last year on this. Did ford ever find a fix for my problem? When going up hill at low rpms I lose boost and hear the stutter out the intake..
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The ford dealer in Las Vegas replaced my turbo with a remanufactured one. Coming off the line (like quickly pulling into traffic) it goes flat on power until I get a few RPM's. Even with the old turbo it never did that and I drove it for the last 30k miles with it throwing the low turbo boost code. They put a little over 100 miles on it for road testing (I did have other things that they worked on. {4x4 2006 F250, 6.0 engine, 110k miles and I bought it new}....
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I have a 2000 Excursion with the 7.3L. We bought it in February of last year with 81,000 miles on it, and it has 111,000 miles on it now.
First problem:
It threw a code today: P0683 indicating a communication issue between the Glow Plug Control Module and PCM Communication Circuit. Other than the code, the truck isn't doing anything out of the ordinary today. Drove it about 40 miles, up to 80 MPH, problem three below did show it's head once, but other than that it ran great.
Second problem:
Ever since we've owned the vehicle it has done a strange surging/near-stalling thing (for lack of a better word) when it's started up. It only does it occasionally, and the problem seems to appear, and then go away for several weeks or months only to reappear. Here's how it goes:
- Start truck
- After starting the truck immediately begins to surge (rev?) and then nearly stall.
- It will do this over and over, about one surge/near-stall cycle per second, until I tap the accelerator, at which point it stops immediately. So far it has never stopped on it's own, but has always stopped with a tap of the accelerator.
Up until recently I chalked this up to "huh, that's weird" since the truck has otherwise run fine.
Third Problem:
Every once in a while the truck will hiccup while it's up to speed. It only seems to do it at highway speeds, typically between 55-70, and the hiccup typically only occurs once.
The first time I distinctly remember it happening was right after I had replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor (approximately 5-6 weeks ago).
While digging around online I found one other guy say his truck started doing the same thing after replacing the CMP in his F250 with the same little plastic gray one I used. So that problem might be caused by that part.
My Thoughts:
It seems like the run-away favorite for fixing problem one is to replace the GPCM. I've dug through a couple hours of forums this afternoon/evening, and it looks to me like the GPCM is the culprit the vast majority of the time when code P0683 comes up.
I'm thinking problem 2 might be an ICP issue. I can't find any previous forums anywhere that describe the exact issue I'm having - or really anything very close. Maybe it's out there, but I couldn't find it. So I'm really grasping at straws.
Problem 3 could either be related to the ICP (if problem 2 is an ICP problem) or it could be due to the new CMP I installed (the cheap gray plastic one from Autozone). It's possible the hiccup has been around longer than I think. Half the time when it happens (or does it?) I can't decide if it was a hiccup or a bump on the road I didn't see. I am sure it's happening at times, but there are other times I'm not sure if it was a hiccup or a bump I just didn't see. So I think it's possible it's been going on longer than I realize, and I noticed it that first time because I had JUST been under the hood and pretty finely attuned to how the truck was running as a result.
I'm about to hitch my 35' camper to this truck and haul it a few hours and I'm not feeling real confident right now. Problem 1 hit today, problem 2 is more prevalent than every right now, and problem 3 has been hiccupping for 5 or 6 weeks. I'd like to get at least problems 1 and 3 sorted out before hauling 8,000 lbs if possible.
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Truck = 2011 F250 150,000 miles, no modifications, stock.
Truck lost power yesterday, no boost, and no codes. When driving on Friday, I started moving from a red light. The truck seemed very sluggish. Then I noticed it downshift going up a small hill that it never downshifts before. I looked, and noticed the turbo gauge at 0, no boost. I pulled over, turned it off, then restarted it, but still no boost, and the truck is very under-powered. I looked over the area, and do not notice any leaks, also no leaks underneath. I hooked up my OBD reader, and no codes., the boost gauge is on zero, and the truck has lost significant power. I no longer hear the turbo spooling.
I have spent the past several hours searching sites and forums (Started with FTE ), and it seems that most believe a restart of the truck has solved it for them. However, this is not the case for me, a restart, even after letting it sit overnight did not resolve the issue.
I did see one reference that replacing a NOX sensor solved their problem. This brings up some interesting truck history. Back in June 2017, my truck threw the following codes, P207F and P20EE.
P207F - Reductant Quality Performance
P20EE - SCR NOx Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 1)
The message said I have 200 miles until reduced power. Since it was a Friday, not much I could do at the time so I let it sit overnight, and then the next morning the message was gone. I plugged in the OBD reader and cleared the only remaining code (P20EE), and its been a very happy truck until yesterday.
So my question, can a bad NOX sensor cause the issue of loss of turbo boost, with no codes? Is there another possible cause?
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2005 F250 SD, Crew Cab, Diesel 6.0L...
Hauling my jeep (close to 16,000 pounds all in F250+trailer+jeep) on a highway going a little over 70mph up a hill when I seemed to have lost some power and the check engine light came on. The turbo PSI was well over 20PSI (according to the gauge in the dash). I have a Scan Boss but I have not been monitoring turbo boost PSI.
I was only 10 miles from the final destination so I continued without stopping. It seemed that the turbo was limited for the rest of the trip. Later in the evening, no more check engine light but I haven't really driven the truck since then.
What do you think the problem was? What should the course of action be?
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