Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Turbo Whistle Under Hard Pedal Before Shifting
Jan 22, 2016
I have a 01 7.3 F-350, 120000. I rarely get down hard on the go pedal but a while back I did and heard at pressure whistle just before it would shift. I thought a bad turbo hose so I replaced them all. 'While working on the hose mounts I cleaned up the castings for a better seal'. The hose replacement seemed to get the running but the whistle is still there. I am thinking a leak on the manifolds for the Y-Pipe connection OR does the turbo have a release valve that can make a whistle sound?
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I put a ts6 on my 2001 7.3. I love it shift points are better and truck has a lot more power. But I've noticed when I shift truck shifts into 3 (especially going uphill) I get a really weird turbo sound where it acts like its gasping for air (I have 6637 air filter) and then it shifts kinda rough into third. If I put chip on stock setting it doesn't do either of the things I described. Do I have loose turbo boots somewhere or possible bad turbo bearings?
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Are we supposed to put anti sieze on the turbo to pedestal bolts. They were really hard to break loose when I pulled it Cheater bar tight. 18 ft. lbs sound right ?
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This is is a truck I hardly know anything about. My wife bought it while I was deployed for herself and when it comes to vehicles she's an idiot. No, really she told me she bought it because at horse shows everyone else has one.
I noticed an oil leak and had a reputable shop look at it. They told me it was coming from some seals on the turbo. Long story short there is a brand new turbo on there, stock replacement. Now it seems very under powered and shifts hard. Pressing down anything more than 25% throttle will cause hard shifting or no shifting at all. It'll stay in second until I ease off the throttle.
I tried searching a few terms but I'm not sure what to look for. I don't know if someone has messed with the tuning. Broken clamp on the turbo. Replaced and everything is back to normal...
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So I have a 2000 F-250 7.3 and my over drive won't work. I also had hard shifting from 3rd to 4th and 3 gear wouldn't try to shift until about 2500 RPMs which is high. I replaced solenoid pack and no change. I have rebuilt the tranny and found that OD snap ring had came off I put upgraded spiral ring on. When I went on a test drive I found out nothing had changed except shifted smoother. So I changed valve and accumulated body still no change. Truck is throwing 4 codes:
P0733 Gear 3 incorrect ratio
P0750 Shift Soleniod a fault
P0783 3-4 shift error
P0541 intake air heater a circuit low
Could it be PCM??
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I have run into a problem. My early '99 7.3 PSD decided to throw a very hard shift at me the other day, lit up the SES light and I had to limp it home going 5mph.
I looked on here and found most problems that caused power loss/engine die and replaced the ICP, IPR, EBP and tube, and the CPS. I also did an oil change after all of that to make sure everything was clean when I went to start it up.
BUT, when I tried starting it, nothing happened. It cranks, but does not start. What is the problem? I watched hours of videos and read hundreds of pages of instructions on how to replace everything, and now the truck won't start.
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3 213,000 miles. Manual tranny, 2wd. It is my daily driver.
No issues until 2 weeks ago I pulled out and began shift gears when the engine died and I completely lose pedal. The engine does not shut off it goes to idle and the lights and power are fine but I quickly lose acceleration. After a couple seconds and a few pumps on the pedal it comes back. The problem is intermittant. Until yesterday it was only in the morning but then happened on the way home from work. Thinking ti was water in the fuel I used an additive to cure the water.
I changed the fuel filter just after I bought it in April of this year. I know there is a Injector Pressure Sensor that could be the culprit. EGR?
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I have a 2001 3/4 pickup. Sometimes the over drive light flashes. When it flashes it shifts really hard and sometimes it won't shift into 4th until I mash the overdrive button. Sometimes the light doesn't flash at all and it doesn't have any trouble shifting at all. Is it a solenoid? Or wiring issues?
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2000 powerstroke 4r100 transmission. It has 155k just had it rebuilt and the shop is having a night as am I. It was shifting hard and the o/d off light would start flashing after you drove it a while. Its still doing the same thing and the shop checked the whole wiring harness and replaced the accumulator twice believing they got a bad re-manufactured one. The only code I can pull is a 605 pcm read only memory error. Could the cause be a bad pcm? The shop doesn't seem to have a clue at this point and I'm out 2500. IV taken it back twice now and Iv driven it a total of 35 miles since the rebuild...
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For a while now, I have been hearing a very high pitch whistle noise from the turbo/exhaust area. Everybody told me it was an exhaust leak, but I never could pin point the leak. While I was under the truck last weekend I found the flex joint on the passenger side up pipe was broken a leaking.
I ordered a Dorman replacement pipe that comes with a new gasket and hardware.
I will be the first to admit, I am not a fan of Dorman parts... BUT, this pipe is really nice. It looks identical to the pipe being sold on Dieselsite.com, it doesn't have the scoop inside to direct exhaust gas to the EGR cooler and it comes with all the mounting hardware.
[URL] ....
Once I got the turbo down pipe out of the way and soaked the bolts with penetrating oil, I had the broken up pipe off in 30 minutes.
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First off I have a 2001 7.3 with 294000 miles. While pulling my camper after it gets warm it puts out a very loud whistle it seems to happen when the fan clutch kicks in it does not sound like a belt squeal it almost sounds like it's coming from the turbo area. The engine seems to Surge while this is going on but the RPM gauge doesn't dictate that it almost sounds like it's the fan clutch surging. I took a short video of it while it was doing it ...
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Are they known to cause any noise? VGT Solenoid.
I have recently developed a slight whistle/squeal when boosting and when letting off on the pedal. I initially thought I had a CAC boot starting to split out, but since it's making the noise when I let off as well I doubt that the problem.
It isn't constant, and only does it for a second or two when it happens. It's not extremely loud, just loud enough to make you wonder what the heck it is...
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Well I am at a loss now. Rebuilt the turbo with a new wheel and kit from Riffraff. I still have no power, no boost and no codes. The new wheel whistles. I can hear it. It sounds way better than the old one. But still no power. I really don't know what to do now.
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As I was getting ready to leave town with the tractor loaded up, I was accelerating with the turbo spooling up when I heard a bit of a pop and lost power (engine still running and all, just very low power like you get when the turbo fails). I wasn't far from the shop so I came back and started getting a lot of white smoke out of the exhaust, it doesn't smell like diesel, probably more like oil. Definitely smoke, not coolant. I pulled it around back and shut it down to go grab AE and scan it and it shows a P0475, starting it back up has light smoke at idle and it idles fine but as soon as you give it any throttle it starts smoking pretty badly.
Researching it looks like the most likely cause for this is the EBPV itself but before tearing it down that far. This is the only code it's showing.
Truck has 272k on it, turbo was rebuilt a couple of years ago but we didn't do anything with the pedestal at that time. I guess in retrospect, I probably should have done the EBPV delete and the resistor fix then but I didn't think about it at the time.
On another note, my AE is not showing any of the system test for some reason, the drop down is blank. I have version 7.0.1, so it's an old version but I'm working on an old truck, so... What that might be? I've got the truck pulled into the shop now to let it cool down. I'll probably let it sit overnight and take the turbo and EBPV out tomorrow unless someone has a better suggestion...
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So my understanding is that if your turbo is leaking oil, you either need to rebuild it or get a new turbo cause the one you have is shot.
I have some oil leaking, but it's not a ton. One one of my buddies was telling me that it's possible that the amount that is leaking is normal due to the PCV (Pressure Control Valve) system, or something like that. Here are a few shots of the turbo, as well as the boots that are leading up to the turbo.
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While my turbo is out I decided to delete the EBPV. I removed the butterfly and rod, & pounded in some 3/4 inch freeze plugs. Are there any mods that need to be done to the pedestal, or can I just leave it the EBPV plunger unhooked? It's not leaking, but will it leak if left unhooked? Or do I have to gut it and tig weld the oil gallery's
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Dumb question but how do I remove the air filter intake from the turbo Its a little oily there from a fuel or oil leak but I dont see a clamp holding it on the turbo?
Also what is the e clip? Is it the little thing holding the wastegate rod on the exhaust turbine? Can I just pull the rod up off the clip?
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I've been mulling over the idea of doing a muffler job on my 2002 f350 7.3 cc short bed. I do tow on and off for work and dual material for work. I am thinking of upgrading the exhaust because I noticed a couple small leaks in the muffler and I'd like to lower the egt's for the truck so it breath a bit smoother. I'm not a fan of the really high pitched sounds I've heard on some I want it deep and heavy sounding. The turbo is fine for now but eventually I'll need to know what to upgrade to once it starts to wear out. I don't plan on doing dumb chips or tunes because it's not a toy truck but a work and daily driver.
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I'm getting ready to change the glow plugs in my dad's e99, 196k on the clock. When I pulled the air intake tubes I found some oil in the turbo:
The inlet tube also had a bunch of gunk in it too:
Does this look like it is caused by the PCVor is it a bigger issue?
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I have an 02 crew cab SB 7.3L. The best way to I know to describe it is a sorta like a metal ringing noise. It just started this afternoon while pulling a 9k camper. It only does it under load. Boost stays the same and it happens in all ranges from 5psi to 15psi. It is intermittent. It sounds like it it coming from the turbo. I pulled off the boot and could not feel any play on the intake wheel.
After unhooking trailer and taking for a test drive I can not get it to do it again? The turbo was rebuilt about 4 years ago with a wicked wheel but has only seen about 18k miles since the rebuild. A quick look at the boots appear good but didn't get to take them off before going to work. I will try to post video.
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I have done some searching on this, seen a video on YouTube but haven't read anything that is firm on what it is. We pulled our 5er for the first time last weekend and the chatter was pretty pronounced in the Arbuckles here in OK. I was running around 65 mph when I hit the largest hill and as I was climbing my speed naturally dropped, boost was around 17 - 18 psi when the chatter started.
Is it something to be really concerned about? Is there anything to be done to prevent it? I'm pretty much still stock, only deletes have been airbox to 6637, and I deleted the heater by turbo for the boost gauge. Other than that everything on truck is still stock.
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