Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Truck Misses And Randomly Dies Only When It Rains
Mar 7, 2017
I am at a loss on what this could be. For the past 8 - 9 months my truck will randomly miss and if I am going slow enough it will cause the engine to quit but only when it is raining. I sometimes get a service light when it happens but as soon as i turn the key off and back on it goes away. My truck runs perfect otherwise and even when it rains except when it randomly does what I just explained.
This started when I replaced my passenger side valve cover gasket and I also took out my "brain box" (don't remember what it's called) and put it back in (didn't replace it). I did have the up-pipe replaced as well around the same time and put in EGT, boost and trans temp gauges. That's about the only things engine compartment wise that's been done.
I did just take it to a shop to put on a scanner and after his testing it did spit out 1 code. It was the cam position sensor. Can this sensor cause what I have explained? Like I said, this only happens when it rains. Doesn't matter if it's poring or barely sprinkling.
View 7 Replies
Advertisement
Ok, so my 2002 f250 died on me last Tuesday out of the blue, pulled it home and found fuse 23 I think ECU power was blown. I removed my Hydra, and put a new fuse in it and all seemed well, then Friday evening on my way to dinner was driving along and truck shuts off like someone turned the key off. I replace the Crank sensor, even though I had put a new one in after the first time it died, which was last Tuesday, still would not start.
Pulled it home, went out Saturday morning to look at it and hit the key and it fired right off. At this point I don't really know where to look, I wiggled every wire I could find while it was running Saturday and no change, but it does seem to have a miss in it while it is idling...... I am not sure where to start looking....
View 7 Replies
I know there are a few threads floating around regarding truck dieing, but mine is slightly different than the others, maybe its the same culprit, maybe not, but i thought i would start a new thread just in case.
First, I commute about 50 miles to work everyday, truck gets plenty of interstate highway run time, smooth as silk. About a month and half ago when i almost got to work I slowed to stop at a red light. As I came to a stop the truck "stumbled". Acted like it wanted to die but caught itself and kept going. I said whooaaaa girl, what this? Ive had this truck for almost 10 yrs now and never anything like this. About a week or so later, same commute, same red light, cept this time it dies. Starts right back up no problem. Just acted like someone turned the key off.
Then a week or so after that, while driving home this time, as I pulled up at the house to check the mail at the mailbox, when i came to a stop it died. Cranked right back up. Before I could put in drive, it died again. Cranked right back up and i drove on into the driveway. Then a few days later, while checking the mail again, it died again. Cranked up immediately and parked.
Today, while driving home, after i had gotten back to town, but before i got home i made a stop at bank drive thru, when i came to a stop, it died. While cranking it wanted to start and kind of stumbled on itself and died. Then it cranked right up and i came on home no problem.
So far it only occurs after approx 45min to 1 hr of operating time so the engine and everything else are at temp and far from cold. After reading thru some of the other threads of similar but different conditions (cold start dieing, dieing while under power, etc) Im getting flooded with ideas of what could cause it, but not settled on any.
1.Could be failing ICP? (original, has never been changed, 317k+).
2.Could be plugged fuel filters? (been a while since changing, approx 30k+)
3.Could related to one of my own earlier threads regarding possible failing alternator (when rpms drop can volts drop enough to kill engine?)
4.Could be loose ignition switch? (about 2 yrs ago i had to swap the blinker switch, to get to it had to remove the ignition. Upon re-installation the switch never did get tight as before and was loose. Been loose ever since. To the point that with key out of ignition and door ajar i will get the door chime as if the key was in ignition. I can bump the ignition, and chime goes away. Been this way for two years and no apparent problems. Until now maybe?)
I was thinking ICP after a few of the other threads, but after tonight Im leaning towards the ignition switch. I guess i can try to wiggle the switch after cranking tomorrow and see what that does for a trouble shooting effort. Is there a way to trouble shoot the ICP to see if its failing or not? Isn't that a fairly costly sensor? Would hate to buy one and not be the cause, but after 317k i may need to buy before too long anyway.
View 5 Replies
I have a 99 7.3, I took off driving the other day and after about 10 minutes the truck just dies like I shut the key off but everything was still on. I tried to restart it and it would fire for just a sec then die. I set for about 15 minutes and tried again it fired up and ran about 5 mins then the same thing. I had a buddy hook it up to his scanner and it has a p0605 and another icp code.. We changed the icp then erased the codes.. Ran some rest through the scan took with the truck running and no codes so we took it for a drive made it about 20 minutes away and same thing but this time has the p0605 code again. Could the pcm be bad? I also noticed the electric pump is always on all the time it will cycle at least 30 seconds every time the key is turned??
View 14 Replies
When driving my truck it coughs randomly not towing or anything going about 70 mph drops rps slightly and goes right back. It has 212000 miles new turbo and filters...
View 1 Replies
I've been working on my truck for months now on and off. I thought i finally had it back, but i have (again) problems with running. it basically only ran for a full day (hauling trip) after getting it back up and running. next day, it died on me on the road.
The new deal right now is that I can make the truck start and it will run, but it has little "hiccups" or misfires that will happen every now and then. Once it gets warm enough, the idling sounds chopped (best way i can explain it). After "chopping" it will then run fine (until the next chop). then it seems that once the truck gets warm it just stalls out. When that happens (shutting off) i can't get it to start right away. i have to wait awhile before it'll start and that lasts only so long.
The truck puffs a tiny bit of white smoke. not constant but more like a "puh - puh - puh" ....I've changed out quite a bit of used up parts now...
Turbo
Injectors & wiring harness
valve seals
IDM
ICP
IPR
CPS
MAP
fuel pump
vacuum pump
glow plug relay
starter relay
All the sensors are OEM. There's fuel in the fuel bowl, and the filter is clean. Plenty of oil in HPOP & oil level in crankcase is good. Have plenty of fuel.
Air filter is clean and fine. No codes. No lights.
2001 f350 7.3 320k on it.
View 14 Replies
I have changed pickup filter in tank and cleaned 2 tube filters in tank i thought that would fix it.
View 3 Replies
As would be expected things deteriorate on a 16-year-old truck. My alarm has, on a few occasions, decided to annoy anyone around by activating for no apparent reason. This has happened in various conditions (in the parking lot, in the driveway, right after I've driven it, or sitting half the night). I chalked it up to aging circuitry.
Now I've picked up something new. Over the last few weeks my truck may or may not arm. It seems to be a flip of the coin. I'll drive to the store and I push the button on my remote and the truck goes "beep"..."beep". 10 minutes later I drive home, park the truck, push the remote, and the truck goes "beep"...and that's it. My alarm light is blinking two quick flashes when this happens.
Since this has started my truck has begun randomly having a delayed start. I'll disarm the truck, turn the key, and nothing happens for about 1 second or so (seems longer) then the truck starts normally.
Both of these issues started pretty close to the same time. I would normally go straight for a starter issue but I don't know if these might be related. I'm the second owner so have absolutely no idea about the Ford anti-theft system, how it's connected, or what the blinking lights mean.
I'm considering disconnecting the anti-theft system to see if that makes a difference but, as stated, how it's connected, what I might disable, or how it works. Was there any documentation published on it?
View 7 Replies
Like the title says my truck has been stalling while driving. Accelerating or cruising it dies for a second, two at the most, and then just keeps chugging along again.
I thought i'd fixed the problem last year when I did injector O-rings and 50 cented my UVCH. It hadn't done it since, until two days ago. Started out with a two good solid stalls while gently accelerating up hill. I had thought maybe my fuel pickup foot had finely given up the ghost because I was below a quarter tank. But I filled her up full, and then she did it again about 50 miles of driving later.
I didn't catch the first four stalls on my torque app, because I'd just recently decided to stop logging every trip, with the thinking that it had been half a year problem free, why keep logging waiting for something that isn't going to happen. I did catch the 5th stall on the torque log. But I'm having trouble trying to figure out where it happened in a 30 min log.
First question where would yall start in tracking this thing down? Next what data actually should be logged? I think I've got some extra stuff in my logs that isn't necessary, and is maybe bogging down the system. I get one data point per second resolution on my logs. Are there ways to improve the resolution, will getting rid of some PIDs work?
Lastly I need to attack this thing smartly, without throwing time and money at unneeded parts. I had surgery and I've been out of work for 3 months and I'm looking at another 6 before I'm making money again, and there is no unemployment for the self employed. Also I only get 3-4 light weight upright hours a day to work, exceed that and I'm back on the couch battling swelling for a week.
Also is there anything I can do while driving to "flag" the stalls so I can find them more easily in the logs?
View 14 Replies
Truck starts great, and runs and idles fine until it warms up. This could be 15-20 minutes of driving or idling. Then it just dies. Like dead dies, lose power steering, everything (ac and lights still work, but no engine). It had died while idling, it has dies while cruising at 45mph. Then it will crank but no start. After about a 45min to an hour it will start like there was not issue, and pretty much drive the rest of the day (even after sitting) with no problem.
I installed the Adrenaline a few months ago, but the truck ran great for quite a while before this problem occurred. I did have it shipped with a rebuilt IPR. Tonight, I rebuilt the IPR with Guzzle's kit, and stripped it all the way down. Truck died again.
I have not had my AE hooked up when it died (stupid me today). But afterward I have been getting a few codes: P1283 (IPR Control Circuit) and P1212 (ICP lower than desired Engine crank or run).
When trying to start ICP duty cycle is about 64% and pressure is 185 to 190. If I unplug the ICP sensor pressure jumps to 2000ish, truck turns over faster and ICP Duty cycle goes to about 35%.
View 14 Replies
Early 99' model I picked up. Blew the oil cooler and had lot of pressure in the Degas bottle, so did head job and oil cooler and now I'm Still getting a P0264. Unplug #8 injector truck almost dies, plug it up and she smooths out...
View 7 Replies
Just tried putting a ts6 on my pcm. First time I hooked it back up I just got cranking with no start. So I pulled the pcm terminals really well plugged it back in and got nothing. I do not remember because I was kind of in a hurry if I unplugged the batter cables and back on the second time. I plugged it back in after cleaning terminals and went to start and got nothing. A loud click on passenger wheel well and then all electric in truck completely dies. I hope I didn't fry my pcm. Maybe just blew a fuse or starter relay?
View 6 Replies
I have a 1999 Ford F450 Tow truck with a 7.3 turbo. It loses power and misses when I give it gas but when driving normal speed no problems.
I had a ford technician look at problem with a computer and he said number 8 injector . Today number 8 was changed.
Test drove it same problem. I also changed th fuel filter. And I emptied the tank to make sure No water
View 4 Replies
I have a 2003 F250 4X4 crew cab 7.3. It was running great at 244,000 miles. The only problem was the HPOP was leaking, I had done the two upper O rings several thousand miles ago. Any ways after changing the HPOP while driving down the road it would miss at times or hiccup (funny it wasn't doing this before) Also it died a couple times, once at a stop light, had to get it towed home another time in stop and go traffic, this time it started with-in 10 min after trying several times. So I decided to change the IPR, still did the same thing. So I decided to change the CMP with negative results. I checked the ICP sensor it looked good no oil leaking or no saturation. So would it be safe to say I may have gotten a bad HPOP. Remember, I had no problems until I replaced the HPOP
View 14 Replies
2001 7.3L 4x4 328,000 miles.... I have the crew cab? (rear doors open opposite to the front) anyhow whenever it rains the carpet under the rear seat is wet. Just wondered if this is a known issue, with a fix or just something random I'm going to need to chase down....
View 10 Replies
'03 6.0 Powerstroke. Rough idle AFTER it warms up. Runs fine cold. It seems to studder and miss at mid range acceleration. Egr deleted and new oil cooler installed. New lift pump. Replaced ICP sensor. Have 48.5 volts at the FICM. Replaced the fuel pressure spring to the blue one. All new filters. Does not smoke. Does not throw codes. I need to fix this truck one last time. It has a date with the bottem of a very deep lake! It has been nothing but a pos since it hit the ripe old age of 25k miles!
View 14 Replies
I have a little problem with my 1999 f250 7.3 power stroke diesel. Every once in awhile, while driving the truck would die completely but i switch it into neutral and started right up. What could be the problem?
View 9 Replies
We have replaced 4 fuel pumps on a row.
Voltage is good...even ran a fresh circuit.
Ran new supply lines
But, can't seem to understand the continued drop in pressure. It usually takes about a day of driving to crater after a new pump/filter is installed.
It never dies, just loses power and drops the truck to an idle. Funny thing...if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on...full power for a short period!
The truck is used on a ranch that has plenty of rough roads...thought inertia switch maybe but i believe that would stop fuel completely right?
I am totally stumped and so is the mechanic.
View 5 Replies
2003 6.0. Really, really hard or no start in winter. Started it up today and it misses until warmed up. That sounds like injectors.
The next issue is it stalls randomly they say. I tested FICM with a volt meter and it's constantly just a hair above 48 volts. Key on, cranking, running, doesn't matter. It's a 7 screw FICM in an 03 so I'm guessing it's been replaced. It also has 3 zip ties around the back half of the FICM. I'm not sure if it's holding the FICM in place, or holding a connector on the back.
Today after testing the FICM and starting it, and getting it warmed up, we let it idle around 30 minutes. It stalled like the key was shut off. When this happened, it would not restart for about 1 hour. It would crank and spin over fine, but you could tell it was just the engine spinning over and the injectors were not trying to fire. When it finally did start an hour later, it took some cranking and you could hear it trying to fire like the HPOP was empty and building up pressure before it lit off.
No CEL and oil pressure gauge on dash moved up to the middle while cranking. I'll put the scanner on it next time I'm there and watch live data during the no start condition. What all to monitor while cranking or where to look in case this isn't an unheard of 6.0 issue.
View 14 Replies
So the truck has been stalling out and dropping power randomly, symptoms pointed to needing the 50 cent mod, changed the cps for cheap insurance and peace of mind just in case it wasn't the uvch, no dice. So last night I yanked valve covers for the first time here's what I did while I was under there, check my work.
1st I ohmed out injectors thru the 42pin harness according to tuglys sig link. My meter would only go down to a 0.4 when testing the test leads just to each other
DS injector ohms
#2 3.5
#4 3.4
#6 3.6
#8 3.6
PS injector ohms
#1 3.6
#3 3.6
#5 3.5
#7 3.6
DS glow plug ohms
#2 prong to ground 2" away 0.9 ; white connecting wire back to gp relay 0.3
#4 0.9 wire to relay 0.5
#6 infinity ohms up thru highest meter setting, checked multiple times and different ground spots,(replacing tonight) wire to relay 0.5
#8 0.5 wire to relay 0.5
PS glow plug ohms
#1 1.0 ; white wire back to relay 0.6
#3 infinity multiple tests as well (replacing tonight) wire to relay 0.5
#5 0.9 wire to relay 0.6
#7 1.0 wire to relay 0.7
Next up, ebp sensor was reading 1.9 higher than map/baro koeo, gently cleaning sensor earlier didn't work. Installed new motorcraft, will check it with Torque pro koeo once the batteries are reconnected
Next I checked the uvch connections which felt good, darn it, maybe a smidge of movement from the DS, but nothing halfway disconnected or anything. Hmm. I ground down the quarters to the top of his head and installed.
Next I torqued down the 4 bolts per cylinder of the rocker arms at 20 ft/lbs, all were perfect and snug
Next up, injector torque. I've read on here below 50, or 80 in/lbs depending on different threads and opinions that I would need to replace o-rings.
So I set the in/lb click torque wrench at 50 in/# and tested the wrench's click on the higher torqued rocker bolts, then checked all the injectors, all were good
Reset for 80in/lbs, tested, then hit all injectors, #6 almost budged but clicked immediately before the handle moved
Reset for 100 in/lb, tested on larger bolt, 2 injectors took a 1/8 turn;
Reset for official spec of 120 in/lb , tested wrench, all injectors took 1/3 to 1 full turn
Reset for 130 in/lb (above official spec, but highly recommended on here by those way more knowledgeable than me on our engines) tested on a larger bolt, slowly and carefully gave all injectors almost an extra 1/2 turn to click; whew, finally a relaxed sphincter.
At this point I knew I needed to buy 2 glow plugs today, replace, then I'll check all glow plug torque at 14 ft/lb in one go, so I got everything ready for a hot torque after I do glow plugs tonight ("unloaded" the torque wrenches) and finally installed the RiffRaff AIH delete plug. My cell phone's alarm went off to get the kids ready for school, so hit the snooze and got everything put up. Now for a nap, then buy 2 Motorcraft GP and check back on here before going back at it tonight.
I also checked the turbo for play in all directions, was nicely solid and spun smooth, no wheel damage. Up pipes and well basically everything exhaust under hood had zero signs of soot/leaks with inspection mirror.
View 14 Replies
Changed CPS,EBPV sensor and tube,replaced IPR&fuel pressure regulator,batteries 100%,HPOP full,oil level full,fuel in bowl and lift pump runs(have not tested pressure but has good flow).After replacing IPR truck started quickly and idled for 15 minutes,decided to try a test drive ,truck stalled after reversing 10 ft as I shifted into first gear.Now no start!!Losing my mind.
View 4 Replies
