Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Truck Just Dies Like Shut The Key Off When Warm
Aug 10, 2016
I have a 99 7.3, I took off driving the other day and after about 10 minutes the truck just dies like I shut the key off but everything was still on. I tried to restart it and it would fire for just a sec then die. I set for about 15 minutes and tried again it fired up and ran about 5 mins then the same thing. I had a buddy hook it up to his scanner and it has a p0605 and another icp code.. We changed the icp then erased the codes.. Ran some rest through the scan took with the truck running and no codes so we took it for a drive made it about 20 minutes away and same thing but this time has the p0605 code again. Could the pcm be bad? I also noticed the electric pump is always on all the time it will cycle at least 30 seconds every time the key is turned??
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I've been working on my truck for months now on and off. I thought i finally had it back, but i have (again) problems with running. it basically only ran for a full day (hauling trip) after getting it back up and running. next day, it died on me on the road.
The new deal right now is that I can make the truck start and it will run, but it has little "hiccups" or misfires that will happen every now and then. Once it gets warm enough, the idling sounds chopped (best way i can explain it). After "chopping" it will then run fine (until the next chop). then it seems that once the truck gets warm it just stalls out. When that happens (shutting off) i can't get it to start right away. i have to wait awhile before it'll start and that lasts only so long.
The truck puffs a tiny bit of white smoke. not constant but more like a "puh - puh - puh" ....I've changed out quite a bit of used up parts now...
Turbo
Injectors & wiring harness
valve seals
IDM
ICP
IPR
CPS
MAP
fuel pump
vacuum pump
glow plug relay
starter relay
All the sensors are OEM. There's fuel in the fuel bowl, and the filter is clean. Plenty of oil in HPOP & oil level in crankcase is good. Have plenty of fuel.
Air filter is clean and fine. No codes. No lights.
2001 f350 7.3 320k on it.
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E99 zf6 180k. Ts 6 position and 6637. Just found d out the oil was 25000 miles old and changed it. 400 mile trip followed by a few days in town with no problems. Shut it off warm and it won't refire. Takes 3 loooong cranks. Few minutes later it restarts hard but not as hard. Head out for a few hundred mile trip and it's running fine except all of a sudden "bucks" a few times within a couple hour window. I took data during the trip and never saw anything strange. Today a cold start, around town driving, and warm restart were all normal.
My thoughts are to
1. Verify steady fuel pressure (I only have a temporary gauge setup)
2. Check the fuel filter for oil.
3. Pull the valve covers to look for injector oil leaks.
#3, though, I dunno if it's worth it. Perdels look fine and icp seems to be about the same as it always has.
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My truck is an 02 F250 7.3 with 280,000+ miles on it, so I wouldn't be surprised if I might have a number of things going wrong. It runs pretty good, but is still far from 100%, at least up to my standards. So the problem has been going on for the last two or three weeks and got worse today, and there were a few things leading up to it as well. I'll start off with the first thing that happened that I think might be related. It was about 6 months ago, my buddy and I were putting my new headlights in.
It was parked in his garage and we backed it out a little bit to try and adjust them. It was sitting there idling for a minute or two and just shut off or almost stalled out. Tried to restart it and it wouldn't start, tried multiple times to no avail. It acted similar to when I had glow plug troubles when I first got the truck, it would just crank and crank, but never actually kick over and start, along with putting white smoke out the exhaust. Ended up waiting about a half hour and then the truck fired right up with no problems after that, so I didn't think much of it.
Then fast forward to last week to when something similar happened. Started it up after sitting for a few days, started right up, idled for a few seconds and then just shut off. Started it back up ran for a second and died again. Tried a third time with the same result. Fourth time fired right up again and stayed running, let it run for a few minutes and was fine. Also along with this, there was a bad squeaking coming from the front of the truck, like what a belt would sound like. I have recently replaced the belt because it was squeaking and actually got chewed up and almost shredded completely apart.
So not sure why it is squeaking again, but not sure if this could be related or not. Then took it back to my dorm room to get my stuff, and then made it the hour or so drive home from school, without issue. Even went to a few stores before I went home, and shut the truck off and started it back up multiple times, again with no issues. When I drove back earlier this week it was fine until I got there and put it in park. It idled for few seconds and then cut out for a second, but then idled back up and continued to run fine. It has done that a few times as well. So it will do it on a cold start or after already fully warmed up.
Then it got worse today. Again had trouble starting it cold, same as what I explained early. Except second time cranking it wouldn't start at all, then on the third crank it started up and stayed running. But on the drive home is when it got worse. About 5 or 10 minutes into my drive, was just cruising doing at about 45 or 50, and truck just shut off, died/stalled out. It cut out and shut off for a second or two and then started itself back up and continued on like nothing happened. It scared the crap out of me the first time it happened, I was waiting for something like that to happen, but still wasn't quite ready for it.
The truck acted just like it would before you start it, with the key on, dash lights worked and the radio still worked. It did this 4 more times in similar ways, would die and then start back up, at various speeds and at roughly 5 or so minute intervals. I decided to just keep going as long as the truck would start and stay running, hoping to make it home. It did it a fifth time and this time the truck completely shut off and wouldn't restart itself. It was hard to see, as I was watching a few different things at one time, but I think it tried to restart, I noticed the tach bounce between 200-400 RPMS and then die. So I had to pull over and then restart it, fired up and drove fine. That was about half way home, and I made it the rest of the way home without any more problems.
So obviously I'm wondering what would be causing the truck to do this? I've done some reading and have a couple ideas, but not really for sure on anything. I was thinking maybe the CPS, I think it can cause a no start issue. Could ICP or the ICP sensor have something to do with it? I was also thinking maybe something fuel related, such as fuel pressure or a bad fuel pump. Any of those sound to be on the right track?
I have the torque pro app, but not exactly sure how to use it yet, and also just got access to my Uncle's Snap-on scanner, so I ran some tests and pulled some codes. How to more utilize these tools in diagnostics. I did get a few codes, but I'm not exactly sure how they might be related. The codes are pulled are:
P0470 Exhaust Pressure Sensor Circuit Fault. Just cleaned that out as well as the tube about a year ago, but I guess could be clogged again or has gone bad.
P1274 Cylinder 4 (E) High to Low Side Open. Did some reading and figured out that this could be UVCH related. At the same time, about a year ago, did new injector O-rings as well as all new Motorcraft UVCH's, so can't imagine that one is bad. Or that one could be loose, I would have guessed it would have happened more when I first did them, not a year later, but who knows.
Also pulled P1876 T-Case 2wd Solenoid Circuit Fault. Not sure if this is related at all, but also not sure what it means either. I read that it could be ESOF system related, which I do have, but I have manual lockout hubs, so maybe that's why it throws the code.
Also a few things that may or may not be related, but I think worth noting. Ever since I've had the truck the check engine light will pop on and off sometimes. It will do it on a cold start or, when I first start driving and its not fully warmed up yet. It does it most when the engine is still cold, and it almost never comes on once the truck is fully warmed up, but has came on and off more frequently lately. When driving, it will only stay on for a few seconds and more often when I'm lugging the engine or at lower rpms, and will commonly shut off if I let off the throttle.
I don't think it really comes on at higher rpms. I also have a slight oil leak in the valley of the engine, seems to maybe be coming from the front of the motor. Nothing too serious, leaves a small puddle where I park, loses enough to be at the add mark, a little before an oil change. Changed the oil about 1500 miles ago and have been able to notice a slight drop in oil level. Also I have changed the fuel filter in the last 500 miles.
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I know there are a few threads floating around regarding truck dieing, but mine is slightly different than the others, maybe its the same culprit, maybe not, but i thought i would start a new thread just in case.
First, I commute about 50 miles to work everyday, truck gets plenty of interstate highway run time, smooth as silk. About a month and half ago when i almost got to work I slowed to stop at a red light. As I came to a stop the truck "stumbled". Acted like it wanted to die but caught itself and kept going. I said whooaaaa girl, what this? Ive had this truck for almost 10 yrs now and never anything like this. About a week or so later, same commute, same red light, cept this time it dies. Starts right back up no problem. Just acted like someone turned the key off.
Then a week or so after that, while driving home this time, as I pulled up at the house to check the mail at the mailbox, when i came to a stop it died. Cranked right back up. Before I could put in drive, it died again. Cranked right back up and i drove on into the driveway. Then a few days later, while checking the mail again, it died again. Cranked up immediately and parked.
Today, while driving home, after i had gotten back to town, but before i got home i made a stop at bank drive thru, when i came to a stop, it died. While cranking it wanted to start and kind of stumbled on itself and died. Then it cranked right up and i came on home no problem.
So far it only occurs after approx 45min to 1 hr of operating time so the engine and everything else are at temp and far from cold. After reading thru some of the other threads of similar but different conditions (cold start dieing, dieing while under power, etc) Im getting flooded with ideas of what could cause it, but not settled on any.
1.Could be failing ICP? (original, has never been changed, 317k+).
2.Could be plugged fuel filters? (been a while since changing, approx 30k+)
3.Could related to one of my own earlier threads regarding possible failing alternator (when rpms drop can volts drop enough to kill engine?)
4.Could be loose ignition switch? (about 2 yrs ago i had to swap the blinker switch, to get to it had to remove the ignition. Upon re-installation the switch never did get tight as before and was loose. Been loose ever since. To the point that with key out of ignition and door ajar i will get the door chime as if the key was in ignition. I can bump the ignition, and chime goes away. Been this way for two years and no apparent problems. Until now maybe?)
I was thinking ICP after a few of the other threads, but after tonight Im leaning towards the ignition switch. I guess i can try to wiggle the switch after cranking tomorrow and see what that does for a trouble shooting effort. Is there a way to trouble shoot the ICP to see if its failing or not? Isn't that a fairly costly sensor? Would hate to buy one and not be the cause, but after 317k i may need to buy before too long anyway.
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I am at a loss on what this could be. For the past 8 - 9 months my truck will randomly miss and if I am going slow enough it will cause the engine to quit but only when it is raining. I sometimes get a service light when it happens but as soon as i turn the key off and back on it goes away. My truck runs perfect otherwise and even when it rains except when it randomly does what I just explained.
This started when I replaced my passenger side valve cover gasket and I also took out my "brain box" (don't remember what it's called) and put it back in (didn't replace it). I did have the up-pipe replaced as well around the same time and put in EGT, boost and trans temp gauges. That's about the only things engine compartment wise that's been done.
I did just take it to a shop to put on a scanner and after his testing it did spit out 1 code. It was the cam position sensor. Can this sensor cause what I have explained? Like I said, this only happens when it rains. Doesn't matter if it's poring or barely sprinkling.
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I have changed pickup filter in tank and cleaned 2 tube filters in tank i thought that would fix it.
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Like the title says my truck has been stalling while driving. Accelerating or cruising it dies for a second, two at the most, and then just keeps chugging along again.
I thought i'd fixed the problem last year when I did injector O-rings and 50 cented my UVCH. It hadn't done it since, until two days ago. Started out with a two good solid stalls while gently accelerating up hill. I had thought maybe my fuel pickup foot had finely given up the ghost because I was below a quarter tank. But I filled her up full, and then she did it again about 50 miles of driving later.
I didn't catch the first four stalls on my torque app, because I'd just recently decided to stop logging every trip, with the thinking that it had been half a year problem free, why keep logging waiting for something that isn't going to happen. I did catch the 5th stall on the torque log. But I'm having trouble trying to figure out where it happened in a 30 min log.
First question where would yall start in tracking this thing down? Next what data actually should be logged? I think I've got some extra stuff in my logs that isn't necessary, and is maybe bogging down the system. I get one data point per second resolution on my logs. Are there ways to improve the resolution, will getting rid of some PIDs work?
Lastly I need to attack this thing smartly, without throwing time and money at unneeded parts. I had surgery and I've been out of work for 3 months and I'm looking at another 6 before I'm making money again, and there is no unemployment for the self employed. Also I only get 3-4 light weight upright hours a day to work, exceed that and I'm back on the couch battling swelling for a week.
Also is there anything I can do while driving to "flag" the stalls so I can find them more easily in the logs?
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Truck starts great, and runs and idles fine until it warms up. This could be 15-20 minutes of driving or idling. Then it just dies. Like dead dies, lose power steering, everything (ac and lights still work, but no engine). It had died while idling, it has dies while cruising at 45mph. Then it will crank but no start. After about a 45min to an hour it will start like there was not issue, and pretty much drive the rest of the day (even after sitting) with no problem.
I installed the Adrenaline a few months ago, but the truck ran great for quite a while before this problem occurred. I did have it shipped with a rebuilt IPR. Tonight, I rebuilt the IPR with Guzzle's kit, and stripped it all the way down. Truck died again.
I have not had my AE hooked up when it died (stupid me today). But afterward I have been getting a few codes: P1283 (IPR Control Circuit) and P1212 (ICP lower than desired Engine crank or run).
When trying to start ICP duty cycle is about 64% and pressure is 185 to 190. If I unplug the ICP sensor pressure jumps to 2000ish, truck turns over faster and ICP Duty cycle goes to about 35%.
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Early 99' model I picked up. Blew the oil cooler and had lot of pressure in the Degas bottle, so did head job and oil cooler and now I'm Still getting a P0264. Unplug #8 injector truck almost dies, plug it up and she smooths out...
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Just tried putting a ts6 on my pcm. First time I hooked it back up I just got cranking with no start. So I pulled the pcm terminals really well plugged it back in and got nothing. I do not remember because I was kind of in a hurry if I unplugged the batter cables and back on the second time. I plugged it back in after cleaning terminals and went to start and got nothing. A loud click on passenger wheel well and then all electric in truck completely dies. I hope I didn't fry my pcm. Maybe just blew a fuse or starter relay?
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Last November I forgot to plug my truck in and it got down to 0, my girlfriend tried unsuccessfully to jump start it. When I got home I jumped it and got it running. I took it down to a heated shop to troubleshoot the glow plug circuit. I discovered it was not getting 12v to the glow plug relay. Also I started it and tried to back it up in the shop, when put in reverse it killed the engine, not lugged it down it was like you shut the switch off.
Also I discovered if you turn the lights on it kills the engine immediately. It will not crank with the lights on either. So far I have replaced the computer,ignition switch,batteries, and cam positioning sensor. Now comes the weird part!! I decided to get it running and pull the bulbs out of the back up lights I pulled the drivers bulb first then the passengers side bulb. When I pulled the passengers side bulb it killed the engine.
It is not my daily driver so it still sits in my shop. I have a hunch it's a ground issue but I've checked and cleaned up all the grounds I can find and it still has the problem.
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I have a little problem with my 1999 f250 7.3 power stroke diesel. Every once in awhile, while driving the truck would die completely but i switch it into neutral and started right up. What could be the problem?
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We have replaced 4 fuel pumps on a row.
Voltage is good...even ran a fresh circuit.
Ran new supply lines
But, can't seem to understand the continued drop in pressure. It usually takes about a day of driving to crater after a new pump/filter is installed.
It never dies, just loses power and drops the truck to an idle. Funny thing...if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on...full power for a short period!
The truck is used on a ranch that has plenty of rough roads...thought inertia switch maybe but i believe that would stop fuel completely right?
I am totally stumped and so is the mechanic.
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2003 6.0. Really, really hard or no start in winter. Started it up today and it misses until warmed up. That sounds like injectors.
The next issue is it stalls randomly they say. I tested FICM with a volt meter and it's constantly just a hair above 48 volts. Key on, cranking, running, doesn't matter. It's a 7 screw FICM in an 03 so I'm guessing it's been replaced. It also has 3 zip ties around the back half of the FICM. I'm not sure if it's holding the FICM in place, or holding a connector on the back.
Today after testing the FICM and starting it, and getting it warmed up, we let it idle around 30 minutes. It stalled like the key was shut off. When this happened, it would not restart for about 1 hour. It would crank and spin over fine, but you could tell it was just the engine spinning over and the injectors were not trying to fire. When it finally did start an hour later, it took some cranking and you could hear it trying to fire like the HPOP was empty and building up pressure before it lit off.
No CEL and oil pressure gauge on dash moved up to the middle while cranking. I'll put the scanner on it next time I'm there and watch live data during the no start condition. What all to monitor while cranking or where to look in case this isn't an unheard of 6.0 issue.
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My truck runs very rough and lacks power when cold, even during the Texas summer. Once it warms-up, everything is fine. It's almost like turning on a light switch. If it's plugged in for a couple/few hours, it's smooth as soon as it starts. I'm assuming it likes the oil once it reaches a specific temperature. What my problem is?
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Changed CPS,EBPV sensor and tube,replaced IPR&fuel pressure regulator,batteries 100%,HPOP full,oil level full,fuel in bowl and lift pump runs(have not tested pressure but has good flow).After replacing IPR truck started quickly and idled for 15 minutes,decided to try a test drive ,truck stalled after reversing 10 ft as I shifted into first gear.Now no start!!Losing my mind.
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So on my way home today I lost all power, the engine shut of and i coasted to side of the road. Went to try and start, nothing. When key is in the crank position the gauges were jumping all over the place, also accompanied by a lot of clicking from behind the dash. Nothing happened when tried to crank. No power to windows or even emergency flashers.
So i get it towed home, and of course it turns over. But this only lasts about ten seconds, then dies. I could do that a few times and then back to no power at all. Even at times with the keys out of ignition it will still click and make a lot of noise.
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I started my truck this morning and drove it quarter of a mile down the road to get some food letting it idle while in the drive through. While pulling away from the drive through window it started idling ruff . I drove it to the hotel and it ran perfectly normal until at a stop light and it started skipping again. If I put it on high idle it really starts skipping. Above 1500rpm it stops. What do you think?
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My 99 E350 with 7.3 power stroke quickly lost power while on the highway today, bogged down and died. I couldn't get it restarted so had to have it towed home. I tried getting it started at home but it just pumps out white smoke out the exhaust. I got it to fire and run for a minute on a mixture of starting fluid and wd40 but wont stay running. Some background info, I checked oil and it was low but still registered at very tip of dipstick so I topped off oil level and still no start unless I give it a mixture of starting fluid and wd40. Batteries are good and cranking fast. Truck has 355,000 miles but very little blow by and prior to this had plenty of power and didn't have to use the block heater to start it thru the winter even when the temps dropped down to 12 degrees in January.
One thing I did have an issue with this past year was an intermittent cutting out while driving where the engine would instantly shut off but as soon as I tapped accelerator pedal it would start running again like nothing happened, wouldn't even last two seconds and it was running again just like shutting off the key and turning it back on and when it would do that the "Wait to start" light would come on and gauges would drop like key was off but again it all went back normal as soon as I hit a bump or tapped the accelerator pedal and it never lasted more than a second or two and never had to pull over, just tap the pedal or hit a bump and engine would kick in and run fine so not sure if that's related to whats going on now or not.
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Lately I had a couple glitches seemingly unrelated with this electrical system. Something just failed. I have two new motor craft batteries cleaned all wires/ clamps. The alternator has been tested good. The other morning I started my truck and smelt a wire burning up before I took off. Battery positive to glow plug relay was hot. The solenoid was junk so I replaced it. Still not the problem. With the battery positive hooked to the solenoid, truck will not shut off. It will shut off by key if the wire is unhooked. I do know this. When hooked up, the battery positive is feeding voltage (.4v) through a new solenoid to the PCM, thus keeping the pcm life when the key goes off. Bad pcm? With the battery positive hooked up to the glow plug solenoid. There is such a large draw that the charging system cannot keep up. Wich out me on The side of the interstate at 1 am as I watched my lights grow dimmer til truck stalled. U hooked the battery positive from solenoid got a jump and been fine since....however, there's a major problem lying there right?
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