When I let off on the throttle the truck jerk forward a little. It does it some times when hitting the throttle too. I have changed u joints in the drive shaft. I noticed the carrier bearing has a little play (going to change it this weekend). But I wouldn't think that would cause this.
View 14 RepliesSo I installed my chip today. It's got anti-theft, high idle, stock, 50, 75, 100 tunes.
With the chip installed the truck starts. In all tunes except "High Idle" it idles at about 1000... normally it would be like 500-600. High idle position works (1100-1200 RPM). Anti-theft position works - it kills the truck. The throttle does nothing when pressed no matter which position it is in. Stock, 50, 75 or 100.
I removed the chip and the truck runs fine. Did these guys send me one for an automatic? Or do I have the wrong computer in my truck? My computer code is DAC3 and the truck is a 2000 with a manual transmission.
Last night I bought 2000 F250, 346k on it... Crew cab short bed 4x4 with ranch hand bumpers like I wanted .... Headed back home (Miami FL ~1100mi) and covered about 200 miles @70-75mph before i ran into few problems ....
First off, while cruising I noticed slight hesitation in the throttle, with loss of speed regardless of pedal pressure, noticeable on inclines. It would go away on downhill and get smooth response again and pick up speed. This went on for about 40 miles.
Then I noticed heater blower stop blowing hot and start blowing cold, without me changing any settings. At the same moment, I noticed temp gauge move up and I hit next exit offramp to check what's up. During right turn at the end of off ramp truck stalled. Pulled to the shoulder, and popped hood.
Noticed empty degass/overflow bottle. Carefully opened lid and water gushed up to the top. When all pressure slowly released, water pulled down and emptied the bottle. Both upper and lower radiator hoses are empty. Engine oil has no traces of water tho. There were no leaks under the truck. I then tried to fire up the truck to get me to the gas station 1/8th mile away.
No crank in Park. WTS comes on and goes off. Cranks in Neutral, RPMs come up some, oil pressure shoots up to normal running position, but won't fire. Tried a while then gave up as not to kill starter and batteries completely.
Fuel pump works 20 sec then shuts off. There is fuel in bowl. I covered 140 miles since last full fill up, so not fuel pickup issue I don't think.
Summary
Have crank
Have RPM
Have oil pressure
Have fuel
Have (had) batteries, now not so hot
It's cold out ....
I have had a problem where truck would start jerking and sputtering in a certain town at low speeds. Today it happened in a new place. Barely got it to start back up. Was running rough after the puff of black smoke. Its stranded at a gas station. Recently replaced my sending unit. Was running good. Clean gas tank. Fuel lines tight. Where should I begin? I have an ICP sensor in the glove box. Truck wouldn't start.
View 8 Replies1999 F250 7.3 .. The truck seems to idle fine and and runs smooth all the way up top cruising speed, but when it levels out at say 65mph then it starts missing and jumping. I can ease into the throttle a little and it smooths out up until it levels out again.
I have the Vgate Elm and Car Guage Pro and a couple of other apps and the only DTCs I'm getting anymore are:
P0541 Intake Air Heater Circuit Low
P0640 Intake Air Heater Control Circuit
But from what I've read, neither of those should cause this issue.
Buzz test sounds good.
Cylinder Contribution test throws code for #4 Cylinder
I'm trying to do everything possible before throwing an injector in it.
I have a little problem with my 1999 f250 7.3 power stroke diesel. Every once in awhile, while driving the truck would die completely but i switch it into neutral and started right up. What could be the problem?
View 9 RepliesThis morning on my way to work I pulled up to a light and the check engine light came on. I went to go and had no throttle response at all. The truck just idled through the intersection. About 45 seconds later the light went out and truck ran fine all the way back to work. What to look for or what it could have been.
View 5 Replies165k miles 4x4 6 speed, bone stock unmolested
Slowly progressing problem over 6 months. Occasional miss at highway speeds uphill has progressed to bucking and jerking during even gentle acceleration attempts.
I hadn't got my cam sensor recall done but no change after that procedure completed yesterday. Oil recently changed as well.
I have a torque pro but it never finds any fault codes even though 'service engine' light comes on sporadically. I'm not sure I'm operating it properly but it at least reads rpm when its running.
I'm contemplating the hutch mod but I'd like to have an official diagnosis beforehand if its possible in my case.
i got a 99 F250 powerstroke with 148K on its clock, i have a couple issues that i cant find a definitive answer for, 1 just started recently, Its an automatic and when it shifts into third around 40 mph the rpms drop to 1200-1300 or so, its done it since i got it, but recently it wont accelerate like it should or used to do, i have to put it down and make it downshift to recover.
Now I have no CEL. and it is still running perfect just has very little power, I do have a 4 inch turbo back exhaust and have a TS 6 position chip with i usually run in +50hp mode, but it does this in all positions. Now issue 2 is when its 30 degrees sometimes it will not start. It'll turn over with now fire. but if i cycle the key again it'll fire right up like a champ? It has a 4 month old starter and batteries and a month old alternator and i have tried several CPS' and Contently check the connections.
I just put a regulated return system, two external filters and two fuel pumps, and I am still have problems.
Under acceleration driving it drops to almost 20 psi and that only 1/4 throttle.
3/4 throttle drops to 10 psi and barely idel. Died twice a block away from my house of test drives.
Tank is done with mods, new cps, icp, and ipr.
My 7.3 has no throttle response, the code reader says pass, and there are no codes, would it do this even thow it has a bad TPS?
View 4 RepliesComming back from hunting today my truck suddenly lost power and stepping on the accelearator had no effect at all. We were on the highway thru the mountains but on a fairly level stretch for a few miles. Managed to pull the truck and toy hauler over and the engine was running fine but stepping on the accelerator had no effect. The check engine light came on every time I stepped on the throttle and went out when I released it. It started fine but no throttle response. Switched around a bunch of relays and checked the fuses and still nothing.
Not liking my parking spot i tried to see if it would move down the road at an idle but it would not. Then I thought to try it in 4 wheel low and as the shoulders were soft it wouldn't move forward so tried reverse and went back a foot, forward again and moved a foot and a half. did this several times and all of a sudden the throttle responded, took it out of 4 wheel and it ran fine all the way home. What would have caused this? I was ready to call a tow truck which would have been several hundred dollar bills for where we were and with the trailer
I have a '01 7.3 Excursion 2WD. 220,000 miles. It has a 4" exhaust, K&N filter and Edge Reprogrammer set on emission illegal. It gets the best fuel economy and moves out very well for 8000 lbs. Recently, I started to feel a surge while making light throttle acceleration. For example, round a corner at 35 and try to gently resume the 45 Speed limit. It begins to accelerate and then cuts out or surges, sometimes several times. If I lay into it, it responds fine. I have serviced the air filter, the fuel filter, use synthetic Amsoil. I did notice a slight improvement after the service. Less frequent cutting out or surging. I also was in an area where Bio diesel is readily available. I added almost a full tank of B10 Bio and it seemed to work. Changed the fuel filter just after.
It has been cold for NC. This morning it was +14 when I started the truck. It seemed to finally catch on maybe 2 cylinders with lots o' white/ blue smoke. It cleared out in a few minutes and seemed to be hitting on all 8, or at least 7. Once it warmed up, it's fine. But I had the codes p0672, p0674, p0676, p0678. My question is: Is there a common thread in the fact that it appears that I lost 4 glow plugs on the same bank?
One arm chair quarter back's response to the surging, is that the under valve cover injector wiring harness may be breaking down, especially since the truck has 220,000 and the valve covers have never been off. I have a fresh turbo with the good wheel sitting ready. I have just been too lazy to swap it out. Would a fresh set of injectors be a wise choice, when I swap over?
I have a 99 F450 with the 7.3L in it. I brought it home the other day and parked it. Later I went to do something with it and I had no throttle response at all. I checked the wiring going in and coming out of the throttle position sensor. I have approx. 5 volts going in and the voltage sits at about .5 volts and rises as the accelerator is depressed on the outgoing wire. The other switch on the pedal is open and does close when the pedal is depressed, so it seems those are fine. I'm not sure what I'm supposed to have on the 3rd wire that goes to the TPS.
I have a Bully Dog tuner and it shows an exhaust back pressure sensor error and a couple of voltage errors to the accelerator pedal. I read somewhere that someone had an exhaust sensor short out and it starved the accelerator pedal from voltage or something like that but I do have good voltage at the pedal going in and out. I ordered a new sensor and tube.
If the exhaust pressure sensor was shorting out and I unhooked the wires could that make the pedal work if the sensor was the problem or would the accelerator pedal not work at all without that sensor being connected? (The old tube was somewhat plugged up and I saw it had a small rust hole in it)
If it's not the sensor, what else can I check? Where can I check under the hood to see if the wires from the TPS are getting power to where they need to? I assume they go to the computer and that tells the pump or whatever to give more fuel.
Ok, still working out some issues: It may be normal, but I hear (not feel) a slight roar when I'm pressing throttle petal very lightly. Seems to do it as we'll when I'm backing off throttle but it stops when I let off pedal completely. Not there when I get into the pedal. Not the tires because it stops all together when I get off throttle and let it roll. Turbo maybe ? Rear end (wouldn't it do it even when rolling)? No vibrations at all....just a little roar.
View 9 RepliesMy 2002 f250 starts but has no throttle, I did replace the throttle body, still no luck, i did find a wire on the shiffter that had a bad spot , fixxed it still no throttle, code reader says it passes with no codes, I disconnected both batteries and waited 15 to 20 min, reconnected them, started the truck and let it idle for 20 min so what do i need to do now. I just cant figure it out....
View 7 RepliesI have a 1999 f-250 super duty 7.3 .... Recently my truck has started making a humming noise when push the throttle and I can feel a slight vibration, the noise and vibration go away when I let off the throttle, I have changed all five u joints, both wheel bearings in the front, the steady bearing, changed tranny and both diff oils, put new brakes and calipers all around and pulled apart the hubs but I can't seem to find what's causing it. What it could be or what I could check? It has an 8 inch lift and is sitting on 37's and some performance upgrades, could any of that cause this ?
View 9 RepliesMy truck will set an idle fine but when I hit the throttle it will die.
View 3 Replies2000 F-350 7.3L no gauges or throttle, I checked the fuses and no luck....
View 4 RepliesFord catalog does not list the TPS for a 1999 7.3 Super Duty as a separate replaceable part which leads to replacing the whole throttle pedal assembly. I found this to be incorrect. If you have a throttle pedal assembly with separate TPS (separate 3 wire connector) and IVS (Idle Validation Switch 2 wire connector) just the TPS can be replaced.
This is a pic of my 99 with new TPS installed : [URL] .....
Without removing the whole assembly you only need to remove the 2 T25 screws and the connector to replace.
Since this part is listed for more then 20 Ford trucks I figured it would work in my 99 7.3. I bought a brand new TPS from Pete (F250_) that he could not use. He has a 2002 with one 5 wire connector. It works perfectly in my 99. Not sure if it will work in a 2000 or 2001 but if the TPS and IVS each have their own connector it should. Make a visual inspection to be sure.
Part DY-967 or F4SZ-9B989-AA - Potentiometer
I was going to go with a Dorman TPS but like PartsGuyED likes to say "OEM Baby". The OEM TPS through Ed is actually cheaper then the Dorman.
Side-by-side pic of the old and new TPS. Only the center rotating part is different but it fits and works just fine. It also has a better fit so there is less slop and almost immediate response.
NewOldTPS.jpg?t=1269362105
By the way, the original TPS was working fine so I have no idea what the symptoms of a bad TPS are. Since it was available I replaced it to have a spare and to see if this one would work. Both Pete and I thought it would and we were right.
Background: '01 Excursion 7.3 4WD, 264,xxx miles, batteries less than three years old, new alternator [URL] .... , using an Edge Insight for digital readings.
Problem: I replaced the alternator about three weeks ago, first week all normal. Second week alt/battery idiot light comes on, then to add more frustration it is consistently inconsistent in its reading.
The volts (upon starting) jump around 11.6 - 12.1 when first starting. The light comes on while accelerating and goes off during no throttle while cold.
After warm-up the light will come on intermittently even though the reading is 13.0>, but never during off throttle.
It seems to do this more when cold but it does not completely stop when it's warm. Yes, I don't think that should be a factor but it is a reality .
I'm thinking it's a bad voltage regulator.