Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Truck Feels Jerky With Engine Light Cutting On And Off
Mar 30, 2017
So apparently even though the engine light is coming on and off it's not recording any error codes.I tried with my reader, one from Auto one, and then a better one at a local shop, none of them would show anything. The issue is it feels jerky when the light comes on(or goes off). Imagine cutting your cruise control off while it's accelerating and then immediately cutting it back on and that's similar to what it feels like. What could be the cause? I guess I might drive my wife to work tomorrow so I can go by the dealership in Atwater Ca (I'm a bit worried, the one in Yuma, AZ tried to rip me off for three grand).
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Truck started losing power then service engine light came on, drove about another mile then it just stalled ( almost home lees than a 1/4 mile). Got out open hood oil everywhere on top of motor. Looked under truck and oil all over the road. Looked back where I was driving a line of oil as far an I could see. Checked oil barely any on stick. Where should I start hpop or plug?
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Engine felt like it was running out fuel, injectors were clacking. I got home put on AE and it has a low high open on the code reading. took valve cover off and plug came out. I did the quarter modification.
Anyway took the truck out a few days later truck drove ok when cold then after about an hour it lost power again and started clacking until it died out. I had to stop and let it cool off about 10 times before i made it home. I changed ICP sensor. took it out for ride and about ten minutes later same thing. I have to let oil temp get down to 165 before i can drive it again.
When i first drive it Icp pressure is about 500 at idle and 2650 at full throttle, that is until it starts clacking again and losing power then the engine wont take any throttle..and ICP duty cycle is at 26%... Would bad IPR do this??
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So about 3-4 times per day, my truck will accelerate very quickly with the slightest touch of the gas pedal, then followed by the service engine soon light...I checked for any codes to see what I may need to fix, but no codes are found.
What this could be? I am also having issues to where I a few times per day I have to put my truck in neutral to get it to start instead of in park...could the two be related?
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00' 7.3 is acting a little strange lately. i was towing a 15 foot trailer the other day for about 250 miles that wasn't all that heavy and my foot felt like it was very close to the floor. I had it to the floor and the truck would only go 60. now even without that trailer its better but still i feel as if i have to really put my foot down into it to speed up. if i go all the way to the floor in o/d it'll downshift and start speeding up but very very slowly then i run out of pedal and am at the floor, a lot slower than before. Before i wouldn't get to the floor and id already be moving pretty good. but now i gotta keep it pretty much 3/4 way down and keep it there to get up to speed and stay there. truck has 253k no tuner or programmer just 6637 intake and an exhaust, ww2. leveled on 35's. the tranny isn't slipping or at least doesn't seem to be. She doesn't shift perfect but its not anything crazy bad for stock with 253k on it. maybe something wrong with the actual pedal? or hopefully not but maybe the trans or motor , or maybe a sensor or something?
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2002 F250 7.3 4WD Lariat 129K miles ... Brake lights come on when truck is off/no key ...
Ford replaced VSM in Nov. 2012 for this problem
Ford found rubbing wire upon pedal depression and re-routed wiring in April 2015, again for this same problem.
What gives. I'm hesitant to take it back to the Ford house... any theories??
Also, when ignition is in "on" position, transmission and coolant gauge register "cold". Upon starting, coolant stays at "cold" but tranny gauge immediately goes in to "normal" range. Shouldn't it also say it's still "cold"?
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I have a 2001 F350, 7.3. My service engine light came on and immediately the truck started to run rough and lose some power. I've checked the under the cover connections and they were both connected, I replaced the cam position sensor and I still have the same problem. The worse part of the hold thing is that there are no codes stored so I'm flying bind. Where to go next.
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Ok, the swap is all done and I have an engine in the truck that has compression in more than (7) cylinders.
2002, 7.3, 4wd - ~120k miles on trans. Fresh fluid (Mercon V).
Put the gear selector in reverse and it goes right into gear with the normal tug and functions as it should. Put it in low gear and it also appears to work fine. But, when selecting '2' or 'drive' it feels almost like its engaging 2 gears at once?? There is limited forward motion and it feels like the brakes are on. I have not driven further than the driveway yet, but I have a long driveway...
The OD light does not come on. I am not getting any codes from AE, but I really don't know how to use it for transmission stuff (I've been using a different scan tool that I no longer have).
We have not put the bed on the truck, so no tail lights - but 3rd brake light has new bulbs and was working (didn't check this AM though... )
I have a couple other codes, CEL, 'check gauges' and no tach. Gonna start another thread for those issues, I'll put a link here in case its related.
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I bought a 7.3 f250 with 300k mi. It had a battery light on but didn't show any signs of trouble. Eventually started dropping volts a few days later and I replaced the alternator. The light is still on and flickers in time with the idle of the truck and sometimes goes out when I'm on the gas pedal. Some nights when the lights are on the voltage drops ever so slowly until its drained. Why the new alternator didn't fix the problem? NAPA's scanner says the truck has 12.4V at idle and 12.1V at idle with the lights on. Batteries are relatively new and test fine, dual Interstate Mega-tron Plus batteries-top of the line.
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Battery light comes on when the truck is running at less than about 1200rpm, but I see zero movement on the needle. Weird thing is i charged the batteries and tested the alternator with my multimeter and it was reading 14.1-14.2 which is nominal. Run it for about 10 min then it reads 12.3-12.8
I'm thinking a bad cell in the battery or alternator is going out. Oh and all the connections are tight, wires look good. 2001 f250 4wd 7.3 intake exhaust basic tuner gauges. Could the constant heat be a factor?
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I have a little problem with my 1999 f250 7.3 power stroke diesel. Every once in awhile, while driving the truck would die completely but i switch it into neutral and started right up. What could be the problem?
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I put a 150 w converter into one of my 12-watt power female and all of a sudden when i turned the engine on my check engine light came on with 4 glow plugs bad and now won't pass smog. any way i can turn off the check engine light so it won't comes up on the smog test?
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I need to move my 5th wheel which is in a trailer park at the moment. I went to take my truck to move it and the engine light came on and it seems to idle a little rough. I hooked up a code reader to the diagnostic port and it says no codes are found. I have a fuel pressure gauge, boost gauge, Exhaust gauge and they all seem to be fine, the original gauges in the dash all seem normal as well.
I have stage 1.5 injectors installed with a power hungry programmer and adrenaline HPOP. the truck sounds fine but vibrates pretty good when I try to drive it. I am also getting black exhaust smoke from the tail pipe when I gas it. This is new as it always ran really clean unless I was in the higher setting on the power hungry controller.
So to recap, idles rough, vibration while driving, engine light on with no codes when my code reader is plugged in, black smoke out of tail pipe.
Rob
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So i replaced the faulty injector and the truck starts up great and runs great. The only issue is that now when i accelerate, the SES light comes on until i let it up a little. If i am at cruising speed or just a steady speed the light goes off. I havent checked for codes yet because the light didnt stay on. I have AE and know how to use most of it. Is there something i should be looking at? Could it have something to do with the Blue/Gray CPS i installed or maybe there could still be an air bubble in the oil rail from when i drained the rail ? I have a DP tuner and stage-1 injectors. Regardless it sure is nice to have my truck back out on the road. It was a horrible 3 weeks without it.
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Light came on a few days ago. 2000 exc with 7.3 diesel the mileage report said 155000. Took it to Autozone a hour ago and these are the codes: P0683, P0676 and P1670.
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I bought my 2000 7.3L Ex as salvage back in 2005. It had been through a driver side rollover and the seller had restored it. We lived in North Idaho then. But I remember I always had an issue with the check engine light being on. I don't remember what the codes said, but many mechanics read them and determined that nothing was wrong. Many surmised that someone had put a high performance chip in the computer and that was what was causing the check engine light to come on. All of them reset the computer and every time it would come back on. Should I replace the computer?
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1999 f250 7.3 101k California truck ... Scanned it said #1 glow plug did not clear the code. But now the check engine light is off again...
Questions : Harness issue ? Glow plug bad at 100k ? Glow plug controller ?
Start at glow plug work way back to GP CM or in reverse ?
Replacement Do all 8 or just the bank of 4 ?
Thoughts on replacement brands
Accurate diesel glow plug replacement kits any good, will they last ?
Or go factory glow plugs
What about Felpro gaskets
I heard about another brand of GP CM
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2001 F350 290,000 no mods other than 6637, 2WD
Towed our new to us RV home last, only 15 miles from the dealer and yes its a big 5th for my truck at 12,000lbs. Anyhow, about 2 mins from home as I'm pulling off the freeway I got a SES light come up, then it disappeared. I checked codes this morning using forscan and nothing shows to indicate what it may be.
I was wondering if the transmission is getting hot if it throws an SES? It was only a short trip, but I have no real idea of the condition of the trans as the truck is new to us too - fluid looks and smells good.
Only new code is an ABS one c1229, c1233, C1234. I had 2 of them before - think the 1229 is the new one.
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A friend with a 2003 came to me Thursday. He has a dash light on that is an image of an engine. Sitting in the drivers seat, it is to his left. I do not recall seeing this image in my 2001. What might his problem be?
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so got to work today, truck engine light comes on all foward motion stops. Just coasts and idles along. I have 280k on the orig stock trans. I also have dp tuner and did the valve body upgrade along with adding the 6.0 cooler hoping to extend the life of the trans. Reverse works. So i asume I am needinf a new trans. My options are Ford HDr4100 orig 4100, Or BTS built trans. I also pull a toy hauler as well. My question is If I order the BTS can I have a my local shop install it or does it need to be programmed at the dealer. If I get the HD from ford installed will I have to remove the dp tuner chip to get it programmed and also will i need another new valve body replacement.
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So when I bought the car, it had a check engine light. I had it checked it said cylinder 5 misfire. I assumed it was the glow plug so I bought it and replaced the glow plugs myself. Check engine light went away for about a day then came back on. Got it checked again and still said cylinder 5 misfire. This is my first diesel and I'm clueless as to what's wrong. Any way to check what's wrong myself?
Also just to double check, the cylinder number is 1, 3, 5, 7 for the passenger side front to back right? And 2, 4, 6, 8 for drivers side? And front to back means when looking at the front of the car? 2001 7.3 Excursion Limited with 232k miles...
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