Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Truck Hiccups Under Idle And Dies When Warm
Jul 10, 2017
I've been working on my truck for months now on and off. I thought i finally had it back, but i have (again) problems with running. it basically only ran for a full day (hauling trip) after getting it back up and running. next day, it died on me on the road.
The new deal right now is that I can make the truck start and it will run, but it has little "hiccups" or misfires that will happen every now and then. Once it gets warm enough, the idling sounds chopped (best way i can explain it). After "chopping" it will then run fine (until the next chop). then it seems that once the truck gets warm it just stalls out. When that happens (shutting off) i can't get it to start right away. i have to wait awhile before it'll start and that lasts only so long.
The truck puffs a tiny bit of white smoke. not constant but more like a "puh - puh - puh" ....I've changed out quite a bit of used up parts now...
Turbo
Injectors & wiring harness
valve seals
IDM
ICP
IPR
CPS
MAP
fuel pump
vacuum pump
glow plug relay
starter relay
All the sensors are OEM. There's fuel in the fuel bowl, and the filter is clean. Plenty of oil in HPOP & oil level in crankcase is good. Have plenty of fuel.
Air filter is clean and fine. No codes. No lights.
2001 f350 7.3 320k on it.
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I have a 99 7.3, I took off driving the other day and after about 10 minutes the truck just dies like I shut the key off but everything was still on. I tried to restart it and it would fire for just a sec then die. I set for about 15 minutes and tried again it fired up and ran about 5 mins then the same thing. I had a buddy hook it up to his scanner and it has a p0605 and another icp code.. We changed the icp then erased the codes.. Ran some rest through the scan took with the truck running and no codes so we took it for a drive made it about 20 minutes away and same thing but this time has the p0605 code again. Could the pcm be bad? I also noticed the electric pump is always on all the time it will cycle at least 30 seconds every time the key is turned??
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I know there are a few threads floating around regarding truck dieing, but mine is slightly different than the others, maybe its the same culprit, maybe not, but i thought i would start a new thread just in case.
First, I commute about 50 miles to work everyday, truck gets plenty of interstate highway run time, smooth as silk. About a month and half ago when i almost got to work I slowed to stop at a red light. As I came to a stop the truck "stumbled". Acted like it wanted to die but caught itself and kept going. I said whooaaaa girl, what this? Ive had this truck for almost 10 yrs now and never anything like this. About a week or so later, same commute, same red light, cept this time it dies. Starts right back up no problem. Just acted like someone turned the key off.
Then a week or so after that, while driving home this time, as I pulled up at the house to check the mail at the mailbox, when i came to a stop it died. Cranked right back up. Before I could put in drive, it died again. Cranked right back up and i drove on into the driveway. Then a few days later, while checking the mail again, it died again. Cranked up immediately and parked.
Today, while driving home, after i had gotten back to town, but before i got home i made a stop at bank drive thru, when i came to a stop, it died. While cranking it wanted to start and kind of stumbled on itself and died. Then it cranked right up and i came on home no problem.
So far it only occurs after approx 45min to 1 hr of operating time so the engine and everything else are at temp and far from cold. After reading thru some of the other threads of similar but different conditions (cold start dieing, dieing while under power, etc) Im getting flooded with ideas of what could cause it, but not settled on any.
1.Could be failing ICP? (original, has never been changed, 317k+).
2.Could be plugged fuel filters? (been a while since changing, approx 30k+)
3.Could related to one of my own earlier threads regarding possible failing alternator (when rpms drop can volts drop enough to kill engine?)
4.Could be loose ignition switch? (about 2 yrs ago i had to swap the blinker switch, to get to it had to remove the ignition. Upon re-installation the switch never did get tight as before and was loose. Been loose ever since. To the point that with key out of ignition and door ajar i will get the door chime as if the key was in ignition. I can bump the ignition, and chime goes away. Been this way for two years and no apparent problems. Until now maybe?)
I was thinking ICP after a few of the other threads, but after tonight Im leaning towards the ignition switch. I guess i can try to wiggle the switch after cranking tomorrow and see what that does for a trouble shooting effort. Is there a way to trouble shoot the ICP to see if its failing or not? Isn't that a fairly costly sensor? Would hate to buy one and not be the cause, but after 317k i may need to buy before too long anyway.
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We have replaced 4 fuel pumps on a row.
Voltage is good...even ran a fresh circuit.
Ran new supply lines
But, can't seem to understand the continued drop in pressure. It usually takes about a day of driving to crater after a new pump/filter is installed.
It never dies, just loses power and drops the truck to an idle. Funny thing...if I shut the truck off and turn it right back on...full power for a short period!
The truck is used on a ranch that has plenty of rough roads...thought inertia switch maybe but i believe that would stop fuel completely right?
I am totally stumped and so is the mechanic.
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I am at a loss on what this could be. For the past 8 - 9 months my truck will randomly miss and if I am going slow enough it will cause the engine to quit but only when it is raining. I sometimes get a service light when it happens but as soon as i turn the key off and back on it goes away. My truck runs perfect otherwise and even when it rains except when it randomly does what I just explained.
This started when I replaced my passenger side valve cover gasket and I also took out my "brain box" (don't remember what it's called) and put it back in (didn't replace it). I did have the up-pipe replaced as well around the same time and put in EGT, boost and trans temp gauges. That's about the only things engine compartment wise that's been done.
I did just take it to a shop to put on a scanner and after his testing it did spit out 1 code. It was the cam position sensor. Can this sensor cause what I have explained? Like I said, this only happens when it rains. Doesn't matter if it's poring or barely sprinkling.
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I have changed pickup filter in tank and cleaned 2 tube filters in tank i thought that would fix it.
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Like the title says my truck has been stalling while driving. Accelerating or cruising it dies for a second, two at the most, and then just keeps chugging along again.
I thought i'd fixed the problem last year when I did injector O-rings and 50 cented my UVCH. It hadn't done it since, until two days ago. Started out with a two good solid stalls while gently accelerating up hill. I had thought maybe my fuel pickup foot had finely given up the ghost because I was below a quarter tank. But I filled her up full, and then she did it again about 50 miles of driving later.
I didn't catch the first four stalls on my torque app, because I'd just recently decided to stop logging every trip, with the thinking that it had been half a year problem free, why keep logging waiting for something that isn't going to happen. I did catch the 5th stall on the torque log. But I'm having trouble trying to figure out where it happened in a 30 min log.
First question where would yall start in tracking this thing down? Next what data actually should be logged? I think I've got some extra stuff in my logs that isn't necessary, and is maybe bogging down the system. I get one data point per second resolution on my logs. Are there ways to improve the resolution, will getting rid of some PIDs work?
Lastly I need to attack this thing smartly, without throwing time and money at unneeded parts. I had surgery and I've been out of work for 3 months and I'm looking at another 6 before I'm making money again, and there is no unemployment for the self employed. Also I only get 3-4 light weight upright hours a day to work, exceed that and I'm back on the couch battling swelling for a week.
Also is there anything I can do while driving to "flag" the stalls so I can find them more easily in the logs?
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Truck starts great, and runs and idles fine until it warms up. This could be 15-20 minutes of driving or idling. Then it just dies. Like dead dies, lose power steering, everything (ac and lights still work, but no engine). It had died while idling, it has dies while cruising at 45mph. Then it will crank but no start. After about a 45min to an hour it will start like there was not issue, and pretty much drive the rest of the day (even after sitting) with no problem.
I installed the Adrenaline a few months ago, but the truck ran great for quite a while before this problem occurred. I did have it shipped with a rebuilt IPR. Tonight, I rebuilt the IPR with Guzzle's kit, and stripped it all the way down. Truck died again.
I have not had my AE hooked up when it died (stupid me today). But afterward I have been getting a few codes: P1283 (IPR Control Circuit) and P1212 (ICP lower than desired Engine crank or run).
When trying to start ICP duty cycle is about 64% and pressure is 185 to 190. If I unplug the ICP sensor pressure jumps to 2000ish, truck turns over faster and ICP Duty cycle goes to about 35%.
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I have a Tymar intake, magnaflow exhaust, a DP Tuner and I have Rosewood Diesel injectors.
I had a bad oil leak recently and it seemed to be coming from the turbo area so I changed all the o rings back there and deleted the EBPV system (I cut out the butterfly and welded the holes shut, cut the part of the pedestal that held the actuator because it looked like it was leaking and welded the oil holes in the pedestal that fed it. I left the actual EBPV sender in the pedestal and kept it connected to the harness)
After all that was done I checked the oil and it was low but still on the dipstick so I drove it to the local parts place to get some more oil, about 2 miles, because I wanted to check for leaks. It was not happy, ICP low code came up it was sputtering and jerking when stopped at a light. I got to the store and parked it, it took about 3 litres of oil and seemed to run pretty good after that.
But on the way home I noticed a bunch of white smoke, I figured maybe an injector was stuck. I started it a little later and no white smoke in the driveway so I thought maybe it had gotten lubed enough and had sorted itself out. That was a few days ago.
Today I started it and let it idle in the driveway for about 15 mins and no white smoke, I wanted to get it up to speed a little so I took it to do an errand that was about 10 miles away, lots of lights and a bit of highway. It would run fine while going at speed but as I would slow down for a light the ICP would go down to around 600psi and the white smoke would start, as sitting idling a huge cloud of white smoke would form (yes, I was that guy), once I could take off and get it running a bit harder it would go away again.
I am assuming that I have a stuck injector (or cracked), I have no oil in my degas bottle and it doesn't look like it is fuller than before. Seems like I may have used more fuel than I should have, but pretty hard to tell just from the fuel gauge.
I have tried a buzz test and they all sound the same, tried a Compression Contribution test, no codes from that.
How can I locate a stuck injector? If that's what it is?
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My 06 currently has 296k miles. 3 years ago I put a lot into her. Dummy plugs, stand pipes, STC, hg,studs, oil cooler, bpd egr cooler. Cleaned spool valves and fresh o rings in injectors. (Alliant) plus a lot more that I can't remember. Ran very very well after all that.
Fast forward to a few weeks ago. Driving down road and truck died as I let off pedal to slow down for turn onto my road. Took about 7-8 tries to get started back up. Icp was reading in the 300's until it finally started. Made it home. Shut it off. And started right back up.
Few days later truck died again same way. Let off to make a turn. Several attempts to restart icp was in the 300's again. Once it started building 420ish it sounded like it was firing a few injectors and slowly started running. The next time it happened the same way but when I got it back running I eased to my inlaws like less than a mile. When I got to their house and pulled in and went to back up to turn around the display on dash said low oil pressure and started missing a little. So once I got home started researching.
A few days ago I pulled out the low pressure oil regulator to check it out. It was clean but did have some mild scaring. I used some fine scotch rite and smooth it out a a little. It moved freely in the bore so I put it back together. Then pulled the oil filter cap off to check the little black valve. I noticed the filter was not dripping with oil like normally when I change the oil. And yes it's motor craft filter and cap. It checked out ok. Press it down and turned engine over and it filled and held. Let off of it and it drained.
Next I air checked the high pressure side. Applied air and waited until I could hear the air (IPR still open) then closed the IPR. Couldn't hear any leaks. Just a very very minor his and couldn't pin point where. So I went ahead and went to dealer and got new stand pipes and plugs. And ordered new print set for injectors. Pulled injectors and didn't see any smoking guns. Replaced prongs, stand pipe and dummy plugs and put it all back together. Cleaned the injector cups and hold down bolt holes. Torqued injectors to spec.
Got it all done and rotate motor by wire next to heater blower to assist prime system. Tried to start it up and it took two tries but fired right up and sounded smooth as hell. After it idled a few minutes I saw a haze from exhaust. It smelt just like fuel. A few minutes later started idle a little rough. Gave it some go pedel and it was rougher at about 1600-1800rpms and couldn't feel it above 2k. Got my laptop out with AE and done balance test. Did not show anything. No codes either.
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Early 99' model I picked up. Blew the oil cooler and had lot of pressure in the Degas bottle, so did head job and oil cooler and now I'm Still getting a P0264. Unplug #8 injector truck almost dies, plug it up and she smooths out...
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Just tried putting a ts6 on my pcm. First time I hooked it back up I just got cranking with no start. So I pulled the pcm terminals really well plugged it back in and got nothing. I do not remember because I was kind of in a hurry if I unplugged the batter cables and back on the second time. I plugged it back in after cleaning terminals and went to start and got nothing. A loud click on passenger wheel well and then all electric in truck completely dies. I hope I didn't fry my pcm. Maybe just blew a fuse or starter relay?
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I have a 2003 F250 4X4 crew cab 7.3. It was running great at 244,000 miles. The only problem was the HPOP was leaking, I had done the two upper O rings several thousand miles ago. Any ways after changing the HPOP while driving down the road it would miss at times or hiccup (funny it wasn't doing this before) Also it died a couple times, once at a stop light, had to get it towed home another time in stop and go traffic, this time it started with-in 10 min after trying several times. So I decided to change the IPR, still did the same thing. So I decided to change the CMP with negative results. I checked the ICP sensor it looked good no oil leaking or no saturation. So would it be safe to say I may have gotten a bad HPOP. Remember, I had no problems until I replaced the HPOP
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So for a while my truck sometimes and sometimes won't go into idle when I floor it and I've been trying to get the code and I finally got it it's tps high voltage so faulty tps??
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I just installed glow plugs, ucvh, stage 2 rosewood injectors, t500, ipr and gear head tunes. I have out 97 miles on the truck since all this was installed and the truck seems to run okay but has a rough idle and sounds like there is a mis? What should I look into first?
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I bought a 7.3 f250 with 300k mi. It had a battery light on but didn't show any signs of trouble. Eventually started dropping volts a few days later and I replaced the alternator. The light is still on and flickers in time with the idle of the truck and sometimes goes out when I'm on the gas pedal. Some nights when the lights are on the voltage drops ever so slowly until its drained. Why the new alternator didn't fix the problem? NAPA's scanner says the truck has 12.4V at idle and 12.1V at idle with the lights on. Batteries are relatively new and test fine, dual Interstate Mega-tron Plus batteries-top of the line.
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I have a little problem with my 1999 f250 7.3 power stroke diesel. Every once in awhile, while driving the truck would die completely but i switch it into neutral and started right up. What could be the problem?
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My truck runs very rough and lacks power when cold, even during the Texas summer. Once it warms-up, everything is fine. It's almost like turning on a light switch. If it's plugged in for a couple/few hours, it's smooth as soon as it starts. I'm assuming it likes the oil once it reaches a specific temperature. What my problem is?
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Changed CPS,EBPV sensor and tube,replaced IPR&fuel pressure regulator,batteries 100%,HPOP full,oil level full,fuel in bowl and lift pump runs(have not tested pressure but has good flow).After replacing IPR truck started quickly and idled for 15 minutes,decided to try a test drive ,truck stalled after reversing 10 ft as I shifted into first gear.Now no start!!Losing my mind.
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E99 zf6 180k. Ts 6 position and 6637. Just found d out the oil was 25000 miles old and changed it. 400 mile trip followed by a few days in town with no problems. Shut it off warm and it won't refire. Takes 3 loooong cranks. Few minutes later it restarts hard but not as hard. Head out for a few hundred mile trip and it's running fine except all of a sudden "bucks" a few times within a couple hour window. I took data during the trip and never saw anything strange. Today a cold start, around town driving, and warm restart were all normal.
My thoughts are to
1. Verify steady fuel pressure (I only have a temporary gauge setup)
2. Check the fuel filter for oil.
3. Pull the valve covers to look for injector oil leaks.
#3, though, I dunno if it's worth it. Perdels look fine and icp seems to be about the same as it always has.
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I started my truck this morning and drove it quarter of a mile down the road to get some food letting it idle while in the drive through. While pulling away from the drive through window it started idling ruff . I drove it to the hotel and it ran perfectly normal until at a stop light and it started skipping again. If I put it on high idle it really starts skipping. Above 1500rpm it stops. What do you think?
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