Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Transmission Leaking / Irregular Shifting
Jan 29, 2017
Anyway I have a 2001 F250 7.3l 4X4 supercrew 8 foot bed. Have an upgraded turbo, 4" exhaust from turbo back, k&n cold intake. Has 207,000 miles on it, 198k from first owner, the rest from me. Anyway the transmission is a automatic R4100 tranny. Since I have owned it it would shift from 3rd to 4th on slight grade. It would continue to shift up and down till I got back on flat again, rpm's would not vary to much depending on the grade. So that problem continues and now today I was towing a 14' trailer with 3 wheelers on it and I smelled smoke. Pulled over and it was pouring oil from the bellhousing. I had no choice but to drive back home about 20 miles. I first stopped and poured 2qts of ATF fluid in and then babied her home. What are my options here, what I should be looking for to fix?
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I let a small leak that I thought was engine oil go too long it appears before checking the transmission which had still been working ok. I added a whole quart of Lucas and then another quart of Mercon so the level was pretty low. What to do next as I am about to leave Alaska and go back down the highway. Is my ZF trashed now? Still seems to work fine. Or is there a seal somewhere that I can change?
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I recently purchased a used 2001 E350 with a 7.3L and the transmission is not shifting properly. It will go into Reverse no problem, put it in "D" and it starts in high gear and will not shift out. If I manually shift from 1 to 2 to "D" it works fine and will even go into OD. It will not down shift on its own either. What should I do to fix this issue?
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I purchased the truck over a year ago and never had a problem with the transmission. The only issue was a leaking transmission pan gasket so I changed it put the same fluid that came out back in it since it looked brand new and didnt smell burnt or anything. So fast forward time and my girlfriend was driving the truck over the winter and lost control of the truck and spun it around and hit the front end of the truck into a rock wall.I have a weston bar on the front end that took the majority of the hit.
Shortly after the transmission would start to run warmer than normal. It would be 20 degrees outside and my transmission temp sensor would be reading around 140. Now that the weather is getting warmer the transmission is heating up a lot more. I took it to a guy to have him look at it and thought maybe the cooler was clogged or something like that and possibly put a larger cooler on it. He called me up a few days later and said their was a larger cooler already on it but it was not hooked up. It is a black one mounted on the front of the radiator. He said he cut the lines off of the old one and there was a slight bend in the one line so he cut a little higher than that line and then hooked up the cooler.
He told me he blew in the lines and there was no restrictions in it, i guess no pressure when we blue on the lines. I drove it home and the temp went higher than ever before up to 220. The cooler on the front was ice cold and trans pan was hot.I am starting to think maybe the bypass is bad and the fluid isn't getting to the cooler. The fluid is still pink and does not smell burnt so I want to fix the problem before any issues arise. The truck has 137000 miles on it. I have attached pictures of the cooler that he said was already there but not hooked up.
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I have a 2003 Excursion with a 7.3 and 240,000 miles. I have oil leaking around the transmission and the local diesel shop found the pedestal leaking. I installed a new pedestal from Rotomaster Part # A1382205N. It came with new O-rings and turbo bolts. I ran the truck and it began leaking again. Thinking I had pinched an O-ring I pulled it apart again but found nothing. I cleaned and inspected everything and reinstalled. Its still leaking. I used a straight edge to ensure the sealing surfaces were straight.
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My transmission on my 2002 7.3 4x4 is pouring fluid from somewhere above the rear of the pan. I thought it was the pan at first. I pulled it off and replaced the filter. After adding fluid while it was running for 4 or 5 minutes it started pouring again. It's not the pan. It's coming from above the pan somewhere. It won't leak unless it's running. Is there a place it can leak on top??
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I bought a 2003 F250 7.3 Powerstroke from a buddy of mine with 99,500 miles. It is a former Michigan truck and has some significant rust issues. Oil pan and drivers door will need to be replaced in the not too distant future. And probably bed rails later too.
In any case, I noticed a puddle of tranny fluid on the driveway when I got home today. The passenger side line at the fitting into the bottom of the radiator has corroded through. The fitting into the radiator is pretty rusty, and the line fitting is darn near destroyed. The line itself actually has a hole in it.
I see the same part numbers on different sites with different descriptions. Driver side here, passenger side there, inlet here, outlet there. For the same number.
As near as I can tell, Dorman number 624-059 is the outlet line from the tranny to the passenger side radiator fitting, and should be the part I need. Correct? Dorman 624-058 seems to be the line from the OTA auxiliary cooler and back to the tranny. What I cant find is the line from driver side radiator to the OTA cooler. That fitting is corroded bad too, and I may as well do both of them.
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So I have a 2000 F-250 7.3 and my over drive won't work. I also had hard shifting from 3rd to 4th and 3 gear wouldn't try to shift until about 2500 RPMs which is high. I replaced solenoid pack and no change. I have rebuilt the tranny and found that OD snap ring had came off I put upgraded spiral ring on. When I went on a test drive I found out nothing had changed except shifted smoother. So I changed valve and accumulated body still no change. Truck is throwing 4 codes:
P0733 Gear 3 incorrect ratio
P0750 Shift Soleniod a fault
P0783 3-4 shift error
P0541 intake air heater a circuit low
Could it be PCM??
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I have run into a problem. My early '99 7.3 PSD decided to throw a very hard shift at me the other day, lit up the SES light and I had to limp it home going 5mph.
I looked on here and found most problems that caused power loss/engine die and replaced the ICP, IPR, EBP and tube, and the CPS. I also did an oil change after all of that to make sure everything was clean when I went to start it up.
BUT, when I tried starting it, nothing happened. It cranks, but does not start. What is the problem? I watched hours of videos and read hundreds of pages of instructions on how to replace everything, and now the truck won't start.
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Looking for a write-up on replacing the seals on the hose that leaks at the power steering pump? I replace them once but may of over tightened them. I pour in atf and see it dripping on drivers side of power steering pump. Can I just use regular o rings?
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I did the extended seal kit and non-serviceable plug on my HPOP and now the CEL is on. It is throwing the below codes. The truck in all reality runs fine and even a little better on a cold start than before resealing, just the CEL is on.
P1280
P1209
P1282
P1212
P1211
I cleaned the IPR when it was out when I put new seals on it but could it go bad by just taking it apart? The ICP and IPR are definitely plugged in. The truck is all stock, no chips.
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I have my 2002 Ford F450 7.3 diesel in the shop right now. Early story is it is leaking in the turbo or there is a problem with the turbo. Last summer I took the truck cross country and 500 miles from home I was gunning it to get on the highway and it started acting up (poor excelleration). And it started smoking and leaking oil. I crippled it home at lower speeds. Now that it's in the shop they told me about the turbo but have to keep it till tomorrow for a closer look. My question is what else should I consider since they have it in. I mean should they replace the turbo while their at it or any other parts that make sense since they are already into it?
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So just a couple hundred miles ago I changed the oil and oil filter in my 99 7.3 ... It wasn't till today I noticed an oil/coolant leak ... It is on the driver side of the engine by the oil cooler ... "It isn't the oil cooler leaking already checked"... It seems to be behind the water pump to the driver side of the hpop... Where the thermostat is it is like right behind that but I can't think of what it is .... Its not the oil pump leaking ... It is leaking down and being blown back across my oil pan and oil filter... That is the oil cooler it has residue but its not the problem
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Initially had indications of a leak under the wheel arch on the drivers side.
About 3-4 months back replaced both PS lines and the leak stopped - briefly (maybe a couple a weeks).
Now the leak is back, but what's interesting is I lose more ATF fluid on a single long haul run than I do running round town for 3 weeks. I can't work out where the leak is coming from to identify what else to replace - short of just buying a pump and reservoir and replacing them as I've already done the hoses.
My turbo cooler pipe was hard up against the old PS pipe where it entered the side of the reservoir until I did the replacement hoses. Now I have it out the way but I'm wondering if it's caused some unseen wear or damage.
If I just do the pump to see if that works are the reman units any good out of Autozone or O'reilly's?
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2002 F-250 tries to die when I shift from drive to reverse. Usually first 10-15 minutes after starting. After it has gone a few miles I haven't noticed it. Seems to be getting worse but just really started a few weeks ago. I don't drive it everyday so it has been a while.
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So my understanding is that if your turbo is leaking oil, you either need to rebuild it or get a new turbo cause the one you have is shot.
I have some oil leaking, but it's not a ton. One one of my buddies was telling me that it's possible that the amount that is leaking is normal due to the PCV (Pressure Control Valve) system, or something like that. Here are a few shots of the turbo, as well as the boots that are leading up to the turbo.
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I have a 7.3 and I think it's leaking oil out of the HPOP but I'm really not positive.
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Well my hpop is cracked and leaking alot I need to get home this sucks I must of tighted it too hard
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I have a 2000 f250 super duty extended cab with the 7.3 diesel and auto tranny which the tranny was rebuilt by Samco about 7 years ago and I have 337,000 miles on engine I had a oil leak from I believe my oil cooler which I fixed, but I am still losing oil, about a gallon or more every other day and in that time frame I am only driving maybe 30 miles. I have no drips, and I seriously don't believe it's burning because the truck is not smoking even when you rev the motor up. the bottom of the rear of motor is coated with oil plus as is part of tranny and some front of motor bottom. What to look for?
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I have a 99.5 with 400,000. on the engine. It has been a great truck but it is time for the some TLC. I have a little leak on the radiator and the water pump and would like to replace it. I am just looking for stock.
I have a 13 yr old that grew up sitting on my lap as we drove the dirt roads around the house and on the ranch. He has been driving this truck by himself (on the ranch) as soon as he was able to reach the pedals, around 8 or 9. His happiest day will be when he gets his drivers license and can drive the truck to school. So I have a lot of work ahead of me on this truck.
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I spoke with a few people here before about my 4r100.. it threw a code a month ago for P0750.. i replaced solenoid and it continued to do it even after clearing codes numerous times.. then all of a sudden it was perfectly fine for over a week, no codes, i ran a few brick hauls with it and ran it for over an hour straight.. i went to fl and upon return i took her for a drive and wouldnt you know, the code has returned.. i did hammer down a little but not from a dig, i just got on it a little playing with a neighbor and his truck and all of a sudden it did its thing slipping and not up shifting then the O/D started flashing again... i cant understand why the code would come back all of a sudden, there has to be a wiring problem correct?
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