Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Tranny Slowly Go In Drive
Aug 19, 2015
Tranny rebuilt, truck in sig, and beefed up 2 1/2 years and 30K miles ago. Recently started going into D after 10 to 20 seconds after putting it in gear, cold or hot. Very frustrating, especially when trying to maneuver a trailer.
Transmission builder has been running his shop for 20+ years, all makes and models, not Ford specific. I choose him because he runs a local business, has a good reputation, and happens to live less then 1/4 mile from me.
I have searched the forums, and read where Mark says this is loose valve body bolts, or forward drum going out. Builder can't grasp where it would be drum seal if it doesn't do it all the time, which it doesn't. He said it sounds more like something electrical, but there are no codes stored on pcm.
Builder also said he would pull tranny to check drum. Does this sound like I'm moving in the right direction? Or can it be something else?
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I have a 2002 7.3 e350 quigley 4x4 Sportsmobile with 312k miles. 2nd owner. Bought it with 295k miles 2 years ago. From what I gathered the tranny is original.
After reversing at a downhill angle, stopping, and shifting the lever to Drive, the tranny doesn't seem to put Drive in gear and depending on the angle of the slope, the van will roll back or barely creeps forward even with throttle. Put it in 1st gear, and the tranny engages that in gear and drives forward no issues, then I can shift to 2nd, then Drive and the tranny shifts fine after that.
No weird tranny noises or clunking. Noticed this issue about a month ago or about a couple thousand miles ago. Did tranny service (drain, filter, fill) at the ford dealership at 305k months ago.
I can only replicate this issue when Reversing on a down slope. On a flat surface van Reverses and engages Drive like normal.
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'00 PSD w/ 291k on the clock. Starts easily, runs good, only complaint is (what I consider to be) the soft shift of the tranny. Years ago, when I bought it, it came with a Super Chips Tuner. I've never max'd it out, just usually run on the performance tow. Is there any way to clean up the shifts and make them a bit quicker with less slip. When it's time to shift, dammit, I want it to "SHIFT", not slide into gear. I don't expect it to hit the gears like a manual valve bodied drag car tranny. But, there should be something to fix this without spending a bunch of $$$..
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I was driving my truck then all sudden truck started losing power then slowly died. I restarted it, it was a lil shacky then died again. Iunscrewed the fuel filter and looked in the housing and there was lil fuel in bowl i turned the key to on position and bowl did not fill with fuel looked as if it were shooting some bubbles up(air) could it be outta of fuel???
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So last year I pulled the motor and put a new pan on. Since then the oil has leaked from the rear lobe at the back of the pan. No oil leaks up top of engine. So I pulled the tranny and am going to put in a rear main. I also see a plate that bolts on the back of the motor and the bottom glues to the pan. I am concerned I did not glue the pan well enough in the lobe as only about 1.5 inches of the lobe has a small amount of grey rtv sticking out. How do I remove the aluminum mount on back of motor that the tranny bolts to? What seals the plate? Oring? Gasket?
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What's too big? I just put 33s on my super duty, is it "too much" for the transmission?
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I had to replace injector cups due to diesel in the coolant. Then I had to replace the degas bottle because it was swollen and looked like the michelen man. Then I had to replace the radiator cap (again) because I suspect that the diesel in the coolant had dissolved the seal in the radiator cap and it wouldn't hold pressure. Now I've got a bunch of new parts in there.
I parked yesterday, popped the hood -- and heard the radiator cap slowly blowing off pressure. It was the type of sound that you hear when a tire has a slow leak. I tightened the cap and the sound didn't stop. I REALLLY tightened the cap to the point where I felt as if any more tightening would cause the threads on the degas bottle to strip, and the noise lessened.
Unless I'm mistaken, a radiator cap is supposed to hold pressure to 16psi and then release all at one time, not slowly bleed off pressure with a hissing noise.
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I spoke with a few people here before about my 4r100.. it threw a code a month ago for P0750.. i replaced solenoid and it continued to do it even after clearing codes numerous times.. then all of a sudden it was perfectly fine for over a week, no codes, i ran a few brick hauls with it and ran it for over an hour straight.. i went to fl and upon return i took her for a drive and wouldnt you know, the code has returned.. i did hammer down a little but not from a dig, i just got on it a little playing with a neighbor and his truck and all of a sudden it did its thing slipping and not up shifting then the O/D started flashing again... i cant understand why the code would come back all of a sudden, there has to be a wiring problem correct?
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I just got my new up pipes put on as well as a 38R and pulling a hill hard my truck will hit about 22 psi then drop off slowly I have an electronic boost fooler wich has been on the truck since new pretty much but I don't get a CEL at all is this what I should be getting and I was on the 80hp tune? I ordered new boots and plenum inserts they just haven't got here yet. I know I had a leak before on my old up pipes because they rattled every now and then and I could see exhaust coming out of them when it was cold out but I could hit about the same 22 boost with my old setup. So pretty much nothing changed boost wise except it gets up to boost faster now. I would say it's defueling but I was always told the CEL would come on if that was the case.
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Sitting in stopped traffic for about 45 minutes and AC slowly starts blowing warmer air. Temp about 95 and very humid. Felt like AC just freezing up, but no frost on anything when I looked under hood. Hoping freon problem. About to start looking at it this morning.
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My tranny is acting odd. I put in drive and seems to slip a lot in 1st, barely even move at some times. If I put it in 1st with the shifter it goes in and grabs then I can shift up to 2nd or drive and there aren't problems. It drives normally when not from dead stop.
Transmission has 50k miles on it since replacement. Fluid level is normal. I don't tow and drive it particularly hard. I will have to go back and look at miles since last fluid change. I should be right around 30k miles since last change.
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What is the difference in drive/ fan belts with Cold Weather package and W/O cold weather package? As I have been trying to figure this out at the Irish part part it says for a single alt ....
Cold weather package the Outside Circumference (In): 121.900 and
Non cold weather Outside Circumference (In): 122.735 Inch
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So I went from a 3 inch to a 2 inch leveling kit. After tightening everything up the sway bar was a hair off. I pulled it out of the garage and got it lined up. Fast foreward the next day and went on a 200 mile trip hauling an empty goosneck and noticed it one time. The day following the the truck has went into this horrible sway through the tires back and forth that makes it undrivable. Looking at tie rod ends the one at the pitman arm is shot. I order the whole front steering kit from xrf and I'm going to replace. I know I also have some play in the box but I have for awhile. So what else would there be to look at? I need to get this fixed. I will update after the steering is put back together.
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I guess it would be classified as very intermittent but in the past year I have had 3 separate times when my truck has after a short drive suddenly had zero boost..
Pull over and turn it off for 30 sec or so and all is fine. Cycle the ignition faster than that and issue persisted. It has only happened in colder temps. In all the reading I have done on FTE I've not come across anything similar.
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Driving along today my trans started doing some weird stuff. It lost all gears. Forward and reverse. If I turned the truck off and let it sit a while it would go again for awhile then loose drive again. When I got home I checked fluid level and did KOEO o/d off and back on. I drove it around the block and it seemed ok, so I went on my way. After about 20 min I noticed the OD light flashing. I checked codes and It had P1754-ccs.
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I bought a 99 7.3 been in the trees for a few years pulled it home and now trying to get it running. Did a service new filters and oil fuel too. I can get it to start and will run but runs very rough and if you put it in drive cant pull its own self. I don't have a check eng light on. And found out my scanner is a pos lol. it will hooked up and then try to pull codes and loses it connection. But that's the scanner will not work on my other 7.3 as well.
I am making high pressure oil checked off the rail with gauge and it will build up to 2000 psi when I rev it. but missing like crazy. I swaped the pcm and idm out of my running 7.3 and it didn't change a thing. I have checked the pass though and they are fine. pulled drivers side valve cover off and no oil leaks when running and rockers are fine. new ipr valve as well too. I know I need to get a scanner to talk to this thing better.
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I got a 2000 f350 7.3. Cranks up fine runs fine put in reverse and can back up fine put it in drive and it bogs down and dies. What is causing that.
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I have a 2000 Excursion diesel 7.3. I drove it for an hour yesterday and it drove great. When I arrived home I left the truck running and put it in park. Checked the mailbox and jumped back in the truck and put it in drive and it would not move. Tried FWD and reverse. Moved a little in reverse.
I turned the truck off then cranked it back up put it in drive and it drove fine..... Took it for a test drive and seems fine.
Did the same thing today. Went to drop my kids off and I put it in park and left the engine running. Put it back into drive and it would not move.
Turned the vehicle off and back on. Put it in drive and it drove off fine.
Fluid is full, red and no burnt smell. Wondering if this is converter or electrical and how long I can drive it like this.
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I have 1996 Ford F-250 that I just put a axle in that came out of a 2003 Ford F-350 this week. I test drove it today and my locking hub fell out of the driver side. I looked for it but couldn't find it. I drove home and the ring fell off of the passenger side from driving it back but the hub hadn't fallen out yet. what can I do to keep the hubs from falling out
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What Spicer Part #s for the rear u-joints would be? I'm not nailing down the right one. I keep finding numerous ones, 1410, 1350, 5-160....
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Ok, the swap is all done and I have an engine in the truck that has compression in more than (7) cylinders.
2002, 7.3, 4wd - ~120k miles on trans. Fresh fluid (Mercon V).
Put the gear selector in reverse and it goes right into gear with the normal tug and functions as it should. Put it in low gear and it also appears to work fine. But, when selecting '2' or 'drive' it feels almost like its engaging 2 gears at once?? There is limited forward motion and it feels like the brakes are on. I have not driven further than the driveway yet, but I have a long driveway...
The OD light does not come on. I am not getting any codes from AE, but I really don't know how to use it for transmission stuff (I've been using a different scan tool that I no longer have).
We have not put the bed on the truck, so no tail lights - but 3rd brake light has new bulbs and was working (didn't check this AM though... )
I have a couple other codes, CEL, 'check gauges' and no tach. Gonna start another thread for those issues, I'll put a link here in case its related.
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