Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Torque Convertor Rattle After Transmission Rebuild
Mar 8, 2016
My '01 f350 up and running the last 5 years. The truck has 130,000 miles on it and the transmission quit on me two weeks ago. My mechanic pulled the tranny and sent it to a very reputable rebuilder for a complete rebuild. My mechanic then reinstalled the tranny. I picked up the truck and when I paid the bill my mechanic told me that the rebuilder provided a new 4-plate torque convertor and that I would hear it rattle when I was at stop signs, stop lights etc. and that this was normal for these types of torque convertors. I have searched this forum and found all kinds of reasons for this rattle. None of which tell me this noise is normal or should be expected. I have no problem going back to my mechanic and discussing flex plate cracks, engine/tranny misalignment or any of the other causes...
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My son bought a 1999 F250 Diesel about a year ago. The seller gave him receipts showing that the 4R100 had been rebuilt and a new T.C. installed 25k miles before the sale. The problem is that it is slipping. He says it started with 2nd gear, now it will hardly move in 1st.
Fluid smells a little burnt. We pulled the transmission pan expecting to find lots of friction material. It does not have as much as I thought it would, not as much as I have found in the the pans of the few other auto trans I have seen with worn out frictions. Below are pics of the inside of the pan.
Or, is it the T.C. that is slipping. I have never had a vehicle with a bad T.C. How do you diagnose it? I have experience rebuilding (GM) Turbo 400's and 4L60's. Never had a ford AT apart.
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Transmission rebuild? I seen a few threads where people talk of it but no follow up. I've heard it takes special tools but then so does a lot of things we shadetree on our own....
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1999 7.3/4r100 4wd with the rattling torque converter.
I bought this truck 10-11 years ago to use as a tow rig for my landscaping company. It has been a great problem free truck, I have done brakes a few times, a water pump, ball joints but no issues with motor/drivetrain.
I don't know the history of the trans before I purchased. Ford didn't have history of it being replaced and even now it still has all the labeling on the case. I would have thought it would have been washed off in a rebuild. Again I don't know. When I bought the truck it shifted nice and crisp, having owned trucks before it made me think it had been rebuilt but this was my first and only 4r100. Other trucks are ZF6 manuals.
Anyway 10 years and 100,000 miles later it still shifts very crisp and fluid, has been changed a couple times, is nice and cherry red. I added a 6.0 cooler, temp gauge and filter. Never see the temp rise and haven't seen much in the filter.
About 25,000 miles ago the TC started to rattle, a known 99 problem. I figured surely the trans would go and I would do a rebuilt from Ford. It keeps going though so being a work truck I have kept running it.
A couple weeks ago the starter just spun and wouldn't engage. I pulled the inspection cover and noticed some missing teeth on flex plate. Got it to start my turning crank bolt a bit to good teeth and the starter caught. Now we are carrying a breaker bar and socket. It has happened a few more times so I need to replace flex plate.
Question is, since I need to pull trans to replace flexplate, should I replace TC (I would like to get rid of the noise)? Some people have said I will be replacing trans in a couple months if I mess with it. They say just spend $3000 on a rebuilt now with a converter. Not trying to be cheap but hate to just dump this trans that is still working great and has served me well.
I have replaced many transmission and done clutches in many trucks so I am familiar with the steps of removal and installation, just stuck on what I should do.
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I am about to purchase a 2001 F450 7.3L with a 6 speed ZF6 that has a slightly worn 2nd gear synchronizer. I will be rebuilding this transmission with a friend and was wonder if there is any documentation available to assist with the overhaul.
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I bought a "rebuilt" 2wd AOD off craigslist for my bronco 2wd conversion that ended up needing re rebuilt due to wrong parts installed,since it was a bearing issue and worried about metal shavings I did not reuse the 2wd torque convertor and used the one from the 4x4 trans since I knew it worked. Are there any differences in a 2wd vs 4x4 convertors like stall speed to keep the motor running a little higher for off road performance.
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2002 7.3 rebuild and installed in the truck but won't start ... Everything is new other than hpop and injectors they came out of a perfectly running engine.
The truck is making enough oil pressure to fire the injectors the first couple cylinders then it quits kinda like a cold start with bad glow plugs. Fuel pump was working perfectly when the engine was taken out of the truck and is still building pressure enough to get some black smoke from the exhaust after cranking for about 15 seconds ...
The hpop reservoir full every time I check it and after cranking for about 15 seconds the oil gauge in the dash for the lpop jumps up to its normal place.
Injectors got new o-rings when they were taken out of the running engine. I'm not sure what else could be keeping the truck from starting.
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I have this 99f250 and it has a 273f, the transmission side of the case has threads stripped so I am about to remove and retap them. While its out should I consider rebuilding this thing? 197k miles, operates decently although the rear bearing on output side is my first thought to replace from mileage only.
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I was hearing a clicking noise on my passenger front wheel when rotating by hand.
Paul suggested I remove the ESOF hub and see if it is the wheel hub or the ESOF hub. It's the ESOF hub.
So I'd like to rebuild it for sure, it also has a nicked o-ring, so that accounts for part of the vacuum leak
I'd like to service the driver's side, too, while I'm at it. It doesn't exhibit any issues, so just regular maintenance stuff there.
Parts lists?
As always, I'll take pics in return
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Now that I have been driving for a while I kept seeing this light come on/off and I did a video below - I don't generally flash my lights so don't think I am aggressive - but I wanted to make sure to capture the video and the light coming on.
I was thinking valve cover connection the 50 cent mod - and maybe it's all coincidental - but I did have to pressure wash the troph where the oil collects and maybe something else got knocked loose.
[URL] .....
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My truck (02 7.3L cc) started making a grilled ding type of vibration when I would let if the throttle. I felt the axle going into the rear differential was a bit loose, so I took the cover plate off. The pictures below show where the pinion I think is hitting, sort of like the bearing is allowing front to Rear differential scaring from movement. Rear movement.
How difficult is a rebuild, and is there anything I should be careful of?
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What are the torque specs for tie rods for a 4x4.
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Thought I had these bookmarked but not. What is the torque value for the 13 mm bolt , replacing the tensioner.
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So my transmission drove perfectly fine I just wanted to put an upgraded torque converter in especially after driving a customers' truck with a low stall converter. I know their not like for racing or anything but it's a work Truck with some mods to the motor nothing crazy. So I went ahead and bought a low stall triple disk converter and I drove around the block fine and went to go on the freeway and got into fourth but lost it as I hit 75 (was not flooring by any means and had it in the stock tune) now it will not go past second gear. Once it did this the o/d off light started to flash and I decided to do a stall test.went to 1800 in a Second. Suppose to stall around 1200-1300.
2000 f250 7.3 powerstroke dp chip stage 1 camshaft and 180/100 injectors coming at some point but stock for now
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I will be changing all the glow plugs in a few days. Should I re-torque the head bolts or anything while I am in there? Don't want to button it back up and then wish I had done something while in there.
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I have a 2001 F350 with a PCM labeled "PMT2".
The SES light is triggered every time I try and pull fault codes using Torque Pro. It has done this since I installed Torque Pro many months ago. Same thing happens in another local member's (2000) truck, although I don't know his PCM version.
I'm very comfortable with the Torque Pro settings that have been detailed in other Torque Pro threads. I have been careful to choose conservative settings, including trying debug mode. I have uninstalled and reinstalled Torque Pro to see if that solves the problem - which it does not.
Question: "PMT2" PCM been able to pull fault codes using Torque Pro without tripping the SES light?
I realize another variable may be my OBD2 Bluetooth device. As an aside, I have removed the AIH and would expect to see a fault code but Torque Pro reports no fault codes.
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The SES light in my 2001 7.3 came on about a month ago while I was towing a light trailer in the SoCal mountains. When I got home I spent about 2 weeks replacing the injector o-rings and glow plugs. I discovered while I was in there that the head bolts on the driver's side where loose. I retorqued them to spec.
Both batteries were disconnected for the 2 weeks. When I started the truck the SES light was still on.
My Torque Pro app isn't showing any error codes, and is reading live data correctly. (I didn't have the app when the light first came on; I only purchased it after I finished the repairs). Am I missing something? Is the SES light not necessarily connected to fault codes? If so, wouldn't it reset after 2 weeks with the batteries disconnected?
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I have been reading here about alternate methods to torquing the hold down bolts for the injectors. This winter I replaced my old stock split shots with new alliant single shots. I installed the injectors into a cold engine and torqued the hold down bolts to 10 ft lbs. I did not ever go back and re-tighten.
Is it suggested to go in and re-tighten the injector hold down bolts to 10 ft-lbs after the engine has been heated up and cooled down? What are some symptoms of a loose injector? I am imagining premature wear on the injector cups, low compression and maybe some mixing of oil into the combustion chamber.
Did just throw the injectors in and go back later to retorque only to find they were all fine or were some loose?
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I'm working on a couple of repairs and have encountered a few questions:
1. Are the bolts supposed to come out of the top of the end link? Mine don't so I don't know if that's the way it is or mine are so far gone that they are frozen in the sleeve. My poly bushing kit does not have any new bolts so I'm hesitant to lay into it with a 10 ton press and ruin the bolts (I don't know how much they are from Ford to buy or if I can even buy them).
2. HPO rail plug. I'm removing my HPX as I'm tired of it leaking (hopefully when my HPOP comes back as a T500 I won't need it anyway). I've seen 33 ft-lbs and 96 ft-lbs. As I go towards the 96 ft-lbs it feels like I'm going to strip the threads out so I backed off and they are at 33 ft-lbs now (I don't need that headache and my wife would go through the roof). I got the ones from Riffraff as I misplaced the ones I took off 8 years ago (go figure). The HPO line connections to the head (or pump for the matter) are 19 ft-lbs. I use Loc-Tite on those but both have an o-ring (which provides most of the seal) so I'm not to keen on gronking the rail plug.
3. I'm also replacing both HPOP gaskets. I know that the HPOP and reservoir mounting bolts are 18 ft-lbs (from Ziggy. in the tech sticky) but is there a spec for the cover bolts too? I know the gasket provides the seal but I'd like to make sure that the force is distributed evenly across the gasket (Sous isn't the only OCD person around).
Hopefully this fixes most to all my oil leaks (still have to tackle the oil cooler). The valley is covered (as well as the front of the reservoir) and there is a lot of weepage on the paper towel test. There are years of buildup everywhere and will take a few tries and several cases of Simple Green to see the metal again.
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I read 18lbs for the water pump but it took a cheater bar (perhaps due to corrosion) to get the water pump lower elbow bolts off.
On reinstallation, what should the lower elbow bolts be torqued to? Checked the sticky (Ziggy's Torque Specs) but didn't see the specs for this item.
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I wanted to know what happens when the injector hold down bolts are not torqued down to spec, what problems would arise and could it be a reason for somewhat hard starting?
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