Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Ticking Noise Only Present At Low RPM While Driving
Jan 14, 2017
My old truck is still running, running pretty good actually. it has a "tick" though. it is only present at low rpm while driving. it reminds me of an exhaust leak or a lifter on a gas car. I looked under the truck where the exhaust stuff hooks up and didn't notice any soot evidence. it doesn't make the sound in neutral as bad.
I did the buzz test with forscan and they all passed none sounded weak. I did the CCT test and 3,8, and 5 failed. I am running the grey CPS and have read it can contribute to a fail on 3 and 8, don't know about 5. If it were a rod knocking, I am sure I could tell, that's a fairly distinct sound. I am wondering if the bearing on number 5 rod is getting bad? truck doesn't burn oil, only a dab of black smoke when I really spool. it will make the sound also on deceleration.
I plan on replacing the engine soon, but want to salvage the core so I can tear it apart and learn maybe build a go getter.
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So I have a ticking sound that has me puzzled. I thought it could be coming from the drivers side of the engine. This weekend, actually on Monday I decided to do the hot re-torque on the diver side. I warm up the engine for about 15min and have at it. I had put this off for weeks because it has been way too hot. Dam it was still too hot, I was sweating buckets. I had to stop several times to clear the sweat off my head my eyes my shades .I torqued everything to spec and nothing moved.
I went to 125 inch lbs and I got movement on the rear two injectors. I gave them about 1/2 a turn and stopped. I put everything back together, I used hair spray form the 99 ct store. It seemed OK. Fast forward to Tue. I needed to be sure so I went for the boost leak test. Here is my concern. I was going to test to about 30 PSIG, but I ended up at about 40 psig and I forgot to disconnect the MAP sensor! How likely is it that I damaged the sensor, and how can I tell? She is pretty stock and does not have a boost fooler to protect the sensor. Nothing popped and I did not leave the the HP on very long.
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I had a piece of an exhaust valve break off and as one knows, that requires an engine rebuild. I have a rebuilt engine with new upgrades to my previous upgrades; fluid dampener, chrome moly push tubes, billet flywheel, T-500 HPOP, new front cover, up pipes, Dieselsite ball bearing turbo, OEM rebuild kit, comp cam valve springs and all new valves. Had some issues with the Dieselsite turbo that was worked out. Now I have a cackling noise at idle and while driving. The noise momentarily goes away for about 2-3 seconds while accelerating, (actually gets very quiet) but the noise returns. It doesn't seem to effect my performance, just very loud. I performed a cylinder contribution test, (passed) and injector buzz test, (passed).
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I have a 45 min drive to work every day, all highway. Lately on the way home in the afternoon I have been experiencing a surging noise that seems to just happen while I'm doing hwy speeds. It sounds to me like the fan is tuning on and off. Is that possible? It comes on for a few min. And then off again. I have new icp ipr cps. New oil and filter and fuel filter.
Also I'm still having a battery light on and off issue while I'm driving. Is possible the two issues are connected. I plane on doing extensive search for a bad wire this weekend. Batteries and alternator have checked out and are fairly new.
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As it says, I have a tick. It's not apparent at idle and increases with engine speed.
Just spent $570 having bellowed up-pipes installed and while a little quieter, the tick is still there. What else tends to go out on these things? Manifold(s) cracked, manifold gasket(s)? It's seen high EGT's quite a bit but not for longer than 20-25 seconds.
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Back in January I had my right front wheel bearing and u-joint go out, so I replaced them both. At the time I didn't realize my outer stub axle shaft was wore so I just put it back in. After a little driving the right side started to "thump" and "pop" when I would make hard left turns driving around town.
I replaced the outer front stub axle shaft and seal again because the old one was worn down. This eliminated any play in the u-joint. After a bit of driving the thumping and popping noise came back.
I decided to dig into it today so I pulled it all apart. When everything is apart it turns easily, no issue at all. When I assembled the wheel bearing, torqued it to 55 ft/lbs and installed and "locked" the hub I noticed something peculiar. I can barely turn the whole assembly by hand. I have to put a good amount of force to get the whole assembly to turn at all. When I walk to the driver side with all the same parts there i can turn the wheel bearing and locked axle shaft with one finger on the studs.
I have been in this thing 5 times and can not figure out what the heck is wrong. I can't figure out why this stupid axle shaft and wheel bearing are so hard to turn, together or separately, and I can't figure out how to get my front end to stop that thumping and popping.
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Recently replaced the steering stabilizer with Rancho RS5415 and all 4 shocks with the adjustable Rancho 9000XL. The death wobble at 40-60 mph on rough roads has not gone away. The truck rides much better, however the death wobble is violent enough to shake the change out of the change holder and the only way to stop it is to pull over and slow to 10-15 mph. The steering wheel also has slight vibration when going over smaller bumps such as expansion joints.
2011 KR 6.7L 4x4
47k miles (no ESP)
20" wheels with stock size tires
100% stock no lift or modifications
Never wrecked & most driving is on the highway. The tires show no signs of abnormal wear and the truck drives straight.
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I have been getting about a 1-2 second power loss while driving. happened last friday when at a stop light, pressed the pedal and started to go then it dropped out for a second or two and then caught right back up. only cut out twice in 10 minutes then ran fine for another week. This friday oddly enough , it happened again while driving down the road. happened about 5 different times in 10 minutes, then back to normal. I replaced the passenger uvch with dorman, but not driver side a couple of months ago . Does this sound like the other uvch, or tps?
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I have a 2000 f350. Lost power whole driving and won't start back up. I have checked all my fuses and relays several times. Have no power to the fuel pump. Tried running a hot wire straight to the pump and still nothing.checked my emergency cur off switch and there is no power there. Also my WTS light isn't coming on now. Tried checking the heater bowl and no power there.
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My issue can be while driving with cruise on, or accelerating, the truck just losses power, then recovers. At idle, the rpm can, but not always, fluctuate.
There is no "misfire" when it happens, but it just falls on its face. I have NO diagnostic tools, and my injectors are not stock, so I am unable to unplug my DP.
My thoughts are to unplug the ICP and give that a shot? Meanwhile, I will put in a order for a elm327
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Well, I was headed out from work this morning, on my way to fill up as I was a bit below 1/4 tank.
Truck was running good, like normal, until after 5-6 minutes, when it started running rough and had no power. Worried, I pulled off the side of the road. As I did so, it died, and wouldn't start again.
I whipped out my phone, pulled up TorquePro, and ran a code check. Nada. Well, it sounds to me like it's not getting fuel possibly, so I figure the best way to check, is to drain the fuel filter bowl, and crank it some, and check the bowl. No fuel in bowl.
Wifey came to pick me up with the can of diesel I keep for starting my forge (had 3 gal maybe?). Poured it in the tank, cranked it, no start. Still nothing in the bowl.
I'm taking her to work now, so she won't be late, then I'm headed back with a full can of diesel.
If that full can still won't get it, should I keep shuttling diesel cans, or should 8 gal or so be enough to get it back to the fuel pickup level? And if it's not fuel level, what else should I start checking on the side of the road?
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I have had this happen twice now. Starts fine, idles fine, then either sitting or just driving a block or two it starts running very rough, no smoke that I remember seeing, and now no power. Barely makes it up a hill. The first time I thought is was related to the heavy rain the night before. I had the tow truck coming and decided to try it again, this was after a few hours sitting. Ran perfectly. The second time, no wetness/rain, pulled away from the house and in a block or two, same thing ... rough, no smoke, no power. Pulled back into driveway, turned off for a minute, restarted and ran fine. Ran perfect today. What is the best injector cleaner to use in the fuel?
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Been a while... Problem today while towing... I was in some hilly areas but nothing too .. I was pulling an unloaded trailer and experienced a significant loss of power and overheating. Engine started getting hot (almost to red) and then the transmission came up in temp. Made it to a rest area and all cooled down within 2 to 5 mins... but the strange thing about the power uphill is that it is happening at slow speeds as well... boost seems normal. Recently did the injector cups, so the thermostat is new (motorcraft), coolant is new, and put new o-rings on injectors.
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The last couple of days with the temps in the 50's, my 2000 F550 with a 7.3, will start normally and idle fine. When I try to drive it, I get less than a quarter mile and it just looses power and will die.
If I flutter the pedal, sometimes it will keep running, very poorly. And when it does this, it is putting out blue smoke. After it does this, it will run fine. Just like nothing is wrong.
What do I look for, or is this normal. I have had the truck since last October and this is the first time it has acted like this.
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I have a 99 F 250 7.3. It runs fine at idle even for a long time. When I drive around the block a couple of times it will start chugging and lose power and shut off. I have been mixing fryer oil with the diesel. I changed the fuel filter, oil change, crank sensor and fuel pump. I added 15 gallons of diesel and diesel treatment. Pulled fuel filter and bowel is full I'm not sure where to look next.
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I have a late 99 f350 psd with 94k miles. I have had it a little more than a year. It has been a great truck until last night. left my parents place drove up the road about 40 mph and truck just died. I tried to restart with no luck. I don't have a scanner to pull codes, but I immediately thought cps. I went to town and got one, replaced it and had no change. Still crank, no start. I thought maybe fuel so I drained the bowl and pulled the filter. I found the previous owner had torn the bottom oring on the filter when he installed it.
Part of the oring was laying on the bottom of the fuel bowl and part of it was still in the filter oring groove. I removed all the 2 chunks of oring and reassembled the filter and primed the bowl. Cranked the truck, still no start. I unplugged the icp sensor and after cranking a few seconds, the truck coughed. I tried starting again and it fired up. So I shut it off and plugged in the icp again and it restarted no problem. Is that an indicator the icp sensor is shot? Or is there another problem I need to dig into.
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Last week the engine in my truck was shutting off while driving. Happened to me 3 times over the course of two days. The first couple of times, the engine was dead for 3-5 seconds and then the engine would come alive and drive normally again. The third time was about a 10 second event...same result, engine refired on it's own and drove normally. I was in motion all three times so the engine restarts all occurred before I was able to bring the truck to a complete stop.
No check engine light...(I didn't pull any codes because I didn't have my laptop with me). So, I decided to try a new CPS. I had one in my glove box since 2003 so in it went. It replaced a black CPS that I purchased from Riffraff about 100k miles ago. The new CPS seems to have done the trick. I've driven about 500 miles since the swap and the symptom has not returned. I wonder how long this one will last. It's a Ford replacement part so maybe I'll get another 100k miles...
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i just bought my first diesel truck, a 7.3 of course. 2002 f350 4x4 crew cab, short bed. Any ways i drove it for like 2 weeks and left it at my uncles house so he can use to go to work. then 2 days later he calls me to tell me that the truck shut off while driving just like that. he tried turning it on a couple of times and it would just crank. he gave up and had it towed. I have been looking through all power strokes forums and found some solutions like changing the CPS or the IPR.
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So I have this intermittent problem of the truck shutting down on its own when in idle or idling along in drive I immediately put the truck in N, turn the key and she starts right up again.
Does not do it at speeds, just in idle. The "check gage" and "battery" light are the only dash lights on after a shut down.
Where do I start?
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I have a 99 7.3 with 40,000 on a rebuild,injectors I don't know they do pass a buzz test. What happens is when driving say at 30 mph and I am not needing to give it throttle but i don't back all the way off the peddle sort of at a neutral point my engine will sound rough and seems like its not hitting on all cylinders.it runs great when i give it fuel and idles fine its just the point in between it runs erratic.last year when chasing a no power problem. I did rebuild the ipr, new fuel filter, icp and harness,cps and what fixed it was new fuel pressure regulator (brass was gaulded and causing fuel pressure to crash). No mods other than a bullydog tuner that never goes past #2 setting. I do have a auto ingenuity scanner, what to look for or already know what my issue is.
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So I'm on my way out of town, when the truck just doesn't feel right. I proceed to make a u turn and pull off the high way. During the course of the u turn the truck shuts off. I pop the hood and notice the oil is everywhere from the fuel bowl back. Oil is also dripping off the passenger frame rail.
There is also a nice size puddle of oil pooled under the truck. I believe that I blew the high pressure oil line that feeds the injectors. I had to get towed back home. If it is the high pressure hose, how much does the stealership normally charge?
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