Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Ticking Noise Coming From Driver Side Of The Engine
Sep 5, 2017
So I have a ticking sound that has me puzzled. I thought it could be coming from the drivers side of the engine. This weekend, actually on Monday I decided to do the hot re-torque on the diver side. I warm up the engine for about 15min and have at it. I had put this off for weeks because it has been way too hot. Dam it was still too hot, I was sweating buckets. I had to stop several times to clear the sweat off my head my eyes my shades .I torqued everything to spec and nothing moved.
I went to 125 inch lbs and I got movement on the rear two injectors. I gave them about 1/2 a turn and stopped. I put everything back together, I used hair spray form the 99 ct store. It seemed OK. Fast forward to Tue. I needed to be sure so I went for the boost leak test. Here is my concern. I was going to test to about 30 PSIG, but I ended up at about 40 psig and I forgot to disconnect the MAP sensor! How likely is it that I damaged the sensor, and how can I tell? She is pretty stock and does not have a boost fooler to protect the sensor. Nothing popped and I did not leave the the HP on very long.
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I have a sensor on the top of the engine on the driver side that has oil coming out of it. I think it is called an IPC but I want to make sure before I go buy a new one. It sits right behind the power Steering pump. I am replacing the Power steering pump and hoses so I thought I would replace that as well. Also since there is oil in the connection what is the best way to clean the connection electric parts cleaner? By the way this is a 2000 7.3 4x4 ....
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My wife is talking to someone about purchasing a 1998 4.6 4x4 EB Expedition. The owner says the only issue is a tick coming from the driver's side head. He claims the shop told him it was "just a cam stator". Now, say what you will, but I've dabbled just enough with mod motors (2v and 3v, 4.6's and 5.4's) to feel like I'd rather stick to old pushrods. I've never heard of a "cam stator" on a 2v 4.6. I also realize that stator is a word that gets tossed around a bit by people who don't fully understand what it is.
Now, this is a relatively high mileage engine (something like 220k I think) so I know it could be a whole slew of things from cracked/leaking exhaust mani, lifters, timing chain, etc. But, in all my searching, "2v 4.6 cam stator" keeps leading me to people troubleshooting pushrod distributors, 3v VVT troubleshooting, and alternator related posts. Is this such a thing, what this shop may have been trying to refer to? He claims it's done it for about 5 years now, and runs perfectly fine. I'm leaning towards lifter, but the truck is 3 hours away so I haven't got to check it out yet....
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Tonight on my way home I noticed a slight creaking sound, coming from front driver side, opening the window it was more noticeable. So when I got home I have tried to locate the source, it is the same with or without the engine running & you can hear it by rocking the steering just a little left to right. It sounds like a dry bush, I had my good lady rocking the wheel while I climbed underneath but couldn't pinpoint it, so I climbed up on the fender with my weight on the radiator support & the battery cover, when she turned the wheel the sound was almost gone but as soon as I jumped off it was back! I then tried rocking the truck from the driver side fender & the sound is there but not quite so pronounced, Any other way before I spray everything with WD40 (don't know if you have that over there but it usually quietens things like this!) There is no play on anything anywhere & the truck has only around 32k miles.
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I'm having a problem trying to locate what I assume is an oil leak. It is on the driver side and the whole engine compartment is wet on the side up on firewall beneath the master cylinder. And the whole underneath is wet also axles and leaf spring and can't find where it's coming from. I have sprayed it down with degreaser to try to pin point the leak still no luck. Truck has 236k on it also new hpop and turbo pedestal and checked the valley and its dry. Right now I'm at a loss. I'm leaning towards oil cooler but would a leaking oil cooler cause whole side of engine compartment to be covered?
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Got home from work this morning and noticed when I pulled in the drive and opened the door a ticking noise coming from under truck. Finally had time this evening to crawl under truck and investigate noise. It's coming from the front of the transmission where it bolts up to engine. It's a pretty much steady tick and goes away for a few seconds here and there. when you increase RPM's it's still there and I think goes away at higher RPM's, it doesn't get louder as you increase RPM's just stays the same level. Will get it to shop Monday hopefully and get this checked out and NoX sensor changed out too.
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My old truck is still running, running pretty good actually. it has a "tick" though. it is only present at low rpm while driving. it reminds me of an exhaust leak or a lifter on a gas car. I looked under the truck where the exhaust stuff hooks up and didn't notice any soot evidence. it doesn't make the sound in neutral as bad.
I did the buzz test with forscan and they all passed none sounded weak. I did the CCT test and 3,8, and 5 failed. I am running the grey CPS and have read it can contribute to a fail on 3 and 8, don't know about 5. If it were a rod knocking, I am sure I could tell, that's a fairly distinct sound. I am wondering if the bearing on number 5 rod is getting bad? truck doesn't burn oil, only a dab of black smoke when I really spool. it will make the sound also on deceleration.
I plan on replacing the engine soon, but want to salvage the core so I can tear it apart and learn maybe build a go getter.
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As it says, I have a tick. It's not apparent at idle and increases with engine speed.
Just spent $570 having bellowed up-pipes installed and while a little quieter, the tick is still there. What else tends to go out on these things? Manifold(s) cracked, manifold gasket(s)? It's seen high EGT's quite a bit but not for longer than 20-25 seconds.
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I have developed a leak coming from the top, driver side, rear of my engine and I could not figure out where it was coming from. I took it to a reputable shop for diagnosis and they tell me that the rear leak is coming from the transmission lines.
The weird thing is I never thought the leak looked like ATF. They also told me that it looks like the stock radiator/cooler has been bypassed so I have no cooler.
Should I assume that the stock internal cooler failed and that is why the PO bypassed it? Also is there a decent write up on deleting these lines and running soft transmission lines to a aftermarket cooler?
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I purchased a brand new 2014 SFS 2.4L Luxury just a week ago. I have noticed rattling/ticking noise coming from the driver side door. If I press againt the door with my elbow, the noise stops.
And here is the weird thing, I can hear the noise in the morning when the car is cooled overnight (parked in underground garage). But it does not happen when the car has been parked under the sun for a long period of time (in 25C/77F). So basically, I hear it on my way to work and it disappears on my way home.
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Is there a different battery box or better battery holder for the driver side without all the air filter housing stuff. I had an AFE Big boost filter and when I modified the stock battery box it still had the bottom section of the air filter compartment well after about 4-5 years I was cleaning the filter today and there was a hole rubbed in the filter from moving around and the pre filter is getting holes wore through it. So I cut the air box part off so now the filter will sit on the fiberglass stuff on the fender well. I ordered a couple of the new Blue Donaldsons from RiffRaff to replace the Big Boost filter. The modified filter box looks kinda like a hack job because all I had was a cut off wheel and the plastic got hot and now I have melted buggers all over it. I thought I saw somethin a long time ago about a battery holder out of a van that was just the bottom plate but can't find it anywhere now.
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Initially had indications of a leak under the wheel arch on the drivers side.
About 3-4 months back replaced both PS lines and the leak stopped - briefly (maybe a couple a weeks).
Now the leak is back, but what's interesting is I lose more ATF fluid on a single long haul run than I do running round town for 3 weeks. I can't work out where the leak is coming from to identify what else to replace - short of just buying a pump and reservoir and replacing them as I've already done the hoses.
My turbo cooler pipe was hard up against the old PS pipe where it entered the side of the reservoir until I did the replacement hoses. Now I have it out the way but I'm wondering if it's caused some unseen wear or damage.
If I just do the pump to see if that works are the reman units any good out of Autozone or O'reilly's?
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Small oil leak looks like coming down by drivers side up pipe. I don't think it's the turbo o rings. Better not be. But could be I guess. Anyways. It runs down somewhere by the up pipe down onto transmission. I'm not loosing tremendous oil or anything.
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I have a '02 7.3 that has developed a severe oil leak in what seems to be a small line that runs from the drivers side head to the HPOP on the passengers side.
it seems to be leaking at the braket that secures it to the head on the drivers side.
what is this line called and where can i find one A.S.A.P?
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'99 F250 SuperDuty. Tumbler is recessed and the key slot is horizontal rather than vertical. I suspect the spring fingered clip has fallen off.
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It is still a drip, but is getting worse, for several weeks. May be power steering fluid. I have not found the source. I think it is after the truck has run and has fluids operating under pressure.
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I'm not sure if I've just gotten used to the sound of the car or what but lately, it seems like the engine is ticking pretty loudly. It runs perfectly and I didn't think much of it until my friend commented on it. Sounds like it is coming from the drivers side (mainly).
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I have a 2001 ram 1500 4x4. For the past 2 weeks, when I touch the brake pedal I can hearing a ticking noise coming from the front driverside wheel. The ticking frequency is speed dependent. I had the brakes replaced, and the shop could not find the ticking noise. The truck performs get and there are no braking problems other than the ticking sound, but now for the strange part...
My abs and brake light are now coming on. However, as soon as my abs and brake light come on, usually on the freeway around 65mph, the ticking noise from braking is gone. So with no abs and brake light, brand new brakes tick at the slightest touch of the brake pedal, with the ticking freq. equal to wheel revs.
With abs and brake light on, no ticking. Plus the shop said that I only have abs in the rear.
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After cleaning entire valley on my 2001 f350 with 7.3 I have found what appears to be a small leak under the hpop drivers near the IPR. HPOP lines are clean and dry. Possible for IPR to leak at 120k miles and what will need to be done to fix.
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My driver side back suicide door won't open. It is the top latch that is not disengaging. I think I heard something loose in that door over the past month. Am I going to have to take off the inside panel to fix it?
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I can't figure out the problem with my extended cab door. Driver's side doesn't open with either door handle.
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