Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Stripped Wire Harness Connector Bolt?
Apr 18, 2017
As part of my ongoing P1393 troubleshooting, I’ve found that I can’t get the main engine wire harness separated. The big connector by the driver’s side valve cover.
I’ve cranked and cranked in the correct direction, but the plug never separates. I tried a cordless impact wrench and it still doesn’t move. (Edit -- the bolt moves very freely, but it doesn't push out one side (e.g. like removing the PCM) I can't figure out how to separate the two sides.)
Any tips on how to get it separated? Can I cut off the bolt head to get it separated?
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I'm trying to find a part number for the wiring harness that sits on top of the motor and plugs into the valve cover gaskets. The previous owner replaced the pigtails but the wires were cut so far back that there is virtually nothing left coming out of the harness. What the actual harness looks like other than it has the 9 pin plug on it or whether both sides require an individual harness. What is the part number or picture of said harness. Just in case.... it's a 2001 7.3.
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I am currently doing my injectors. Just a quick question. I was trying to get the fuel rail drain plug out but it stripped, actually not on the driver side stripped. I know there is the drain plug on the back of the cylinder. If I drain that and turn the crank over by hand will that drain all the oil and fuel that has drained into the cylinder? I'm really not trying to bend a rod when I turn this thing over. It's A 2001 7.3
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I have a problem my slave cylinder went out on my f150 so my buddy and I decided we were going to fix the problem. But while I was in there I figured I would replace the clutch, pressure plate, bearing, rear seal, and obviously the cylinder. When I was putting the flywheel on the "first time" i must have stripped out 3 holes because of not having the flywheel properly aligned. So I tapped out the holes to clean up threads and when we finally aligned the flywheel on the crank to right position I went to go torque down all the bolts three of the bolts would just keep on spinning in the hole. Now keep in mind I replaced all the old bolts with brand new ones from the dealer. What can I do to fix this problem I need my truck back asap!!! Can I go to a longer bolt to hit good threads or what do I do? I'm worried about my motor going out of balance if I mess something up here!!!
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I have a 1997 f150 4x4 and i got some new shocks for it, but I got the top nut off but the bottom bolt is almost stripped, so I am gonna buy new bolts and remove the old ones, so my question is what size bolt do I need ? I am assuming grade 8 but what length and diameter? and whats the best to remove the old bolt if it completely strips ? grinder ? drill?
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My fathers truck had the tail lights go out the other night so we checked the fuse and the bulbs both good. Took it to ford and they found that a wire harness in the front left wheel well had rubbed through and needed replacement. I went and checked mine and yup it was rubbing through the wire just not all the way yet. Might want to take a look. It is at the top of the well near the coil spring. I will get the camera out tomorrow in the daylight and take a picture of the location.
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On the back of my truck I have two plugs to operate trailer lights/brakes etc but I only use one. The one I'm not using (pictured) I'd like to adapt for aux power in the trailer to operate some IP cameras. I need to know about the pin outs of this connector and what gauge wire to use between the trailer and truck. I plan on running the 12V and ground conductors from this plug through an adapter into the trailer.
In the trailer I'll have a 1000W inverter --> UPS --> TL-WR810N Router --> TL-SG1008P POE switch --> and 4 small ip cams.
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Looking for the wiring diagram with colors for which port should be what wire for the obd2 connector for my early 99 f-250. I actually think it is obd 1 on our trucks but you get the idea. My truck doesn't have power to the plug I guess. I have a guy plug in a scanner to take a look at everything but he said the plug wouldn't power up his scanner. Just trying to get this fixed. Another question, if I buy a AE does that require the truck to power up the software or does it get powered my the laptop?
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I need connector pinouts and wiring diagrams for a 200 7.3
Multifunction switch
Headlight and dimmer switch
Airbag
Ignition harness
Any other column connectors...
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I've a 2002 Ford F250 SD with the 5.4 v8. I noticed my truck is missing at aprox 50mph when the truck goes into OD and revving at aprox 1500 rpms. I Changed my spark plugs and cylinder no 6 was fouled. The coil was cracked where the sensor connects to the coil. I used some JB weld to try and repair the crack. My truck is still missing and vibrating at 1500rpms at 50mph. I wonder if I need to replace the cracked coil? my check engine light is not on, but that means nothing.
Also, cylinder no2, I was not able to remove the coil. The bolt is stripped. I just got this truck a few months ago and the previous owner or last person who worked on this truck left me with a stripped coil bolt. Anyway, how do I get this bolt out? I'm afraid to crack the plastic area the retainer bolt threads in to...which is also plastic. I"m not too fond of my ford, at least working on it.
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2016 F250, took out the seats to remove the console and install the jump seat and upon installation I stripped the bold housing for the front left corner of the drivers seat. Now it won't tighten up. Am i going to have to tap the hole and get a bigger bolt now?
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My dumb self cut my factory harness to install a radio and after hooking up said radio (which I know how to do) it popped a fuse. So to avoid any trouble I need to put another harness in but again with my stupidity I cut the wires too short. finding the correct harness
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So after hitting a pothole, it would seem like half the engine lost power, after some searching around, i found that i would most likely be the harness inside the valve cover that has lost connection.
Its the right side, so i would need to take of the turbo pipe, and probably something else to get to it.
Since i'm doing this job, what to check out along the way? I want my 7.3 to be as reliable as possible.
I will probably ask some questions along the way, it can be a challenge sometimes to own a car that not many mechanics are familiar with, but as i have read online, this should be a very straight forward fix.
Can the harness be upgraded so it doesn't happen again? Its an 02
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While engine was running. brake switch "recall harness" shorted to exhaust manifold blowing fuse 22. truck died instantly. found the short and replaced fuse. checked all fuses good but no start since. WTS indicator stays on. tried a new GPR and a new CPS.
Does IPR and brake switch (on master cylinder) share fuse 22? fuse 22 holds now (when wire was fused to exhaust manifold it blew as soon as key turned on). unplugged FBH no change. recall harness "beeps" good and wires do not appear burnt. also shuffled relays around in central junction box.
Could formerly access OBD2 port with superchips programmer but no access now. fearing the worst, but hoping maybe bad ipr sensor (or another sensor) could cause this. Is it likely or not that this short fried the PCM?
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I am going to add some led's to illuminate the steps getting into my truck at night. I plan on putting them directly under the door over the steps. Is there a wire under the door threshold I can tap into at each door? If so what color? If not, where to get the power from. I want them to turn on and off with the interior lights when doors are opened.
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So I was in the process of doing a turbo swap to the borg warner sxe366 and the freeze plug that plugs the old mechanical fuel pump in the valley had to be removed well needless to say, it as well as the safety bolt I had attached to it fell into the motor, seperatly. I'm already getting the motor ready to be pulled but what are the odds that they made it to the oil pan or if they didn't any way to make them fall out?
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Where I can get the head light to fog light wiring harness..it is almost as hard as finding the holly grail..... 2001 f350 7.3 .......
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I have what might be a big problem, the main harness on top of the drivers side valve cover I can't get undone, the bolt holding it together is stripped or the nut who knows? wondering if there is any way to take it apart otherwise.
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My 2000 f350 has wires that dont match anything I've seen. I need to mate this to an 08 harness so I need to be accurate. I have
(2) yellow. I know this is 12v constant
(2) green/purple I know this is 12v constant
(1) red/black
(2) solid red
(1) solid black
(1) gray/light blue
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I have an new to me 1999 4x4 F350 that I was giving a good once over today on the front end since it wanders a little bit. but anyways I didnt see a abs sensor wire on the front. the plugs are there behind the inner fender well and it looks like there is a plug when the sensor should go in the wheel bearing. was 2 wheel abs an option on these trucks? is there anything else this changes front end wise?
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So I received my International bellowed up pipes from Riffraff and I figure I will start soaking all of the bolts with some aerokroil before I get started on monday and I see the very last bolt head near the up pipe is gone. The bolt is there but the head is gone and you can definitely see soot buildup everywhere near it. I don't know if I should order a new manifold for the passenger side and new bolts, order a driver and passenger side manifold and new bolts, or just order one set of new bolts and try to get take the passenger side manifold off and replace the one broken bolt.
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