Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Starter Sometimes Spins Free 2 - 3 Tries Before Engaging
Mar 26, 2016
I just bought a 99 F350 to replace my 01 F250 5.4 and I'm pretty stoked. There are several problem (some i knew about, some were surprises) 1 of which is the starter. The guy I bought it off said that every 100 starts or so (more like every 4-5) the starter sounds like it free-wheels but you just wait for it to stop, turn the key again (sometimes twice) and it engages and starts (although it takes a few seconds of turning over before it fires up).
I have a buddy with the same truck and he has had to replace his starter many times and I read in an old log book from the original owner that he had replaced the starter every 25,000kms (15,000miles). I am not the kind of guy who likes to fix things to have them break again.
SO my question is, WHY do the starters on these trucks keep breaking? What is the weak link? Is it possible to re-build one with better parts at home?
Is the problem partially because my batteries are only 650CCA and 750CCA and it takes more to turn this beast over? Could it be a bendix issue?
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So I just bought a E99 f350 lariat. I wrecked the truck on the test drive and felt like the right this to do was to buy it. Finally have everything fixed and replaced on the truck and have run into other issues now.
While flushing the coolant system I started noticing that the starter was engaging randomly. After doing some research I found out it could be the GEM under the dash. Looked under the dash and I could here a sizzling sound and seen "smoke" /water vapor something coming off the GEM. And there is water coming through from the window/cab lights.
So. All the post I seen where from like 6 - 10 years ago. Where is the best place to buy a GEM? Will having the window replaced take care of the leaking issues on the window? What's the best after market cab lights? Cause I think they are leaking too.
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Is this the sign of a bad fan clutch? I can spin it by hand,and it goes round and round.Can I drive it like this until I replace it? I am only driving 30 miles round trip at night, not towing and outside temperature is usually about 100 degrees.
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So about a week ago I noticed that my 2006 6.0 with 240k miles smelled like antifreeze. I popped the hood and noticed my dega tank was empty. I added coolant to halfway between max and min. A couple days later discovered coolant had dropped to just below min fill. Went to start it this morning and the starter won't engage the flywheel. I hear the relay click and the starter is making a whirling noise. I figure I will try to manually crank it to check if it's the fly wheel. If it's not that I guess I will take the starter to get tested. And if that's not it.. I guess a mechanic.
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Odd question, but the a/c clutch has always engaged randomly even though the a/c is not on and even now when the heat is on. Is this normal?
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I have my vacuum system back up and working and using my vacuum pump I determined my lines are all good. They hold a vacuum fine, but my ESOF isn't engaging my hubs. I guess that leaves either the selector on the dash or the seal at the hubs.
If it is the selector, I should just be able to just disconnect the vacuum line at the selector and use my pump to engage my hubs. How much it is supposed to take to activate the hubs?
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Ok, the swap is all done and I have an engine in the truck that has compression in more than (7) cylinders.
2002, 7.3, 4wd - ~120k miles on trans. Fresh fluid (Mercon V).
Put the gear selector in reverse and it goes right into gear with the normal tug and functions as it should. Put it in low gear and it also appears to work fine. But, when selecting '2' or 'drive' it feels almost like its engaging 2 gears at once?? There is limited forward motion and it feels like the brakes are on. I have not driven further than the driveway yet, but I have a long driveway...
The OD light does not come on. I am not getting any codes from AE, but I really don't know how to use it for transmission stuff (I've been using a different scan tool that I no longer have).
We have not put the bed on the truck, so no tail lights - but 3rd brake light has new bulbs and was working (didn't check this AM though... )
I have a couple other codes, CEL, 'check gauges' and no tach. Gonna start another thread for those issues, I'll put a link here in case its related.
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I've got a 2001 4.6 F150, starter spins just fine, but it won't start. Checked all the basics, but it has no spark, and no pulses at the injectors. Is the PCM dead? Wore out the Haynes manual on this one....
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I had a problem with this issue a few months ago, was 45 minutes away from home, blew the fuse to the starter. Switched another one in, blew it too. Had it towed to a shop, they did some diagnostics, felt like it was a short in the starter, replaced it and all has been well (as far as that particular issue) until this morning. Got in it, turned the key it cranked for less than a second and stopped. I pull the fuse, sure enough, blown. Swap it with another, it blows.
I know I have a bare wire in the column, the OD light wire is chaffed, I fixed it before but it must be worn again because I can get it to light up depending on positioning of the shifter lever and as I recall, every time the fuse blows the steering wheel is cranked to the left.
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I just reinstalled my turbo and started the truck up to test it. After 15 seconds or so it shut down so I hopped out to take a look. I had about a gallon of oil coming down around the starter. All I did was reinstall the turbo (I had previously installed without the rear pipe hooked up). I can't see where the leak is coming from but this thing is not even remotely drive-able. My best guess is the pedestal somewhere?
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Edit, I have also noticed I have been getting low on coolant, but without any noticeable coolant leaks. My engine oil still looks clean, where could the oil be going? How do I fix it?
2003 Excursion 153,000 miles - stock injectors, gt38r with new pedestal, Adrenaline HPOP, double transmission cooler.
I've noticed after some heavy towing with my camper (8,300 lbs), I've been getting a new oil leak showing up on my garage floor. I crawled underneath this afternoon and found three large oil droplets on the starter. See picture. What could this be dripping from?
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Four months when you tried to start the vehicle sometimes you will hear the starter. Drive in gauge but not meet the flywheel. Sometimes it would take three or four tries to turn over the engine. Yesterday went out to start the engine turn the key nothing happen no noise nothing but all the lights were working OK..
The repair shop said it was not the starter but flywheel missing teeth. But they said the main thing wrong is a need of new battery terminals. They change them in the truck started fine last night Today when my wife try to start it then come home saying thing happen nothing no sound, no nothing. Am I dealing with a bad starter solenoid perhaps or a combination of a bad flywheel??
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Any pic or wiring diagram of the starter relay that is mounted to the fender. I'm trying to start the truck finally but it's just cranking and I think I might have mixed up the wiring. Is there supposed to be a constant hot at the glow plug relay when the ignition is off?
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Upon trying to start my 2003 f250, it keeps blowing the 15A "Transmission Range Sensor then to Starter Relay Coil" fuse. Initially the truck would still start if i did not use the aftermarket Viper keyless start. however, now it doesn't start at all and keeps blowing fuses. I contacted the guy that installed the alarm thinking it might be something on his end. He walked me through reconnecting the factory starter wires which would isolate the issue if it was something on his end. it's still blowing fuses. battery terminals are good and clean.
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Batteries charged, connection & cables checked. After turning ignition switch, gauges on dash jump around & starts clicking in fuse panel. Top left relay then clicking sound from beside steering column on right side next to trailer brake box. Been having electrical issues & something draining batteries...had absolutely no cold start this winter. No decent mechanics here other than to be ripped a new one @ local dealership.
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I replaced my starter with a new one from car quest yesterday, it was starting to turn the engine over slow. I checked the batteries, they were fine, so went for a new starter. After installing, the new starter turned fast and fine, started the truck ok, but I noticed a fast clicking sound from under the dash. Ran it home and tried to start it up this morning, turns over fast, the clicking sound is still coming from under the dash, but the engine won't fire. Just turns over. When it's turning over the check engine (and all the other dash) lights flash.
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My brother has a '99.5 with about 130k on it. It's extremely slow to startup even the the starter is spinning it over pretty quickly. I pulled my Edge CTS out of my truck to get some #'s off of his. At idle mine has about 700+ ICP, his has about 480. My IPR is about 14%, his is about 10%. The only other obvious things noticeable is that his oil pressure gauge takes 3+ solid seconds before it comes up. Once it's running, it's seems normal and ICP & IPR match mine under full acceleration. The only other thing that is odd, while cranking his volts drop to mid 10's but isn't turning over slow. Where to start?
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My truck was stolen over the weekend. Fortunately, it was recovered but they broke the key lock on the steering column and I'm having a hard time getting it started. I can turn the ignition all the way to the start position with my key or a screwdriver but the starter never engages. I'm sure I'm missing something simple but I can't seem to figure it out. Looking for instructions on how to get this started again?
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Yesterday my truck began to give me some problems starting. The engine turns over just a couple of times then it sounds like the starter disengages and winds up. it took multiple attempts but it finally fired up. Does this sound like the starter or could it possibly be the starter relay?
2002 F350 CCLB Lariat 7.3
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I have a 2001 f250 ext cab long bed 4x4 that I use as a feed pickup. I have had it for about a year now. one of the issues I have noticed since I bought it is the issue I am having with the flywheel/starter. Its very random like maybe I have a missing tooth or something on my fly wheel. but every so often when I would go to crank my truck over it would just make a little whirring sound and nothing happen ( like my starter gear isn't sliding out and engaging my fly wheel.
After looking through my inspection cover I noticed I had a little wear on the sides but no teeth to my knowledge broken or stripped off. I noticed my starter had one bold loose but other two perfectly tight. It was also covered in oil and dirt from my truck sweating horse power I decided to replace my starter and have my original ford starter rebuilt. I replaced it with a NEW oreillys starter. I noticed it cranked about 5 times as fast but again every 10-15 starts I am getting the same no start. any thing I am over looking?????
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Starting about 4 months ago, when starting my truck, the starter would miss; I would turn the key to start, then the starter spins and spools up very high and loud but not crank the engine. I have to turn the key off to make it stop and then try again. Usually the second or third time it will grab and turn the engine and start. It happens about once a week or once every 10 or 12 times I start my truck with all the other times being normal. Doesn't matter if it's a cold start or already warmed up. It's a 2012, 6.7L F250 with 52,000 miles. What is causing it and how it can be fixed.
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