Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Stalling Out Just Like The Key Is Turned Off About A Mile Down The Road
Jul 23, 2016
Early 99 7.3 manual 6 speed. 224,000 miles. Truck starts great and runs great at idle. Starts out in gear just fine and seems to have plenty of power. It will act just like the key is turned off about a mile down the road. Will restart after extended cranking or letting it sit for 15 minutes or so. P1249, P0340, and P1280 codes pop up. Had a professional shop work on it and they changed out the CPS and IPC with factory parts. When i picked it up it had an SES light on but was running fairly well. When I looked under the hood the IPC had been cracked on the plastic part. Replaced it with another new one and it ran fine for 3 days, even pulling loaded hay trailer. Now when driving it, it cuts out for a second or two. It does that every couple miles until it stalls out completely. Restarts after 15 minutes and runs fine. Same codes are showing up.
View 3 Replies
Advertisement
The last couple of days with the temps in the 50's, my 2000 F550 with a 7.3, will start normally and idle fine. When I try to drive it, I get less than a quarter mile and it just looses power and will die.
If I flutter the pedal, sometimes it will keep running, very poorly. And when it does this, it is putting out blue smoke. After it does this, it will run fine. Just like nothing is wrong.
What do I look for, or is this normal. I have had the truck since last October and this is the first time it has acted like this.
View 12 Replies
Here's what I'm dealing with. Took the truck on a 1500 mile trip with no issues. Got home and started it the next morning and it started right up. 1/2 mile from home it starts to run rough and wants to die. It does this for a few minutes and then perks back up and runs fine for however long the trip is. It will always re fire and have no issues. Every morning it's the same game as described above. Within 1/2 from home it's doing this. Seems to be fuel delivery related, but why would it start after sitting overnight, and then after its little fit, run without an issue?
No codes in computer.
View 7 Replies
I have a late '99. It's been weak all summer. Took it to the dealership. They put it on the computer and said the only problem was bad injectors. Specifically #8. I replaced them all. It's still weak and now is starting to surge going down the road. I have my suspicions but I'm not a mechanic.
View 14 Replies
Ok after rebuilding trans and being down a couple of weeks, I went on my 1st run since completing. Noticed when I started truck this morning it didn't turn over as fast as it was. 30 miles down the road Airbag Light comes on, and then volt meter dropped to 8 volts. Got stopped with truck still idling checked everything I had the tools to do so for. Decided to get back to my shop where I had tools, and 5 more miles and 55 mph truck just shuts off. Lost all power, truck would only click. Put my booster box on battery and gauges went back to normal but still wouldn't turn over but maybe once? Only place within a mile of my location was Walmart. Bought 2 new group 65 batteries, installed them and Shazam cranked right up no more problems. Short of the story bad batteries that checked Good with a load tester don't mean squat!
View 10 Replies
So the truck has been stalling out and dropping power randomly, symptoms pointed to needing the 50 cent mod, changed the cps for cheap insurance and peace of mind just in case it wasn't the uvch, no dice. So last night I yanked valve covers for the first time here's what I did while I was under there, check my work.
1st I ohmed out injectors thru the 42pin harness according to tuglys sig link. My meter would only go down to a 0.4 when testing the test leads just to each other
DS injector ohms
#2 3.5
#4 3.4
#6 3.6
#8 3.6
PS injector ohms
#1 3.6
#3 3.6
#5 3.5
#7 3.6
DS glow plug ohms
#2 prong to ground 2" away 0.9 ; white connecting wire back to gp relay 0.3
#4 0.9 wire to relay 0.5
#6 infinity ohms up thru highest meter setting, checked multiple times and different ground spots,(replacing tonight) wire to relay 0.5
#8 0.5 wire to relay 0.5
PS glow plug ohms
#1 1.0 ; white wire back to relay 0.6
#3 infinity multiple tests as well (replacing tonight) wire to relay 0.5
#5 0.9 wire to relay 0.6
#7 1.0 wire to relay 0.7
Next up, ebp sensor was reading 1.9 higher than map/baro koeo, gently cleaning sensor earlier didn't work. Installed new motorcraft, will check it with Torque pro koeo once the batteries are reconnected
Next I checked the uvch connections which felt good, darn it, maybe a smidge of movement from the DS, but nothing halfway disconnected or anything. Hmm. I ground down the quarters to the top of his head and installed.
Next I torqued down the 4 bolts per cylinder of the rocker arms at 20 ft/lbs, all were perfect and snug
Next up, injector torque. I've read on here below 50, or 80 in/lbs depending on different threads and opinions that I would need to replace o-rings.
So I set the in/lb click torque wrench at 50 in/# and tested the wrench's click on the higher torqued rocker bolts, then checked all the injectors, all were good
Reset for 80in/lbs, tested, then hit all injectors, #6 almost budged but clicked immediately before the handle moved
Reset for 100 in/lb, tested on larger bolt, 2 injectors took a 1/8 turn;
Reset for official spec of 120 in/lb , tested wrench, all injectors took 1/3 to 1 full turn
Reset for 130 in/lb (above official spec, but highly recommended on here by those way more knowledgeable than me on our engines) tested on a larger bolt, slowly and carefully gave all injectors almost an extra 1/2 turn to click; whew, finally a relaxed sphincter.
At this point I knew I needed to buy 2 glow plugs today, replace, then I'll check all glow plug torque at 14 ft/lb in one go, so I got everything ready for a hot torque after I do glow plugs tonight ("unloaded" the torque wrenches) and finally installed the RiffRaff AIH delete plug. My cell phone's alarm went off to get the kids ready for school, so hit the snooze and got everything put up. Now for a nap, then buy 2 Motorcraft GP and check back on here before going back at it tonight.
I also checked the turbo for play in all directions, was nicely solid and spun smooth, no wheel damage. Up pipes and well basically everything exhaust under hood had zero signs of soot/leaks with inspection mirror.
View 14 Replies
My "01 6 speed has started stalling after spooling down. Example, coming down a grade in a lower gear and then push the clutch in it will die. Where do I need to look? I've recently done injector o rings and normal service. No change at all. No other issues except a very touchy throttle. It's pretty disturbing to be pulling a heavy load, have to get in the brakes hard, push the clutch in and the engine dies. Not a good day.
View 9 Replies
This just started happening last week. When I put the truck into reverse, the engine lugs down and dies. It' as if the AT is fully engaging reverse gear with no clutching action. If give the truck a bit of pedal, I can put her in reverse and back up without issue. Going forward into Drive has no issues.
View 8 Replies
A little about my truck. E99 F-350 crew cab long bed dually 4x4 223K miles. 4.10 gears with LS in rear.
I bought the truck June 2016. I ended up wrecking the truck on the test drive. Thought it was a 4 way stop and pulled out in front of a lady and she ran into the passenger side tire. Only damage that was on the truck was a busted tire, and the fender smashed in. Some how missed the door and the bumper.
I replaced all the front end: u-joints, ball joints, steering linkage, brakes, rotors, calipers, and all the u-joints in both of the drive shafts, also changed the fluid in both axles.
I have started to notice a slight "vibration" "shimmy" while driving down the road. Mainly while in a curve or changing lanes; applying pressure to the steering wheel one or the other. Tires have been balanced, and rotated several different times now with no luck at all.
While backing up, I can feel something "popping" "clunking" especially while turning. Like backing out of a parking space.
Insert troubleshooting:
Jack truck up and put on jack stands.
- Pull and shake all tires. --No movement
- Put in drive and watch all the rear end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Put truck in 4wd, hard to engage, watch front end. --Nothing shaking or out of sync.
- Turn tires to full lock. --Drive line starts clanking and shaking and rear tires acting funny.
- Turn tires straight. --Problem goes away.
- Put truck back in 2wd. --No problems when turning wheel lock to lock.
- Drive to empty parking lot. --Mainly feel problem while backing up, really have to feel for it. Most people call me insane.
- Lock the front axle. --No difference.
- Put in 4wd. Drive straight --No difference.
- In 4wd while turning. --Truck wants to act like it is fully locked in the rear and will bind up and slip a tire. You really have to give it some fuel to make it even try to move, and its almost like the truck wants to fold in half on itself. Cant keep the steering wheel in one spot as it keeps "jumping" on me.
- Put in 2wd. --Acts the same way until the truck fully comes out of 4wd then smooths back out to where you have to really feel for it. 4wd light stays on forever, before going off later in life.
- Put in 4low. --Gears grind and will not engage.
Would this indicate that the transfer case is messing up on me? Why would the rear axle feel like it is locked when in 4wd?
View 2 Replies
I've had this 01 7.3 for a few months now. When I first purchased I dropped new battery's, couple glow plugs, and wire harness going to the Pass side valve cover. it has 150k on it and an Edge tunner.
My first problem was about 2 weeks ago, it was raining and i was making a turn at about 5mph And all power shut off. I put it into park cranked 3times started up and the tuner stayed off for about 3minutes. I ran to auto zone and picked up a cps (I've recently found that oem is the only way to go?)
I made a trip about 2hrs locked the CC in about 70mph and the boost was going well over 12psi. this seems crazy because i usually dont get it over 4psi. I drive it with a light foot. on my way home i was pulling a trailer about 8000lbs load driving about 5mph out of the lot it shut off again. Started right back up and made the trip home fine. With the exception of the erratic boost.
Yesterday it shut off at about 40mph and turned back on its own. I am not throwing out a lot smoke doesn't have problems starting, I did a once over on the wire harness's and nothings jumping out to me.
View 6 Replies
My 2000 F350 7.3 has been stalling out with the water in fuel sensor for the last to tanks of fuel. I thought I needed to buy a new Titan fuel tank, I pulled the tank and was surprised to see that my tank was not a metal tank, It's polyethylene, I bought the truck in California with 60,000 miles it has 180,000 miles now. It was sold new in Canada, I expected the tank to be metal with the the liner coming off.
The two fuel filters in the tank are just about plugged solid I'll be removing them and repiping the return line. When I repipe the return line do I put the duck bill on the end or just leave it open? Also I searched the web for hours looking for a stock size polyethylene tank with no luck. On the bottom of the tank I found The ford part #s. I'm going to siphon the fuel out of the tank today. and reinstall....
View 12 Replies
My 2,000 7.3 with 150K miles have been doing good until the last four weeks. It randomly stalled and once would not start when I got back to it after a 30 minutes lunch break. The stalling happened at unpredictable rpm. Sometimes it stalled at near 2000 while I was still in low gear, other time it stalled when I was cruising on street at 30 miles/hr. Twice it stalled while I was at stop light and at idle speed.
The CPS is new. I replaced the fuel filter and it quit stalling for about 100 miles, I was so happy thinking the problem was fixed but then it stalled again.
Each time it stalled it would take about one minute resting before I could successfully start it again. If I tried to start immediately it simply would not start.
Do you think perhaps it is the two filters in the fuel tank being the culprit? I doubt the filters were ever replaced. I looked around and found a Hutch mod where these two filters were removed. An in-line filter was installed on the frame between the tank and the fuel pump. I just cannot understand why Ford engineers place filters inside the tank, which requires either dropping the tank or removing the truck bed in order to change the darn filters.
View 14 Replies
A couple weeks ago my 01 7.3 with 265,xxx started ideling rough and stalling. I had driven in all day Sunday and the next day it started out of the blue! It would barely start idle rough and stall out no CEL. I have singed changed the icp, fuel filter and I have checked oil level. Also used fuel cleaner. Still had no luck. When I changed the icp sensor the check engine light came on and was no change I then got a ford oem camshaft sensor and my truck fired right up but still sounded like it had a little miss here and there drove it for a few weeks fine now back to the same thing it will start up and idle fine for 10 seconds then start the rough idle but won't stall out anymore just idle rough. I am stumped I can't get any codes to pull up and if oriellys uses there scan tool while the truck was running it would shut the truck off! I can't find any answers.
View 8 Replies
My speedometer was intermittent for a while, stalling, then moving, but never above the actual speed. Now I turn it on, but as soon as I move, it travels up to 38mph then stays there until I turn off the engine, then it hangs for 4/5 seconds, then drops to zero.
I replaced the VSS in the rear diff, and the one on the tranny. I checked all fuses. There are no other dummy lights or indications. Bad ground? I'm hoping I don't need a new gauge cluster.
View 5 Replies
I am currently cab swapping my 2001 F250 with a 2005 350, I have everything installed but when I turn the key theres nothing... Dead in the water pretty much. I have power running to inside fuse panel but when I turn key there is nothing? no dash lights or anything, what I am missing or where I should be looking?
View 9 Replies
7.3 2001 model starts ok at 32-35 F. Feels a bit sluggish / slow response on the road. Reach a hill after 3-4 miles. Engine temp then beginning to go above low level mark. 100 meters up the hill, going around 30 mph there is a sudden surge in the throttle although my pedal is steady. Going back a few minutes later, on flat ground at bottom of hill and with no accelerator pressure, the engine suddenly stalls. Starts fine again after I stop. The same history actually repeated on two separate days recdently on the same hill. CPS is recently replaced. Had some jerking before that, but not the behavior explained above. Current CPS is Delphi light grey. Recent fuel filter change and oil change as well
View 14 Replies
This is wife typing in middle of trip. Today we drove almost 300 miles down the road before it stuttered. We lost the tach but nothing else. No check engine lights. It has done it a few times since. Watching with Torque and don't see anything there. Have 100 miles to go and it's happening more frequently. Replaced CPS 4 weeks ago with a Ford grey. Running down road it's 95 day. Oil was checked to be good at 211, transmission 182, EGT 790, pulling enclosed 6x12 cargo trailer. What can I check?
View 14 Replies
I have a 2003 F250 4X4 crew cab 7.3. It was running great at 244,000 miles. The only problem was the HPOP was leaking, I had done the two upper O rings several thousand miles ago. Any ways after changing the HPOP while driving down the road it would miss at times or hiccup (funny it wasn't doing this before) Also it died a couple times, once at a stop light, had to get it towed home another time in stop and go traffic, this time it started with-in 10 min after trying several times. So I decided to change the IPR, still did the same thing. So I decided to change the CMP with negative results. I checked the ICP sensor it looked good no oil leaking or no saturation. So would it be safe to say I may have gotten a bad HPOP. Remember, I had no problems until I replaced the HPOP
View 14 Replies
I have been "fighting" a front tire cupping problem on my L99 F350 Dually 2wd since I have owned it.
I got LOTS of paperwork with it, one of which was a service ticket from the dealer where it was bought new (with VERY low miles on it) saying several passing motorists had informed them that the front tires were bouncing down the road.
I have read this service complaint several times and I now feel that has something to do with it. I bought the truck with 70k on it some 8 years ago-the PO had installed EXPENSIVE Michelin XPS Rib steering tires on it and they were already destroyed by cupping.
I replaced all 4 shocks, and all 6 tires, begged the folks to FIND something wrong/loose/worn out on the front suspension/steering and they found nothing, they aligned it. THAT set of Cooper Discoverer HT tires did exactly the same thing, except I spent a lot of $$ having the tires rotated.
Now I have a set of Firestone TransForce tires on it and its been to a HD truck shop where I begged them to rip into the front end and FIND something wrong-THEY DIDN'T. THEY installed camber bolts and aligned it, yep, you guessed it STILL CUPPING!!
So, now I'm thinking is it possible that the wrong coil springs were installed at the factory causing this bouncing that the original owner reported to the dealer? I have now destroyed 2 more tires and getting tired of it.
View 9 Replies
I have a 1999 7.3 super duty that won't crank when the key is turned. All lights work, power windows and mirrors work but after the WTS light goes out... Nothing...now I do have a slight leak in the roof and a little water does get in the cab. I opened my door the other day and it smelled like an electrical fire had occurred. I checked under the hood and the same smell, if not a little stronger. I pulled my fuse box and GEM tonight. Once I got away from the truck, I expected them to smell like the electrical fire smell, but they didn't. Now I did try cranking the engine over by jumping the starter relay before tearing the fuse panel out, and I got it to crank, but not strong at all. The batteries are good.
View 11 Replies
While pulling onto the highway and pulling pretty hard lost engine power all boost then engine truned off. Top of engine is covered in oil..... What happened?
View 11 Replies
