Using the hypertech speedometer calibration tool on trucks?
I'm running 37s and need to calibrate it. But I don't want to buy a performance chip with the calibration tool?
Rebuilding my 7.3 and I'm in need of the removal and install tool for the injector sleeves/cups for the 7.3 Powerstroke Diesel.
I'll pay all shipping charges and a small fee if required. I hate purchasing a tool I'll never need again, rather better not need.
I'm looking to add a ball joint press/remover to my toolbox. Which one? Do I need adapters?
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Although I usually make my own tools, it is getting cold here quickly and LOTS to do before winter. I have the front drivers side parts ready to go on, but a tool like this could be very useful ..
Would this work on our Excursions/Superduty? Do I need any other adapters? Is it heavy enough for a couple of vehicles? Not running a shop, but have E350, my Excursion, and now F550 to do. Hence the tool "need" ...
A few weeks ago i lost the speedometer and the abs light came on. 6 hours later when i got home I tried diagnosing it, but everything worked. Yesterday, the same thing. No speedo or odometer, abs light is on, and the OD off light is flashing. But the trans still works fine, going through all 5 gears and torque converter lockup. plus, pushing tho OD button turn OD off, hit it again and OD engages again. (the truck has a 5 speed allison trans in it) i put the scanner on it and got No response from module for the ABS module, the GEM/central timer, and Hybrid electronic cluster. There are no trouble codes, but it did show P0500 vehicle speed sensor A this afternoon on the way home, the speedometer and odometer came on and worked for .4 miles, then went out again. Where I should start?
View 9 RepliesI drove the truck to work. It was fine. I start it up at quitting time and let it idle for a minute. When I pulled out of the parking lot and the od light started blinking. After about 8 miles I stopped at a red light. When the light turn green and I drove off the speedometer is working again. The od light flashed for another mile or 2 then stopped.
View 3 RepliesThis morning my 02 decided to turn the ABS light on, and start bouncing the speedometer. plus, the OD light is flashing when stopped with foot on the brakes, but the trans is shifting fine. Nothing changed on the truck except almost 3 inches of rain fell last night. Will AE tell me if the VSS is going bad?
View 14 RepliesSpeedometer not working and O/D light blinks, I have a 450 and a 250, 99 and 2000. On 450 this is an intermiting problem. Stop truck turn ignition off, restart and it all works now. Just started on my 250 and stopping and turning ignition off cures the problems for a few seconds, after i get moving the speedometer doesnt work and then light starts blinking again O/D light. Where do I need to start?
View 7 RepliesMy speedometer was intermittent for a while, stalling, then moving, but never above the actual speed. Now I turn it on, but as soon as I move, it travels up to 38mph then stays there until I turn off the engine, then it hangs for 4/5 seconds, then drops to zero.
I replaced the VSS in the rear diff, and the one on the tranny. I checked all fuses. There are no other dummy lights or indications. Bad ground? I'm hoping I don't need a new gauge cluster.
2002 e350 7.3 diesel transmission... At 7 miles the speedo began bouncing and truck drops into second. Parked it 30 minutes, stated up no problem until 8 miles and the it started again. Have checked most of the electrical, changed speed sensor and transmission position sensor. Only error code 2-3 rd gear mismatch.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford f 250 turbo diesel 7.3lt V/8,is there a tool to undo the cap on the fuel filter as i have problems every time i service the truck.
View 5 RepliesI have taller tires on the truck. I knew the odometer would be reading incorrectly so I took it to my local ford dealer. They said the truck is to old to calibrate.
The truck has a manual shift five speed transmission. To fix the problem I thought about swapping the rear end gears.
Can you swap the output shaft speedo gear in the transmission tail shaft? How to calibrate? 1998 F150 ....
Last November I forgot to plug my truck in and it got down to 0, my girlfriend tried unsuccessfully to jump start it. When I got home I jumped it and got it running. I took it down to a heated shop to troubleshoot the glow plug circuit. I discovered it was not getting 12v to the glow plug relay. Also I started it and tried to back it up in the shop, when put in reverse it killed the engine, not lugged it down it was like you shut the switch off.
Also I discovered if you turn the lights on it kills the engine immediately. It will not crank with the lights on either. So far I have replaced the computer,ignition switch,batteries, and cam positioning sensor. Now comes the weird part!! I decided to get it running and pull the bulbs out of the back up lights I pulled the drivers bulb first then the passengers side bulb. When I pulled the passengers side bulb it killed the engine.
It is not my daily driver so it still sits in my shop. I have a hunch it's a ground issue but I've checked and cleaned up all the grounds I can find and it still has the problem.
Took a trip last week towing the toyhauler. 400 miles one way. 2008 F350 4x4 dually, bone stock, 35,000 miles. On the trip home, as soon as I left campground I started getting a message on the dash- Calibration complete. Would flash and disappear. Then it would flash it again and right after would say "Drive slowly in circle to calibrate". Did this off and on entire way home even after shutting truck off a couple times. I haven't had time to look in the manual yet, what it's for.
View 2 RepliesI am still failing to appropriately diagnose the problem(s) with my '03 Ford E-350 7.3L Powerstroke. This van has only 69,000 miles on it. A week or two back (just a few days back in work time) it suddenly went from running perfectly smooth, clean and wonderful to this:
- Zero power. Putting the van in gear and flooring the engine causes lots more smoke not nearly any rev of the engine and just a crawl forward.
- Lots of smoke out the back exhaust, whitish. I cannot discern wether it smells like diesel or oil (because I'm ignorant here), but the smell is very strong.
- After warming up and idling ~ 15 min I check under the coolant cap and see no signs of bubbling or disruption (from opening the cap in the coolant tank).
- After warming up there are no warning lights visible on the dash, and I don't have a computer to read codes (if there are any to read).
- I replaced the turbo up-pipes which had a visible leak previously. This did not hurt the symptoms, though no more visual leaks under the dog house.
- I thought maybe I put gasoline instead of diesel in the truck, not so.
- To do the above test I had to use the fuel pump to get gas out the tank to test. I hijacked the fuel pump output and turned the car on a few times to get gas out to a tank. The pump seemed to work just fine.
This was all very sudden which is perplexing, and, in use, the van was previously an ambulette and in my few miles with it (maybe 200-300 only) use was extremely light for such an engine/van, just driving around doing errands. I am not sure if this is relevant (no one has suggested so, yet) but before all this happened I uninstalled the rear HVAC that came with the van when I bought it. The AC lines were sealed under the hood. The coolant line was returned at the doghouse (you can see this at the beginning of the video).
At the moment the van has no power to go anywhere. I have not yet checked the CPS or IPC sensors, and understand this might be the next route in standard troubleshooting?
2003 Ford E 350 7.3L Trouble - YouTube....
I just bought a 1997 ford f-150 4x4 with 4.6 motor. the check engine light came on. My diagnostic tool reads code 401 (egr insufficient flow). I've replaced on the parts on the egr side of engine. light still on. could it be a leak in the vacuum lines. I don't see any wear.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 F250 6.0l. I have no speedo and the ABS light is on. It was intermittent at first. It would go on and off if I hit a bump or braked quickly, but now for the last month the light has been on constantly.
I have tried the following to no avail:
1. check the harness to the VSS (rear ABS senor on the pumpkin)
2. replaced the VSS on the rear
3. check the lines from the vss for resistance and open short (and short to ground)
4. checked the HS-can network (pins 14 and 6 in the DLC to the respective HS-can + and - on the module) both have less than 5 ohms (about 3 ohms found) and no short.
5. checked the resistance of the network itself across pin 4-16 and found 60 ohms.
6. ran scans with OBD fusion for ABS (no abs found)
7. ran scans with forscan with laptop, does not detect ABS unit neither new or old module. note the TBC and IC both throw codes about not detecting the ABS.
8. check HS-can on the PCM as well as VSS wire from abs to pcm, no shorts or resistance.
9. check the number 11 fuse, (good) checked ALL fuses, only bad fuse found was trailer light number 20 engine bay. issue was a wire at the tailer connector was t-taped and not sealed leading to a short to frame.
10. checked the connector to the ABS module for power on both constant power pins, for open ground on both grounds, and power on run, all with in spec.
I've been diagnosing this for the last week, I am running out of things I can think of to check.
I have a 2002 7.3L Screw 4x4. Will a 03/04 6.0L instrument cluster work in this truck? The 2 clusters appear identical. I put the 6.0 cluster in and the trans temp, and coolant temp gauge will not work. All the gauges sweep when it is powered on, but the coolant and trans temp lay flat, and the check gauge light is on. All other gauges and functions work. When I put my other cluster in, all gauges work fine. Is there a difference in the VSM, PCM, or the SCP communication?
View 6 RepliesI have a 03 F-350, 7.3L. There is a slow oil leak that only leaks after I've run the truck. In other words, it doesn't just sit and leak overnight. I'll park it after running, and the next morning I'll notice a small pool of oil, approximately 2" in diameter. The leak appears to be coming from the oil pan area. I degreased the entire oil pan area to get a better visual of where the leak is coming from. I can see oil trailing down the front of the oil pan and the rear of the oil pan. Does this sound like the gasket? Or, what else could it be? I'm praying its not as bad as I think and need to replace the gasket.
View 3 RepliesI need the transmission speed sensor for my truck and I am getting a confusing array of Motorcraft and Ford part numbers. I have Motorcraft numbers DY1251 (Turbine Shaft Speed Sensor Assembly) and DY1229 (Transmission Speed Sensor). Not sure what the difference is between the two.
I've been having a recurring problem where, when my speedometer starts wavering, the truck will sometimes jerk, like maybe it's trying to down shift or a stumble of some sort. I've replaced the VSS in the rear diff (with Motorcraft) which cleared up the worst of it, but this problem still persists.
I have a 2003 F250 7.3L. I put new injectors in my truck four months ago and all of a sudden, I have 2 cylinders not working correctly, making the truck to run really badly. I sent the 2 injectors from the bad cylinders back for warranty and they replaced both of the injectors but nothing was wrong. I put them in and the truck still runs badly. I have a new fuel filter, new ICP, new CPS and glow plug relay. I cannot drive the truck, it smokes white at idle. I can unplug each injector at a time and cyclinder 5 does not change how the truck runs
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 ford 7.3l powerstroke diesel. When I first noticed the problem I was towing a trailer going up a grade and got into the throttle almost to the floor and noticed a loss of power and the service engine soon light flashing extremely rapidly a few times and never came back on. I made it home, still lacking power but not running rough. I drove the truck to work the next day and the truck was running rougher and loosing power. It ran great through lower RPM's but seemed to trip as soon as you gave it over half throttle. eventually the truck wouldn't run right at all and lacked complete power. It idled rough as well. My mechanic threw the computer on it and it said injector pressure reading too high or too low.
I was told to replace the IPR on the HPOP and I did. (I also replaced the fuel filter and changed the oil). After replacing the IPR it ran great, had full power! then it began to slowly die like it did before until it sounded like it was running off 4 cylinders again. I pulled the ipr out, cleaned it and changed the oil again. It seemed to clear it up for an hour and ran great but then began ran rough again. I also replaced the CPS sensor. I feel like its not getting enough fuel or something, im just wondering if it could be the ICP or the lift pump. There is no check engine light at all. Its just got me stumped because cleaning the IPR clears everything up.... temporarily.